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Sheaffer Repair Tools


stephen_schachter

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This is a question about Sheaffer snorkel repair.

 

In Marshall and Oldfield's Pen Repair Second Edition, p. 107, there is a picture of a pair of "Bernard" pliers (jaws remain parallel). In the jaws, there is a groove, half a cylinder each side for the snorkel tube to fit into (along with a piece of emery paper to enhance grip). Anyone have an idea, from guess or measurement, of what size is the groove is?

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Smaller than the diameter of the snorkel tube. I'm away from the bench, but you can measure with a pair of calipers (you do have a pair, right?) (you should!) to get the diameter. They're pre-cut when you buy the pliers.

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Doesn’t Dale sell these?

 

Pentooling.com

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Buy what pliers? Can't find any for sale, unless I missed them at Pentooling. Is there a pair available elsewhere?

 

I can measure a snorkel tube, but I'm confused. The groove should be smaller than the tube? Won't the tube be crushed?

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You need to define "Smaller" slightly small then no, a lot small then yes.

 

I made my own out of a set of smooth jaw pliers, just ground a slot across both jaws using a cutting disk in a Dremel type tool. it grips the snorkel tube without distorting it.

 

I have seen a picture of a set of Parallel Jawed Pliers being used but never seen anything off the shelf with the grove pre cut so just assumed they were a custom job made from a stock set of smooth jawed parallel grip pliers.

 

Unless anyone knows a supplier of some thing suitable and would be kind enough to share with the rest of us.

 

Paul

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They look the same as the ones I linked to so assume yes they would do the job, for us over this side of the big pond

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Will someone help me with the geometry of this? I can't see how a groove smaller than the tube diameter, no matter by how much, would hold the tube without crushing it, especially since the pliers are hard steel and the tube is very thin.

 

I've measured a few snorkel tubes: they measure about .062" in diameter. Assuming this is correct, what should be the diameter of groove? Sorry to be so pedantic, but I'd like to get this right! Thanks all.

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The groove isn’t round. It is a 90 degree Vee.

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With the V, as long as when you close the jaws the upper serated jaw does not touch the tube no damage will be done, although in that situation the tube will not be gripped either, that is why in the OP it says some abrasive paper was used to aid the grip on the tube.

 

Some experiment would be need to endure enough grip and not too much grip was applied to the tube, remember if the pressure applied is equal tubes can be be quite strong, (think submarine hull) but if the pressure is uneven the tube will easily fail, (think submarine next to an exploding depth charge).

 

Remember as in skinning cats, there are often more ways than one to do the job.;)

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Honestly, I've just used a rubber jar opener and fingers. Does the trick.

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It's easy to pull the Snorkel tube from the plug. Heat the plug end of the tube for about 20 - 25 seconds with an embossing gun, or whatever you use to remove sections from barrels, and then grip the tube with a folded piece of 400 grit sandpaper and pull it out.You may have to wiggle it a little.

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With the V, as long as when you close the jaws the upper serated jaw does not touch the tube no damage will be done, although in that situation the tube will not be gripped either, that is why in the OP it says some abrasive paper was used to aid the grip on the tube.

 

Some experiment would be need to endure enough grip and not too much grip was applied to the tube, remember if the pressure applied is equal tubes can be be quite strong, (think submarine hull) but if the pressure is uneven the tube will easily fail, (think submarine next to an exploding depth charge).

 

Remember as in skinning cats, there are often more ways than one to do the job. ;)

Both jaws have the groove.

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All the ones I have seen onky have the groove in one jaw, and the one on the Pentooling site only show one groove but they also only show one jaw, so it's possible the other jaw does have a groove.

 

Just had a look in the book mentioned in the OP and the one shown not only has only one grove but it's not a V groove, it's got a round bottom groove.

 

I suppose it's possible that Sheaffer had them custom made for their service centres.

 

Although as said above, its not a very necessary tool for snorkel work as the tube will normally come out without to much of a fight, just a little heat is normally all that is needed.

 

Paul

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I could be remembering incorrectly, but I seem to recall having seen a snorkel tool that someone made from two flat pieces of wood, hinged together and with grooves on both faces.

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If you were careful, making one out of wood would work nicely. As for the pliers in the Marshall/Oldfield book, it really looks to me like there are semicircular grooves on both sides, but it's hard to see. For use, I think the pliers would be more useful putting the tube back in the plug and manipulating it up, down, and around.

 

Steve

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I have several, including what I am told is an original Sheaffer tool. They all have 90 degree v-grooves in both jaws. I also have smooth jaw versions and versions modified to pull nibs.

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I've made a wooden one that works a treat... I think it was Martin Ferguson that described it, so I don't claim any cleverness in it. It's not quite as elegant as parallel-jaw pliers, but it's also harder to accidentally over-press (since it's just one's own fingers providing compression) and it has the charm of being something any dummy (that's me!) can make with a drill, a saw, and a short length of wood:

 

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