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Cure For A Dry Nib?


BDarchitect

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I have several pens with what I would call dry nibs- they are relatively smooth on the page, but present what feels like dry resistance as I push/pull them across the paper (I am lefty) and leave a fairly thin line for a fine nib; definitely not wet writers. This is in contrast to a nib that presents a scratchy or rough feeling, which I think we generally refer to as feedback depending on how aggressive the scratchiness is (?). I have some gold nibs and a few other steel nibs, most notably on a couple of TWSBI pens, that are all both smooth and wet, so I know the difference.

These are all Fine steel nibs, one is on a Lamy Studio, one on a Kaweco AL Sport, and one on a new Diplomat Aero. All are using DeAtramentis Midnight Blue ink, which I don't have problems with in other pens. I have tried using some micromesh mylar on them, sparingly, and stopped when it seemed like the problem was only getting worse. I have a loupe so I don't believe I have introduced any baby's bottom to the nibs, which I understand can make them a dry writer, so I am wondering if anyone has a cure for this other than sending the nibs (which are relatively inexpensive, esp the Lamy) to a nibmeister to work on?

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I use DA Royal Blue as my wet ink....that replaced my Waterman Blue which was the first wet ink I bought. Not all DA inks are wet, some shade.

 

There are some 5 or so left handed styles, which being right handed I can not help you with.

 

Could it be a paper problem? What paper(s) do you use....what grammage/poundage?

Look for slicker paper, like Rhodia 80 or 80g.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Thanks Bo Bo- I am writing on 90g Clairfontaine paper in a Rhodia Webbie, so that isn't the problem. I am thinking the tines may be too tight together and may need to be gently separated a micro tad.

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There are thin brass shims one can buy that will widen the nib a tad....at Richard Binder's site or Goulet's(sp) Don't remember the exact width 1.0 and 2.0 'something' is what I got. A very long time ago.

If you know exactly what width, a local hardware store could have sheets and you could cut them out..................what you are going to do with the other 9/10's of the sheet I don't know.

 

If a classic nib, place your thumbnails on the shoulders and think about widening the slit.....the least bit of widening the better.

One can push at the shoulders back if you widened too much...is more iffy....which is why I said just think about it, pressure wise. Thinking 2-3 times would be better than going for visible movement once too much.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Thanks Bo Bo- I have a set of brass shims from Goulet that I can try, though I don't think they are thick enough to permanently spread the tines as they are just meant to clean out ink residue; the tine steel should have enough flex to spring back after the shim is removed. A couple of these nibs are small, so getting a grip to gently pull on them is as much a challenge as not pulling too hard! Fortunately, if I screw up the replacements aren't that expensive.

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""A couple of these nibs are small, so getting a grip to gently pull on them is as much a challenge as not pulling too hard!"""

 

I don't see it as a grip or gripping...nor pulling. """"Nudging"""" I expect when the nib springs back it will be 'almost' as tight as it was before ( why I say a couple times)....but I do pull, but only for a second....that is what I forgot to say. The thumbnails slide in just under the shoulder.....if it is a classic looking nib.....not a flat one with out a breather hole. Those I don't know about in I have few and they work. Never chased spade nibs...

 

I can see having one pen that writes dry.....but not a couple, unless one has a lot of pens. You are having bad luck.

You could look up what the wettest ink is. Perhaps the wettest Japanese ink, in they have a rep of being wet inks. Don't know what the wettest Noodler inks are either.

 

You could double up your brass shims to spread the tines. Let it sit for a moment...that should spread the tines and let them set.

 

There are things that can go wrong with a reverse baby bottom if one pulls the nib too wide.

You are right it is pulling....but I never thought of it as that. I thought of it as spreading and then real little. Just a little nudge.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I ran the shims through the nib slits and it made a marginal difference in ink flow, though the nibs still squeak across the page as I use them and the line weight is thinner than I would expect from a Fine.

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Try leaving the shims in the nib for a few minutes....just to see if that helps.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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You can also try laying the nib flat on a hard surface with the shoulders facing down and press gently right over the tips of the shoulders (usually right where the breather is) this will result in a wetter writer, but it isn't advisable for stubs as it rotates the tipping and can REALLY screw up a broad edge nib.

Edited by Honeybadgers

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just joining to keep track.

 

I too am left handed and many of my pens run very dry. Due to recent experimentation I believe this might be cause by my hold on the pens: Left handed under writer with a vertical hold on the pen to page. Many, many pens do not like being held like this. Some unusable as they just run too dry or the tines start to bite.

 

I am yet to buy brass sheets or try micromesh but they are both on my list of options so far.

 

What really kicked me recently was finding out those pens that do write well for me might be flukes. Nib grinding is fast becoming an interesting subject to me. What makes my pen usable or not?

 

So yeah, I am listening in on this one. Thanks

(these left handed problems need their own forum space folks, we are few and varied but finding this kind of information is tough)

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Fat blobby Pelikan pens....are made for folks that hold high.

 

As an underwrtiter you should be able to use the classic tripod.

The fountain pen should be behind the big index finger's knuckle at just after 45 degrees, a bit lower at the start of the web of the thumb, at 40 degrees or if you have a very heavy or long pen in the pit of the web of your thumb.......rested there the nib becomes light on a heavy pen.

The trick is to let the pen rest....not forcing it to be 45 degrees.........but it has to be behind the big knuckle.

 

Hold the pen as lightly as a baby featherless bird.

:angry: don't make baby bird paste.

 

I don't use the tripod, in I had the Death Grip with it.

I use 'forefinger up'. Takes three minutes to learn how to use it. Tripod can take months to get one's hand light.

Most of us coming in from ball points are heavy handed. I consider the forefinger up an automatic light grip.......my saying that irritated someone in I say it all the time.....and after changing over I no longer had a painful grip and could write for a long time with shaking my hand fatigue.

 

Help! How Do You Hold Your Fountain Pen?

 

Do spend some time with the tripod....which others can tell you about. But I find and a couple others a small minority do like the forefinger up way of grasping a fountain pen.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I had not read this before I wrote my review of the Wing Sun 3008 fine which is almost a wet writer.......and smooth as can be for a lefty underwriter. I too am interested in the micro-adjustments which can be made by lefty writers too make things easier for us.

 

I do not want to be negative and nay-saying, but I have found advice from right handers "almost" works and always ends up with the idea that no one solution works for lefties -- work one out yourself.

 

So, maybe we need to start a line on nibs, feeds and experiments for left underwriters. I think there are at least six of us in the Network list -- who are all faced with trial (mostly) and error (generally.)

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Thanks for the advice on the hold. I am aware of how I should hold it, even as a left hander (something like Mick L on YouTube) but when I change my hold the whole world tilts and I find it most unhelpful; suddenly all skill with using a pen is abandoned and one writes like a toddler holding a crayon.

 

I have already given grip much thought but decided in the end to stick with what I do otherwise I might as well train up as a right handed person... and i can't face that.

 

The trials and errors of lefties continue. But I have heard elsewhere about Pelikans being vertical writers. They are on my radar but I am yet to find one that appeals to me.

 

Back on topic: This whole prying/pulling/nudging the tines apart seems awfully risky to me. Even considering doing it on a cheap fountain pen seems... wrong. Is it really as simple as all the above suggested?

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