Who Is The World's Best Vacumatic Diagnosis And Repair Person?

[camd]

I have two Vacumatics that are beautiful, but despite having been restored and sent for repairs multiple times, still do not work. I have spent more than the pens are worth on repairs already, but they keep coming back no better than when I sent them away.

 

So, who is the world's best Vacumatic diagnosis and repair person? I'd like to sent the pen to someone who specializes in these pens, and any help would be appreciated.

[FarmBoy]

I have two Vacumatics that are beautiful, but despite having been restored and sent for repairs multiple times, still do not work. I have spent more than the pens are worth on repairs already, but they keep coming back no better than when I sent them away.

 

So, who is the world's best Vacumatic diagnosis and repair person? I'd like to sent the pen to someone who specializes in these pens, and any help would be appreciated.

Can you describe the problem that defies repair? Might help in directing your pens to a proper place for repair.

[Glenn-SC]

If the pens return un-repaired why are you paying for repairs?

[Freddy]

Very interestin'.....

Fred

[Ron Z]

We've checked our database, and it doesn't appear that we've done Vacumatic repairs for anyone in Victoria, BC. Have you contacted the pen mechanic to see if they will cover the problem under a warranty? Most well established pen mechanics offer up to a year, excluding the latex sacs or diaphragms.

 

Contact me back channel (email please) and we can talk about what your problems are. There are a number of problems that Vacumatics develop that can be tricky to solve. There are some repairs that I do that nobody else does.

[camd]

Contact me back channel (email please) and we can talk about what your problems are. There are a number of problems that Vacumatics develop that can be tricky to solve. There are some repairs that I do that nobody else does.

 

Thanks - I'll send you an email.

[camd]

If the pens return un-repaired why are you paying for repairs?

 

Because the repairers ask for payment before sending the pens back. When they don't work, I'm told that they worked before they were returned.

[camd]

Can you describe the problem that defies repair? Might help in directing your pens to a proper place for repair.

 

I've posted about these issues elsewhere on FPN, but basically:

 

Pen #1: The nib goes dry after a few words/lines of writing.

 

Pen #2: The reservoir doesn't fill.

 

Both pens were purchased restored and worked for some time, but since then, both have been "repaired" to fix these problems.

Edited March 19, 2019 by camd

[Glenn-SC]

 

Both pens were purchased restored and worked for some time, but since then, both have been "repaired" to fix these problems.

 

 

So, both pens worked and then these issues appeared.

What ink(s) were you using?

[nsalvut]

Having collected only Vacs for the last 3 years and repairing them for two, I'd say that most of time when this is occurring, it's either a dirty section/feed (from dried ink) or bad (for the Vacumatics) ink in general.

 

Best way to test this is clean the pen thoroughly and then take an ink sample, and add some distilled or filtered water to it. If the issue goes away or gets better, it's your ink. Many modern inks are great writing inks, well behaved on paper, but finicky in 80 year old pens. The reason why this works is that many modern inks come very pigmented and this makes it difficult to flow in pens that were designed with different ink recipes in mind.

 

If it's two pens that have been repaired several times, it's probably your ink. I actually had the same problem as you with two Vacs using modern Taccia black. As soon as I realized it was the ink, I watered it down and now I've yet to have either pen stop on me.

Edited March 20, 2019 by nsalvut

[Ron Z]

The comments about changing inks is valid. We have found for instance, often found that there are often flow issues with black Parker Quink. Flush the pen and use any other ink, and the pen writes just fine. Cleaning well, and changing inks is always a good place to start.

 

 

 

Because the repairers ask for payment before sending the pens back. When they don't work, I'm told that they worked before they were returned.

 

Payment before sending repaired pens back is standard procedure. I never send pens back without payment in full. OTOH, we also have a warranty. If you write to me and say that the pen isn't writing, we will work to resolve the problem. Even though I fill and test every pen before I send it back, we don't have time to do pages of writing. I might miss something, or something may have changed or other problems developed. In addition to making sure that client is taken care of, I like to see the pen again to figure out what's going on. Doing so can be instructive, and help to prevent problems with other pens.

[Glenn-SC]

Payment before sending repaired pens back is standard procedure. I never send pens back without payment in full.

 

 

That is not my experience. But ...

[Paul80]

The OP should just send it to Ron, if he can't fix it no one can, unless item or broken but an ink issue.

 

Interesting what you say about Parker Quink Black Ron, I wonder if you have a different formulation in North America as it's my go to ink for sorting out a pen with low flow issues, its used in all my Snorkels without issue.

 

Perhaps I am just being lucky but I wonder if they had to tweak it for entry to America.

 

Paul

[georges zaslavsky]

Ron Zorn is the best person recommanded for Vacumatic repair

[vicpen123]

The comments about changing inks is valid. We have found for instance, often found that there are often flow issues with black Parker Quink. Flush the pen and use any other ink, and the pen writes just fine. Cleaning well, and changing inks is always a good place to start.

 

I have used nothing but straight Parker Quink black for over 40 years in all makes and models of pens without ever experiencing a flow issue.

 

Can you please elaborate?

[Ron Z]

Richard Binder and I, and perhaps others, have encountered pend that simply will not write when filled with Quink black, no matter what we do. Put any other ink in the pen, and the pen writes just fine. I have had clients write describing a balky pen. I always ask what ink they use, and if they reply that they are using Quink black, I tell them to flush the pen again and try any other ink. They write back and tell me that the pen writes just fine with another ink.

 

That is not to say that this is always the problem, or that black Quink is a bad ink, just that a high percentage of cases where balky pens and the ink are factors, changing the ink took care of the problem.

[pajaro]

The comments about changing inks is valid. We have found for instance, often found that there are often flow issues with black Parker Quink. Flush the pen and use any other ink, and the pen writes just fine. Cleaning well, and changing inks is always a good place to start.

 

I have used nothing but straight Parker Quink black for over 40 years in all makes and models of pens without ever experiencing a flow issue.

 

Can you please elaborate?

 

I suppose there might be some point to this defense of Quink Black ink.

 

I have in the last few weeks had issues of pens starting to get dry and then not start using Quink Blue Black and Quink Black, and in Montblanc 144 medium, Parker Sonnet broad italic, Parker 51 medium italic, Lamy 2000 extra fine, Sheaffer Imperial fine and a few others. I have to flush the pen and then refill. Quink does work trouble free in Pelikans and Waterman Carenes, so far.

Edited April 12, 2019 by pajaro

[Sailor Kenshin]

I'm at the point where ai won't use Quink Black in lever-fillers any more. It works fine in my cartridge/converter pens, though.

 

But this has given me an idea: mixing Quink Black with Levenger Racen (which, while it flows well, feathers and bleeds horribly). I may just find it to be an excellent Frankenblack.

[georges zaslavsky]

Richard Binder and I, and perhaps others, have encountered pend that simply will not write when filled with Quink black, no matter what we do. Put any other ink in the pen, and the pen writes just fine. I have had clients write describing a balky pen. I always ask what ink they use, and if they reply that they are using Quink black, I tell them to flush the pen again and try any other ink. They write back and tell me that the pen writes just fine with another ink.

 

That is not to say that this is always the problem, or that black Quink is a bad ink, just that a high percentage of cases where balky pens and the ink are factors, changing the ink took care of the problem.

I had also bad issues with parker emerald green which had a bad tendancy to clog pens, I eliminated Parker inks from my range of inks I use and it is much better.