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Pelican 140,

pricing identification age value pelican 140 585 nib

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#81 mana

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Posted 14 March 2019 - 10:40

Oh yeah... one thing that I forgot, the 140 & 400 series pens also used polypropylene for the collar (for a time), those are way brittle and are usually found cracked. The collar made of that is clear/transparent in color.


Adopt, Don't Shop! Support Your Local Animal Shelters! - Let's make this world a better place together! Because... now is the only thing that is real...

"Indifference towards people and the reality in which they live is actually the one and only cardinal sin in design." - Dieter Rams
 

EDC: Post WWII green binde Pelikan 100N CI 14K B, post WWII black binde 100N 14K EEF, 400 Tortoise CI 14K BB. INKED: early 70s LAMY 2000 MK, Parker 51 Aerometric F & M, rOtring Art Pen 1.1 & 1.5 mm CI & Woodshed Pen Co. Red swirl 1.1 mm CI etc. Inks: Pelikan 4001 BB & Turquoise, vintage Parker Quink & Lamy Turquoise. Also, my own mixes. Desk pen: Black Pelikan 500NN with a 14K M-nib in a bakelite Pelikan pen holder.


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#82 Bo Bo Olson

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Posted 14 March 2019 - 13:54

I wouldn't worry a bit about any hint of old ink that got behind the piston...ghost ink....because tearing the pen apart to get at it wears the pen too much and you can end up damaging the pen for nothing.

 

(Yes, I've had pens that the piston was shot, or I had to Zombie, in they were old dried out cork....one soaks for a week not a day....as I found out. Eventually when one can afford it, one gets new boiled in mineral oil and bees wax cork put on.....or one does it one's self.

Those were pens with blind caps, and holding underwater and manipulating the piston eventually cleaned out both sides. I've never noticed that on Pelikans.)

 

IF, there is any dried mist of ink/humidity....like in some demonstrators............So What!!!!.........it don't matter. It don't get in the way.....The piston gasket blocks ink contamination.

 

If the pen has to be repaired, the gasket renewed, then and only then worry about Ghost Ink.

 

I wouldn't dream of tearing apart any vintage, semi-vintage or even modern Pelikan....800&1000 are made to unscrew...............in even there, there is no reason for it....but to be blunt being too early toilet trained.

Ghost Ink..................Whoopee!!!


German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany & https://www.peter-bo...cts/nib-systems,

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 


#83 OMASsimo

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Posted 14 March 2019 - 16:24

Ok I will soak it a bit, but how do I push the nib back in after its cleaned? I know I knocked the times out of alignment just a tad, and I didnt realize that modern a Pelikan had chevron nibs? I know my 140 is 50s 60s be the chevrons touch the nib slit, my 400 doesnt leading me to believe it may be 80s 90s? How do I know?

 

I do it similar to mana but I prefer to screw the collar in first. These collars can break very easily otherwise. The most important step is to position and to align the nib on the feed properly. Then I grab feed and nib with thumb and forefinger so that I can hold them together and insert into the collar. At first you don't have to push that hard or you might misalign the unit. Once it's halfway in, you could use a piece of synthetic or leather window cloth do get a better grip and push the unit in to it's proper seating. Applying gentle heat to the section might help but shouldn't be necessary.



#84 mana

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Posted 14 March 2019 - 20:31

I do it similar to mana but I prefer to screw the collar in first. These collars can break very easily otherwise. The most important step is to position and to align the nib on the feed properly. Then I grab feed and nib with thumb and forefinger so that I can hold them together and insert into the collar. At first you don't have to push that hard or you might misalign the unit. Once it's halfway in, you could use a piece of synthetic or leather window cloth do get a better grip and push the unit in to it's proper seating. Applying gentle heat to the section might help but shouldn't be necessary.

 

Good tips! :)


Adopt, Don't Shop! Support Your Local Animal Shelters! - Let's make this world a better place together! Because... now is the only thing that is real...

"Indifference towards people and the reality in which they live is actually the one and only cardinal sin in design." - Dieter Rams
 

EDC: Post WWII green binde Pelikan 100N CI 14K B, post WWII black binde 100N 14K EEF, 400 Tortoise CI 14K BB. INKED: early 70s LAMY 2000 MK, Parker 51 Aerometric F & M, rOtring Art Pen 1.1 & 1.5 mm CI & Woodshed Pen Co. Red swirl 1.1 mm CI etc. Inks: Pelikan 4001 BB & Turquoise, vintage Parker Quink & Lamy Turquoise. Also, my own mixes. Desk pen: Black Pelikan 500NN with a 14K M-nib in a bakelite Pelikan pen holder.


#85 OMASsimo

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Posted 14 March 2019 - 22:19

Thanks mana, so are yours. :) I have restored many vintage pens of various brands. My most important principle is "safety first" and I paid my dues like many others here.



#86 Glenn-SC

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Posted 16 March 2019 - 23:05

Remembered that I own two 140s!
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