Deoxidizer Of Mark Hoover

[fountainpen51]

Here the last rejuvenation with this product, I think it is an optimal result, without any type of abrasive. The inscriptions follow of equal size of depth, at least, at first sight.

[Mr.Rene]

[Bo Bo Olson]

I have an olive ended BHR...chased if I remember, Mercedes piston pen....late '30's....that could use a bit of that.

What's the bit cost?

[Marcwithac]

Here the last rejuvenation with this product, I think it is an optimal result, without any type of abrasive. The inscriptions follow of equal size of depth, at least, at first sight.

 

 

 

Nice job. I'm curious whether you disassembled the pen (i.e. removed the internal spiral and nib assembly) before soaking.

[fountainpen51]

I have an olive ended BHR...chased if I remember, Mercedes piston pen....late '30's....that could use a bit of that.

What's the bit cost?

you can see on their website https://www.lbepen.com/apps/webstore/products/category/1172755, all their restoration products, it is amazing that you can put the original color back without polishing, keeping intact the inscriptions. I bought the complete kit (deoxidizer, polished fine and extra-fine, balms) for about 60 dollars (about 50e I think). It is certainly worth every coin.

In his web it explains the way to use them, and I, experimenting, I have obtained a better plus of brightness strengthening with paper of kitchen vigorously, after the passage of the rubbed one. Also avoid using alcogol to remove the remains of the deoxidizer (it's a test I did, Mark does not talk about using alcohol at any time), this will lose shine.

I have already used it in several pens, including Watermans ripples color Rose, Blue, Red.

[fountainpen51]

Nice job. I'm curious whether you disassembled the pen (i.e. removed the internal spiral and nib assembly) before soaking.

Just in this model, I put it as such, for not disarming the spiral. The part that covers the lid does not have oxidation, so preserves the original color. So I considered that it was not necessary to disarm, in others I thought I did if I did, although I think that seeing these results, I will discard the disarm, (as long as the part of the barrel covered by the lid is not rusted), Sometimes the deoxidizer liquid costs a bit to clean inside the pen, it is recommended to fill the pen with rags to avoid that.

Here two other Safetys, same process, but these did not take the photo of "before", but imagine how they stayed after having to soak them in water to be able to clean the inside well by the dry ink of how many years ... they were completely oxidized color orange, and this liquid made its rejuvenating effect. His old owners polished it, since the inscriptions were minimal, but after the rejuvenation they remain, minimal, but they remain.

[Bo Bo Olson]

For one pen it's a bit much, but if I was to have any of those 20's ripple flat tops like the above picture, I'd change my mind.

My two 52's have good color...not as perfect as you show, but still 'good'.

[Marcwithac]

For one pen it's a bit much, but if I was to have any of those 20's ripple flat tops like the above picture, I'd change my mind.

My two 52's have good color...not as perfect as you show, but still 'good'.

On his website, Mark recommends using the product on multiple pens at once.

[fountainpen51]

For one pen it's a bit much, but if I was to have any of those 20's ripple flat tops like the above picture, I'd change my mind.

My two 52's have good color...not as perfect as you show, but still 'good'.

You can always buy only the small, cheaper deoxidizer, the polishers are not necessary if you already have one or do not mind the microrallones (if you have one), the balm is to prolong the life of the rejuvenation, protecting from moisture and UV (I think this does not mean that you can put the ebonite 4 hours in the sun every day and that it does not rust), but from what I have seen in some of its samples, feathers in which the balsam was used, and others in those that did not, after several years, those of balsam were still black, the others no longer so much. Everything is to preserve the good state.

[fountainpen51]

On his website, Mark recommends using the product on multiple pens at once.

true, but this is not necessary. This product is not to be used and disposed of. It has a limited lifespan to many pens.

I have launched the deoxidizer in a hermetically sealed kitchen plastic container, about the size of a pen, as wide as at least 6 pen, and as tall as 6 other pens lying down.

The first time I used it I put a lot of them together, so the proportion of the liquid increases and covers more surface.

The last time I only put these three Safety pens, there is no problem in putting a single pen. And if you do not use it again for a long time, as long as it is tightly closed, you will have it available for a new use. (I do not know if for many years, there will always be some new rusted pen that will rejuvenate).

I suspect that the liquid is diminishing due to the fact that when the pen is removed, something remains impregnated, so that it will pass to the cloth after rubbing, so that liquid is no longer usable.

Also the liquid will change color with the use step.

If you like to have the pens in an original state, do not hesitate, I'm surprised with the result, that's why I've shared it here.

[Ben19]

Very nice! how does this product work? how do you apply the product on the pen?

[PaulS]

I've used Mark's product on some oxidized BHR jobs - not tried it on red ripple/woodgrain decoration - for some reason I'm not aware of, my red ripple pens don't appear to oxidize.

No idea what the component chemicals of the product are, but Mark makes the comment that his gunge is non-toxic.

My opinion is that the one and only down side is that this is a mucky job - you need acres of rag, plus Marigolds and good clear large area to work in.

For shipping outside the States, the postage costs hike the price to an irritating level, so probably best to buy the larger quantity to maximize the benefit against shipping costs, and I also didn't bother with the polish but bought the balm which does seem help to maintain black colour after treatment.

Initially, oxidation is removed to a noticeable degree, but there tends to be a falling off as the process is repeated, and depending on the level of oxidation it can take a day or two to go through a sufficient cycle to bring the pen back to its original colour.

Without knowledge of exactly how this works, it might be assumed that the product is 'eating/dissolving/melting the oxidized Vulcanite, but that's more of a guess.

Results can be unpredictable insofar as different pens that appear equally oxidized can take varying times to clean - apparently different pen manufacturers - in the '20s and '30s - used a slightly different formulae for their BHR.

 

The suggestion of containing the chemical, plus pens, in a sealed containing is a good idea - I put mine in an open topped glass dish - perhaps not the best idea. A paint brush is adequate with which to smear/cover the pens in the product, and though it's easier if clips are removed, metalwork appears unharmed after immersion. Cap and barrel orifices should be blocked with cotton wool balls.

 

Previously I'd used very fine grades of w. & d. to remove oxidation, but it's smelly, messy, and the obvious down side is that abrasion removes imprints etc., which Mark's product doesn't.

Two things to mention ..................... Some people are concerned about the long term effects on the pens, though this may be an unnecessary worry - come back in twenty years and we'll discuss again …………. the other point that I've read is one of allowing a pen to remain how the passing of time has affected it - the patina. There are people, and I'm sometimes one myself, who do not wish to remove the 'patina' (nice girl:-)) of an object - i.e. the effects caused by the passing of time and years of use. I can go with this thought occasionally if the pen is of some particular rarity or unique perhaps, but for the majority of commonplace pens it achieves nothing to maintain an ugly brown coat.

This is an area open to some opinion perhaps, and you need to be keen to have a go - and there's maybe some disagreement as to whether the product brings a pen back to exactly how it looked the day it left the factory - but if you are a collector, and you have some brown pens that shouldn't be brown, then Mark's product is definitely worth a try.

Edited May 23, 2019 by PaulS

[Ben19]

Thank you for your detailed answer. About the patina issue, to be honest I love it, something that it took so many years to appear it is a shame to take it off in five minutes, but only when comes to metal, I mean sterling silver, gold, or even any of them plated, Also I do not like when they take off the nice patina of the nibs. But when we talk about other materials, in this case BHR, or celuloid or other materials I like them as closer as it was in cosmetical terms.

[Uncial]

I've a badly ink stained one. Will it remove that too?

[Marlow]

I've got this treatment kit on my workbench as yet unused... this thread is just the fillip I needed to get on with trying it out on a few pens.

[Inkyways]

I need to get this kit and test on all of my sad looking Pens that need to have another life of bright look.

The exact solution I was thinking about last year. I am happy to see before and after Look!!!

[Inkyways]

Hello there,

Could some one tell me what is the name of the MINERAL OIL BATH .

Any brand name?or a place to get it please .

Thank you in advance!!!

[Tweel]

Hello there,

Could some one tell me what is the name of the MINERAL OIL BATH .

Any brand name?or a place to get it please .

Thank you in advance!!!

 

Possibly this would help? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil#Nomenclature

Edited September 22, 2020 by Tweel

[PAKMAN]

With just one BHR pen needing this, I probably won't get the kit. But it sure is tempting, yours looks so nice!

[inkstainedruth]

The question I have is that most of my BHR pens actually have metal overlays. So how does this work with stuff like that? Do you have to remove the overlay and reattach it? Do you use really little brushes and try not to damage the metal by working around it? And honestly -- is the oxidation actually damaging the rubber? Or is it mostly just cosmetic? (And if you DO use the stuff, will you just end up causing more damage when it wears off and then oxidizes a deeper layer of the BHR?)

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

 

edited for typos

Edited September 22, 2020 by inkstainedruth