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Mb149 Piston Spindle Replacement


viju

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Hi again

It has been a while since I used this thread but I think I am ready to give a bit more info on the dreaded C ring removal tool I sell.

I have been waiting for the results of testing the tool, but I am pleased to say that my pal Fountainbel has given it a try and it seemed it passed with flying colours. I include the relevant text from his results.

I now intend to sell the said tool with a stainless tube to re-insert the ring and a Peek or Acetal helix as a pack, but eack item will be sold seperately as well.

I also have attached a photo demonstrating the technique to be used (using a 3mm rod and an O ring). As you see my tool inserts into the gap in the ring, by wrapping around the broken helix to access it. Not by poking down the side!

They will be available very soon.

 

Test results

Ive just tried it on 2 MB 149 fillers, with succes !

 

I initially had troubles on the first one, kind of learning curve.

 

But once I pivoted the hook properly under the C ring it jumped out easily.

 

The C ring on the second filler went out after the first attempt , great tool , congratulations !

20200325_193412.jpg

20200325_193215.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Hi all,

This is effectively an excellent tool to get the C ring out !

Although I initially had my doubts, my tests completely convinced me.

Well done Roger !

Francis

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  • 3 months later...

 

I would like to add that the C-ring is used on newer models only. The very early resin 149s with the friction fit filler do not use a C-ring to secure the spindle but a little metal socket which pushes into place.

 

Thanks Michael, this was incredibly helpful when I did a resin recently. The little can thing is a bit of a bear to remove- lots of surface area to create friction!

 

Ralf

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I would like to add that the C-ring is used on newer models only. The very early resin 149s with the friction fit filler do not use a C-ring to secure the spindle but a little metal socket which pushes into place.

 

Thanks Michael, this was incredibly helpful when I did a resin recently. The little can thing is a bit of a bear to remove- lots of surface area to create friction!

 

Ralf

the latest models do not use a c ring. In fact the spindle is no longer "permanently " attached to the filler cone anymore. HTH.

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have been working on what I think is a complete solution to this repair and I am very close to launching the parts as a kit on my website.

The kit will contain the ring removal tool which has already been tested by a repair expert, and my new part which inserts the new ring in position with very little effort and inflicts no stress on the knob by tapping or forcing etc.

An option of which type of helix rod and some new C rings complete the kit.

When it is launched I will post photographs etc.

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  • 6 months later...

Hi

Having had quite a few enquiries regarding the "C" ring insertion, i sourced a high quality stainless tube which is perfect for using to seat the ring and is now listed on my site.

The diameters used are quite important especially the internal which because it is a good fit on my helix, the tube is accurately aligned in the knob before tapping the ring in and possibly damaging the form inside. the outside diameter clears the hole in the knob so this should not be damaged either.

I have not given up however on the more advanced tool which is fully developed and waiting for me to make some......

 

tool 3.jpg

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OOPS!

Thanks for seeing that, i copied a previous listing and did not fix the SEO

Should be ok now

Roger

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Great to know! 
 

Your work is much appreciated 🙂

 

Do you plan on bringing back the rods as well?

 

Cheers

 

Michael

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11 hours ago, Custom Pen Parts said:

OOPS!

Thanks for seeing that, i copied a previous listing and did not fix the SEO

Should be ok now

Roger

I'm sorry - I still may be confused between the two. As both are still on your site, what is the difference between the two? Thank  you!

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14 hours ago, Custom Pen Parts said:

Thanks for the support. I am always adding to my products

Yes i still supply the Helix rods made in both Peek and Acetal  

https://www.custompenparts.co.uk/gb/mont-blanc/79-ketron-peek-helix-rod.html

 

  

 

 

Good to know! When I looked they were always out of stock 😅

 

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On 10/6/2020 at 11:49 PM, CeruleanToAzure said:

Thank you, it will work on 146s too?


The helix is identical on 146 and 149 from the same period. So is the c-ring from my experience.

 

Would love to hear if somebody experienced differently.

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  • 4 months later...
On 1/7/2020 at 7:59 PM, Michael R. said:

Today I just did replace another broken spindle...

I would like to add that the C-ring is used on newer models only. The very early resin 149s with the friction fit filler do not use a C-ring to secure the spindle but a little metal socket which pushes into place. The metal socket looks like a small metal can with a hole in the bottom...

Replacement spindles and sockets can be taken e.g. from broken Montblanc 12, 22, 32,... pens.

 

Maybe you get the idea from my amateurish sketch below 😉

 

49346702086_ceeb724a75_o.jpgIMG_7628 by pensninks, auf Flickr

 

Again a small drill can be used to drill out the remaining of the broken spindle and a matching thread tab (or even screw) to pull out the socket.

 

Cheers

 

Michael

Hello,

please pardon my late joining this thread.

I’m writing about a pre-70s mechanism for 149.

I just tried to clean and open a pre-70s turning knob.

I hand drilled inside the hole in the can-like socket (3.2 mm) and removed the rests od the spindle.

Then I prepared (filed and polished the front end of) a matching steel screw so it does not damage the inside plastic of the knob.

However, upon applying it, this can-like socket just wore out the screw threads without moving the socket for a fraction of a millimeter.

What did you meen by “thread tab”? Thread tap, perhaps?

How difficult and nerve-wrecking is this process? Is this brass-like socket friction-fit, or perhaps also glued? How much force does it need to pop out the socket?

Any additional info would be more than welcome.

 

Thanks in advance.

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As an aside to this thread, Roger (Custom Pen Parts) has just made some more helix rods. I've ordered ten from him, so he may only be making them for a "bulk" purchase, the quality of his parts far exceeds the original Montblanc parts.

et

Ignorance more frequently begets confidence than does knowledge (Charles Darwin)

http://www.wesonline.org.uk/

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Here’s the update to the post about disassembling the 60s 149 knob unit with brass cup and replacing a broken spindle.

In spite of heating and mechanical procedures described earlier, the cup didn’t move. 

I suspected it may have been glued in place.

Upon applying a tiny quantity of glue removing gel to the brass/plastic outward interface, I managed slightly freeing the cup rim with a dentist tool. Then I immediatelly and thorougly rinsed the knob in running water and gave it a 1-minute ultrasonic bath. Upon re-rinsing and drying I applied the steel screw described before and it pulled out. Upon cleaning the inside of the knob from plastic debris I put the spare spindle and re-applied the cup. 

The only thing I had to do was slightly widen the brass cup rim so it could friction-fit into place.

 

I’ve re-assembled the pen and it works for so far.

Although a considerable amount of “delicacy” and precision was required I’m aware this still was a bit of “brute force method” and am seeking for more elegant solutions.

 

DB35836B-2BA1-4436-8D95-B2A6AF9A7D53.jpeg.6a31d2e71c6a623f7290b9b4a2a6d872.jpeg

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7 hours ago, fountainbel said:

Hi all,

Hi, @fountainbel ,

Thanks for your advice, which is very useful on modern MB149/146, as the link says.

First of all I express my respect for your research and tools you created for facilitating the C-ringed 149/146 repairs.

What you might have perhaps missed reading through my humble posts was that that I was legitimately referring to some of the MB149s without a C-ring, that @Michael R. gave descriptions and illustrations: there are resin MB149s of older generations which do not have a C-ring, but a small friction-fit brass cup instead.

To those pens the “C-ring procedures and tools” don’t seem to apply, may I, please, put it simply.

 

 

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