The Old Apple Tree... Could It Become A Pen?

[thesmellofdustafterrain]

We have an old apple tree on our farm. The centre is rotting out so we lose large branches if the apples get too heavy. It's very pretty wood with interesting grain and there are some solid bits with beautiful burl.

 

I've been carving some wooden spoons from the wood, but as it fell down a few months back and the burls are complicated - and my carving skills are at absolute beginner - I wondered if this wood would be better suited for making a fountain pens instead of spoons. I always need more pens.

 

I wouldn't be the one to turn it, but I was thinking I could cut some blanks and stash them until the day when I can find a person who would be able to make some pens for me. By that time, they will be pretty dry... maybe I'll wrap them in kraft or news paper so they dry slower and have less chance of cracking.

 

Could you tell me, how big do the blanks need to be? Is it better to cut them bigger now then cut them into size later? Or cut them to size now and dry them slowly so they don't twist and crack too much? I don't really want to soak them in the stuff I can't remember what it's called that makes it not crack so much.

 

Is there any part of the branch where the wood is better for turning? I'm pretty low on heartwood due to the rot.

Edited January 30, 2019 by the-smell-of-dust-after-rain

[PAKMAN]

Not sure of the answer to your question but I hope it's possible!

[Inspector]

Commercial blanks for pen turners using kits are 3/4" square and about 5 1/2" long. Because you may have some warping when they dry I would cut them to roughly 7/8" to 1" square and as long as the wood is that you can handle. They can be cut to length when you need them and you don't waste as much. The only thing to not do is leave the centre of the branch in the blank. The wood will crack because the heartwood doesn't shrink as much as the rings further out. Pens can be made with the grain running along the length of the pen. Cut on a bias (45 degrees for example) or crosscut so the grain runs across the pen. Each way will produce different effects. You can dry small pieces of wood fairly quickly in the kitchen oven. Put the blanks inside the oven on warm and then turn it off and leave the oven light on. It will provide enough heat to dry the blanks in a few days. It won't work on a newer oven with LED bulbs, just the incandescent ones.

 

If you are looking at custom pens then the same sizes will apply. Instead of the brass hardware a kit turner would use the custom maker will likely make ebonite liners to slip inside the wood and be able to cut the threads. Either way you can get some beautiful and special pens from the Applewood.

 

If you can track down a local woodworking or woodturning club there will be members in them that would like the wood to turn or carve and you may get a few pens out of it. Kits naturally. Some may be able to stabilize the wood so that you can use the softer heartwood where the decay has produced lots of colour variations. It can also be coated as it is turned with thin CA (cyanoacrylate glue) to harden the wood.

 

Where in Canada are you? I might know of someone near you that can make the pens when you are ready.

 

Pete

[thesmellofdustafterrain]

Thanks Pete,

That's just what I needed to know.

 

I found someone with electric tools to help me cut the blanks (I'll cut up the branch into chunks by hand).

 

It's a glorious old tree. Here's a photo of it from about this time last year.

 

 

It's one of the three main branches that fell, so it's quite big... albeit hollow.

 

I'm wondering about who to get to make the pen(s). I looked at the kits the local shop sells and they don't look like they make the kind of pens I like to use. It sure would be neat to design a pen, but I haven't the skills or the time to learn how to do it myself just now. So I'll just get the blanks cut up and any other wood that looks good (an arbutus fell in the forest over the winter - lovely wood, but a bit twisty) for the hope of finding a pen maker.

[Inspector]

Seeing the sheep and mention of Arbutus, some of which I'd love to get my hands on, you're on Saltspring island perhaps?

 

Check William Wood-Write for a range of kits in Canada. https://www.penblanks.ca The Churchill would have the least amount of metal and be lighter.

 

Beaufort Ink in the UK have some nice kits too and they can be upgraded with Bock nibs. http://www.beaufortink.co.uk

 

I used to live in the Fraser Valley until we moved to Saskatoon.

 

Pete

Edited January 31, 2019 by Inspector

[thesmellofdustafterrain]

Wow, those kits look so much better than the ones I saw.

 

It must be a lot of fun to be able to turn pens. Hoping tomorrow is a good day for cutting blanks. I won't know what condition the wood is in until we cut into it. Fingers crossed there are some good bits.

[Pierre---]

I am used to make kitless wooden pens, all wood except ink, section and nib like these ones :

No kit parts, so you may choose the diameters you like. Sections can be made of ebonite for convenience. I prefer 20x20x200 mm as a blank, especially if you want ta wooden section. Cut it this size, paint the ends, and it will be dry within one year or so.

If your wood doesn't fear a little trip to old Europe, I could be your man.

[goodpens]

We have an old apple tree on our farm. The centre is rotting out so we lose large branches if the apples get too heavy. It's very pretty wood with interesting grain and there are some solid bits with beautiful burl.

 

I've been carving some wooden spoons from the wood, but as it fell down a few months back and the burls are complicated - and my carving skills are at absolute beginner - I wondered if this wood would be better suited for making a fountain pens instead of spoons. I always need more pens.

 

I wouldn't be the one to turn it, but I was thinking I could cut some blanks and stash them until the day when I can find a person who would be able to make some pens for me. By that time, they will be pretty dry... maybe I'll wrap them in kraft or news paper so they dry slower and have less chance of cracking.

 

Could you tell me, how big do the blanks need to be? Is it better to cut them bigger now then cut them into size later? Or cut them to size now and dry them slowly so they don't twist and crack too much? I don't really want to soak them in the stuff I can't remember what it's called that makes it not crack so much.

 

Is there any part of the branch where the wood is better for turning? I'm pretty low on heartwood due to the rot.

 

Great idea! I believe the answer is yes. In fact, last weekend I met a man who turns custom pens. He had *beautiful* stuff on display at a pen gathering. I'm considering having him make a custom pen for me, though it isn't in the cards for me at the moment.

 

I got his contact details. If you're interested in working with someone in the US (Colorado), send me a PM and I'll find his business card and share the info with you.