Conklin Nib

[NickyNewGuy]

I have a Conklin Duragraph, extra fine nib, paid $52 for it. So it is not an expensive pen but I was still wondering if the nib can be changed? I like the pen but the point of the nib is further away from my fingers (where I hold the pen), about 28mm, than where I hold my other pens, about 20mm, and is very uncomfortable. I would not think that 8mm would make that much difference. When I attempt to move over the plastic part and get closer to the nib I get ink on my fingers. Is this just the pen and should be put in the drawer?

[NinthSphere]

A replacement nib would necessarily be of roughly equivalent size, since that's what the pen is made to accommodate.

[NickyNewGuy]

A replacement nib would necessarily be of roughly equivalent size, since that's what the pen is made to accommodate.

 

Thank you for your reply. That is what I thought but wanted someone else's opinion. Have a great day.

[MidSouthern-Dad]

I have two Duragraphs, and although the acrylic bodies are beautiful, the Conklin nib units have inconsistent ink flow. One of my pens works great, the other one is dry and skippy. I’m not sure why the length from the section to the tip of the nib affects you adversely. This length gives you leverage for flexing. On my pen, with an Omniflex nib, the point is 24mm from the front of the section. With the modification to a gold nib (below), it is 23mm from section front to tip of nib. Try pushing your nib and feed into the pen. It may have worked out a bit.

 

If you wish to change your nib:

The nib units unscrew from the section. Grab the nib and feed, turn counterclockwise (with the nib pointing towards you), and the unit will unscrew out. You can buy other Conklin nib units from several retailers.

 

However, here's what I've done to change the steel nib to a flexible gold nib:

 

Fountain Pen Revolution (FPR) sells 14K gold flexible #6 nibs to go with their pens Buy the "unit", which has a collar, nib and feed already assembled. I find that the feed from FPR is better than the Conklin feed. I did try using the native Conklin feed, but it still had flow issues, even after cleaning /degreasing. I’ve saved time and obtained better performance by using the FPR feed that comes with the nib unit. The FPR collar won't fit the Conklin pen, so you need to isolate your Conklin collar, and insert the FPR nib and feed into the Conklin collar. The feed and nib merely pull straight out of the collar. While the nib and feed are disassembled, I use a toothbrush with liquid dishwashing soap to degrease the nib and feed. I suspect that a lot of the flow problems that Conklin pens have are due to residual oils left from the manufacturing. The FPR nib and feed also need degreasing.

 

Another point - the FPR gold nibs have the points pressed too firmly against each other, so that there is very little ink flow until the tines spread. After trying several ways to loosen the pressure on the tines, the gentlest way I've found it to use a narrow soft plastic item such as the handle of a disposable scalpel, and gently insert it into the slit. You do this on a loose nib, not one that is mounted. Start at the point, and gradually work your way towards the foot of the nib. This acts to wedge the two tines apart. Test frequently the tine tension at the tip before you go too far. You want the tips of the tines to touch, but without excessive pressure that would inhibit ink flow. Once you have done this, examine the alignment with a loupe to get the two tines even with each other. Assemble nib and feed into the Conklin collar. Note that there is a flat on the feed, which allows it to enter the collar only in one orientation. Once fully pushed into the collar, then you need to heat set the feed. Usually the tip of the feed is not in contact with the undersurface of the nib. I've done this twice so far, and both feeds as supplied were not in contact with the nib.

 

Heat setting: I use a mug of water, heated to boiling by heating in the microwave for 3 minutes. Immerse nib and feed (avoid immersing the collar) into the hot water for about 1 minute. Then, remove the nib unit from the water, and press the tip of the feed down against the undersurface of the nib. Use a pinching motion with your finger on the feed tip, and your thumb supporting the top surface of the nib. Hold pressure until you feel things cool down. Check with loupe to be sure that you don't see light between the nib and feed. The feed is plastic, not ebonite. Thus, it may take a couple of times before it will heat set properly. The hot water method prevents melted or distorted feeds from excessive heat.

 

Now, all you have to do is screw the nib unit back into the pen. Ink up your pen, and test on paper to see if the pen will write without pressure on the point. If it won't do so, then you have to work on loosening up the nib point a bit more.

 

The FPR gold nib is natively an EF to F nib in width. It will flex to 2 mm, and the FPR feed will supply ink for the full flex without railroading! I’ve not pushed the tines beyond 2mm. There is no breather hole on the slit to relieve tension, so it is conceivable that the slit may extend into a crack if you push things too far in flexing.

[Honeybadgers]

standard JoWo, Bock, Knox, nemosine, etc.

 

the only nibs that may not fit are the indian flex nibs. everything else should have zero problem.

 

Longer nibs in the same size might be JoWo and TWSBI's vac700R nibs (TWSBI nibs are quite long and I have fit them in basically everything I own)

 

I recommend just learning to hold the pen where the nib works best. Often in this hobby, unless you're prepared to return, donate or re-sell a lot of pens, you need to learn to adapt your hand to the pen, and not vice versa.

Edited January 12, 2019 by Honeybadgers