Jump to content

14K Vs. 18K Experience


RayCornett

Recommended Posts

For those who have 149s with 14k nibs as well as 18k nibs which do you prefer and why?

I have a chance to exchange my 149 with a 14k f-m nib for one with an 18k ef nib. I love the finer grind but am wondering if there are any differences that make it worth the exchange.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 11
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • RayCornett

    3

  • torstar

    2

  • zaddick

    2

  • tinta

    1

14C tri-tone marked L139 on the tail > 14C tri-tone > 18C tri-tone > 14C bi-tone > 18K bi-tone > 14K bi-tone > 18K tri-tone > AU 750 tri-tone

 

 

Those are my preferences. Basically the older the better and more likely to be springy.

Edited by zaddick

If you want less blah, blah, blah and more pictures, follow me on Instagram!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have tried 18c & 21c in other brands but on the whole prefer 14c. My only MB nib is a buttery 14c Flugelfeder BB on a second tier 245.

One of my best approx. 1.1 mm factory stubs.

 

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14C tri-tone > 18C tri-tone > 14C bi-tone > 18K bi-tone > 14K bi-tone > 18K tri-tone > AU 750 tri-tone

 

 

Those are my preferences. Basically the older the better and more likely to be springy.

 

do you have that memorized for quick reference, just in case?? :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

do you have that memorized for quick reference, just in case?? :D

Yup. It took time and money to sort it out for myself and now there is no doubt.

 

I actually left 1 out, so I guess I answered too quickly. The 14C tri-tone marked with an L139 on the tail is my first choice. I was for the 139 but used in early 149 production to consume remain in nibs.

If you want less blah, blah, blah and more pictures, follow me on Instagram!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Modern nibs are very smooth and write well but with no flex. Vintage nibs require more work to use but offer a greater experience proportionate to the effort made in using them. I find I can use a modern 18K broad nib for just about everything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello RayCornett,

 

I assume by 14K, you are referring to a 149 nib produced ca. 1985-90 which was a two-tone nib marked 14K. Those have longer tines than the three-tone 18K nibs. The two-tone 18K nibs also have slightly longer tines than the three-tone 18K nibs. This is true of those marked 18K and those marked simply 750 Au. So, if you switch a two-tone 14K nib for a two-tone 18K, I think you will find little difference.

 

I agree with Zaddick regarding the performance of older v newer 149 nibs. Those made prior to 1985 and marked 14C or 18C, whether three-tone or two-tone, are the most responsive in my experience. For springiness and responsiveness, my order of preference is 3-tone 14C, 2-tone 14C, 3-tone 18C, 2-tone 14K, 2-tone 18K, 3-tone 18K, 3-tone 750. I have never owned or used the rarest 149 nib, two-tone 18C.

 

Hope this explanation helps your nib consideration rather than just piling on more information.

Good luck,

Barry

Edited by Barry Gabay
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, everyone, for your input and future input. The reason I asked is someone with a newer 18k ef nib he claims to be an architect grind is talking to me about trading for my 1990 14k F-M. I love EF nibs, I also love architect grinds but am not holding my breath on the EF actually being an architect grind so that is no big deal.

Initially he was looking for a nib swap but then I thought, why not just trade pen for pen. His was recently serviced by MB for a piston issue. So, it is basically brand new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my early 90's nib is quite firm. it can squeak out some line variation but it's a medium-firm gold nib. I also find mine to be extremely dry, almost EF and skippy with no pressure, and with a little pressure it's a medium-broad.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup. It took time and money to sort it out for myself and now there is no doubt.

 

I actually left 1 out, so I guess I answered too quickly. The 14C tri-tone marked with an L139 on the tail is my first choice. I was for the 139 but used in early 149 production to consume remain in nibs.

 

 

haste makes waste; as always your posts are among the top hi-lites of my daily enjoyment of the FPN!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are looking for a semi-flex extra-fine nib, the contemporary EF are probably not the best to give you joy. If flex is not an issue, then I think that an extra-fine nib, of whichever period, would probably give you a more special experience than a medium nib, as they have more personality.

 

I would surely trade a fat fine or a skinny medium for an extra-fine. More fun...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33563
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26746
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...