Jump to content

From Penholder To Fountain Pen... Which Nib?!


AAS98

Recommended Posts

Do you think I can use a Pelikan converter for the platinum century 3776? Or do I have to buy a special converter for this pen?

 

I prefer to ask cause I initially bought the pelikan converter for my waterman hemispheres and they definitely don't fit..........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • AAS98

    27

  • Honeybadgers

    13

  • sidthecat

    3

  • BaronWulfraed

    3

The three main/common Japanese makers all use proprietary cartridge/converter fittings. Platinum is the closest to "international standard" in terms of the nipple size, but the converters are NOT interchangeable.

 

Sailor and Pilot converters have mouth openings that are the full diameter of the converter body (Sailor does have a small step-down, Pilot doesn't). The end of a "international standard" will actually go inside these converter mouths. Sailor and Pilot are also not cross-compatible -- Pilot nipples are /long/ on one side (they use a rubber disk to seal cartridges, and the nipple has a ==-- shape, the extended part flips the disk from | to _).

 

Platinum converters have a mouth just a bit larger than "standard" (by about the thickness of the plastic used in a "standard", and are square cut -- no step-down. "Standard" is a short bottle-nose shape.

 

At the price point of the 3776Century, I'd expect it to come with a converter. (Not the case for the $10 Carbon desk pen, or the PTL5000A).

 

 

I just did a quick test, and was able to cross-fit the converter from a Waterman Charleston with an Bexley and a Delta. Slight differences in the exact amount of bottle-neck (the Waterman had a shorter neck than the other two). The only one I couldn't manage was to fit the Waterman into an Aurora -- which may not be compatible with "standard" (it looks a tad larger in nipple diameter). Couldn't test a Pelikan as all five of my birds are piston fillers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay now I'm hesitating between a Soft Fine and an Ultra Extra fine what a hellllll

 

Found this on another post

 

So now... I suggest a vote !

I attach another file to give an idea of the line size I'm looking for... in your opinion, to get the closest result, is it more likely to be obtained (or at least approached) with a SF or an UEF?

 

Thanks a lot, looking forward not to have to bother you anymore ^^ if I had enough money I would buy both and it wd be easier, but I'm afraid I can't 😂

post-146416-0-56464100-1542742484_thumb.jpg

post-146416-0-60515200-1542742720_thumb.jpg

post-146416-0-70035400-1542742735_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Platinum UEF will give you fine lines, but you need a light touch and will get not variation with pressure. The SF will give some variation but can be scratchy.

 

I believe I have traveled the road you seem to be taking, and I suspect neither will be what you're looking for, although both have found a home with me. I'd love to be able to say "This. This is answer to your search", but I doubt it exists. I'm still looking, and what you search for may well be different again. I can really only wish you luck and hope you enjoy the nibs you find along the way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Platinum UEF will give you fine lines, but you need a light touch and will get not variation with pressure. The SF will give some variation but can be scratchy.

 

I believe I have traveled the road you seem to be taking, and I suspect neither will be what you're looking for, although both have found a home with me. I'd love to be able to say "This. This is answer to your search", but I doubt it exists. I'm still looking, and what you search for may well be different again. I can really only wish you luck and hope you enjoy the nibs you find along the way.

 

 

Thank you so much ^^ seems a very difficult way to find indeed, the one of satisfaction !!!

 

I come from a very very very very scrachy dip pen, so maybe I'll find the SF veeeeeery comfortable x))) Dunno. But tis probaby the one I'm gonna try because used with light hand it seems to give even thinner lines that the extra fine.

 

I think I'll exclude de UEF which seems to be hard to control (rigid writing appearance).

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you think I can use a Pelikan converter for the platinum century 3776? Or do I have to buy a special converter for this pen?

 

I prefer to ask cause I initially bought the pelikan converter for my waterman hemispheres and they definitely don't fit..........

 

no, the 3776 converter is specific to platinum pens.

 

Pelikan converters are standard international. The only japanese brand I know that uses S.I. converters is ohoto. Everything by platinum, sailor, or pilot will use a converter specific to their brand.

 

There is an adapter that costs a few bucks but it can leak, is a bit of a pain to install/remove and at that point, just buy a platinum converter. It's already a $60-70 pen (upwards of $150-250 in the US) so the extra cost is not that huge. in for a penny, in for a pound.

 

I have the 3776 in UEF, SF, B, and C (double broad) the SF will give you very very fine lines and some softness. the UEF is a scratchy, nail-hard pen that leaves absolute needlepoint lines and nothing else. I like it for very specific tasks (it's mainly my iron gall ink pen for crappy lab notebooks) but again, not an everyday pen. The soft fine is the sweet spot. Don't expect much flexibility (it can squeeze out a M or B but it's mostly just a nice bouncy thing with a very fine line) but it's a superb pen. If you want something similar, for a little more money, but less flashy, the pilot custom 74 or custom 91 can be had for only a few bucks more, the soft fine nib is noticeably softer and more flexible, those pens take the amazing con-70 pump converter which holds a gallon of ink, but the nib is smaller and less "flashy" and the inexpensive models only come in black with gold trim (74) or rhodium trim (91)

 

If you want, I can give you a writing sample of the 3776 SF vs the custom 91 SF nib. There will be no difference between the nibs in the custom 91 and custom 74 (The sections literally screw into each other) apart from the rhodium coating on the 91.

 

The reason the superflexible nibs suck for everyday writing is that they just can't keep up with real everyday situations. They work great when you're sitting down writing in a notebook, but if you have to sign an envelope they're going to firehose ink down into the paper, if you have to sign a document, same issue, signing a receipt (which is ink resistant) will just result in the cashier getting ink all over their hand, which is rude, they just don't keep up with really fast writing and require very good consistent writing angles, and can be prone to hard starting when you're writing a lot of fast scratchy lines or writing on an uneven surface.

 

What seems to be ideal for you is something on the bouncy and a little flexible range. But you need something that can work in everyday writing too. The japanese soft fine nibs can do that, but don't expect flex writing, more just able to add a little shade or flourish here and there. Both will be very, very fine compared to a western nib (both are on the finer side of what a western extra fine would be)

Edited by Honeybadgers

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Honeybadgers

 

"The japanese soft fine nibs can do that, but don't expect flex writing, more just able to add a little shade or flourish here and there. Both will be very, very fine compared to a western nib (both are on the finer side of what a western extra fine would be) "

 

This is e-xa-ctly what I'm looking for do I think the SF is gonna be just perfect!! Cause I was previously hesitating with the UEF/EF because in the end I was afraid the SF was maybe too flexible and gived big lines with too few pressure (and I'm mainly looking for something different than my waterman hemisphere, so line variation but still very thin!). But if you tell me it's very very fine indeed and remains fine although tis flexible, it is the best new ever!!

 

Ok so I'm gonna get a proper converter then!!

 

Oh ok I see the problem with the "wet noodles" ^^ I think I previously just didn't realize a nib could be that flexble...!

 

Thank you very very (very) much but as the Plat3776SF seems to suit perfectly and that... I couldn't afford anything more expensive at the moment 😅 I think it's gonna be fine :)

(And then I realise I did the best pun ever 💪🏻 ^^^^^^^^)

 

Thank you to all of you for all the time and answers... The way leading to the proper pen would have been shorter either with money or patience... but I'm afraid I don't have the first nor the second 😂 So appologies for the huge amount of nooby questions in low-level english ;) and thank you very, very much!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

one last recommendation - I prefer the chartres blue model to the red. The red has a white collar around the feed that just isn't to my liking. It's black in the chartres blue model. but they're functionally identical.

 

there is a small chance you may get one that is very dry. The fix for this is quite easy - pull the nib and feed straight out (it can sometimes be very tight but usually isn't) and lay the nib flat on a very hard surface like a plate, with the top of the nib facing up, press down gently but firmly right on top of the breather hole. this will open the tines up at the tip and make it write a little wetter. I've had 1 do this in the four SF 3776's I've bought.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, thank you very much for the tips!!

 

Actually I found a black one for 70 shipping costs included on ebay (i'm a piano student so I love black ^^)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What I crave with the penholder is that I can write super thin, with a line variation though, and... without putting almost any pressure.

It will be very difficult for a fountain pen to ever beat a penholder for flex and thinness. That's why penholders still exist at all.

 

Some posters like nailbender have put dip pen nibs in fountain pen feeds to make them a little more convenient to use.

Edited by Corona688
Link to comment
Share on other sites

By the way, may I use the Pelikan 4001 fountain pen inks with a Platinum Century 3776 SF? =)

 

Any fountain pen ink should work just fine in that pen.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Waiting to receive my pen ! ;)

 

I know Honeybadgers told me that any fountain pen ink would suit, however... I really like the Diamine Cocoa Shimmer but read that some people had some problems with this ink getting stuck into the pen/nib...?

 

(Sorry, getting out of the initial subject, but I don't want to kill my pen as soon as I receive it ^^)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should be relatively fine with shimmer inks but I personally don't love them. You'll get a little tired of the unprofessional glittery look. The two exceptions for me are j herbin emerald of chivor and nemosine snowball nebula. But just be aware that ink changes will take more time to flush out all the glitter. Only one shimmer ink I've ever used caused flow problems, rouge hematite. I did not recommend shimmer inks in high capacity piston or vac fillers because they can hold enough ink for the glitter inside to clog, plus the added inconvenience of cleaning, but a converter is usually fine. I recommend getting 3-5 more normal inks first. If shimmer really strikes you, perhaps an ink with psychotic sheen like organics studio nitrogen.

 

That pen will like shading inks most of all, so look into Noodlers habanero or apache sunset or stipula saffron. Pilot iroshizuku is also very premium at a reasonable price, I like the warm pale prown ina-ho.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I understand a bit better! Thank you very much! =) I also love the Monteverde Brown Sugar so... I'm gonna see what I can do with all this ^^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Waiting to receive my pen ! ;)

 

I know Honeybadgers told me that any fountain pen ink would suit, however... I really like the Diamine Cocoa Shimmer but read that some people had some problems with this ink getting stuck into the pen/nib...?

 

(Sorry, getting out of the initial subject, but I don't want to kill my pen as soon as I receive it ^^)

 

I really love shimmer inks, but they don't play equally well with all pens - and I haven't found a clear or consistent reason for it, though it almost certainly has to do with flow through the ink channel. The good thing is, if the shimmering ink doesn't work in your pen, it's relatively easy to flush out and try again (at least with J. Herbin and Diamine shimmer inks).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33567
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26750
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...