Have fun writing, and the CN nib may just be the maxi-semi-flex or even a superflex. Even if 'only' an Easy Full Flex, superflex it is still a fun nib to scribble with.
It IS a 100n, and I'd not nit pick, green and amber, if one was to fall my way.
At first I thought mine with a gold nib to be pre 'summer of '38, when Hitler stole the gold, first year 100n, but later I read that it was amber before and green after the war. The pen writes just fine and the Easy Full Flex nib a delight.
If one goes to Richard Binder's site, there is a great article on metal fatigue, which I call how to spring your nib.
My 100n's KEF nib will go 5X tine spread. After reading that article I strive to keep all my nibs from maxing often. I keep that Pelikan to 4 X....which is good enough considering.
So after testing that CN nib with the 'grin' flex, to find out how far it will flex, do mark down in your mind to keep it one width narrower than that..........to prevent metal fatigue and a sprung nib. My 100n will go 5 X but I strive to keep it at 4X.
Some good poster posted to a thread, that in the '30's, Waterman was going for nib bend, not tine spread. They were looking at 3 X tine spread................on all those Pinks and what ever color nibs that are routinely taken to 7X...........which is rare, 4, 5-6 are much more common, are all over stressed.
All I have is a Italic Calligraphy book, it deals with stiff italic nibs and lettering. But once one has learned to draw a letter, one gets close to the same letter form with a pulling superflex as with a pushing italic nib................In superflex my favorite letter is a capitol L, with a nib that goes wide I get an English handlebar mustache, with a nib that don't go real wide a Snidely Whiplash mustache.
One has to spend time learning to draw letters to get the most out of a superflex. Not every letter need be max drawn. Where do I turn the nib, where do I increase pressure and width, where do I let up to let the nib snap back. Being lazy, I have a hammer and chisel to crack the fossilized dust rust shut book........one does have to practice Drawing letters to do fancy.
All I do is an occasional fancy decender at the end of a paragraph or a fancy crossed T.
Practice and fancy comes easier.
I am lucky but got two 7 X and a 6X Waterman 52, from Mauricio; one's body a tad thinner than the other, I have to sweat to make it write XXF, think to make it write EF and commonly scribble with it at an F.....in my Hand is not quite as light as I could wish.
He says it takes a great deal of finicky work to set the feed and nib to get max out of them.
This is superflex with a slick fast feed.....with a Knox nib....one is not really working with a fast feed, nor does it matter if one is a hair off, in one is not looking for max superflex.
So don't go yanking out the nib of your CN nib....could well be when you shove everything back together it won't be quite as good as it was before, in the feed and nib won't be as perfectly fit as it was. The 100/100n's three comb/rill feed is faster than the '50-65 four comb feed.
I was very surprised both the 100n and Ibis were made to 1954.
Don't forget the Ibis, I'd thought it more a 120 type of pen and never worried about one. :wallbash:A bit Snobbish....
One was part of a live auction lot. Gold nib............... Maxi-semi-flex.
Well one could get a semi-flex just as easy...............not a real pretty pen, but works like a champ; balances well when posted.
Now would be the time to start looking for them, before they get expensive.
I'm going to have to look for the old Rappen, the cheap Pelikan before the Ibis. One could think of the Ibis as a sort of 140...the second tier Pelikans.
I'm not going to beat the bushes for a Rappen, but would keep it in mind.