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Most Lubricated/velvety Ink?


Mongoosey

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Smoothest, wettest in my experience: Blackstone inks.

 

I tried blackstone, Barrier Black, I believe it was, and that was also the darkest black I have ever used.

 

Even darker than Heart of darkness, OMB, and Kiwa-Guro.

 

Lately, my go-to-ink has switched from HOD to mynew #1 ink: Kiwa-Guro, which IMO, with a descent flowing pen, does show how an ink can tune a nib. I'll still use HOD, being my #3 ink, but only ink pens Kiwa-Guro is dry in and that's contesting with Sailor Souboku now, which is my #2 ink.

 

I have Kiwa-Guro inked with a stock Goulet Medium in a Ranga and it feels perfectly tuned from a nibmeister.

____________________________________

You know it was quite surprising to discover how paper can influence the writing experience, especially so by how I find Tomoe River Paper to enhance such better than any other IMO.

 

And now, to have Kiwa-Guro working in a similar fashion of enhancement....

 

...really allows for an exceptional writing experience with less expensive pens. I've had pens twice the cost tuned by nibmeisters not feel as good as this Ranga with a Stock Jowo Medium with Kiwa-Guro.

 

Clearly I've found my desert island ink, but also an exceptional writing experience below an expected price point.

 

Mind you I do have a Pilot Custom 14kGold nib medium on the way and do plan on purchasing a Lamy 2k in the near future and ultimately an Aurora 88, but I'm not in a hurry anymore that's for sure. Quite the opposite in fact.

 

Kiwa-guro may be a little pricier, but if you have a pen it flows well in (recommend a sample), it's well worth it. I have a full bottle right now with another one on they way. That good, and I'm not even acknowledging how well it works on cheaper paper, on any paper at that with no smudging even on 52gsm TRP, and the reactively lower maintenance required for such a permanent ink.

 

Kiwa-Guro is the first ink I've used that truly allows me to bridge the fountain pen world to ordinary EDC, cheap paper, every day anywhere writing capacity that I previously had to use a ballpoint for in leu of my fountain pen.

 

I find Kiwa-Guro bridges fountain pens from a hobby into that practicability necessary for someone to simply own 1 pen, 1 ink, and be enough without having to break the bank and pursue the hobby down such a deep rabbit hole, not that that's a bad thing, but more that it allows people who don't want to and wouldn't dive down much into the rabbit hole to still experience the fountain pen and what it can offer.

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I tried blackstone, Barrier Black, I believe it was, and that was also the darkest black I have ever used.

 

Even darker than Heart of darkness, OMB, and Kiwa-Guro.

 

Lately, my go-to-ink has switched from HOD to mynew #1 ink: Kiwa-Guro, which IMO, with a descent flowing pen, does show how an ink can tune a nib. I'll still use HOD, being my #3 ink, but only ink pens Kiwa-Guro is dry in and that's contesting with Sailor Souboku now, which is my #2 ink.

 

I have Kiwa-Guro inked with a stock Goulet Medium in a Ranga and it feels perfectly tuned from a nibmeister.

____________________________________

You know it was quite surprising to discover how paper can influence the writing experience, especially so by how I find Tomoe River Paper to enhance such better than any other IMO.

 

And now, to have Kiwa-Guro working in a similar fashion of enhancement....

 

...really allows for an exceptional writing experience with less expensive pens. I've had pens twice the cost tuned by nibmeisters not feel as good as this Ranga with a Stock Jowo Medium with Kiwa-Guro.

 

Clearly I've found my desert island ink, but also an exceptional writing experience below an expected price point.

 

Mind you I do have a Pilot Custom 14kGold nib medium on the way and do plan on purchasing a Lamy 2k in the near future and ultimately an Aurora 88, but I'm not in a hurry anymore that's for sure. Quite the opposite in fact.

 

Kiwa-guro may be a little pricier, but if you have a pen it flows well in (recommend a sample), it's well worth it. I have a full bottle right now with another one on they way. That good, and I'm not even acknowledging how well it works on cheaper paper, on any paper at that with no smudging even on 52gsm TRP, and the reactively lower maintenance required for such a permanent ink.

 

Kiwa-Guro is the first ink I've used that truly allows me to bridge the fountain pen world to ordinary EDC, cheap paper, every day anywhere writing capacity that I previously had to use a ballpoint for in leu of my fountain pen.

 

I find Kiwa-Guro bridges fountain pens from a hobby into that practicability necessary for someone to simply own 1 pen, 1 ink, and be enough without having to break the bank and pursue the hobby down such a deep rabbit hole, not that that's a bad thing, but more that it allows people who don't want to and wouldn't dive down much into the rabbit hole to still experience the fountain pen and what it can offer.

+1. Couldn't agree more. Prior to kiwa guro,I always had to keep a spare ball point. Not any more.
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Hi Mongoosey, et al,

 

I'm one of the crazy ones who does believe the ink itself makes a difference... despite what a double-blind audio cable test indicated... :D ...I've experienced different writing experiences using the same pen and paper, but different inks.

 

I concur with OCArt, the slickest inks I've encountered thus far, include Aurora Black and the Iroshizuku series from Pilot.

 

I'm going to have to try out those Blackstone inks that Lgsoltek recommends... his are not the first praises for those inks that I've happened across here.

 

Be well. :)

 

 

- Anthony

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Btw, Kiwa-guro may be a phenomenal one,... but I'm not a heavy black ink user.

 

- A.C.

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I don't want boring monotone ink.

I want two toned shading ink...............thought of as pastel or not dark enough by the OP.

 

What is the difference between lubrication and wetness?

 

Why is it so many want very wet Japanese inks?

 

....wasn't until a short while ago did I find out Japanese inks are considered wet. Just knew everyone and his stateside brother were buying Japanese inks.............have no idea what colors they are............not going to learn either.You know how it is, Don't touch my mustache. and they don't even say my blueish don't touch my mustache ink.

 

Just finished reading more about Japanese inks in the wet and shading area....and that too seems to be the normal yes but maybe FP thing.

Got to find out which ones shade.

 

Rocket science is so simple...which match does one use to light it up; paper or wood?

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Smoothest, wettest in my experience: Blackstone inks.

Sydney Harbour Blue is absolutely lovely, one of my favorite colors out there. I have to be careful with which pen it goes into because it will lay down a puddle if you’re not careful.

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Hi Mongoosey, et al,

 

I'm one of the crazy ones who does believe the ink itself makes a difference... despite what a double-blind audio cable test indicated... :D ...I've experienced different writing experiences using the same pen and paper, but different inks.

 

I concur with OCArt, the slickest inks I've encountered thus far, include Aurora Black and the Iroshizuku series from Pilot.

 

I'm going to have to try out those Blackstone inks that Lgsoltek recommends... his are not the first praises for those inks that I've happened across here.

 

Be well. :)

 

 

- Anthony

 

I recently received a wonderful Pilot Custom 74-M in the mail. It worked very well with both Kiwa-Guro and Yama-Guri, but both writing experiences were completely different.

 

Despite the fact that Kiwa-Guro wrote a much finer line it was so lubricated I could barely feel the nib, . I felt like I needed the pen to be heavier and/or have a finer nib.

 

I went back to Yama-Guri for that pen and the feel is exceptional with a harmony of smoothness and very pleasant feedback: Like they were made for each other :thumbup:

 

Btw, Kiwa-guro may be a phenomenal one,... but I'm not a heavy black ink user.

 

- A.C.

 

I don't blame you. It's my top EDC ink, but disregarding how an ink works on cheaper paper I think my favorites are Iroshizuku's.

 

Shin-Kai's been in my cart for a while... too long if you ask me. I need to do something about that lol.

 

I still have yet to acquire Asa-Gao, which blew me away at a pen show. That one has found its way into my cart lol.

 

Take Sumi is probably my favorite black. It has depth yet is still dark, not muted nor lost to the gray side of things. I've never seen such depth to a black that was a pleasing hue to start out with.

 

But right now I got a thing for Yama-Guri. I like to use Browns as an alternative black and Yama-Guri shades well, and my Pilot C74-Medium really brings out its potential, IMO.

I don't want boring monotone ink.

I want two toned shading ink...............thought of as pastel or not dark enough by the OP.

 

What is the difference between lubrication and wetness?

 

Why is it so many want very wet Japanese inks?

 

....wasn't until a short while ago did I find out Japanese inks are considered wet. Just knew everyone and his stateside brother were buying Japanese inks.............have no idea what colors they are............not going to learn either.You know how it is, Don't touch my mustache. and they don't even say my blueish don't touch my mustache ink.

 

Just finished reading more about Japanese inks in the wet and shading area....and that too seems to be the normal yes but maybe FP thing.

Got to find out which ones shade.

 

Rocket science is so simple...which match does one use to light it up; paper or wood?

 

The difference I experienced between Yama-Guri and Kiwa-Guro IMO helps to demonstrate a significant difference between wetness and lubrication: Though, in the same pen, Kiwa-Guro wrote a finer line, I could feel the nib much less than the wetter wider line of Yama-Guri.

 

I'd say if you haven't tried many Japanese inks, the way to go is Iroshizuku IMO from what you're saying, though I lack the extensive experience of some the reviewer on FPN.

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  • 1 year later...

I stumbled across the this having done a search for lubricated inks... I have inks that are seemingly wet but still skip in certain pens on some strokes- pens that dont skip with smoother inks. I dont quite understand why this happens with some pens.

 

My go to ink, and long time favourite, is Pilot BB, which behaves well consistently in everything. Plenty of inks, especially Diamine, have a torrid time with some of my pens, mainly fine Japense nibs. But the same inks can work perfectly in the far toothier, and generally much cheaper, Lamy and Kaweco pens. What gives? I tend to write on Rhodia/Clarefontaine paper, which is utterly unusable with the wrong ink in certain pens, but beautiful with the likes of Pilot BB, Monteverde Horizon Blue, and various Pilot/Sailor inks Ive owned over the years.

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I stumbled across the this having done a search for lubricated inks... I have inks that are seemingly wet but still skip in certain pens on some strokes- pens that dont skip with smoother inks. I dont quite understand why this happens with some pens.

 

My go to ink, and long time favourite, is Pilot BB, which behaves well consistently in everything. Plenty of inks, especially Diamine, have a torrid time with some of my pens, mainly fine Japense nibs. But the same inks can work perfectly in the far toothier, and generally much cheaper, Lamy and Kaweco pens. What gives? I tend to write on Rhodia/Clarefontaine paper, which is utterly unusable with the wrong ink in certain pens, but beautiful with the likes of Pilot BB, Monteverde Horizon Blue, and various Pilot/Sailor inks Ive owned over the years.

 

Oh, yes! I have had troubles even with Waterman Serenity (the most bla bla ink), Pilot Blue Black always works well in anything. So does Diamine Midnight.

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

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What characteristic is it that this paper hates in some inks? Even a usually reliable ink like Herbin Perle Noire has issues- slight feathering and the odd missed stroke even with more pressure being applied than normal. One pen I tried- a Pilot Prera- couldnt get through a line of writing on Clairefontaine with THREE different inks, but plonk in the Pilot BB and its simply perfect?!?

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What characteristic is it that this paper hates in some inks? Even a usually reliable ink like Herbin Perle Noire has issues- slight feathering and the odd missed stroke even with more pressure being applied than normal. One pen I tried- a Pilot Prera- couldnt get through a line of writing on Clairefontaine with THREE different inks, but plonk in the Pilot BB and its simply perfect?!?

 

I don't understand the appeal of Clairefontaine, but I love the paper in the Rhodia pads.

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What characteristic is it that this paper hates in some inks? Even a usually reliable ink like Herbin Perle Noire has issues- slight feathering and the odd missed stroke even with more pressure being applied than normal. One pen I tried- a Pilot Prera- couldnt get through a line of writing on Clairefontaine with THREE different inks, but plonk in the Pilot BB and its simply perfect?!?

 

I am not claiming it is the case, but it often has a lot to do with the nib. Especially super smooth nibs can be a nightmare on sleek papers. Below is a link, Olya elsewhere posted it - about Pilot Blue-Black - which is supposed to be cellulose reactive (at least according to the author). A great thing about Pilot Blue-Black is while it is water resistant one can wash it instantly with a soap (so technically it is not an archival ink), from clothes for example, which is very useful. Few days ago I was comparing Pilot, Waterman Serenity and GvFC Cobalt Blue in the same pen, the most troubles (but not a lot) caused Waterman unless some pressure applied, while GvFC flowed well despite being a lot drier than Waterman Serenity. Pilot worked like a dream.

 

According to this blog post, Pilot BlBl is cellulose reactive!

 

https://estilofilos.blogspot.com/2016/05/vintage-inks.html

 

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

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Thats interesting. I knew there had to be a special property in the Pilot ink that made it behave so well in pens with super smooth nibs. I guess if the Japanese are going to make predominantly super smooth nibs then their inks would have to factor this in!

 

European and American inks are always a game of trial and error for me in my Japanese pens, especially as I prefer smoother paper. (More are failures than successes, sadly). Maybe broader nibs would also help?

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Thats interesting. I knew there had to be a special property in the Pilot ink that made it behave so well in pens with super smooth nibs. I guess if the Japanese are going to make predominantly super smooth nibs then their inks would have to factor this in!

 

European and American inks are always a game of trial and error for me in my Japanese pens, especially as I prefer smoother paper. (More are failures than successes, sadly). Maybe broader nibs would also help?

Broader nibs are not necessarily the solution. I had an afwul experience with a couple of broad vintage M800 nibs and Edelstein inks. In general though there are some nibs that write with everything on anything, such as some Waterman from 80s and Duofold Centennial/International MK1 (but I don't like their nibs, they're true nails).

It's deadly frustrating - writing with a high end nib (without any defect or anything) and a high end ink (not dry at all) on a high end paper... with a neverending skipping and hard starts.

Edited by aurore

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

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I totally agree, by the way, that using high end pens with high end ink on high end paper, and getting crappy results is very disappointing and irritating.

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aurore, have you had problems even when using Pilot or Sailor inks?

Well, I have used about 6 Iroshizuku, two Pilot standard (Blue and Blue-Black) and roghly 8 Sailor inks. Except Sailor Yonaga fast drying on nib (it's a very thick ink with tons of dye in it) no such troubles at all. But the same I can say about Diamine Midnight - if there are skips or/and hard starts with this ink, the pen is faulty.

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

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Thats a pretty good success rate with the Japanese inks! Same for me. I havent tried Diamine Midnight, yet. My favourite non Japanese ink I can successfully use in my fussier pens is Herbins Horizon Blue.

 

Edit: Come to think of it, I actually havent used that in my Prera yet, which is my single fussiest. I should, just out of curiosity...

Edited by RJS
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