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Well-Behaved Red Inks

YPwalt

By YPwalt
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Brianm_14 Extremely Rare

Brianm_14

Posted
Posted

Sheaffer's red is a nice bright red and from comments posted here, and my experience is less likely to cause problems. In terms of feathering, on crappy paper it only spreads/feathers a small amount.

Yes another vote (from a bleary-eye college professor) for Skrip Red, or the Waterman or Pilot versions. The latter can be found in big, fairly-priced bottles. Darken a bit with Pilot blue, blue-black, or black, if you wish, experimenting with drop-wise amounts at first. You can do the same with the other inks; just mix only within brand lines.

 

But I like them all as they are, in that order. For a little variation, try Diamine Oxblood.

Brian

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YPwalt NOS (New Old Stock)

YPwalt

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Picked up a bottle of widowmaker .... a slight bit of feathering but not bad considering my insistence on using medium nibs... and a great color

 

Still interested in other thoughts

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A Smug Dill Museum Piece

A Smug Dill

Posted
Posted

I'm currently drawn to:

Noodler's Widowmaker

Noodler's Black Swan in Australian Roses

Noodler's Nikita

Noodler's Cape Cod Cranberry

and possibly, Diamine Matador

 

...‹snip›…

 

Any experiences to indicate a best choice out of these for minimal feathering /bleed-through?

 

Still interested in other thoughts

Isn't it easier for you to simply try to acquire samples of each of those inks and test them out yourself, either from sellers who will offer samples of such commercially, or asking your fellow forum members to send you one or more samples if they have it?

 

I don't have any of those inks, haven't used any of them, and am not interested in buying/using/trying any more Noodler's inks, so I'm afraid I can't help you there, even though I do have a dozen or more different red inks.

 

If you expressly constrain the search space, then the way for (me as) a fellow forum member is to show respect for your self-imposed constraints, instead of trying to help you broaden your search as if getting the best functional outcome were more important in the grand scheme of things.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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Struebs Dipped Only

Struebs

Posted
Posted

+1 on Sheaffer Skrip Red. It currently is my favorite ink. Mark books with it, write with it, doodle with it. Until Christmas brings some new inks...it’s my primary no matter the pen.

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Honeybadgers Donor Pen

Honeybadgers

Posted
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I can say now that lamy's new gemstone limited edition color - Ruby - is superb.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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Timotheus Near Mint

Timotheus

Posted
Posted

Another vote for J. Herbin Rouge Grenat. A bit on the wet side, very pleasant to use. Its colour is very similar to the popular Diamine Red Dragon.

Italix Captain's Commission F – Italix Parson's Essential F – Kaweco Dia2 EF – Pilot Custom 74 SF – Sailor 1911 Simply Black F – TWSBI Classic EF – Rotring Altro F

 

“As for the qualities of which you may know, ‘These qualities lead to dispassion, not to passion; to being unfettered, not to being fettered; to shedding, not to accumulating; to modesty, not to self-aggrandizement; to contentment, not to discontent; to seclusion, not to entanglement; to aroused persistence, not to laziness; to being unburdensome, not to being burdensome’: You may definitely hold, ‘This is the Dhamma, this is the Vinaya, this is the Teacher’s instruction.’”

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amberleadavis Pen Dust

amberleadavis

Posted
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Djinn of the Eternal Flame. Really quite nice!

 

 

OOO I have that one too.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

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EdwardSouthgate Rare

EdwardSouthgate

Posted
Posted (edited)

"Noodler's Black Swan in Australian Roses"

 

I would skip this one. The formula varies too much.

You'd better off with Ottoman Rose, which is a soft red, or Red-Black, which is as it says.

 

My Red=Black is nothing but brown . Water it down and there is a hint of red but it is still brown .

 

How about the 3Oysters Studio Flaverse Hera , dark but not brown or Burgandy .See the review on that line for a good example under Inkimg Outside the Bottle .

Edited by EdwardSouthgate
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Corona688 Extremely Rare

Corona688

Posted
Posted

Often times, though, one of the most important things for bad paper is simply nib size. Stick to F/EF for bad paper.

So for bad paper, stick to the scratchiest nibs possible? Why?
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TSherbs Donor Pen

TSherbs

Posted
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So for bad paper, stick to the scratchiest nibs possible? Why?

Thin nibs put down the least ink. A smooth F or EF should not be scratchy on any paper.

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A Smug Dill Museum Piece

A Smug Dill

Posted
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So for bad paper, stick to the scratchiest nibs possible? Why?

 

 

Why would you illogically equate a narrow nib width on a pointed pen (with round tipping and not a relatively broad flat edge) with being scratchy? I've used plenty of F and EF nibs that are not scratchy, including some which are quite 'feedback-y'; they don't scrape lines off the paper coating, or cause fibres in the sheet to be ripped up or shredded, or leave lacerations or indentations that you could feel on the paper surface.

 

A scratchy nib is a poorly made, or subsequently damaged, nib. You can easily have a Broad nib with an uneven surface that require further polishing to smooth out, or one with misaligned tines. You can just as easily have an Extra Fine nib that has been worked on to perfection by a nibsmith and writes smoothly with a suitable ink.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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Runnin_Ute Museum Piece

Runnin_Ute

Posted
Posted

Diamine Classic Red is good for this use, but it is not immune from feathering on really bad paper. I had it feather in a Parker 45 EF and A (accountant) nib on the atrocious copy paper at my office. But I blame the paper. It is a good color though.

Brad

"Words are, of course, the most powerful drug used by mankind" - Rudyard Kipling
"None of us can have as many virtues as the fountain-pen, or half its cussedness; but we can try." - Mark Twain

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Corona688 Extremely Rare

Corona688

Posted
Posted (edited)

Why would you illogically equate a narrow nib width on a pointed pen (with round tipping and not a relatively broad flat edge) with being scratchy?

The laws of physics. There's a limit on how smooth it can be when it's smaller than the imperfections in the paper. Edited by Corona688
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A Smug Dill Museum Piece

A Smug Dill

Posted
Posted

There's a limit on how smooth it can be when it's smaller than the imperfections in the paper.

 

 

Again, that is no reason and there is no reason to conclude that:

  • an individual EF or F nib, untested by you, would be objectively scratchy and unduly lacerate or otherwise damage the paper surface; or
  • an individual EF or F nib, untested by you, would be relatively scratchier than a broader nib; or
  • the average 'scratchiness' – as determined by some objective metric – or a collection of various EF and F nibs, would be higher than that of a collection of various broader nibs,

assuming that the EF and F nibs in question are well-made and well-maintained, irrespectively of whether the broader nibs are equally well-made and well-maintained.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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MRose Near Mint

MRose

Posted
Posted

I have Noodler's Widow Maker, is a beautiful dark red very elegant, don't know if it would be good for corrections though cause for that you will need a bright nice red. I can't recommend another red cause Widow Maker is the only one I have, but I've been wanting to get Noodler's Nikita or Dragons Napalm (this one being a very interesting red with very unique qualities)...

 

widow%20maker_zps8noqyba4.jpg

FP's: Noodler's Charlie Pen, Noodler's King Philip Ahab, JinHao X450 Blue, JinHao X750 Gold, Jinhao 599 Transparent, Hero 366 Green, Hero 9626, Hero 329-A Jinhao Shark Black and Green,Jinhao 992 Coffee, Lamy Safari Black, Lanbitou /2 Transparent/ 1 Black /1 Red/1 Beige, Hero 9075 Black, Twsbi Go Saphire, Jinhao Porcelain Horses, Pilot Vanishing Point Black
INKS: Noodler's Heart of Darkness - Baystate Blue - Apache Sunset - Bullet Proof Black - Blue Nose Bear - Black Swan In Australian Roses - Widow Maker - 54th Massachusetts - Navajo Turquoise - Burning Rome - General of The Armies
OTHER INKS: Thortons - Green / Pelikan-Blue / J. Herbin 1670- Ocean Blue / Diamine Skulls and Roses

 

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