P51 And Silicone Grease

[tisquinn]

Hi all,

 

I had a slight leak in a P51 at the top of the section so I put in a little grease. It fixed it perfectly, but I'm wondering whether I used a grease that's bad for the pen. It's a pure PFPE (perfluoropolyether) grease: https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Extreme-Fluoro-Syringe/dp/B01AKFHR6E. Any thoughts?

 

Thanks!

Edited October 9, 2018 by tisquinn

[Ron Z]

There are many threads talking about this - and plenty of those who use silicone grease, and plenty who argue against it. Based on years of repair experience, I'm in the later camp.

 

Pure silicone grease is safe to use with most pens. I use, and sell, Molykote 111, which is designed to resist washing off, and which their data sheets says is safe for use with most plastics. They always leave a little wiggle room on those things...

 

I have seen evidence that suggests that at least on the vacumatic filled 51s, Parker used a rosin based thread sealant. Most repair people use shellac because the Lucite can handle the temperatures needed to let it release to get the hood off while keeping the casual (and perhaps mechanically inept) owner from opening the hood and screwing things up. I would use something like melted bees wax if you don't want to use thread sealant or shellac, and silicone grease last. Silicone grease is a lubricant, not a sealant, and any "sealing" that happens is really because silicone grease is hydrophobic. It also I believe, makes it easier to over tighten the hood, leading to cracking from the edge. But its your pen....

 

The one exception is with the aerometric 51s that use an 0-ring to seal. In that case, even if I'm going to secure it with shellac, I will put a little silicone grease on the shell where the shell will come in contact with the 0-ring, so that the shell can be screwed on without it binding, reducing the risk of the shell cracking.

[pajaro]

There are many threads talking about this - and plenty of those who use silicone grease, and plenty who argue against it. Based on years of repair experience, I'm in the later camp.

 

Pure silicone grease is safe to use with most pens. I use, and sell, Molykote 111, which is designed to resist washing off, and which their data sheets says is safe for use with most plastics. They always leave a little wiggle room on those things...

 

I have seen evidence that suggests that at least on the vacumatic filled 51s, Parker used a rosin based thread sealant. Most repair people use shellac because the Lucite can handle the temperatures needed to let it release to get the hood off while keeping the casual (and perhaps mechanically inept) owner from opening the hood and screwing things up. I would use something like melted bees wax if you don't want to use thread sealant or shellac, and silicone grease last. Silicone grease is a lubricant, not a sealant, and any "sealing" that happens is really because silicone grease is hydrophobic. It also I believe, makes it easier to over tighten the hood, leading to cracking from the edge. But its your pen....

 

The one exception is with the aerometric 51s that use an 0-ring to seal. In that case, even if I'm going to secure it with shellac, I will put a little silicone grease on the shell where the shell will come in contact with the 0-ring, so that the shell can be screwed on without it binding, reducing the risk of the shell cracking.

 

Thanks for this really good explanation. You put in some finer points I hadn't seen before. It's a help in having a better understanding of the pen.

[tisquinn]

Hi Ron,

 

Thanks for taking the time to respond! It's so kind to lend your expert knowledge! So would you recommend using a little degreaser (another chemical?...) to clean off the grease I already applied and then use the touch of beeswax? Or to just add a little beeswax over the grease that's there? I'm inclined to just leave it as is given that it is working perfectly but for my fear (it seems unneeded?) that the PFPE will effect the plastic.

 

Thanks again!!

[Ron Z]

You could use naphtha or alcohol to remove the silicone, but I wouldn't worry about the silicone grease on the Lucite of the pen. It's pretty tough stuff - and the silicone really won't hurt the pen. Wipe off what you can, and use the bees wax.

 

Correction - this is teflon, not silicone. Its been a busy day with short intervals at the computer. It may not harm the Lucite of the pen, but I wouldn't use it.

[gammada]

You could use naphtha or alcohol to remove the silicone, but I wouldn't worry about the silicone grease on the Lucite of the pen. It's pretty tough stuff - and the silicone really won't hurt the pen. Wipe off what you can, and use the bees wax.

 

 

I plan to service one of my Parker 51 pens that also has a leak on top of the section but I'm intending to keep it serviceable. Could I just seal it with teflon tape?

[Ron Z]

 

 

I plan to service one of my Parker 51 pens that also has a leak on top of the section but I'm intending to keep it serviceable. Could I just seal it with teflon tape?

 

No. Teflon tape makes a mess, and creates outward pressure on the threads of the shell, and it doesn't work especially well. You'd have to reapply it every time you opened the pen. Bees wax would be better. I hate cleaning Teflon tape out of the threads on pens.

[Ron Z]

 

Thanks for this really good explanation. You put in some finer points I hadn't seen before. It's a help in having a better understanding of the pen.

 

Good, and you're welcome! I'm glad it helps to clarify things. I try, but don't always hit the mark.

[ac12]

 

 

I plan to service one of my Parker 51 pens that also has a leak on top of the section but I'm intending to keep it serviceable. Could I just seal it with teflon tape?

 

Do it right, get the thread sealant/rosin to secure and seal the hood.

A small jar will last you a lifetime, as you only use a very tiny amount.

 

Or use ink sac shellac.

[tisquinn]

Thanks so much all!!!

[MightyEighth]

I'd like to approach this thread from a different aspect, if I may. Two of my three 51's have hoods that are not secured by any adhesive, but they don't leak. Is it just a matter of time before they do leak? Is it acceptable for them to live this way so long as they don't leak?

 

Thanks.

- Marc

[pajaro]

I'd like to approach this thread from a different aspect, if I may. Two of my three 51's have hoods that are not secured by any adhesive, but they don't leak. Is it just a matter of time before they do leak? Is it acceptable for them to live this way so long as they don't leak?

 

Thanks.

- Marc

Before I discovered this place I found a few 51s that were either coming apart or were in pieces. I puzzled out getting them together, and used no adhesive, because I knew nothing about it. At least one is still with me and working. Never leaked. Sometimes ignorance is bliss. I am not taking it apart to shellac the hood.

[MightyEighth]

Before I discovered this place I found a few 51s that were either coming apart or were in pieces. I puzzled out getting them together, and used no adhesive, because I knew nothing about it. At least one is still with me and working. Never leaked. Sometimes ignorance is bliss. I am not taking it apart to shellac the hood.

 

Good to know. And despite Ron's reference to casual or inept owners "opening the hood and screwing things up," I have taken advantage of the "loose" hoods to remove them for a little extra cleaning access when flushing.

 

- Marc

[Ron Z]

 

Good to know. And despite Ron's reference to casual or inept owners "opening the hood and screwing things up," I have taken advantage of the "loose" hoods to remove them for a little extra cleaning access when flushing.

 

- Marc

 

OTOH, I've had many come in because the hoods were leaking... and I've had pens come back that were played with, and the owner couldn't get things lined up right. Some folks can handle mechanical things. Some folks have absolutely no mechanical skills, and mess up sharpening a #2 pencil. Maybe not that bad, but you get the point.

[Erik Dalton]

I'd like to approach this thread from a different aspect, if I may. Two of my three 51's have hoods that are not secured by any adhesive, but they don't leak. Is it just a matter of time before they do leak? Is it acceptable for them to live this way so long as they don't leak?

 

Thanks.

- Marc

I listen to Ron like gospel, i’m Going with bees wax and rosin. but I think In your case, if you’ve been using it with no issues and are comfortable that the pen won’t someday wreck your shirt, then i’d Say, if it’s not broke, don’t fix it. Just enjoy it.

[Erik Dalton]

OTOH, I've had many come in because the hoods were leaking... and I've had pens come back that were played with, and the owner couldn't get things lined up right. Some folks can handle mechanical things. Some folks have absolutely no mechanical skills, and mess up sharpening a #2 pencil. Maybe not that bad, but you get the point.

Ron, You bring up a something that has puzzled me for years. Lining up the nib, feed and hood. Do you have any system for setting the nib and feed so that the hood screws on and lands perfectly? For me it’s always been trial and error.

[Ron Z]

Trial and error really. There are too many variables - the alignment of the nib and feed in the collector, then the collector in the barrel or thread bushing, then the shell on the thread bushing. There is less friction when you screw the shell on after adding either thread sealant or shellac, so the shell will turn a little farther. I try to get the point of the shell to line up with the right edge of the nib when dry, which allows for that little bit more that the shell will move when your sealant is applied.

 

A word of advice - the fit should be a somewhat loose snug, not tight. Don't over tighten the hood, but rather let the shellac or the sealant do the work of holding the hood in place. Too tight and the hood may be difficult to remove, or you could induce stress cracks in the edge of the hood.

[pajaro]

Trial and error really. There are too many variables - the alignment of the nib and feed in the collector, then the collector in the barrel or thread bushing, then the shell on the thread bushing. There is less friction when you screw the shell on after adding either thread sealant or shellac, so the shell will turn a little farther. I try to get the point of the shell to line up with the right edge of the nib when dry, which allows for that little bit more that the shell will move when your sealant is applied.

 

A word of advice - the fit should be a somewhat loose snug, not tight. Don't over tighten the hood, but rather let the shellac or the sealant do the work of holding the hood in place. Too tight and the hood may be difficult to remove, or you could induce stress cracks in the edge of the hood.

There's good info there, and your thread sealant is no doubt the best solution -- secure enough. Lining up nib and hood point is exasperating, and a good reason to not disassemble 51s, especially for cleaning, fun or neophyte enthusiasm.

 

The ones that went together without sealant did not seep ink were chance occurrences. I would order some thread sealant if I ever wanted to take a 51 apart again. Lining up nib and hood -- tighten hood and nib moves a bit -- no thanks. Been there, got the t-shirt. Good to know that sealant helps. There needs to be a good reason to remove the hood, and not fun, cleaning or neophyte enthusiasm. For the latter, get a wrecker 51 and leave it apart as a reference.

[KBeezie]

No. Teflon tape makes a mess, and creates outward pressure on the threads of the shell, and it doesn't work especially well. You'd have to reapply it every time you opened the pen. Bees wax would be better. I hate cleaning Teflon tape out of the threads on pens.

My one and only experience with teflon tape was when a seller 'restored' an eversharp skyline cap using it to get the cap dome on, that was a horrible mess to deal with.

 

By the way do you have or know of a premade combination of something like pure beeswax mixed with liquid paraffin? (ie: seals and stays put, but still allows for some movement if mild force is applied without having to use heat to loosen).