Wing Sung 601A

[bob_hayden]

If the nibs in these really ARE NOS (they look it) I can second the warning that they do not seem to be made out of the usual nib materials and are easily sprung. I have never sprung one in normal use but trying to spread the tines on one that arrived XXXXXXXF did it.

[bob_hayden]

If you like the idea of a WS "Triumph" nib in a Parker-tribute body check out the much cheaper WS 9901.

[owlclaw]

I just received my 601A today. I'm impressed with the build quality, the nib is very smooth and I would classify it as a wet EF. Believe mine may a vacuum filler, since the nib section has a breather tube...

[MisterSheaffer]

Does anyone know if the nibs can be removed from the 601A? And if so how do you do it? I have one on the way in the mail.

[Helen350]

I have a couple of much older Chinese pens with that nib. Not partial to that nib at all!!!

[bob_hayden]

Are these NOS ersatz Sheaffer Triumph nibs from the 1990s? Those unscrew. Or at least they screwed ON. Getting them off is hit or miss, though my experience is with ones that have been on for 20+ years. It might be easier with a new pen.

 

Those nibs are controversial. I find that they are almost always scratchy and/or gritty though they can be smoothed out. I do not know what they are made of, but it is not like other nibs. They take a lot more effort to smooth, are quite stiff but not very springy -- if you do manage to bend one it may not spring back. Others report these to be wonderfully smooth right out of the box.

[Mech-for-i]

you just unscrew the nib from the section , note that the thread is on the section not the feed and its usually shellac sealed / glued so a bit of hot water bath is asked for. Take care when unscrewing or screwing in to not to strip the fine thread. The feed might or might not get in the way, just nudge it here and there sideways.

 

As for the nib , I do agree with the inconsistency ; I have quite a number of these ( vintage ones ) in my cache and other than the lesser known EF and Calligraphy / Fude variants ( which is always polished steel both ) there seems to be quite a wide difference between just the standard fine nib itself , some write dry, some write wet, some write almost EF, while some write more like FM. All of them tend to be more on the stiff side and need run in ( at least writing a full fill or two ) to get it into conditioned. Tuning is highly recommended but I have not find them to be less springy than say the same branded hooded nib of same vintage, but of course they were all made to write Chinese, and that language in fountain pen handwriting do not need any flex nor needing to press on the nib for line variation, in fact a nib that maintain its point when slightly ( and usually unintentionally ) pressed is considered a good virtue in a nib for Chinese day to day writing.

[MisterSheaffer]

you just unscrew the nib from the section , note that the thread is on the section not the feed and its usually shellac sealed / glued so a bit of hot water bath is asked for. Take care when unscrewing or screwing in to not to strip the fine thread. The feed might or might not get in the way, just nudge it here and there sideways.

 

As for the nib , I do agree with the inconsistency ; I have quite a number of these ( vintage ones ) in my cache and other than the lesser known EF and Calligraphy / Fude variants ( which is always polished steel both ) there seems to be quite a wide difference between just the standard fine nib itself , some write dry, some write wet, some write almost EF, while some write more like FM. All of them tend to be more on the stiff side and need run in ( at least writing a full fill or two ) to get it into conditioned. Tuning is highly recommended but I have not find them to be less springy than say the same branded hooded nib of same vintage, but of course they were all made to write Chinese, and that language in fountain pen handwriting do not need any flex nor needing to press on the nib for line variation, in fact a nib that maintain its point when slightly ( and usually unintentionally ) pressed is considered a good virtue in a nib for Chinese day to day writing.

Thanks for the reply! When you reinsert the nib do you need to reapply shellac again?

[Mech-for-i]

Thanks for the reply! When you reinsert the nib do you need to reapply shellac again?

 

Yes, but these days thick silicone paste do the job just fine too

[bob_hayden]

Is the grease/shellac to keep the nib on or to stop leaks of ink? I am curious. On most of mine the nib is stuck on with something but one was easily removed, the nib replaced, and then the original nib reinstalled -- all with no leaks or looseness as well as no grease or shellac.

[Mech-for-i]

Well I do think there is an intent to seal but the main purpose is still to keep the nib in place as so that it does not work loose by itself during use.

[MisterSheaffer]

I have a loose Sheaffer Lifetime Triumph nib. Any possibility of that being able to be swap into the WS 601A? Anyone try it?

[bob_hayden]

I have not tried it but would be concerned that the Sheaffer nibs would have a US thread and the Wing Sung metric. Be very gentle trying!-)

[sansenri]

Wing Sung 842 is a pen from the 90s

it has a similar nib, which (at least in my pen) leaks where it is attached to the section...

The one on this particular pen was also horrendously scratchy and had to be seriously cured with micromesh

I hope the new version has been improved

Edited January 27, 2019 by sansenri

[bob_hayden]

I think earlier in this thread it is said the 601a nibs are NOS of the nib on Wing Sungs from the 842 era. I too find these usually need a lot of work to write well. They do not usually leak, though. The nibs on these screw on and I have been told get sealed with a dab of shellac. Yours could be loose, or someone may have replaced the nib without the shellac.