Nib And Ink Combinations

[theunwittingphilosopher]

I wasn't sure which thread to start this in, but my question concerns the science behind why certain inks react a certain way inside certain fountain pens. For example, Montblanc Mystery Black comes out darker inside a Sheaffer Sagaris steel nib (Fine) and grey inside a Waterman 18k nib (also Fine). Aurora Black comes out a consistent dark black in a Parker Duofold 18k gold nib and a Waterman Carene 18k gold nib. From this all we can assume is that the chemicals in the ink react to the metal of the nib. But how exactly? And, is that all there is to factor in?

[Bo Bo Olson]

Each company makes it's pen to match it's very own ink.

 

Pelikan 4001 is the driest ink, so has a wetter writing feed and nib.

Waterman a narrower nib/dryer feed for it's wetter ink.

The idea from both was to meet in the middle.

 

Many use Pelikan pens in wetter inks and complain Pelikan writes wide....they don't mention what paper they use.....

Common copy paper makes all pens and inks write wider...don't shade either.

 

A dry ink can make a width difference, so can a slick paper. Using Pelikan 4110 on a good paper should make Pelikan pens write thinner.

(Of course if one started with the economical Japanese pens....all western pens 'write wide'.'Japanese nibs are designed to print a small Japanese script. Western nibs are designed for the larger flowing cursive.) My eyes are calibrated Western Mark 1, so to me Japanese nibs are narrow to the marking. Those with Mark 2, Japanese calibrated eyes, find western fat.

 

That will make a difference with the ink, if one F is actually an EF. The 'true'F will lay a fatter wetter line.

 

 

Once Waterman was considered a wet ink....but now many Noodler's users consider it a dry ink.

So some of the Noodler inks are very, very wet.....others are not so wet, in they shade.

 

Semi-flex nibs due to ease of tine spread and bend are wetter writers than regular flex. So to shade with semi-flex requires more luck in an ink and paper match than regular flex......if one is chasing shading inks.

 

There are two toned shading inks, that get the two tones by sitting on top of the paper while it dries. So you need good paper for shading inks.....90g laser as a minimum.

 

Herbin is a very good shading ink. Aurora black was for generations the darkest black ink, Pelikan 4001 second best. There are now black hole inks from Noodlers that are darker

If one uses a real narrow nib, and poor paper, Pelikan 4001 black can be gray....lots of folks are behind the learning curve with paper....so blamed the ink.

Better paper Pelikan 4001 black in a narrow nib works just fine. Down to western EF....or Japanese F................I don't know how it works in a XXF or Japanese EF nib........don't have any XXF nibs.

 

When using an ink in a pen not made by the maker, you are not at best match. Good matches work just fine. I have no problem with Herbin, but I'm looking for shading.

Actually I have no particular problems that I really notice....but perhaps I'm not as OCD as I once was.

 

Then do you want Sheen....good to better paper and a wider nib is a must.

One of course needs a couple supersaturated vivid....'boring' inks.

 

Do make a list of what inks dance well with what pens...in what width and flex....on what paper.

Do make that list..............do make that list.

Somewhere....I hope.............is the 'listed' two perfect matches I lucked into. :gaah:Somewhere.

I should really look, I've gotten in some top of the line slick paper....and could ...with out a lot of work.

Edited September 23, 2018 by Bo Bo Olson