Jump to content

Steel Vs Gold For A Lefty


Teach13

Recommended Posts

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm new and struggling to find it.

 

I keep reading conflicting articles. One will say that a steel nib is better for a lefty (me) because it doesn't flex so much. The next one will say that a steel nib is bad for a lefty because a lefty pushes rather than pulls, so gold is better. Then another article will say that with today's technology, there isn't THAT much of a difference between the two.

 

So...I'm coming to all of you. Well.....I guess I'm mainly coming to all of you LEFTIES. In your experience, what have you found?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 20
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Teach13

    4

  • Bo Bo Olson

    2

  • torstar

    2

  • BaronWulfraed

    2

I have not noticed a difference, the only hindrance was a left-footed oblique took some time to adjust to before I could find the sweet spot without have to think about it.

 

this lefty changes hand position so that i "pull or push or in-between" and I don't notice a diff, pulling occurs usually with the left-footed nib...

 

Most "lefty-built" things really aren't, right-handed scissors and tinsnips caused me some grief at times, but that's about it.

Edited by torstar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a "lefty" but I have to state that "lefty" is insufficient description. I've seen illustrations of holds running from mirror image of right-hand (if a right-hander aims the nib at the top left of the paper with pen body toward bottom right, the mirror would aim the nib top right, body bottom left) with corresponding paper angle adjustment, to nib aimed to the right (so ascender/descender strokes are perpendicular to the nib slit), to hooked-wrist with the nib aimed at the bottom right and body top left.

 

For the first hold, I would think the pen should behave almost normal (where normal is right-handed); especially if one's letters are upright or left slanting (vs right-hander upright or right slanting). The second hold -- unless one can write without resting the side of their hand or fingers on the paper, is going to need a very fast drying ink to avoid smearing. I can't comment on the third hold -- that seems so non-ergonomic to me...

 

As for nib stiffness... I don't have any pens with wet-noodles, only relatively modern nibs. For those, my gold nibs seem to be stiffer than the stamped steel nibs of near disposable (60s/70s Sheaffer "School" pen). It likely depends upon the various pen models -- a stainless steel Imperial 440 inlaid nib (circa 1972) is quite stiff, while I suspect the thin gold nibs on my Lamy Studio might have more give (I don't normally press down with pens -- even trying the so-called Flex nib on a Noodlers is uncomfortable for me; Stipula T-Flex titanium might have more flex, but not cheap).

 

Tip size may also contribute... At least in my experience -- a broad nib will glide on irregularities in the paper surface which might catch with a fine/extra-fine (and Japanese pens tend to run one level finer than the same marking on a European nib...)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some brands of gold nibs are stiffer then steel nibs, and some steel nibs are semi-flex. If you want gold and like harder nibs maybe Sailor or Platinum would be good choices. On Sailor the nibs are even marked as hard (H-F.H-M, etc).

 

Not left handed so can't help more then that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another who isn't a lefty here.

 

I write only to offer my general impressions. The steel nibs (modern) I have used versus a gold nib (1929 Lady Duofold) do not feel radically different in terms of feedback when the nib touches the page. As usual with fountain pens, I do not apply much pressure. That said, the gold nib does feel elastic, i.e. springy, i.e. it wants to give in and spread a bit. The steel nibs I have used do not have any tendency to adjust their shape whatsoever.

 

Image of the gold nib spreading here: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/337651-192930-lady-duofold-moderne-black-pearl/

 

That said, I would not expect that a left-handed person would have a different experience. What is more significant is how heavy you like your pens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, as a lefty, I have not found much of a difference. I guess it really depends on your writing style. I taught myself to be an underwriter so that I could write without smearing the ink, and it has worked well for me. My Falcon obviously has a flexible nib and I don't have too much trouble with it, it's just a tiny bit scratchier. A smooth nib will help, as scratchier ones might skip more because of pushing rather than pulling. Otherwise, you can make steel or gold work for you, I would say that it really doesn't matter all that much. You can find useful videos on Youtube about lefties using fountain pens, I recommend looking at some of those. Goulet Pens has a new series on lefties if you want to look into that.

Edited by WLSpec
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully you are an underwriter..............because if not....you do not want a wet bold line as in the bottom of the post.

 

A nails a nail, be it gold or steel.

 

IMO many have a gold semi-nail nib...that they don't know is a semi-nail...like a P-75, and think it is the gold that is 'softer' than the steel nail. It is, one is comparing two different flexes.

 

Depending on who made the nib and in what era.

 

Modern....a Pelikan 800 is a nail, and gold. The 400/600 are semi-nail gold nibbed pens.

The 200 is a nice springy regular flex nib...be it steel or gold plated steel.

 

I have both gold and steel vintage semi-flex nibs that are =....in all aspects. Osmia is a great example of that. Geha made a gold nib = to it's grand steel nib.

 

 

Many will argue gold is innately softer than steel....but the obverse can be stated that steel is innately springier. ...I don't see it anyway you want to look at it. Who made the nib and when.

 

There are many respectable posters here who prefer steel nibs over gold...and in modern pens.

 

I'd suggest not buying into the Gold nib myth.

 

The paper you use, the ink you use all effect the nib....spend the gold money on good to better paper...which is more important than the ink. A ream of good to better paper every three inks. You will have more out of spending your money on a steel nib than a gold one.

 

If you are just honest....yes...I want a bit of gold bling..............then go for the gold. Just don''t buy it thinking a gold nail is softer than a steel nail. It is not.

 

What do you want the nib to do?

How wide to you want it to be?

 

Nail is a manifold nib...rigid. 1X width even if you press hard. No tine spread.

Semi-nail if well mashed will spread it's tine out to 2X. (a softer feel than a nail)

Regular flex, when well mashed will spread it's tines out to 3X a light down stroke. Gives a nice comfortable springy ride. In F&M is good for shading inks.

Semi-flex takes half that pressure to reach 3X tine spread. Due to ease of tine spread is a wetter writer............often giving the 'wet bold line' often wished by noobies who shy way from B nibs.

 

A wet bold line can be had with a wider nib, a wetter ink on better paper. for underwriters.

 

A dry lefty ink is Pelikan 4001....a dry ink will give you a narrower line, good to better paper a narrower line........there are other very fast drying inks to be had too.

Do ask what quick drying inks are well liked by lefties

:) Invest your gold there. :P .

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Modern....a Pelikan 800 is a nail, and gold. The 400/600 are semi-nail gold nibbed pens.

The 200 is a nice springy regular flex nib...be it steel or gold plated steel.

 

Unfortunately (perhaps) I can neither affirm nor deny. Both may 200 and 205 came with 14K gold nibs. One of my 400s has an 18K nib, the other and the 600 are 14K. Don't have an 800. {Hmmm, is one mislabeled in my database -- what I have down as a 400 is the same size as my late period 600, and larger than the 400 white tortoise, which looks in size to be similar to the 200 but with a lot more trim).

 

Something else not mentioned yet: some steel nibs may not have "tipping" (iridium/osmium/etc. group). Especially not a calligraphy oriented nib.

 

Also not mentioned -- copper nibs as seen in older Osmiroid pens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LizEF, I've been watching a lot of vids lately, trying to learn, but I have come across those yet. I will definitely check them out.

 

I've been reading a lot from Goulet as well as watching their vids, but haven't checked out their lefty pieces. Will check those out too.

 

Thanks for helping me learn more, all!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not a big fan of the butter smooth fatter semi-nail 400 and 600 nibs.

 

I do like the '82-97 semi-vintage regular flex 400 or 600 &Celebry or 381 nibs. that are similar to the 200's nib in spring and 'flex'. They have a nice ride and a clean line............are @1/2 a width narrower...like the vintage semi-flex nibs.

 

Some left handers can handle the pull not push semi-flex nibs, others not. I would believe they are underwriters.

 

I'd talk to other lefties, to see if you are not an underwriter, if it would be advantageous to learn under writing. I do remember someone making that change and thought :thumbup:. Must have been a lot of work.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

people who are not lefties honestly have nothing to tell us....

 

i suppose there might be a right-hander who twists the nib clockwise to hit the page and pushes the nib along, but that's an awkward bending of the wrist

 

we are writing left to right and that's a predominantly advantageous way for non-lefties.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm surrounded by lefties and I frequently put a FP in their hands to try. With medium-and-smaller nibs, usually they favour steel nibs. With broad-and-larger nibs, it doesn't seem to matter much. I usually carry some 0.5mm Preppy's to give away to people that might like to try a FP, and left-handed folks seem to adore them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm surrounded by lefties and I frequently put a FP in their hands to try. With medium-and-smaller nibs, usually they favour steel nibs. With broad-and-larger nibs, it doesn't seem to matter much. I usually carry some 0.5mm Preppy's to give away to people that might like to try a FP, and left-handed folks seem to adore them.

 

That's good to know. Thank you. Just to keep my education going, which brand is known for consistently awesome steel nibs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's good to know. Thank you. Just to keep my education going, which brand is known for consistently awesome steel nibs?

I'm hesitant to answer that. Nibs can vary from pen to pen. And opinions vary a lot, all over the place. Diplomat is often praised for its steel nibs. For every person who (like me) claims that Kaweco makes great-writing pens, there's someone else to claim the opposite. I personally adore the steel nib of my Visconti van Gogh. Anyway, you can't go wrong with a Platinum Preppy (which has the exact same nib, feed and section of the more expensive Plaisir). I'd start there. A Kaweco Classic Sport could be the next rung on the ladder. Then, a Diplomat and finally perhaps a Visconti. TWSBI makes affordable and nicely designed pens which often have nice nibs (I really like my 1.1mm stub) but not infrequently people report quality issues. Bottom line: get three Preppy's, one in each nib size and see which one you like. Use that as a reference point for further improvement. "Does this pen write 20x as good as my $4 Preppy? No? Then why is it priced at $80?" :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, DutchGuy!! I know it's a to-each-his-own world, but you gave me exactly what I was looking for--some pens known for their steel quality. Basically--a more specific place to look. Thank you!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am left handed, and I usually over write. Firm steel or gold alloy nibs satisfy me most, and mainly fine or extra fine nibs. With some extra care and slow writing speed I have used broad or double broad nibs, even O3B left oblique tripple broad on a Pelikan M1000. Steel or gold firm nibs are more or less just good and firm. Depending on how much they were smoothed by the manufacturer, there are varying degrees of feedback, and I like some feedback as it helps keep the nib on track and not accidentally slipping and making stray marks. Gold or steel is less important than finding a nib of either material that gives you the right feel, combination of smoothness and feedback for control. Usually I just accept and enjoy the feel I find in the nib. I like the beauty of some gold two tone nibs. That is just the appearance, though. Flexible nibs I can get along with by using just the right light touch. You can overthink this.

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm mostly an overwriter but I sometimes work in Flourishing Hand (look it up - it's genius). None of my pens are oblique; mostly because I don't think it helps and I vary my hand position a lot. Since I'm a vintage user, all my nibs are gold except a customized Ahab (a genuinely ugly pen: in a strong light it's the color of fresh horse dung). There's not really any difference between the materials, but the most flexible nibs I have are 19th century gold nibs for dip pens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I underwrite.

I bought a bunch of Lamy z50 Medium nibs and practiced polishing them with various abrasives.

 

In comparison, the z50 is a basic nail, but once they've been polished up and worked to your angle of attack, they're really quite nice.

 

I'd suggest doing the same. It cost me about £50 all in all, but now I know what I like and I've learned that a stock steel nib after a little bit of effort and patience can be something worth using

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My comments apply only to left handed "hookers" - we hold the pen with the tail of the barrel pointing away from us and the nib pointing towards us and we push the tines into the paper as we write. We are a real challenge. First, the nib should be as stiff as possible. It can be either steel or gold. But unfortunately the stiffest nibs are often gold. Avoid very fine nibs and italics and stubs.

Here are pens I've used that are stiff and friendly to us. Sailor MF and M and B "H" or hard nibs. My favorite, I've owned 5. The standard size 1911 can be purchased from Japan for less than $100 on ebay.
Cross Century II with M gold nib. The nib is very short, which gives it great stiffness. After making it slightly Right Oblique, it is actually more pleasurable than my Sailors. If you hold a pen backwards as we do, you will see that a Right Oblique swings the tines around so that both contact the paper evenly. A Cross Apogee also has a small gold nib.
Aurora 88, Optima, Talantum. Very expensive, I've owned 2, one being the only Stub that worked perfectly out of the box for me.
Parker 51
Modern Parker Duofold - this nib actually feels soft but still is forgiving for lefty hookers.
I had a Bexley with steel German nib that I purchased B, had it ground to a M Right Oblique and it worked well.
I suppose I would start with a standard size Sailor or a Cross with the small nib, available in steel as well as gold or a Parker 51 Aeromatic from a reputable seller.
Hope this helps.

Pelikan 100; Parker Duofold; Sheaffer Balance; Eversharp Skyline; Aurora 88 Piston; Aurora 88 hooded; Kaweco Sport; Sailor Pro Gear

 

Eca de Queroiz: "Politicians and diapers should be changed frequently, and for the same reason."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33582
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26771
    5. jar
      jar
      26105
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...