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Please Help A Noob Find His First Pen


Teach13

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If you are inclined to take the leap, I agree with comments above that you cannot go much wrong with a Pro Gear.

I don't feel the threads on mine either, and I am very sensitive to such problem, I have avoided purchase of a few other pens due to sharp threads, but not in this case.

It's a very nice pen, not exceedingly big, perfect weight and balance, wonderful nib.

fpn_1537133658__p1160436-3.jpg

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Looking at my pens again, I can see where the grooves might be a problem on the Sailors if you have a habit of gripping your pen too tightly. Maybe. However, a properly adjusted Sailor only has to rest in your hand. No need to throttle it. It skates across the paper leaving a beautiful line with no pressure at all.

Well...I AM used to using a death grip. I know that is not needed with an FP, so I'll have to adjust. I have noticed my grip is a little lighter since getting my Parker and Waterman ballpoints--so that's a start.

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Okay...after some suggestions and more reading, I've updated my list. Please tell me what you guys think of these:

 

Sailor 1911s

Sailor Pro-Gear (NOT the slim...that seems too small, length-wise)

Platinum President

Platinum 3776 Century

 

If I was forced to narrow that list to two, I think it would be the Pro-Gear vs the Century. Thoughts?

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All of those pens you have on your list are great. You can't go wrong with any of them, though I am sure others will suggest more and different pens. There are many good choices.

 

You don't have to narrow your choices - best to try them out at a real store.

 

If I were you and I would not have access to a store, to just go with the Sailor 1911S.

 

Have you thought about nib width?

 

Erick

Using right now:

Visconti Voyager 30 "M" nib running Birmingham Streetcar

Jinhao 9019 "EF" nib running Birmingham Railroad Spike

Pelikan M1000 "F" nib running Birmingham Sugar Kelp

Sailor King of Pens "M" nib running Van Dieman's Heemskerch and Zeehaen

 

 

 

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langere: Because Japanese nibs are a little smaller (finer?) than European nibs, I was thinking somewhere in the medium-to-broad range.

 

From what I've read, the Pro-Gear sounds exactly like the 1911, only cheaper and a little smaller (length-wise). Yes?

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Okay...after some suggestions and more reading, I've updated my list. Please tell me what you guys think of these:

 

Sailor 1911s

Sailor Pro-Gear (NOT the slim...that seems too small, length-wise)

Platinum President

Platinum 3776 Century

 

If I was forced to narrow that list to two, I think it would be the Pro-Gear vs the Century. Thoughts?

 

 

Personally I don't like the pro gear, but the only difference between the pro gear slim and the 1911S is the body, the sections literally screw into each other's. So the 1911s will have the same issues. they're both designed to be used posted most of the time, which they're both good at.

 

One fun thing about sailor's offerings is that they really are interchangable. I have a 1911S with a 21k zoom (double-triple broad down to extra fine when held vertical) nib and I can screw its section into the skeleton junior, giving me a demonstrator 1911s. Sailor is definitely the most consistent quality of the three japanese brands, it's all but guaranteed your pen will be good out of the box, whereas with platinum and pilot it's about 95% (and 80-90% for every other high end pen maker outside of japan)

 

The sailor will set you back a little more money and doesn't have quite as good a cap seal (no pen made has as good a cap seal as platinum) but the nibs themselves, while smaller, are a LITTLE less toothy. platinum has the toothiest japanese nibs, sailor pens have a VERY distinct feel, it's like writing with a well sharpened HB pencil.

 

My recommendation would honestly be a platinum 3776 with a soft fine nib. get it on amazon for under $75 USD, versus the $150 MSRP (just don't forget to get a converter) the SF nib is lovely, semi-flexible, very fine (if you want a more medium line, there is a soft medium)

 

If you just can't be swayed from the sailor, and I would never blame you, I recommend the fine-medium nib. it's really a sweet, sweet writer. I only have a zoom nib in the 21k, but I have a steel FM sailor nib and I adore that thing.

Edited by Honeybadgers

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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Honeybadgers: Thank you!! That was great.

Sorry--noob here--what does "toothy" mean? I've seen that term applied to these pens, but I'm not 100 percent clear on what it is. Does it have to do with skipping?

To compare: The only fountain pen I have held in my hand is a 2015 Parker Sonnet. How "toothy" are those compared to the Platinums and/or Sailors?

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Sorry--noob here--what does "toothy" mean? I've seen that term applied to these pens, but I'm not 100 percent clear on what it is. Does it have to do with skipping?

 

 

 

I'll confess I'm interested in the definition used by others.

 

To me -- it tends to indicate how much the nib catches on the paper. Given the same paper, the really fine point nibs will grab more than a fat broad.Broader nibs float over the fibers in the paper, whereas a EF (especially Japanese) falls into the crevices between the fibers.Sharp italics may also catch, as they have very squared-off corners (I'm really tempted to take a fine-grit sheet to the corners of my Aurora's to see if I can round them just a touch).

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I'll confess I'm interested in the definition used by others.

 

IMO, if a nib is actually scratching, tearing, cutting paper, it's not toothy, it's scratchy (misaligned tines, burr, or some such). It needs to be fixed.

 

Toothy is more like texture. It still moves easily across the page, but you can feel it do so. I wouldn't call this resistance, though I suppose there's some amount of resistance involved. Nor would I call it vibration, but again, I'm not sure how else you would feel the difference were it not for something transmitting the texture to your finger tips as you move the pen. My Sailor and Platinum both have very different and very pleasant texture / toothiness to their nibs. I'm very glad I decided before getting them that I would go at least one converter fill before even thinking about smoothing them. I wouldn't dream of smoothing them now. Anymore, I recommend that unless your nib is actually scratching, give yourself a fill or three to get used to it before you decide you don't like it.

 

IMO, "toothy" is very definitely not "drag" - I have (had?) a nib that would drag in one specific stroke. The nib was smooth as can be, never tore or cut the paper, but when making that specific stroke, it was like hitting some sort of resistance on the page - it was very noticeable, like the paper suddenly got soft and slowed the nib. I never could figure out what caused it, but I wondered if the shape of the tipping could be doing it.

 

FWIW.

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fully agree that you cannot go much wrong on any of those four

 

it does come down to preferences

 

I do like my 3776, but contrary to opinion expressed above, I prefer the Pro gear, it does feel slightly more... "pro".

The Century Chartres is a lovely colour though...

(and the threading is really smooth)

 

fpn_1537208933__platinum_century_chartle

Edited by sansenri
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fully agree that you cannot go much wrong on any of those four

 

it does come down to preferences

 

I do like my 3776, but contrary to opinion expressed above, I prefer the Pro gear, it does feel slightly more... "pro".

The Century Chartres is a lovely colour though...

(and the threading is really smooth)

 

fpn_1537208933__platinum_century_chartle

 

That's gorgeous! I'm a sucker for blue. That photography is excellent as well.

Currently: Sailor Pro Gear Black/Rhodium M/F with Sailor Jentle Black; Sailor Pro Gear Yellow/Rhodium M/F with Diamine Sargasso Sea; Sailor Pro Gear Slim Sky Demonstrator/Rhodium M with Sailor Jentle Blue; Sailor Pro Gear Apres Ski M with Robert Oster Grey Seas; Sheaffer Touchdown Imperial VIII M with Diamine Asa Blue; Lamy AL-star Ocean Blue M with Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue; Lamy Safari Red F with Sheaffer Skrip Red for grading papers; Lamy Safari Neon Yellow F with Diamine Kelly Green; Esterbrook J Blue 9668 with Noodlers Ottoman Azure; Esterbrook J Red 9668 with Diamine Red Dragon; Esterbrook J Copper 2668 with Diamine Ancient Copper; Esterbrook J Gray 9668 with Robert Oster Stormy Seas; TWSBI Vac700R M with Robert Oster Grey Seas; Noodler's Ahab Clear Demonstrator M with Diamine Midnight; Kaweco Skyline Sport M with Diamine Grey; Faber-Castell Goldfaber 1221 HB and Tombow Mono HB

 

"Reading maketh a full man; conference a ready man; and writing an exact man." Francis Bacon, Of Studies

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So..."toothy" isn't necessarily a bad thing?

 

Also--I love that Chartres blue, but I've read that it's slightly transparent. I'm not huge into transparent pens--so I guess I'm asking, how "slightly" is slightly transparent with that pen?

 

One more: I've read differing reviews. Which is longer when unposted--1911s or Pro-Gear?

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So..."toothy" isn't necessarily a bad thing?

 

Also--I love that Chartres blue, but I've read that it's slightly transparent. I'm not huge into transparent pens--so I guess I'm asking, how "slightly" is slightly transparent with that pen?

 

No, toothy is not necessarily a bad thing - totally depends on what you prefer.

 

I also have a Chartres blue, with gold trim. To me, it's closer to translucent than transparent. If it were laying an arms-length away, you might not notice it was transparent unless you already knew (or had bright lights and a pale background). You see more shadows of what's inside (nib, converter) than the things themselves - without lighting shining through. I'd say above picture makes it look more transparent than it looks in real life (to me). FWIW.

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I don't have a 1911, so I can't answer your question on unposted length, but my Pro Gears are 3 5/8 inches (93mm) from the end to the front of the section and 4 1/2 inches (114mm) from the end to the point of the nib. Maybe someone with a 1911S can provide their dimensions to compare.

Currently: Sailor Pro Gear Black/Rhodium M/F with Sailor Jentle Black; Sailor Pro Gear Yellow/Rhodium M/F with Diamine Sargasso Sea; Sailor Pro Gear Slim Sky Demonstrator/Rhodium M with Sailor Jentle Blue; Sailor Pro Gear Apres Ski M with Robert Oster Grey Seas; Sheaffer Touchdown Imperial VIII M with Diamine Asa Blue; Lamy AL-star Ocean Blue M with Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue; Lamy Safari Red F with Sheaffer Skrip Red for grading papers; Lamy Safari Neon Yellow F with Diamine Kelly Green; Esterbrook J Blue 9668 with Noodlers Ottoman Azure; Esterbrook J Red 9668 with Diamine Red Dragon; Esterbrook J Copper 2668 with Diamine Ancient Copper; Esterbrook J Gray 9668 with Robert Oster Stormy Seas; TWSBI Vac700R M with Robert Oster Grey Seas; Noodler's Ahab Clear Demonstrator M with Diamine Midnight; Kaweco Skyline Sport M with Diamine Grey; Faber-Castell Goldfaber 1221 HB and Tombow Mono HB

 

"Reading maketh a full man; conference a ready man; and writing an exact man." Francis Bacon, Of Studies

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Okay. I have all the pens on your list as well as a number of the pens suggested.

 

 

The Parker Premier in its current incarnation is the most expensive, but mine is a superb, reliable pen. I have two Sonnets, early models, and have had no problems with either. I have an original Expert (very hard to find) and a modern one. Good pens, but nothing extraordinary. Haven't used my Hemisphere in decades. The Sailor s I have are great pens, but if you want to use cartridges, sailor carts are proprietary.

 

If I were to recommend a pen for someone who wants a good, reliably, well-made pen, I would say the Pelikan M215. The metal body gives it heft, the piston filler holds a good deal of ink, and Pelikans have an excellent reputation.

 

Another recommendation would be the TWSBI 700. It's a vacuum filler so ink capacity is large and mine is a great writer. And I have yet to find a Lamy pen that wasn't a great writer (said the man with 20 Lamys).

 

But one brand you need to consider seriously is Edison Pens. I have a production model, a Collier, and a bespoke Pearl. Gorgeous pens, superb craftsmanship, I wrote the bulk of a novel and two plays with these pens,which should give you an idea of how comfortable they are to use.

 

Enjoy the search!!

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Okay...after some suggestions and more reading, I've updated my list. Please tell me what you guys think of these:

 

Sailor 1911s

Sailor Pro-Gear (NOT the slim...that seems too small, length-wise)

Platinum President

Platinum 3776 Century

 

If I was forced to narrow that list to two, I think it would be the Pro-Gear vs the Century. Thoughts?

Great choices. I have a few pro gears. I like the 21 Kt nib.
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Thanks, all, for the clarification on colors, length, and suggestions. This has been very informative and helpful. You guys are the best!!

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[The Greek chorus enters again]

 

All of the suggestions above are great. Sailor has a reputation for excellent nibs. Why not start at the top? You will not have any problems with a Sailor right out of the box. Pro Gear and 1911 are basically different packages, but the same quality nibs.

 

Pelikan is always an option, but you don't want a piston filler. Same with TWSBI, though I would say that overall, the Pelikan is superior in construction. But again, a piston filler.

 

Edison is a great pen company and does superb pens, even the production line. But a very different animal than a Sailor. Edison pens are bigger overall and just have a different feel.

 

What I love about the Sailor is the precision with which one can write. I cannot think of another pen company that does it as well. I am using a Platinum Izumo right now that is a joy to write with, but has a very different feel from the Sailor.

 

This is fun, but I suggest you just go and buy a pen at this point. We are having fun giving you suggestions and I cannot fault them. However, at some point you need to decide. That's why you asked in the first place, right?

 

Erick

 

[off to stage left - gotta grade some quizzes for tomorrow's class.]

Using right now:

Visconti Voyager 30 "M" nib running Birmingham Streetcar

Jinhao 9019 "EF" nib running Birmingham Railroad Spike

Pelikan M1000 "F" nib running Birmingham Sugar Kelp

Sailor King of Pens "M" nib running Van Dieman's Heemskerch and Zeehaen

 

 

 

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This is fun, but I suggest you just go and buy a pen at this point. We are having fun giving you suggestions and I cannot fault them. However, at some point you need to decide. That's why you asked in the first place, right?

 

 

Yep--about that time. I took all suggestions seriously--I read up on every recommended pen, and even spent many additional hours diving more into pistons--but I think I'm definitely looking at a 3776 or one of the Sailors. Now that I have a better idea, it's time to go hunting!!

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