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Curious About Delike Alpha


Corona688

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I used my Delike alpha brass pen to pop a windshield at work last week when my glass breaker failed. Fountain pen helped save a woman's life.

 

I've destroyed literally every non-ballpoint I've ever used. My 717i's are holding up better than the Sheaffers, Watermans and Parkers I've used but they're still cracking under the pressure, bit by bit.

 

So this caught my attention. o_o

 

What else is there to know about it? Nib choices/quality? Dry/wet writer? Does it dry out between uses?

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It's a copy of homage to the Kaweco Sport Brass, just a little bit bigger, and (unlike the sport) able to hold a converter. If you don't want to have a 55g pen, consider the other pens in the Kaweco Sport line (either plastic or aluminum). They are generally regarded as extremely sturdy, well able to handle the stresses of living in a pants pocket, even if it's a tight-fitting pair.

 

YOu really need to learn to hold your pen close to slack. A tight grip becomes far less important when you use shoulder muscles to move the pen, instead of finger and wrist muscles, and you'll be able to write for longer periods of time, too. It's called arm writing, and if you're doing it properly, you don't need to move any muscles below your elbow to write. Check out this thread.

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Turns out the Alpha and Sport both use fragile plastic threads; reducing the strong metal cap & body to decoration. Disappointing.

 

Beginning to think I should just get a Sheaffer No Nonsense, but they're all old.

 

Are there any screw cap fountain pens that really are as durable as they look?

Edited by Corona688
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Turns out the Alpha and Sport both use fragile plastic threads; reducing the strong metal cap & body to decoration. Disappointing.

 

Beginning to think I should just get a Sheaffer No Nonsense, but they're all old.

 

Are there any screw cap fountain pens that really are as durable as they look?

 

Really? Which threads are we talking about, the ones inside the cap? I don't have either pen myself (only a plastic Sport).

 

My only metal screw-cap pen is a Lilliput; there's a steel version (as well as aluminium and brass), I'm pretty sure all the threads in the Lilliput are metal-on-metal except for the nib unit; I don't know how durable the pen actually is since it's quite thin, but it feels durable enough to survive normal use and abuse to me. If you want a clip you'll have to use a slip-on though, which won't be as reliable.

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I couldn't pull the feed and nib out for thorough cleaning. This I dislike. I have communicated with the Chinese Taobao seller and they said the feed and nib cannot be pulled out.

 

I tried using rubber tubing and it took tremendous force. Nturally, the fins on the underside of the feed suffer as they are not well made, or should I say not made for this amount of stress.

 

Also, this pen is rather heavy and can feel unbalanced (top-heavy) for some people.

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Turns out the Alpha and Sport both use fragile plastic threads; reducing the strong metal cap & body to decoration. Disappointing.

 

Beginning to think I should just get a Sheaffer No Nonsense, but they're all old.

 

Are there any screw cap fountain pens that really are as durable as they look?

Fragile in what way? Will capping and uncapping cause them to wear out in a lifetime?

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Really? Which threads are we talking about, the ones inside the cap?

Yes. I suspect this is done to avoid needing a separate seal, but creates a pretty obvious weak point.

Fragile in what way? Will capping and uncapping cause them to wear out in a lifetime?

They've been reported to come loose.
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I have a Kaweco AL Sport. All threads, including the ones inside the cap, are cut into the metal.

fpn_1375035941__postcard_swap.png * * * "Don't neglect to write me several times from different places when you may."
-- John Purdue (1863)

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That's good. Are the cartridges re-usable? Do they dry out?

Edited by Corona688
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Turns out the Alpha and Sport both use fragile plastic threads; reducing the strong metal cap & body to decoration. Disappointing.

 

Beginning to think I should just get a Sheaffer No Nonsense, but they're all old.

 

Are there any screw cap fountain pens that really are as durable as they look?

 

I have used the alpha to pop a window. The threads are tough as hell. It still threads smoothly.

 

Plastic can be very, very tough in load.

 

The reason they use plastic in this situation is that it creates a smoother threading experience, not because it's cheaper. You aren't torquing it like a wheel lug nut down to 70 ft-lbs.

 

You won't break an alpha. I guarantee it.

 

Nibs come in extra fine and fine and a lovely little bent nib that is a lot like an architect nib (EF downstroke, M cross stroke) The nib is also interchangable with a ton of different #5's. I have put an eversharp 14k manifold nib from a skyline into it and it fit like a dream.

 

I'll take a picture of my alpha tonight. I am a walking destruction test for these pens, and the alpha is paramedic-approved.

 

The kaweco feels like (bleep) in the hand, to me. that rounded bottom and extra centimeter of length are completely changing to the alpha. I also find the fit and finish on the alpha to be superior to the kaweco, honestly.

Edited by Honeybadgers

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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Being in the windshield business I would really like to see a laminated glass windshield popped with anything lol

 

We don't pop front windshields. We saw them out with a mean looking glass saw that chews through laminated glass like it were balsa wood

 

http://www.santiam.net/images/art-windshield-saw.jpg

 

I popped the driver's side door glass because the door was jammed shut, my glass breaker failed to load, and the patient was unconscious and did not appear to be breathing. Took the alpha in my gloved hand with the cap point facing out, put my palm on the back of the pen and slammed my arm into the weak corner of the window. I didn't care if the pen survived, that window needed to be open. Pen still caps and uncaps just fine.

Edited by Honeybadgers

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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  • 1 month later...

I was going to buy a brass Kaweco Sport to go in the ass pocket of my work trousers & then I saw the price. That & the fact it took a proprietory cartridge ruled the Sport out.

I bought the Delike Alpha. Initially the nib felt scratchy, but it has smoothed out. I still haven't filled off that inscription.

 

Can you swap he OEM nib for something else ? I just wondered.... It is a #5 nib?

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standard #5 nib. Also takes many #2 vintage nibs. I have a vintage 14k eversharp skyline manifold nib in mine now.

 

fpn_1537506213__20180920_220118.jpg

 

I also sanded off the lacquer and polished it up (the war & peace went with the lacquer, came off easily) and I then filed in a notch for the clip and added a couple drops of super glue before sliding the clip in place. It's now starting to develop a gorgeous brass patina.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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  • 2 weeks later...

The clip of mine is long-gone.

I know that EF nibs can be 'toothy'. The Delike nib is worse than my Platinum Preppy 02 in that respect. The Delike nib is wetter compared to the Bock EF I put in a Jinhao 500. For it still to be a rougher writing experience suggests it needs the micro-mesh.

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The EF nib of the Delike Alpha has no tip. Look at the image of the under-side of the nib.

The writing there on the paper is 10 point Arial to give an idea of size.

A Bock EF would be a superb replacement. I stuffed one in a Jinhao 500.

But for a work pen? The Delike has the #5 OEM Jinhao nib.

Unfortunately I can't do anything about the paper we have at work.....post-22433-0-63652700-1539345519_thumb.jpg

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I was going to buy a brass Kaweco Sport to go in the ass pocket of my work trousers & then I saw the price. That & the fact it took a proprietory cartridge ruled the Sport out.

 

The Kaweco Sport doesn't take a proprietary cartridge. It takes standard international cartridges.

Lined paper makes a prison of the page.

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The EF nib of the Delike Alpha has no tip. Look at the image of the under-side of the nib.

The writing there on the paper is 10 point Arial to give an idea of size.

A Bock EF would be a superb replacement. I stuffed one in a Jinhao 500.

But for a work pen? The Delike has the #5 OEM Jinhao nib.

Unfortunately I can't do anything about the paper we have at work.....attachicon.gif DSC00419.JPG

 

Lack of visible ball does not mean no dipping.

 

That nib has tipping.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just received my Delike Alpha and am considering my thoughts about it

 

The EF tip is definitely tipped, and does has a visible ball. It's just tiny (or 'extra fine') -- look closer!

 

Despite this it's a highly scratchy dry writer. Too bad. I'm hoping it'll improve with time or nib adjustment.

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Despite this it's a highly scratchy dry writer. Too bad.

I just tried writing with the Delike Alpha I have here, with a brass barrel and an EF nib, and I don't find it scratchy or dry. It certainly offers feedback when writing – which I actually like – but no more than most Sailor and Platinum nibs I have used. The EF nib on my Sailor 11-0073 desk pen (which is essentially a HiAce Neo with a different barrel and cap) is scratchier, in spite of being wetter than the EF nib on the Delike Alpha. The EF nib on my Platinum DP-1000AN desk pen is much drier. The 'wetness' of the nib on the Delike Alpha is halfway between those two.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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