Willing To Give A Fountain Pen Another Shot

[Sailor Kenshin]

I did end up pulling the trigger on a Metro. However, looking at the Singularity, it looks like it has the same tiny grip area that the Metro has. But that has me curious about grips in general...

 

Looking at more expensive pens like the MB Meisterstuck Classique, that looks to have a slightly longer length of grip space. However, there is threading that borders the grip rather than a pronounced lip. So I'm curious if all fountain pens have the same general grip sizing but threading may extend the space a bit?

 

Now pens like the Safari and others that have angled grips appear to be different animals entirely. So I'm only speaking specifically about the ones that look as the Metro, Singularity, Meisterstuck Classique, etc....do.

 

I'm super excited to get my Metro! I really hope I end up enjoying it so I can start graduating to a nicer pen or maybe even a collection.

 

Thanks!

Fountain pen section thickness varies a lot according to make and model. There are fat pens and skinny ones, and the Nemo might be somewhat thicker than the Met, but I don't have access to them at the moment.

 

The Nemo IS a very understated, professional-looking pen, and it comes in an enormous variety of colors and nibs, from extra-fine to a couple of italics. They tend to write dry. (So does the Met, a little).

 

The Preppy/Plaisir section is smooth, and probably longer. These are snap-cap like the Met, rather than threaded like the Nemo.

 

Can you make it to a pen show or club meeting? There, you'd be able to paw them over and see what fits your hand and style.

 

And ps, paper does make an enormous difference to the writing experience.

Edited August 8, 2018 by Sailor Kenshin

[Emt1581]

Fountain pen section thickness varies a lot according to make and model. There are fat pens and skinny ones, and the Nemo might be somewhat thicker than the Met, but I don't have access to them at the moment.

 

The Nemo IS a very understated, professional-looking pen, and it comes in an enormous variety of colors and nibs, from extra-fine to a couple of italics. They tend to write dry. (So does the Met, a little).

 

The Preppy/Plaisir section is smooth, and probably longer. These are snap-cap like the Met, rather than threaded like the Nemo.

 

Can you make it to a pen show or club meeting? There, you'd be able to paw them over and see what fits your hand and style.

 

And ps, paper does make an enormous difference to the writing experience.

 

Thanks for the info. I live in Eastern PA, and I'm thinking that, unless I want to drive an hour to Philly...pen shows/clubs probably aren't a thing in my AO.

 

As for paper, what is the difference in the experience?....AND...will all of the great ones feed/print reliably through a printer?

 

Thanks!

[Sailor Kenshin]

Thanks for the info. I live in Eastern PA, and I'm thinking that, unless I want to drive an hour to Philly...pen shows/clubs probably aren't a thing in my AO.

 

As for paper, what is the difference in the experience?....AND...will all of the great ones feed/print reliably through a printer?

 

Thanks!

I don't have a lot of experience printer-feeding good paper (HP 32-lb. as an example), but I know pen pals have done that to create a custom dot grid for writing. Other 'good' papers like Rhodia and Clairefontaine probably don't come in the standard 8.5x11 format. And they'll cost a LOT more than Regular Ol' Office Copy Paper. Bad paper can be like trying to write on a paper towel. Good paper (and I count everyday pre-1980s vintage) makes the pen SING. And you find yourself wanting to use it more and more.

 

Aww...too bad about pen shows/clubs. Unless you have a pen shop nearby, and they're becoming scarce. There's nothing like seeing and helfting a pen in real life.

 

There might be something on the Goulet site comparing section with but maybe not length. In any case good luck!

Edited August 8, 2018 by Sailor Kenshin

[Emt1581]

I don't have a lot of experience printer-feeding good paper (HP 32-lb. as an example), but I know pen pals have done that to create a custom dot grid for writing. Other 'good' papers like Rhodia and Clairefontaine probably don't come in the standard 8.5x11 format. And they'll cost a LOT more than Regular Ol' Office Copy Paper. Bad paper can be like trying to write on a paper towel. Good paper (and I count everyday pre-1980s vintage) makes the pen SING. And you find yourself wanting to use it more and more.

 

Aww...too bad about pen shows/clubs. Unless you have a pen shop nearby, and they're becoming scarce. There's nothing like seeing and helfting a pen in real life.

 

There might be something on the Goulet site comparing section with but maybe not length. In any case good luck!

 

I was actually at King Of Prussia mall this weekend and visited Montblanc. However, that was specifically to look at the Starwalker ballpoint before the fountain pen bug bit after getting home from the trip.

 

As I said earlier, the big reason I want to give them another shot...other than how much I enjoyed actually writing with them, is to appear more polished/cultured especially at meetings or during sessions with my clients (sex therapist). I know people have said that MB ballpoints are really no different than a bic, but fountain pens seem to be different and more highly regarded. Again, I don't want to get ahead of myself...we'll see how the Metro goes!!

 

EDIT- On the dot grid...I noticed that when fountain pen reviewers would write. I'll have to search around as to the purpose of these dots and how they differ from lines. However, thanks for confirming it wasn't just an odd coincidence that everyone seems to use it.

 

EDIT2- Seems it's for people that like to draw and write on the same page. Not something I'll need.

 

Thanks!

Edited August 8, 2018 by Emt1581

[Bo Bo Olson]

In classic times, for decades Aurora black was rated best, with Pelikan black as second.

When I got back into fountain pens a decade ago, Pelikan black was the second bottle I bought. In I had no need for black and a world of 'living' color opened up....I still have half a bottle of that. There is a bottle of Pelikan Edelstine Onyx that that is well liked....a bit more lubricated than 4001.

 

However about 5-6 years ago, Noodlers took over the world of black hole inks....they also have Warden Inks, that can't be erased. Have a lot of waterproof inks too.

 

Personally some day, I'll buy a bottle of Aurora, just to say I have it. Not that I need it, with still half a ten year old bottle of Pelikan.

 

 

You can probably get away with a good blue black ink.....which turns darker by the next day....as all good blue blacks do.................smuggle in some 4001 Blue Black.....admire all over the world, and is dry....somewhat water proof. Waterman is a good blue-black also. Just order the bottle from Germany. If you order a couple other inks....it should slide through customs. It is legal in the rest of the world. Lamy Blue Black is nice too but I don't think it has even the touch of iron gall that Pelikan still has.

 

I like ESSR which turns from blue to black as you watch.....well on some papers it can take a day or two.....It is a register ink, is IG, so great for any document you write. English ink, comes in a huge 110ml bottle. Should cost in or under 10 pounds was a few years ago under 10Euro.....quick good service.

There is perhaps the longest thread ever written her on the com....over 40 pages, just on that ink. I call it sneaky, Sandy1 our ink guru, calls it mischievous. Is rated better than Diamine Register ink.

Well worth going out of your way for.

[Emt1581]

In classic times, for decades Aurora black was rated best, with Pelikan black as second.

When I got back into fountain pens a decade ago, Pelikan black was the second bottle I bought. In I had no need for black and a world of 'living' color opened up....I still have half a bottle of that. There is a bottle of Pelikan Edelstine Onyx that that is well liked....a bit more lubricated than 4001.

 

However about 5-6 years ago, Noodlers took over the world of black hole inks....they also have Warden Inks, that can't be erased. Have a lot of waterproof inks too.

 

Personally some day, I'll buy a bottle of Aurora, just to say I have it. Not that I need it, with still half a ten year old bottle of Pelikan.

 

 

You can probably get away with a good blue black ink.....which turns darker by the next day....as all good blue blacks do.................smuggle in some 4001 Blue Black.....admire all over the world, and is dry....somewhat water proof. Waterman is a good blue-black also. Just order the bottle from Germany. If you order a couple other inks....it should slide through customs. It is legal in the rest of the world. Lamy Blue Black is nice too but I don't think it has even the touch of iron gall that Pelikan still has.

 

I like ESSR which turns from blue to black as you watch.....well on some papers it can take a day or two.....It is a register ink, is IG, so great for any document you write. English ink, comes in a huge 110ml bottle. Should cost in or under 10 pounds was a few years ago under 10Euro.....quick good service.

There is perhaps the longest thread ever written her on the com....over 40 pages, just on that ink. I call it sneaky, Sandy1 our ink guru, calls it mischievous. Is rated better than Diamine Register ink.

Well worth going out of your way for.

 

Wait...where did legality come into play for buying ink?? Is it made from whale fat or something that the US import bans??

 

Certainly a lot to know and it's reinforcing the need that this forum serves, not only to communicate, but to learn/be informed.

 

Thanks

[Emt1581]

 

Wait...where did legality come into play for buying ink?? Is it made from whale fat or something that the US import bans??

 

Certainly a lot to know and it's reinforcing the need that this forum serves, not only to communicate, but to learn/be informed.

 

Thanks

 

Anyone??

Thanks!

[penzel_washinkton]

In classic times, for decades Aurora black was rated best, with Pelikan black as second.

When I got back into fountain pens a decade ago, Pelikan black was the second bottle I bought. In I had no need for black and a world of 'living' color opened up....I still have half a bottle of that. There is a bottle of Pelikan Edelstine Onyx that that is well liked....a bit more lubricated than 4001.

 

However about 5-6 years ago, Noodlers took over the world of black hole inks....they also have Warden Inks, that can't be erased. Have a lot of waterproof inks too.

 

Personally some day, I'll buy a bottle of Aurora, just to say I have it. Not that I need it, with still half a ten year old bottle of Pelikan.

 

 

You can probably get away with a good blue black ink.....which turns darker by the next day....as all good blue blacks do.................smuggle in some 4001 Blue Black.....admire all over the world, and is dry....somewhat water proof. Waterman is a good blue-black also. Just order the bottle from Germany. If you order a couple other inks....it should slide through customs. It is legal in the rest of the world. Lamy Blue Black is nice too but I don't think it has even the touch of iron gall that Pelikan still has.

 

I like ESSR which turns from blue to black as you watch.....well on some papers it can take a day or two.....It is a register ink, is IG, so great for any document you write. English ink, comes in a huge 110ml bottle. Should cost in or under 10 pounds was a few years ago under 10Euro.....quick good service.

There is perhaps the longest thread ever written her on the com....over 40 pages, just on that ink. I call it sneaky, Sandy1 our ink guru, calls it mischievous. Is rated better than Diamine Register ink.

Well worth going out of your way for.

 

I think these days many still regards the Aurora Black as the best black ink, however the price is quite steep in comparison to its competitors.

 

 

Anyone??

Thanks!

 

See this article if you are interested:

 

https://thepelikansperch.com/2016/04/20/pelikan-4001-blue-black-story/

[Emt1581]

 

I think these days many still regards the Aurora Black as the best black ink, however the price is quite steep in comparison to its competitors.

 

 

See this article if you are interested:

 

https://thepelikansperch.com/2016/04/20/pelikan-4001-blue-black-story/

 

Thank you for the link. That was very helpful. As for the Pelikan 4001 Blue Black....it seems pretty readily available and in the $12-$13 range in the US just from taking a look on ebay. But from what I read it seems it has the potential to harm the pen and/or require increased maintenance to prevent it from doing harm. While I can appreciate some here having passion for the hobby, I'm looking at this as more of an investment in myself than a passion for pens. If the Metro works out for me, I'll look to buy 1 or more fountain pens and maybe 1-2 bottles of ink just so I can do my case notes/evals. So I don't want to have to worry about an ink destroying my pen if I let it sit for a few weeks/months/years.

 

As a result, I'll probably look outside of the Pelikan for black ink. Some suggestions have already been given which I appreciate.

 

Thanks!!

Edited August 9, 2018 by Emt1581

[Bo Bo Olson]

It can cause cancer if you drink a swimming pool's worth weekly. It's still legal in the EU and the rest of the world.

But drinking wood aged bourbon, and writing with it, while sitting in the smoke of your BBQ, might just be too much.

Great link......Penzel Washinkton

 

I do remember, you are looking for a black or perhaps blue black ink right now. But we are living in The Golden Age of Ink.

 

For your fun at home. See if you can find some 90g or + laser paper. It is worth paying twice as much for a ream than for common 80g copy paper............I prefer not to waste the good stuff in my laser printer...........very old fashioned, don't want or need to color print. A ream of good quality scribbling paper should last you a year or three.

That 90g/+ laser paper will shade good shading inks. There are shading inks, some who, often noobies,who want a gel pen ink in a fountain pen, love the vivid boring supersaturated inks; wishy-washy or pastel.

I like the two tone shading, that is caused by the ink drying on top of the paper at different rates.

There are also sheen inks that have come in in the last 3-4 years.

Some inks do both. I'm behind the power curve with that. A couple of inks that were supposed to sheen, didn't for me.....perhaps I was unlucky. Had the good paper for that also.

 

My advice to enjoy your inks most is to buy a good to better paper every third bottle of ink. That way you will not be behind the power curve like me.

I have some 50 papers.....some are small lots.....and I still think of my self as a paper 'noobie'.

 

Good to better paper only costs two mechanically delivered cans of Coke, or two or three cups of Starbuck coffee, more than common copy paper.

 

100% or even 50% cotton paper is nice to write on, But, swallows shading. 25% rag/cotton is a very good paper.

 

Ink Jet is horrible paper for fountain pens, in it is designed to absorb ink rapidly, causes feathering with fountain pen ink. Combo laser and Ink Jet is a compromise. I unfortunately the last time I was in the States, was so enthused at finding some big name paper.....Southworth, bought a a pack of each some 9 papers.......wasn't until later I saw it was combo. It's adequate, but in the back of my mind is always....what am I missing because it's combo.

 

I live in Germany so don't know much about US paper. There are great paper in the States to be had. If they wern't so stupid with the inch and made A4 could compete with the world. Mohawk is a brand that comes to mine. Crane stopped making fountain pen paper, in proper coating costs bonus money and it is now only good for ball points.

There is some sort of good, cheap Brazilian sugarcane paper at Staples.....avoid the sugarcane paper made in Vietnam.

 

There are two paper sections to visit here on the com. I chase EU paper, living here.

As someone mentioned The Golden Age of Paper died in @ 1980....we still have some, but back in the day, cheap pad paper was so good. I found it forgotten, buried in my too good to use in a Juki Daisy wheel printer, bond paper. How was I to know it was a grand paper...I used ball points, so even a paper bag worked.

12 sheets of a common ball point pen pad....after all I was a Ball Point Barbarian, who wouldn't have dreamed of using beer money on paper. Why?

I have 8 sheets of that Perfect Paper left............ :crybaby:no watermark, so I can't track down who made it. Of my 50 papers that is most perfect.

For pure writing fun, track down some not made in ages, Eaton's Corrasable 25% rag, typewriter paper....it's only 16 LB....and as typewriter paper only coated on one side.........you could erase efficiently and retype over it....a then World Wonder paper........it bleeds like hell, but the front side is so impressive, who cares. Bleeding is not a problem to a typewriter.

It was the typing paper before White Out and cost a whopping $1.05 for 80 sheets.

I'd pay 20X that for a full 80 sheet pack today.

 

There are free templates to be had that can print dots on your paper or the regular narrow good for F or narrower Collage line. You can set it a tad wider and M will be great....a bit wider and B will no longer have closed e's.

Why let a paper line, restrict your nib width?

 

You could heavy dark print a couple of sheets of wider lines and place that behind the paper you are writing on, giving you the proper width for you nib..........and B can be bold and fun.

 

I did finally get some Clairefontaine Triomphe 90 and Rhodia in 90g (Rhodia also comes in 80g.) They were worth it. 50 sheets of each only cost 3 cocktails when you get down to it.

It's summer, salt the rim of an Old Fashion glass, ice cubes always go in first. Gordon's or Beefeater gin will do just fine, (Bombay Sapphire will do the trick too) then the normal gray tart grapefruit juice. Sip around the salt rim....a Salty Dog. In the summer one needs the salt.

 

Do not use the snifter gin, Monkey 47, it is much to floral to mix. 47 different herbs. So Odd, Germany makes the second best gin in the World....how the world changes....and American makes some of the finest of beers.

 

In spiral notebooks, I use 90g Clairefontaine Velout and Oxford Optic 90g....Oxford is same paper used in Red&Black notebooks. They are tied for quality. Both are very good, economical papers.

Perhaps someone in the States knows a Stateside paper those matches that for a spiral notebook.

 

 

 

The fountain pen pool is much deeper than it looks, but is fun.

There is no perfect nib, there is no perfect ink, there is no perfect paper.....there is how ever the rarely found perfect grail combination.

Do write it down in three places....when found.

I only wrote it down once....and misplaced the sheet of paper.

Edited August 9, 2018 by Bo Bo Olson

[Emt1581]

It can cause cancer if you drink a swimming pool's worth weekly. It's still legal in the EU and the rest of the world.

But drinking wood aged bourbon, and writing with it, while sitting in the smoke of your BBQ, might just be too much.

Great link......Penzel Washinkton

 

I do remember, you are looking for a black or perhaps blue black ink right now. But we are living in The Golden Age of Ink.

 

For your fun at home. See if you can find some 90g or + laser paper. It is worth paying twice as much for a ream than for common 80g copy paper............I prefer not to waste the good stuff in my laser printer...........very old fashioned, don't want or need to color print. A ream of good quality scribbling paper should last you a year or three.

That 90g/+ laser paper will shade good shading inks. There are shading inks, some who, often noobies,who want a gel pen ink in a fountain pen, love the vivid boring supersaturated inks; wishy-washy or pastel.

I like the two tone shading, that is caused by the ink drying on top of the paper at different rates.

There are also sheen inks that have come in in the last 3-4 years.

Some inks do both. I'm behind the power curve with that. A couple of inks that were supposed to sheen, didn't for me.....perhaps I was unlucky. Had the good paper for that also.

 

My advice to enjoy your inks most is to buy a good to better paper every third bottle of ink. That way you will not be behind the power curve like me.

I have some 50 papers.....some are small lots.....and I still think of my self as a paper 'noobie'.

 

Good to better paper only costs two mechanically delivered cans of Coke, or two or three cups of Starbuck coffee, more than common copy paper.

 

100% or even 50% cotton paper is nice to write on, But, swallows shading. 25% rag/cotton is a very good paper.

 

Ink Jet is horrible paper for fountain pens, in it is designed to absorb ink rapidly, causes feathering with fountain pen ink. Combo laser and Ink Jet is a compromise. I unfortunately the last time I was in the States, was so enthused at finding some big name paper.....Southworth, bought a a pack of each some 9 papers.......wasn't until later I saw it was combo. It's adequate, but in the back of my mind is always....what am I missing because it's combo.

 

I live in Germany so don't know much about US paper. There are great paper in the States to be had. If they wern't so stupid with the inch and made A4 could compete with the world. Mohawk is a brand that comes to mine. Crane stopped making fountain pen paper, in proper coating costs bonus money and it is now only good for ball points.

There is some sort of good, cheap Brazilian sugarcane paper at Staples.....avoid the sugarcane paper made in Vietnam.

 

There are two paper sections to visit here on the com. I chase EU paper, living here.

As someone mentioned The Golden Age of Paper died in @ 1980....we still have some, but back in the day, cheap pad paper was so good. I found it forgotten, buried in my too good to use in a Juki Daisy wheel printer, bond paper. How was I to know it was a grand paper...I used ball points, so even a paper bag worked.

12 sheets of a common ball point pen pad....after all I was a Ball Point Barbarian, who wouldn't have dreamed of using beer money on paper. Why?

I have 8 sheets of that Perfect Paper left............ :crybaby:no watermark, so I can't track down who made it. Of my 50 papers that is most perfect.

For pure writing fun, track down some not made in ages, Eaton's Corrasable 25% rag, typewriter paper....it's only 16 LB....and as typewriter paper only coated on one side.........you could erase efficiently and retype over it....a then World Wonder paper........it bleeds like hell, but the front side is so impressive, who cares. Bleeding is not a problem to a typewriter.

It was the typing paper before White Out and cost a whopping $1.05 for 80 sheets.

I'd pay 20X that for a full 80 sheet pack today.

 

There are free templates to be had that can print dots on your paper or the regular narrow good for F or narrower Collage line. You can set it a tad wider and M will be great....a bit wider and B will no longer have closed e's.

Why let a paper line, restrict your nib width?

 

You could heavy dark print a couple of sheets of wider lines and place that behind the paper you are writing on, giving you the proper width for you nib..........and B can be bold and fun.

 

I did finally get some Clairefontaine Triomphe 90 and Rhodia in 90g (Rhodia also comes in 80g.) They were worth it. 50 sheets of each only cost 3 cocktails when you get down to it.

It's summer, salt the rim of an Old Fashion glass, ice cubes always go in first. Gordon's or Beefeater gin will do just fine, (Bombay Sapphire will do the trick too) then the normal gray tart grapefruit juice. Sip around the salt rim....a Salty Dog. In the summer one needs the salt.

 

Do not use the snifter gin, Monkey 47, it is much to floral to mix. 47 different herbs. So Odd, Germany makes the second best gin in the World....how the world changes....and American makes some of the finest of beers.

 

In spiral notebooks, I use 90g Clairefontaine Velout and Oxford Optic 90g....Oxford is same paper used in Red&Black notebooks. They are tied for quality. Both are very good, economical papers.

Perhaps someone in the States knows a Stateside paper those matches that for a spiral notebook.

 

 

 

The fountain pen pool is much deeper than it looks, but is fun.

There is no perfect nib, there is no perfect ink, there is no perfect paper.....there is how ever the rarely found perfect grail combination.

Do write it down in three places....when found.

I only wrote it down once....and misplaced the sheet of paper.

 

WOW!! LOTS of info there! I appreciate the time that must have taken to write. However, as I mentioned in my last post, I'm not a drawer or a writer/poet. I'm someone that has to do case notes and evals for my job and that is my ONLY need for a fountain pen as it does not make my hand cramp up at all because I don't need to carve into the paper like with a ballpoint.

 

Since I have my own practice I can buy whatever pens (within reason....hundreds are fine but I'm not blowing $10k+ on a pen), paper, and ink I want. I just need to find the optimal combination so I can 1) write well 2) not smear it and 3) feed it through my copier to make templates of notes/evals I can then fill in.

 

If the Metro works out, I'm still not sure what black ink or paper I'd move on to. And no idea what the next step for a pen would be whether it's something in the $50-$100 range or $400-$500 range....but I can certainly see there's a wealth of knowledge here on the forum that can guide me through that.

 

Tausend Dank!!

Edited August 9, 2018 by Emt1581

[Arkanabar]

So you've pulled the trigger on your first fountain pen. I'd suggest using it for at least a few months before you buy another. I know that money isn't a real issue, but clutter may be. As you use it, ask yourself: What do you like about the Metro? What would you change? What do you think of its length, girth, grip section, weight, balance, nib, and ink flow? Make sure you have a good handle on all this, and then use what you've learned to inform your next purchase. I encourage people to rinse and repeat this process a few times, to make sure you know what you REALLY like, before buying a Pen of a Lifetime. (My first, btw, was a Pelikan M200, over 20 years ago. I still have and love that pen.)

The Lamy Safari has tons of fans, and It is so deeply embedded in the mind of US FP users as THE introductory pen that I've seen it on blister cards for $40 at my local Barnes and Noble.

I don't like the section. After about a half-page of writing, it starts to really bother me. You might not either. If you can try before you buy (e.g., purchase a Jinhao 599, with VERY similar dimensions for under $2), I recommend so doing.

The Pilot Metro has a well-deserved reputation as a tough, reliable, no-nonsense pen, even with the retro pop graphics. Like the Safari, it has a ton of fans.

I don't like it. I prefer a lighter weight pen, and a larger girth. And more than one person finds the sharp step between section and barrel annoying. The exact same feed and nib are also in the Pilot Kakuno (tho they do etch a smiley onto the Kakuno's nib), which has a larger, hexagonal section, and weighs as close to nothing as a fountain pen might. The Kakuno has no clip.

My recommendation is to pick up a Platinum Plaisir. Its section (including nib and feed) is interchangeable with that of the widely beloved Platinum Preppy. It's available in a bunch of glossy anodized aluminum finishes, making it lightweight and tough. And its section is much closer in size to the Kakuno. It has a snap cap (like the Metro and Safari), which will eventually get a bit loose. The fine (0.3mm) nib has definite feedback, perhaps edging into toothy, but I haven't had this issue with the 0.5mm nib. It's worth noting that Platinum labels these as F and M, while similarly sized nibs on e.g. a Pelikan or Lamy would likely be labeled as XF and F.

The Platinum converter is a bit expensive, and many say that if you don't use a tiny amount of pure silicone grease on the plunger, it's likely to break down in relatively short order. But the cartridge can be refilled with disposable pipettes as well as blunt syringes.

I like my Nemosine Singularity a little. The cap lip has crumbled just a bit, and the section can unscrew when you try to unscrew the cap (and this is why I do NOT suggest using this pen as an eyedropper). It fits my grip quite nicely, and writes as well as most entry-to-mid level international c/c pens.

ASA Pens has some ebonite eyedropper models that specifically have long grip sections, the idea being that this may help mitigate how Charles' Law can cause eyedropper fountain pens to burp. The Nemosine Singularity does have a significantly thicker section than the Pilot Metro. And until I learned to hold a pen in a nearly slack grip (I still use tripod, rather than Bo Bo's forefinger up grip), I had a hard time with tapered sections without any sort of stop, such as are seen on e.g. old Sheaffer Triumph nibs, various inlaid nibs, and hooded nibs like on the venerable Parker "51", because I'd inadvertently choke up on the point, until I was holding it like a ballpoint.

As for ink, every single ink is different. Noodler's Black is different from Noodler's other black inks, such as Borealis Black, Heart of Darkness, Dark Matter, and Texas Black Bat. They all behave a bit differently. The same goes for every other brand of ink. You can generalize (Pelikan inks tend to flow dry, and Robert Oster even more so, while Diamine and Waterman tend to flow more wet), but each ink is going to be necessarily at least a little bit different from all others, because they use different chemicals for the dyes. Given your needs, I recommend Pilot Blue-Black ink. It writes well on EVERYTHING, and dries pretty quickly, resists both water and fading quite well, and is more legible (IMO) than Pilot Blue. Pelikan 4001 Brilliant Black is a good alternative; IMX, it's both splash and fade resistant.

[Emt1581]

Just got home and the Metro had been delivered...it was actually delivered with a gift receipt from amazon...so I'm not sure how the seller arranged that from California. Does explain how I got it so fast though. The Amazon warehouse is only a mile from home.

 

This thing is leaps and bounds above the last POS I bought!! It's nice looking and feels great in the hand by comparison. I loaded up the ink cartridge, found a piece of junk mail and started writing. Works very well for me. No issues with angling, grip, smearing, etc. I've only written all of 2 sentences with it in the last 10 minutes but so far I'm very impressed!!

 

I have 4 sessions tonight so I'm going to try it out for notes. If I have any issues I have a cup filled with back-ups on my coffee table.

 

As for carry, I have it in my pocket, tip up....any reason pocket carry is a bad idea? I'm wearing black pants so I wouldn't be able to tell if it leaks until I pull it out. But does tip up or down matter?

 

 

EDIT: The fine tip writes thin but it's still thicker than a normal ball point. I've read people say Pilot's fine is thinner than most extra-fines but is there anything thinner if I need it in the future?

 

 

Thanks again for the help!!

Edited August 9, 2018 by Emt1581

[Sailor Kenshin]

Tip up, always. Pants pocket not such a good idea. Better in shirt pocket (where a pen case will come in handy), or briefcase.

[minddance]

Pilot Steel nibs when done well can be quite smooth, especially the medium nibs. The problem is that they can sometimes leave the factory a tad too dry for writing.

 

I can therefore appreciate your excitement with the Pilot Met though I have never owned one, because I dislike the grip.

[Honeybadgers]

Just got home and the Metro had been delivered...it was actually delivered with a gift receipt from amazon...so I'm not sure how the seller arranged that from California. Does explain how I got it so fast though. The Amazon warehouse is only a mile from home.

 

This thing is leaps and bounds above the last POS I bought!! It's nice looking and feels great in the hand by comparison. I loaded up the ink cartridge, found a piece of junk mail and started writing. Works very well for me. No issues with angling, grip, smearing, etc. I've only written all of 2 sentences with it in the last 10 minutes but so far I'm very impressed!!

 

I have 4 sessions tonight so I'm going to try it out for notes. If I have any issues I have a cup filled with back-ups on my coffee table.

 

As for carry, I have it in my pocket, tip up....any reason pocket carry is a bad idea? I'm wearing black pants so I wouldn't be able to tell if it leaks until I pull it out. But does tip up or down matter?

 

 

EDIT: The fine tip writes thin but it's still thicker than a normal ball point. I've read people say Pilot's fine is thinner than most extra-fines but is there anything thinner if I need it in the future?

 

 

Thanks again for the help!!

 

 

If you can find one, a pilot penmanship has a super extra fine nib and it swaps into that pen.

 

They are kind of discontinued, however.

 

If you want to go EF in the future, pick up a wing sung 698. It's a piston filler (bottled ink only), costs $15, is better made than the TWSBI ECO, and the nib also fits the pilot metro.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-Model-Wing-Sung-698-Transparent-Piston-Fountain-Pen-Extra-Fine-Nib/232700785098?hash=item362e0c31ca:g:64oAAOSwVC1Z2Od6

 

This seller is the guy to buy from. Bobby's shipping times are unbelievable.

 

Pants pocket will be fine, the snap on a metro is very firm. Nib up, always. And don't tap it or spin it with the cap on.

 

Finally, to remove the nib and feed, they pull straight out, but if they're kinda stuck in there, they can be twisted (there isn't a "slot" that the nib fits into)

 

And when you remove the feed to clean it (should be done every few months of regular use or whenever you put the pen away to store it long term) make sure you press the nib and feed in FIRMLY, harder than you think you need to. Otherwise, it'll be prone to dripping. It's the one little foible of that pen.

Edited August 9, 2018 by Honeybadgers

[penzel_washinkton]

Just got home and the Metro had been delivered...it was actually delivered with a gift receipt from amazon...so I'm not sure how the seller arranged that from California. Does explain how I got it so fast though. The Amazon warehouse is only a mile from home.

 

This thing is leaps and bounds above the last POS I bought!! It's nice looking and feels great in the hand by comparison. I loaded up the ink cartridge, found a piece of junk mail and started writing. Works very well for me. No issues with angling, grip, smearing, etc. I've only written all of 2 sentences with it in the last 10 minutes but so far I'm very impressed!!

 

I have 4 sessions tonight so I'm going to try it out for notes. If I have any issues I have a cup filled with back-ups on my coffee table.

 

As for carry, I have it in my pocket, tip up....any reason pocket carry is a bad idea? I'm wearing black pants so I wouldn't be able to tell if it leaks until I pull it out. But does tip up or down matter?

 

 

EDIT: The fine tip writes thin but it's still thicker than a normal ball point. I've read people say Pilot's fine is thinner than most extra-fines but is there anything thinner if I need it in the future?

 

 

Thanks again for the help!!

 

If the fine is thicker than a ballpoint then you must be using a 0.28/0.38 ballpoint tipping.

In that case, I think honeybadgers has given you one solution which is buy a Pilot Penmanship EF and swap the nib with the Metros.

 

In feebay I think there are sellers that sells the EF nib for WS 698, not sure if they are compatible with the Metros though.

 

Or you could try Platinum Preppy EF for different brand option

 

*Mind you there will be a consequence of more scratchiness if you go for a thinner line

Edited August 9, 2018 by penzel_washinkton

[Honeybadgers]

 

If the fine is thicker than a ballpoint then you must be using a 0.28/0.38 ballpoint tipping.

In that case, I think honeybadgers has given you one solution which is buy a Pilot Penmanship EF and swap the nib with the Metros.

 

In feebay I think there are sellers that sells the EF nib for WS 698, not sure if they are compatible with the Metros though.

 

Or you could try Platinum Preppy EF for different brand option

 

*Mind you there will be a consequence of more scratchiness if you go for a thinner line

 

100% confirm the swap on the 698 is completely compatible. I've swapped nibs between metros and 698's probably two dozen times (currently a plumix stub is in one of my 698's)

 

Later on down the road, there are some crazy great superfine nibs. The pilot e95S ha a 14k extra fine, the custom 74 and 91 can be had with extra fine, and I found a use for the platinum 3776 ultra extra fine (this thing lays down a line finer than a human hair) in my lab notebook.

 

Also, the fine will appear wider on cheaper paper than it will on good paper. this is because it soaks in and spreads out. So you can either go finer, get an ink that doesn't feather as much (Sailor jentle is kind of king here) or get some good notebooks like rhodia or mnemosyne.

Edited August 10, 2018 by Honeybadgers

[Arkanabar]

Ink choice is your next step in limiting feathering. Try PIlot Blue-Black, Pelikan 4001 Brilliant Black, Noodler's Black (dilute if it doesn't dry fast enough), Noodler's X-Feather, and at last resort, an iron-gall ink like Rohrer & Klinger Salix or Pelikan 4001 Blue-Black (two of the most benign IG inks available).

 

If you're only using one pen, and you use it a lot (say, fill it weekly or more often), these IG inks in particular should not require much in the way of extra maintenance.

[Emt1581]

Wanted to report back after 4 straight hours of sessions/notes.....I'M IN LOVE!!!

 

I definitely need to use it more as it was hit or miss penmanship-wise. Some looked way better than normal, other times it was sloppy and almost illegible. But at the end of the night, not a single drop of ink anywhere on my hands or anywhere else and my hand/arm wasn't sore/tired in the least! I was also wrong about the fine nib being thicker than the ballpoint...it's identical.

 

Any idea on how many pages this little ink cartridge is going to last? ....if it won't last at least 10 pages I need to pick an ink pronto!!

 

This thing feels wonderful and very solid. What exactly are the differences, whether it's in construction/materials, writing experience, etc....between this and, say, a $500 fountain pen?

 

Thanks!