Parker 51 Seriously Scratchy

[Flippy]

Hi everyone

 

I'm really confused by my Parker 51. I have flushed it, cleaned it, carefully inspected it, and even tried different angles, but it still writes like someone scraping their shoes on concrete. From my observation, it even writes better if I angle the nib on its side (which is kind of ridiculous.) I don't see a whole lot of iridium tipping on the nib, so maybe that is why.

 

I just wanted to ask is it normal for these pens to be scratchy or moderately toothy? It's not a problem if that is the case, and I don't mind toothy pens. I'm just wondering if it's something wrong with my 51 since I have heard rave reviews on the pen on how smooth it should be.

 

Here is a photo of the nib, and if you are wondering, it is a fine nib.

 

[FarmBoy]

There will not be a lot of tipping on a fine 51 nib. Likely needs a bit of attention. A 51 should be no toothier than any othe nib of a similar size.

[Glenn-SC]

My "51"s are neither scratchy or toothy and will write smoothly up to +/- 45 degrees of rotation.

[AL01]

I have seen "toothy" P51 nibs.

 

They were not made to be SUPER smooth; they were tuned for feedback.

 

BUT, if your nib seems misaligned, then it's quite tough to adjust the tines with the hood on.

 

I hope that helps...........................................................................................................................................................

[surprise123]

Take the hood off and look at it with a loupe. Follow SBRE's instructions on Youtube to align the tines. Being a stiff nib, this should be easier than trying to align a flex nib. Use a Parker 51 nib block if it's really bad, however those are hard to find and are expensive. I found it better to use a wooden dowel as a base and to bend the tines back and forth until you reach an optimum level of wetness and feedback.

[Flippy]

Take the hood off and look at it with a loupe. Follow SBRE's instructions on Youtube to align the tines. Being a stiff nib, this should be easier than trying to align a flex nib. Use a Parker 51 nib block if it's really bad, however those are hard to find and are expensive. I found it better to use a wooden dowel as a base and to bend the tines back and forth until you reach an optimum level of wetness and feedback.

I already inspected it and there is so far no problem with the tines and nib. They seem to be aligned perfectly.

[Flippy]

My "51"s are neither scratchy or toothy and will write smoothly up to +/- 45 degrees of rotation.

That is the case with mine, except mine is very toothy for whatever reason.

Edited August 5, 2018 by Flippy

[Flippy]

The pen is plenty wet, which confuses me as well.

[rochester21]

I have a p51 with no tipping(broke off) and i made it smooth by using some fine micromesh.

 

That being said, some nibs are indeed toothy, especially the fine ones. Micromesh doesn't always help. The reality is they vary in smoothness.

 

My best advice would be to try a few and buy/keep the best of the bunch. Pen show, maybe?

Edited August 5, 2018 by rochester21

[surprise123]

I heard about scratchiness from inside the tines, from a seminar on smoothing nibs. Apparently, you can have perfectly aligned tines and smooth tipping, but there could be the tiniest piece of iridium sticking out from the inside of the tines, causing scratchiness. I smoothed a Duofold once by running brass sheets through the tines, then micromeshing it. One way you can tell this is happening is to take a tissue and run the tines (no ink) over it in every direction lightly. If you pick up the nib and you see fibers of the tissue, there is a burr somewhere inside.

[Flounder]

From what you say - tines in perfect alignment, but *pronounced* scratchiness - I agree with surprise123, the very edge of the slit is sharp. Richard Binder's notes are very good for this sort of thing (section VI):

 

http://www.richardspens.com/pdf/workshop_notes.pdf

 

You can also find this pronounced scratchiness if the slit between the tines is no longer parallel due to someone disturbing the alignment while trying to change the flow characteristics. I find it takes better than a 10x loupe to check this, I need a 40x with good light, so do make sure the slit halving the tipping ball is parallel before you start polishing between the tines.

Edited August 5, 2018 by Flounder

[FLZapped]

Too bad you're not in the US. One trick is to rub the nib over the back side of a penny.

[FarmBoy]

Too bad you're not in the US. One trick is to rub the nib over the back side of a penny.

There is no merit to this approach.

[FarmBoy]

Take the hood off and look at it with a loupe. Follow SBRE's instructions on Youtube to align the tines. Being a stiff nib, this should be easier than trying to align a flex nib. Use a Parker 51 nib block if it's really bad, however those are hard to find and are expensive. I found it better to use a wooden dowel as a base and to bend the tines back and forth until you reach an optimum level of wetness and feedback.

What is a Parker 51 nib block?

 

I have not heard of this tool.

[surprise123]

What is a Parker 51 nib block?

 

I have not heard of this tool.

Basically used for the same purpose regular nib blocks did, was made of Lucite and looked like the feed.

[FarmBoy]

Take the hood off and look at it with a loupe. Follow SBRE's instructions on Youtube to align the tines. Being a stiff nib, this should be easier than trying to align a flex nib. Use a Parker 51 nib block if it's really bad, however those are hard to find and are expensive. I found it better to use a wooden dowel as a base and to bend the tines back and forth until you reach an optimum level of wetness and feedback.

 

 

What is a Parker 51 nib block?

 

I have not heard of this tool.

 

 

Basically used for the same purpose regular nib blocks did, was made of Lucite and looked like the feed.

 

Do you have a Parker tool number? The only tool that I can think of is #9632 which is a nib slit cleaning holder for 51 nibs.

 

Any reference to said 51 nib tool would be welcome.

[AL01]

That is the case with mine, except mine is very toothy for whatever reason.

 

Hmmmm.......

 

If you want to make the nib smoother, I guess you should send it to a professional.

 

I enjoyed the work of Mark Bacas, (NO AFFILIATION, JUST A SATISFIED CUSTOMER!)

 

I'm sorry, but I kinda ran out of options.

 

Hope that helps...

 

EDIT: I think smoothing should cost you around 22 - 25 bucks, (including shipping.)

Edited August 6, 2018 by AL01

[FLZapped]

There is no merit to this approach.

Other than it works

[pajaro]

Other than it works

 

Why does it work? Does it work with the back of a Wheat penny, or the back of a Lincoln Memorial penny or the back of one of the recent model or all of them?

Edited August 11, 2018 by pajaro

[ac12]

Are you comparing it to other pens with similar FINE nibs, on the same paper.

In my experience, a FINE nib is quite sensitive to the surface smoothness and quality of the paper, and can feel scratchy when a wider nib feels smooth.