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Oblique Pelikan Nibs


Steshi220

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Hi,

 

I'm relatively new to the fountain pen world. I have a 200 and an 800. Both nibs are in f. But I'm considering buying more nibs for different writing experiences. I would like to buy a Pelikan oblique nib for the 200, probably 400 size.

 

I did some researches and found out that the current 400 size nib has both 14c and 18c. Any huge difference there?

 

And where can I buy pelikan nibs? Factory-new oblique nibs?

 

Thanks a lot

 

Best,

Yishi

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That may be a treasure hunt. If I was looking for just a nib I would try asking Regina Martini at

https://www.martiniauctions.com

or Rolf Thiel at

http://www.missing-pen.com/site-in-english

 

Those are the first two that come to mind. I would mention Rick Propas but I thought that I had heard he was out of the parts business.

 

Fun nibs. Good luck!

"Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working." -Pablo Picasso


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The m400 size is the same as the m200 nib, it's just gold. Gold nibs for Pelikans in general are not cheep. For current production CultPens has been the cheapest I have found. I have gotten steel m2xx nibs for around $15 there as apposed to the around $50 they go for in the US. For an m800 nib you are looking a couple of hundred. If you are looking for more flexibility you need to be looking at vintage m400 nibs. If you just want an oblique nib you can have most any nib reground that way for about $40-$50. The cheapest again to play with that way would be the m200 nibs which are also more springy then current m400 nibs.

 

Sometimes vintage pelikan nibs come up for sale here at FPN. When dealing with vintage Pelikan nibs they tend to write finer then modern western nibs. I have a 1950's vintage Pelikan 400 with an OM nib that is a bit fine for me.

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Oblique nibs from the '50-65 era are semi-flex stubs and are great.

Obliques from other era's are not really worth the money....at all.

I have a few '50-65 obliques..... :notworthy1:

A '85-90 W.Germany 200 OM, where I had some slight hope, because the W.Germany nibs are a tad more springy regular flex than the '90-97 Germany ones. Not quite. Doesn't do the trick.

 

I've trans-mailed 200's regular flex oblique nibs to a pal in England.........no cigar. I was already spoiled.

Nor the 'pre-98 600 OBB nor my 1000OB that I picked up early this month. Nice but that's all............In I am very spoiled by any and all semi-flex oblique nibs of the '50-65-70 era. I have some 16.

 

Modern post '97 semi-nail 400/600 nibs are fatter and blobbier round bottomed nibs, than the '82-97 or '50-65 Pelikan nibs. So don't go there at all.

 

If you hunt on German Ebay.....you could get a 140/400/400nn from E-90-120.....as long as you don't press the Buy Now Idiot button.

Seller has to take paypal and mail to the states.

 

Go no more than 10% over your max.....that pen's twin will be there the next week or the week after. The Hunt, is half the fun. :)

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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You might have an easier time getting a custom grind on an existing nib than locating a standalone factory oblique. Not impossible to find but you'd be hard pressed to do so and would have to have a fair bit of patience.

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Thanks for all the help! I guess I will just save up and wait until I can make a final decision

the m800 f nib is nice tho so idk

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Bo Bo has zero experience with modern oblique nibs from Pelikan, so you can discard his opinion. I opened a thread where I demonstrated how modern Pelikan obliques write, cca. 2010 year.

 

They are out of production so expect to pay big bucks and when you buy from martini auctions, if it doesnt write, you get no cover, as they regard all sales final.

 

Good luck!

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Bo Bo has zero experience with modern oblique nibs from Pelikan, so you can discard his opinion. I opened a thread where I demonstrated how modern Pelikan obliques write, cca. 2010 year.

 

They are out of production so expect to pay big bucks and when you buy from martini auctions, if it doesnt write, you get no cover, as they regard all sales final.

 

Good luck!

You are right, my pre'97 600 OBB is not modern (nor my W.Germany OM 200).....however I do think my 1005 OBB is modern. Both are only regular flex......I wish the 1005 was semi-flex, then that would be an oblique worth chasing, after you stub it....

Oddly, I had great hopes for the modern Oblique regular flex 200's nibs I trans-mailed to a passed pal in England (in some fools in Germany refuse to mail outside of Germany); until I tried them. :crybaby:

Nope...no experience :lticaptd: :happyberet: .

I was spoiled, I had the real thing.

 

Stub + semi/maxi-flex + grind angle, makes great obliques. I have lucked out and have Vintage....30 degree grind obliques in OBBB; only in 30 degree. In a mix of semi&maxi both @15&30 degree have OBB, OB, OM & OF. Of course not all are Pelikan...have some 6 Pelikan obliques from that era only two are maxi-semi-flex and only one is a 30 degree grind...... the others are as good.

 

In modern there is some line variation.....but "not the real thing", of vintage '50-65 for Pelikan, @'70 for a few other brands of semi-flex obliques. ** A non oblique stub 605 of mine seems to give the same amount of line variation.........my Lamy CI gives more line variation.

 

Some folks are left handed, others are left eye dominant and a nail like in the modern 800, or modern semi-nail like the 400/600 or regular flex 200 do good for them with strong left eyes............a semi-flex 1000 can be stubbed into a great oblique.

Some left handers can not use semi/maxi-flex nibs so modern nail and semi-nail are good for them if they can twist the pen to get the nib into how ever they need to hold it....others can.

 

The fact that the OBB nibs of 'modern' cost so much is folks don't know better or fear old vintage pens falling apart or it's too much effort, won't chase '50-65 Pelikans or up to @'70 in other brands of real obliques.

 

Even in vintage OBB is rare, in it's a signature nib, not the writing nib of an OB. I have a couple semi-flex OBB's from Osmia......OK, one is a OB1/2 compared to the other......

Modern Obliques are but a whisper of what was normal in German vintage pens.

I do ignore the fact some are way too Ham Fisted to go vintage and know it...A nice 140 OB (1/2 thinner than modern so a writing nib) will cure Ham Fistedness in less than 3 months. Hell, I'd not even know I was Ham Fisted until I lucked into it.

I do suggest a semi-flex vintage OB as an Oblique starting pen, in the sweet spot is much wider and one can learn to cant the nib easier than the more precise positioning needed in OM&OF.

 

**My suggestion is to stub your modern obliques if you are too stubborn to chase the real thing.

 

If a nail, make it CI...my semi-vintage 18K Lamy Persona OB had no line variation; just a fat line :o ...now has permanent good CI line variation. ..........so having experience with nail obliques ....don't think a nail 800, will give better....a nail is a nail, be it a Lamy nail, or a Pelikan nail.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I have modern Pelikan obliques from OM to OBB, and they all offer good line variation without the need for flex :)

 

For me, given the assymetrical tipping, not having flex is preferable.

✒️ :happyberet:

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I have modern Pelikan obliques from OM to OBB, and they all offer good line variation without the need for flex :)

 

For me, given the assymetrical tipping, not having flex is preferable.

As someone who also has modern Pelikan obliques, I completely agree. And I absolutely agree regarding flex. You simply don’t flex a nib on the diagonal.

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I don't think so Gmax , that there is 'good' line variation...some yes, but nor much. More a whisper than the real thing. Have you ever tried a semi-flex pen to start with; much less a semi-flex oblique?

 

It is not semi-Flex, but semi-flex.....almost flex and still a long way from a superflex nib. The word flex in semi-flex should not scare anyone off. It's just a 3 X tine spread, but lots easier than mashing a regular flex to a max of 3X. Takes only half that pressure to max the nib to 3 X. So I can't really see semi-flex as a "Flex" nib..........it is no where near superflex.

 

It gives you that old fashioned fountain pen flair in a regular tipped semi-flex and a great pattern in semi-flex oblique. It helps a lot that both those nibs are stubs. Line variation is 'On Demand'.

And you don't have to do anything extra.....just write. No twisting fingers, arm or hanging on the chandelier. Don't even have to learn to draw letters like with a superflex.

 

 

Will admit have read here some folks, who used nail and semi-nail, have run into regular flex the first time and think it's semi-flex in tines actually bend and spread a bit. :unsure:

 

I did not find regular flex oblique to give an adequate pattern. Much less semi-nail or nail.

If one's expectations are low....be satisfied with modern.

I lucked into the real thing early.....and will not put up ...lesser....'a tad more line variation' than a straight nib as 'good'.

 

Many times I've done a walk through, translating the German into English, so one can look in past auctions, to see a real price of auction items.........in I don't believe in paying near twice as much for buy now. in Germany..............Stateside Buy Now, even 'regular' prices are a major rip off of German Vintage pens.

Many can be had on German Ebay for E90-$105, E100-$115, E 110 $130.....I do find the often priced E120 to be too high....$140.

 

 

Perhaps I could stub my W. Germany 200's OM and the other two regular flex OBB's to get more pattern....a suggestion that would give more pattern.

In I have superior nibs in semi&maxi-semi-flex OB & OBB, have no need.

 

And it's so easy to get vintage semi-flex oblique nibs on German Ebay. One don't have to be a fool, and push a buy now button. A bit of Hunting (& Hunting is fun ;) ) can get you a good semi-flex Oblique in a 140, 400, 400nn for E90-110-120. Paying more ......well it's your ink and paper money you are burning. Not mine.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I don't think so Gmax , that there is 'good' line variation...some yes, but nor much. More a whisper than the real thing. Have you ever tried a semi-flex pen to start with; much less a semi-flex oblique?

 

 

Well, I do think so, but I am flexible enough in my thinking to accept that others may have different preferences. See what I did there? ;)

 

I have several vintage flexible obliques, but I prefer the writing experience and the moderate line variation offered by modern non-flex obliques. Simple as that :)

✒️ :happyberet:

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Do you rotate your pens?

 

If you don't, or find the idea absurd....

 

.... Then buy an italic nib.

 

If you don't mind or do rotate your pens....

 

.... Then look for an oblique.

 

Vintage Pelikans BY DEFAULT come with stubby nibs.

 

Now finding an Oblique nib isn't as hard as ya think.....

 

Most vintage Pelikans on the Pirate Bay aren't in the best of shape.

 

But the ones on Classifieds are quite nice.

 

Just lurk around for a while, and you will find what you are looking for!

 

 

Enjoy!

 

- AL01.

 

BTW: Modern Pelikan special nibs are kinda expensive. Vintage ones are much cheaper... More economical for the student? (Moi?!)

Edited by AL01
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Just thought it was worth adding this:

 

Vintage oblique nibs DO offer some things that modern ones don't, even if you don't flex them. They are "softer" when writing normally and have a lovely spring to them that I really love. It feels more effortless. My favourite two nibs are a "script" (pre 1954) OM nib in a vintage 140 and another pre '54 OB in a black striped 400NN. I use both regularly (without intentional flex). They also tend to provide more natural line variation due to being more stub-like than the rounder modern nibs and provide fantastic shading with any shading ink. And you can often get the entire pen for the price of a modern nib - which brings its own benefits in the form of larger ink capacity, etc ;)

 

Of course, everyone has their own taste and preferences and may be in different places on their fountain pen journey / adventure, so the main thing is that you enjoy what you have. I do (after buying many pens), although I still find myself trying new things in case they suit me more...

Edited by Oobly
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I have many vintage and a few modern Pelikan oblique nibs. As well as a a custom ground oblique with added flex (on a 14k first gen m800 nib). In addition to the difference in what people term "flex", the tipping is different.

 

The modern obliques Pelikan nibs I have used, all have a much heavier, ball-like nib, compared to the much flatter, chisel shaped grind on the vintage oblique nibs tipping. I recall that this difference has been documented in other threads and sources, with excellent photos. The shape of a nib's tipping has a great deal to do with how it will write. A more flat, chisel-type tipping, in combination with the slight softness of the vintage nibs (which I would not characterize as flex) gives a very different writing quality than the modern nibs.

 

People who do not overrotate but are simply looking for a nib to give their writing a different look may well prefer the modern oblique nibs--they do not offer as much line variation but would be easier to write with, particularly for those who hold their pens normally (and may like to write with a heavier hand, coming from ballpoints). I understand there are some who value the W. Germany era M400 obliques over the vintage 50's 400's or the more modern ones, because they combine that heavier ball-tip with a little bit of softness.

 

To each his own, but just be aware that there is great variability between these eras--and of course, many vintage nibs have been worn out or abused or straightened (after damage). Ideally you would try out a nib or have a return privilege.

 

If you do try a vintage nib, please be cautious about resetting it or putting it in a modern collar and feed--and about overflexing it. These vintage oblique nibs were not designed to be used as aggressively as I see people doing today. Or to be jammed into smaller collars, as some of my acquaintances here have done. There are a limited number of these old nibs in existence, and if you are interesting in experimenting with vintage flex nibs perhaps it would be more responsible to stick with nibs that were designed to flex for copperplate script, rather than vintage Pelikan oblique nibs. It seems that every year there are more and more people who want to try the old nibs, but not quite so many available for reasonable prices.

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  • 2 months later...

I have a ductus i recently purchased (new vs used) with an oblique. Its a nice writer. Any way for my rookie eye to tell if its pelikans own grind vs an aftermarket?

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Just thought it was worth adding this:

 

Vintage oblique nibs DO offer some things that modern ones don't, even if you don't flex them. They are "softer" when writing normally and have a lovely spring to them that I really love. It feels more effortless. My favourite two nibs are a "script" (pre 1954) OM nib in a vintage 140 and another pre '54 OB in a black striped 400NN. I use both regularly (without intentional flex). They also tend to provide more natural line variation due to being more stub-like than the rounder modern nibs and provide fantastic shading with any shading ink. And you can often get the entire pen for the price of a modern nib - which brings its own benefits in the form of larger ink capacity, etc ;)

 

Of course, everyone has their own taste and preferences and may be in different places on their fountain pen journey / adventure, so the main thing is that you enjoy what you have. I do (after buying many pens), although I still find myself trying new things in case they suit me more...

Great post........I seldom 'flex' my semi or maxi-semi-flex nibs on purpose. Then only an occasional end of paragraph decender or a fancy decender, or cross a t a with a bit of will.

 

Of course there are times when I'm a bit heavier handed than 'normal' and the first letter or part of it is a bit fatter than the rest of the word. There is the letter e if on the end of the word that seems ...for me .... to go thin on the end of the line...........part of flair.

But that is part of the charm of semi-flex, one gets that old fashioned fountain pen flare with out doing anything at all.

A touch of flair is built in.........for fancy ....you got to work at it with semi-flex......less with maxi.

 

Very good post Stephenchin. :thumbup:

""""The shape of a nib's tipping has a great deal to do with how it will write. A more flat, chisel-type tipping, in combination with the slight softness of the vintage nibs (which I would not characterize as flex) gives a very different writing quality than the modern nibs....."

Of course semi-flex is not superflex, there's a world of difference in tine spread and ease. But many just refuse to differentiate....'flex is flex' :headsmack:...no matter what word is in front of it, semi or super...samo-samo right?) . I call the '50-65 era stubs, but I guess if I look hard enough I could see it as a bit chisely. Depends on which maker....Pelikan has better looking stubs (flatter perhaps more chisely) than Osmia...but there seems to be no difference to me in the pattern laid down.

 

"""I understand there are some who value the W. Germany era M400 obliques over the vintage 50's 400's or the more modern ones, because they combine that heavier ball-tip with a little bit of softness."""" I

I'm glad to know that. I did know they cost more.........if one was to get only one of the '82-97 era pens, I would suggest the W.German nib.

But I would have thought...until now, that it was more making a collection complete.

Stephen....you hang around with some good people. :thumbup:

 

I have W.Germany 200 OM, that is that slight tad more springy than the '90-97 pens. (I'd trans-mailed a W.Germany 800 with such a nice nib.) (The difference between the W.German and German 200 nibs are very minimal...both are nice springy regular flex. One has to have both to compare to see the W. German nib is the better one...because it is that slight tad more springy.

 

A nice passed well respected poster told me when I was wondering if I should chase a '82-90 W.German nib, not too, in I'd been spoiled by my 140 and 400nn (back when I was just learning to spend big bucks of E50(then 140 value)-70(what my 400nn cost) B)...on pens that now cost lots more.

I had had hopes of a bit more line variation with my W.Germany 200 OM, than I got.

 

I'd trans-mailed and so checked out the later '90-now oblique 200 nibs, that didn't impress........in I was spoiled by the vintage semi-flex obliques. There is at least for me If I Look Hard, :( a tad more line variation in the W.Germany nibbed pen than the later '90-97 Germany nibs.

(A heretical thought just passed my mind....how would that W.Germany nib perform if stubbed?" :headsmack: :wallbash: I just waved at that passing thought....in I do have enough vintage stubbed oblique pens, I'd not have to 'ruin' a nib of it's time.) Don't ruin a good nib doing that, when one could get a factory '50-65 stub on a nib easy enough.

 

I've taken to calling that 'heavier ball tip-(called kugel/ball in German,) the American Bump Under nibs :P ....in I have more German semi-flex era pens than American. The Pelikan 120 or mine has a slightly flattened version of the American nib (near NOS), and the Geha School pen FK nib has a full American Bump Under, like the later '82-97 Pelikan regular flex nibbed pens.

 

 

MHBru....if the nib has O something, it is a factory oblique. OB, OM, or OF.

If not after market, and if done by any body with a name is a selling point. Ie older pens done by Richard Binder...now retried, or by Pendelton Brown or any other of the many good nibmeisters.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Bo Bo Olsen.... factory job it is... OB on the nib. I never would have actively sought this nib out but it came on the pen... and its a great writing pen despite the lack of love it generally gets from the Pelikan community! :)

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