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Weight Of Practice Paper Above Guide Sheet?


DanielCoffey

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I intend to be working on my handwriting with guide sheets for spacing and slant and wondered if anyone has advice on what weight (gsm) of paper works well above a guide sheet?

 

At what point would you think the weight of the top sheet of paper would start to hide the markings on the guide sheet?

 

I know I could just print the guide markings on every page but I think it would be simpler to make up one guide sheet and slip it under the working page of my practice pad.

 

At the moment my current thinking is thin paper for the practice as it does not need to be retained for very long. I am not looking for a permanent record and it is for my own practice only. The current papers I am considering are Ryman 45gsm Bank Paper (£4 per 100) or Q-Connect 45gsm Bank Paper (£8 per 500 but harder to find) both of which are A4, plain, white, smooth and suitable for fountain pens. They are both cheap and commonly available in decent quantities.

 

What do you think?

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Not familiar with the papers you're using. If the paper is too thick to see the guide sheet, though, you might consider getting an inexpensive light box or light pad to work on. I have an ultra cheap one with one fluorescent bulb that I paid twenty bucks for a number of years ago -- while they're not that cheap any more mine has been a workhorse for tracing artwork and at one point a few years ago for painting on edible rice paper with thinned out paste food coloring (although you have to tape the entire sheet down so it doesn't buckle).

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

 

edited for typos

Edited by inkstainedruth

"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

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I know what you mean with lightboxes - I have seen the artist who draws the Simon's Cat videos using one. Hopefully I will be able to do what I need with the thin papers but the box will give me an alternative.

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45gsm is not a heavy paper, so your guide sheet should show through. I print up my own from templates found on the web, 5mm, 6mm and 7mm depending upon which nib I'm using. If I want/need the line to be heavier, I use a Pilot 0.5 or 0.7 rollerball and a ruler to make the lines darker.

Add lightness and simplicate.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well the Q-Connect Bank Paper did not work out well, sadly. Since the reviews of it on FPN back in 2013, it appears the makeup of the paper may have changed.

 

The words "10% Recycled Content" filled me with concern and it was appropriate. It spreads, feathers and bleeds, even with a fine nib. I actually got spotting on the second page in two places on just a few short lines.

 

I will do a review of the current batch of the paper and update the original thread. In the mean time I have ordered some Ryman 45gsm Bank Paper and 50gsm Layout Paper which is supposed to be translucent and "calligraphy friendly".

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  • 1 month later...

Paul Antonio, Scribe had given a pretty good answer and my preliminary tests show it works well and is affordable, particularly if found on sale. I was lucky to get a Michaels 2 for one week.

 

He suggests canson Marker paper, 9x12 in 18 Lbs. In semi-translucent white it works well with some caveats:

 

1. Do not expect it to be as clear as using a light table.

2. Guideline under the blank sheet MUST be full black to be clear through the paper and grey lines are not strong enough to show through, at least for my old eyes.

3. The cheaper grade contains 100 sheets while the more expensive grade is a smaller pack for more money and I have not tested it --

 

Ink bleed and feathering with Diamine and Noodlers so far are almost non-existant. They have not bled through on single layer ink work. Burp blobs might though some. The surface is smooth and easy for my pointed pens and XF .My Parallel Pen wides do not bleed through more than a slight shadow when I go over previously dried spots needing more intense fill.

 

Yes, tis is more expensive than my usual $1 bundles of Dollar General Indonesian lined 3 hole papers, but is much more satisfactory for clean, better formed practice figures.

 

If you have not watched the genius of Paul Antonio's You-Tube offerings (particularly as he has created a copperplate system and manual) give them a try. He does depend upon a person having some understanding of basic high school geometry for mastery of his thoughts, but his principles are easy to get.

 

And, as a lefty, I appreciate the fact he seems a patient person with a sense of humor and direction, not afraid to try new things, like the canson marker paper trick using its translucency.

Edited by Chmara
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Well the Q-Connect Bank Paper did not work out well, sadly. Since the reviews of it on FPN back in 2013, it appears the makeup of the paper may have changed.

 

 

Shame to hear about the Q-Connect Bank going downhill. I splashed out and got a ream shipped to Australia about three years ago, after reading lots of reviews, and love the paper. I've still got about half a ream left, but it's annoying to think I won't be able to replace it.

 

C'est la vie ...

Cheers,

Effrafax.

 

"It is a well known and much lamented fact that those people who most want to rule people are, ipso facto, those least suited to do it"

Douglas Adams ("The Hitch-Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy - The Original Radio Scripts").

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  • 2 weeks later...

I can second that the canson Marker paper, 9x12 in 18 Lbs. In semi-translucent white works well over guide sheets. I have tested it over Claire Fontaine french ruled, Rhoda dot grid, and photo copied italic guide sheets. My broad nib worked great. No bleed through.

 

I also found Paul Antonio’s videos to be excellent. The one on posture, chair and table height was especially helpful. I raised my chair height as he suggests so that my elbows just graze the table.

It seems to have improved my handwriting.

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