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The Crack That Just Won't Close...


tmenyc

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I'm confounded by a full-size Waterman 92 green/gold barrel with a crack that just won't close. Yes, it's a 92, the imprint could not be more clear. It's celluloid, isn't it? I've tried MEK, MEK slurry, THF, methylene chloride, and toluene, over the course of months. Nothing comes close to holding. the 1933 catalog says it's "made of unbreakable material". The pen is in wonderful condition other than this should be easily repairable crack. Forgive the dark photo.

What am I missing?

 

Thanks,

Tim

 

42225354344_869e6e0bdf.jpg

 

 

Tim

 timsvintagepens.com and @timsvintagepens

 

 

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Hey Tim,

 

Just noticing this post of yours. You probably have this covered, but I couldn't help but notice that you didn't mention using a c-clamp to close the crack after applying the MEK/celluloid slurry. I've found that allowing the repair to cure over several days in the clamp is essential to strengthening the bond (and something particularly important for thread cracks).

 

Is the crack not closing at all, or is it re-opening when you insert the section? In case of the latter, you might consider sanding down the mating surface of the section until it's a loose fit. Some sort of sealant (e.g. rosin-based) could be used to prevent it from rotating in the barrel when inserted – rosin is nice since it doesn't require much heat to loosen up for replacing the sac down the road.

 

If you've already addressed these matters, call us both confounded! I'm not aware of any differences in the composition of 92 celluloid that would make MEK less effective as a solvent, but perhaps one of our more seasoned experts will chime in with greater insight here...

aka popcod (FPGeeks)

 

WANTED: Vintage Pens with White Metal Trim! —> Sheaffer: OS Balance w/ reverse trim (grey/red vein) | Balance (grey/red fleck); Canadian Balance 5-30 (roseglow, green, ebonized pearl); First-Yr Crest (silver cap) | Waterman: Lady Patricia (clean persian) | Wahl-Eversharp: "half" Coronet (rhodium cap); Doric (Cathay); Skyline (SS/Sterling Cap) | Rebadged Parkers: Diamond Medal (grey pinstripe, marble stripe, etc.)

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W,

 

thanks! I don't use c-clamps but use double clothespins, with the round area holding the pen clamped and the second one over the first. It's really a mystery. I've held out the option of gluing barrel to section for the last possible option, but it's just weird. Let me know if you're coming to next week's BAPC meeting and I'll bring it.

 

Tim

Tim

 timsvintagepens.com and @timsvintagepens

 

 

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I'll be there! We can chat about it then, but I just noticed I wrote 'c-clamp' when I meant to write band clamp. :headsmack: If it's an old crack and the celluloid has shrunk over the years since it happened, it could be that the clothespins aren't applying enough pressure to close the crack fully and properly strengthen bond as it cures. The advantage of a band clamp is that it applies pressure evenly over the entire circumference (unlike a c-clamp!), preventing the sort of damage that might result from pressure concentrated on 2 points.

aka popcod (FPGeeks)

 

WANTED: Vintage Pens with White Metal Trim! —> Sheaffer: OS Balance w/ reverse trim (grey/red vein) | Balance (grey/red fleck); Canadian Balance 5-30 (roseglow, green, ebonized pearl); First-Yr Crest (silver cap) | Waterman: Lady Patricia (clean persian) | Wahl-Eversharp: "half" Coronet (rhodium cap); Doric (Cathay); Skyline (SS/Sterling Cap) | Rebadged Parkers: Diamond Medal (grey pinstripe, marble stripe, etc.)

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Tim,

 

I assume you mean the crack reopens when you insert the section or shortly thereafter. As said many times before, cracks through the threads are problematic due to continued stress post repair. After multiple attempts at welding, the material around the crack is most likely melted out of shape and perhaps mixed with enough cr@p that another weld may be impossible. At this time, the barrel is probably a lost cause for widely accepted amateur repair techniques. Since this is a relatively inexpensive pen with the value diminished further by the crack and discoloration, you can launch into more aggressive repairs that may yield a functional pen without much risk of loss.

 

By this, I mean:

1 Clean up and reweld the crack with MEK. Allow this to cure for several days.

2 Clean up the inside of the barrel to remove any small bumps along the crack that will impede the section.

3 Reduce the circumference of the back end of the section that inserts into the barrel (with sandpaper).

4 When the section easily slides into the barrel with just the tiniest bit of friction, glue the section in the barrel. Use shellac so in theory, you can get into the barrel in the future. Allow this to cure for several days as well.

5 After all this, clean up the threads on the barrel to properly engage the cap.

 

It won't be pretty, and if the plastic has shrunk a ton, may not hold, but this will give you a chance at a functional user.

 

John

so many pens, so little time.......

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John,

thanks, appreciated. I've known all along that a variety of "good enough to use" options have been available. This pen, however, has been consigned for restoration and sale, and I really want to find a solution to the crack before conceding that only a less attractive option is possible.

 

Tim

Tim

 timsvintagepens.com and @timsvintagepens

 

 

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