Round Nose Plier To Correct A Wave In Nib

[kdv]

Ls,

 

A question about using a round nose plier.

 

I make progress straitening nibs just with my hands / nails.

Now I’m at the point of using a round-nose plier like elsewhere suggested in this forum (may be later a nib block) for straitening a nib (of an omas paragon new style- rhodium plated).

 

The nib has a small wave just behind the nib-end (where the feeder stops).

Sending it to a local pen store resulted in some progress but not enough. Sending it to a real pro will cost me 45 – 65 Euro (min). A replacement nib 200 E ?

 

Considering these numbers and my ambition and (degree of) experience I want to try to fix it myself.

First by using a rounded nose plier as elsewhere suggested.

 

My question:

For trying to remove the wave I will have to approach the nib with the plier from the front.

But when closing the plier the front of the nib will contact the plier earlier than the parts behind (the front). So, the front will be damaged before the plier reaches the wave (just .5 cm behind the nib-tip).

So how do you use a plier in a situation like this? (if not: I’ll go for the option off the nib block).

 

(I know comments will follow suggesting sending my precious nib to a meister. That is rather a common reaction here. But a meister becomes only a meister doing things – well informed - the first time by himself. They all started as an amateur and their courage made them a prof. Not that it is my ambition to become a meister. But I like making progress in repairing as a part of my hobby. And I generally would like to see some more support for those who try to learn. I very well know my limits, will practise first on cheaper nibs, will consider a nib block, and stop when it is time to stop and then send it to a prof)

 

Greetings,

kdv

[praxim]

I make no comment either way on what you are attempting or whether I think you should.

 

You appear to say, use a round-nose plier and approach the nib from the front. These things are completely at odds with one another, unless I have misunderstood your plier description. I have bending pliers, which are entirely round, conical, in the noses. These are used from the side, aligned with the bend you wish to make or to remove. Flat pliers (better, a nib block) are used to flatten a bend. They also result in stretching of the metal in that situation.

 

To remove a dimple or bend with minimal distortion, work from the edge of the distortion curve toward the centre of it.

[kdv]

thanks praxim

 

I was referring to this thread where pliers where suggested as a tool for nib straithening:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/284034-nib-burnishing-how-to/

 

Sadly no picture of the plier was attached.

 

greetings

 

kdv

[praxim]

This is to what I am referring:

 

They need a clean-up. They are about fifty years old, Lindstrom brand, model 3930. My father bought them for a lapidary hobby (by profession he was an electrical engineer) and I pulled them out recently.

[fabri00]

 

My question:

For trying to remove the wave I will have to approach the nib with the plier from the front.

But when closing the plier the front of the nib will contact the plier earlier than the parts behind (the front). So, the front will be damaged before the plier reaches the wave (just .5 cm behind the nib-tip).

So how do you use a plier in a situation like this? (if not: I’ll go for the option off the nib block).

 

I do not think poker is the tool to be used in this case.

If you take the nib with pliers from the front you will damage the tipped point of it.

[kdv]

Ls,

 

Aaah, after re-reading I think I’m beginning to understand.

 

You don’t use the plier as a plier.

 

You just open it, lay it on the table, lay the nib on it and slide the nib into position (and then apply pressure on the wave with for example a wooden plug).

 

Just like a nib block.

 

Correct?

 

(stupid me).

 

Greetings kdv

 

 

[fabri00]

I do not think poker is the tool to be used in this case.

If you take the nib with pliers from the front you will damage the tipped point of it.

plier, sorry, no poker.

My tablet make mistakes writing in English .....

[CraigR]

My response is meant to encourage you in learning to perform your own repairs, whenever feasible and advisable. It has been my experience that it is best to start on pens, nibs, and parts that are somewhat sacrificial. I bought a number of very inexpensive pens that were in dire need of repair, often in batches, and then practiced on them. Yes, I was unsuccessful with a number of them, but I also learned a lot. So, while I applaud your desire and willingness to work on your nib, I also caution you to go slowly and carefully. There is a ton of knowledge on this forum as well on the internet in general. I have also seen several tutorial type videos on Youtube.

 

To me, one of the most rewarding aspects of this hobby is being able to perform basic repairs and nib work on your pens. Best wishes for your success and enjoyment!

[kdv]

Thanks CraigR:

 

….For your very kind and encouraging words.

 

“You hit the right string” as we say it in Dutch.

 

Live is not all about the money and not all about precious nibs. More common it’s (for me) more about challenges, learning and taking risks (hear me, if you should know……) and then the feeling off, well, something like euphoria after having taken succesfully a risk. Big words, anyway, in this case....

 

Fabri00 mentioned by accident the word poker But in a way he is right: it a kinnd off poker, a gamble.

 

But I will minimize the risks, practise on cheaper pens and will use a leather cloth first (with the plier) and scrub lightly as a more save start (as suggested elsewhere).

 

Greetings

kdv

[praxim]

Ls,

 

Aaah, after re-reading I think I’m beginning to understand.

 

You don’t use the plier as a plier.

 

You just open it, lay it on the table, lay the nib on it and slide the nib into position (and then apply pressure on the wave with for example a wooden plug).

 

Just like a nib block.

 

Correct?

 

No.

 

A nib block is a nib block. The different curvatures of the round nose plier are to give different radii at the point where you are bending something. If it served for a nib block then why the expense of handles?

 

I suggest further reading, and experiments on random bits of small flat metal before you even go near a nib.

[ac12]

I second the suggestion of getting cheap junkers to practice on first.

This is because, in the course of learning how to straighten a nib, you WILL damage/destroy nibs.

I would go through the "junker" box at pen shows to look for CHEAP pens to practice fixing. If you damage/destroy it, it does not matter, because it was CHEAP.

 

The closer to you get to the tipping, the more difficult it is to straighten the nib without damaging the nib.

If it is within 2mm of the tipping I will not even try. That is beyond my skill level.

 

This is the nib block that I use. Much more affordable than the $250+ metal nib blocks.

https://www.vintagepens.com/catill_nibs_parts.shtml

You still need to get burnishing tools, but that can be improvised. I've used butter knife handles and similar SMOOTH metal objects.

Learning to use a nib block takes a LOT of practice.

[kdv]

Ls,

 

Thanks for all your comments.

 

I practised on some “cheap” nibs and quickly found out that straightening a nib, especially when the wave is directly near the tipping (2mm) is very very difficult.

 

I can do a lot with nibs (aligning, spreading, smoothening, polishing etc.) but this is one (two) step to far.

 

I’ll send it to a pro. Anny suggestions for a “nibstraithener” near Holland are welcome.

 

Greetings

kdv

[FarmBoy]

Picture of nib would be of interest to some.