Questions Regarding An M1000 Purchase

[Honeybadgers]

I know my question is fairly basic, but I didn't want to derail another thread to ask it.

 

Are OB/OBB nibs still available for the m1000? I'm really getting close to pulling the trigger on one but Goulet told me they can only order me one in EF, F, M, and B.

 

Is the B on an M1000 just enormous? My only broads are a TWSBI steel B, a platinum 3776 B, a platinum 3776 C and a sailor 1911S 21k Zoom nib (this and the C are kind of my sweet spot in big honking nibs) I do really adore obliques though... And I've heard that pelikan obliques are very stubby, which I also love (my oblique stub esterbrook J is a favorite of mine)

 

The M1000 is just so gorgeous, and ticks all my boxes, piston filler, massive nib, striped celluloid... I have a visconti homo sapiens in EF that satisfies my desires for a big pen with a small nib.

 

I nearly pulled the trigger on an aurora with an OBBB recently, but for a C/C pen, that just seemed insane.

 

If I can't get an OB/OBB from the factory anymore, would I be paying a premium for a used one with that nib? Or would it be cheaper to just buy one with a B and have a nibmeister oblique/stub the one I buy?

Edited May 11, 2018 by Honeybadgers

[invisuu]

Fun nibs are discontinued. Martiniauctions and missing pen still sell some of the fun sizes, but at a premium, yea. M1000 nibs are truly huge, fat blobs. My M was more like a BB. Be warned.

[zaddick]

The oblique nibs have been gone for a while, even BB and 3B are long gone.

 

The nibs are very wet, so a B will write a fair bit wider than you would expect. If you like an OBB in most makers nibs, then get a B and have it made into an oblique.

 

You can occasionally find used pens with oblique nibs, but they usually go for a premium now.

[Mew]

Oblique and nibs broader than B are no longer available as standard issue. If you can visit the Pelikan factory, you can buy them over there. Online is not possible.

[Tseg]

A wide tip magic marker would provide the same look, feel and sound.

[Bo Bo Olson]

It is a semi-flex nib, so if heavy handed will write up to 3X a light down stroke.

 

If you are coming over from semi-nail, 400/600 or nail 800, the 1000, will spread it's tines very easily. It took me 3 months to lighten my hand, when I got my first semi-flex a 140.

 

Try Pelikan 4001 ink, a dry ink in Pelikan makes a wet nib to balance it's dry inks.

Like Waterman makes a drier nib for it's wetter inks.

 

Try a slick paper, Rhoda or Clairefontaine Triumphe.

 

If using common copy paper, all nibs are wider. If using a wet ink, and Noodlers is a very wet ink.

Once Waterman's inks were considered wet; then Noodlers came along, and I've read where Noodler users consider Waterman a dry ink.

 

And if you started with Japanese pens, all Euro pens will be fat.....just like I started with American and Euro nibs, and find Japanese irritatingly too narrow for marked width.

 

Unfortunately, because of Cross Over Ball Point Barbarians who prefer to hold a fountain pen like a ball point, Pelikan has gone over to fat and blobby tipping, outside the still semi-vintage and vintage width 200.

But the M writing like a BB, is more than likely IMO it being a semi-flex.

Edited May 11, 2018 by Bo Bo Olson

[sargetalon]

OB and OBB nibs haven't been in regular production for at least the past 5 years. EF, F, M, and B are all that is available today. The B on an M1000 coupled with a wet feed means a broad line indeed. You will have a hard time finding a used one with an oblique and when you do, you'll pay a premium for it. IMHO, your best bet would be to get the broad and have a nib meister make it into what you are looking for.

[Honeybadgers]

It is a semi-flex nib, so if heavy handed will write up to 3X a light down stroke.

 

If you are coming over from semi-nail, 400/600 or nail 800, the 1000, will spread it's tines very easily. It took me 3 months to lighten my hand, when I got my first semi-flex a 140.

 

Try Pelikan 4001 ink, a dry ink in Pelikan makes a wet nib to balance it's dry inks.

Like Waterman makes a drier nib for it's wetter inks.

 

Try a slick paper, Rhoda or Clairefontaine Triumphe.

 

If using common copy paper, all nibs are wider. If using a wet ink, and Noodlers is a very wet ink.

Once Waterman's inks were considered wet; then Noodlers came along, and I've read where Noodler users consider Waterman a dry ink.

 

And if you started with Japanese pens, all Euro pens will be fat.....just like I started with American and Euro nibs, and find Japanese irritatingly too narrow for marked width.

 

Unfortunately, because of Cross Over Ball Point Barbarians who prefer to hold a fountain pen like a ball point, Pelikan has gone over to fat and blobby tipping, outside the still semi-vintage and vintage width 200.

But the M writing like a BB, is more than likely IMO it being a semi-flex.

 

You know I have several superflex nibs, bo bo

 

It is good to hear that you, of all people, consider it a semiflex nib though. As much misinformation as is spread about the subject, if you think it's a semiflex, I will know exactly what to expect.

 

Sounds like when I get my pennies saved, I'm going to go for a B and have it oblique/stubbed by a nibmeister.

 

I just bought my first pelikan, a vintage 140 with an EF flex nib.

Edited May 12, 2018 by Honeybadgers

[Bo Bo Olson]

Not a "flex" on a 140, a semi-flex, though some say they have one in maxi-semi-flex.

 

Some folks call a superflex ....a "flex" nib. Then again some folks come over from nails and think a regular flex is semi-flex....in the tines bend!!! and spread!!!!

There are various stages of flex to be had in nibs with a tad or more of flex. In superflex, there is Easy Full Flex, Wet Noodle, Weak Kneed Wet Noodle a term invented by the nib grinder John Sowboda(sp). Superflex 4, 5-6 or the rare 7X tine spread........many a superflex nib is sprung on Youtube or paper examples on Ebay by making a nib go the once to 7X.

 

Nails are 1X. Semi-nails like the P-75, can be mashed to 2X.

 

In the 3 X tine spread set; regular flex, semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex. Don't try to press them beyond 3 X. Unless you have jack hammer hands, can't write with a regular flex at 3 X either.

Mash a regular flex...in Pelikan a 120, or an '82-97 400's or the '85 to now 200, mash the nib so you get 3 X a light down stroke.

Semi-flex takes half that pressure to get to 3X.

Maxi-semi-flex takes half of that or 1/4th the pressure needed to mash a regular flex to 3 X.

 

To rate nibs, One does need a regular flex....Sheaffer made them in the '30-60's. Parker not. Esterbrook has regular flex nibs among the rest.

 

My Superflex tine ease system.............is for 'noobies' in the more superflex, more wet noodles the more line pressure variation one finds. but is a start. Do remember, a Superflex can be a nib that only spreads 4 X, (ease of spread is as important as the amount of tine spread) most seem in the 5-6 X range, so take care when checking out the nib.

 

Easy Full flex, requires 1/8th the pressure to mash a regular flex to 3 X.

Wet Noodle, 1/16th.

Don't have nor want a Weak Kneed Wet noodle that does it in less. Did check out a MB Safety Pen from the '20's, that had a Weak Kneed Wet Noodle........... nearly as good as some dip pen nibs.

 

 

 

I do have a 100n, with a superflex nib; first stage of superflex, Easy Full Flex. But normally I'd guess, post war pens are either semi or maxi-semi-flex.

I have in Pelikan....got other brands too.

Semi-flex, two 140's, three 400's......all but one in Oblique.

Maxi-semi-flex, an Ibis***, my 400nn OF and a 500 OBBB signature pen with a 30 degree grind.

My other Pelikan's obliques all have 15 degree grinds.

 

The only regular flex I have from Pelikan in that era is a 120.

 

 

I do have a nails nail, a 400 with a D nib......there are H nibs, which are not quite so stiff.

 

*** Do not be the fool I was and ignore the Ibis............quite a good gold nib, a good pen. Won't say your Ibis will be a maxi, in not counting Osmia, maxi seems to be 1 in 5 from that era.

I have 27-8 semi-flex, 16 maxi's...counting Osmia, and 13 obliques in a mix of semi&maxi.

 

I only 'collect'/have 4-5 brands from the '50's era, and have found maxi's in them all, not marked, no info that they were made....ie no Advertising of them outside the Osmia.

Osmia Diamond nib is semi-flex, the Surpa nib is maxi.

[Twister292]

Also be aware that M1000 nibs, especially Ms and Bs are notoriously prone to having baby bottoms. I have had 3 dud Pelikan Ms with baby bottoms...F nibs are much more consistent..