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Dry Ink In The Inner Feed Of A Waterman C/f


Ignaciomartinonde

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Hello guys, this is my first post because Im new in this fountain pen passion. I hope you could help me with a problem I have. I have cleaned my fathers old Waterman CF fountain pen but it doesnt work. Its not been used for many years. I suppose that there is dry ink in the inner feed. I have leaved it 24 hrs sinked in liquid Nettoyant pour stylo Herbin. I also tried to use a pump with this liquid but it didnt get through it.

Im afraid that its been so long since the last use and this piece is useless. Do you know what can I do? Is it possible to buy this single piece?

Thank you very much in advanced

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post-142532-0-30025100-1522535782_thumb.jpeg

post-142532-0-23022300-1522535795_thumb.jpeg

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Hola Ignacio...Try ultarsonic cleaner...plus...indian ink remover...or amonia and dishes soap solution...and be patience...!

Suerte con tu pluma fuente...

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Hola Ignacio...Try ultarsonic cleaner...plus...indian ink remover...or amonia and dishes soap solution...and be patience...!

Suerte con tu pluma fuente...

Thank you Mr Rene
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Soak over night then try picking the dry ink out with a safety pin, then soak again after you take out a little ink, then pick some more out.... over a couple of days.

 

I might even try using some dry heat (like a hairdryer) and then picking the ink out too.

 

If its ink, then this should not be so hard.

My Vintage Montblanc Website--> link

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Soak over night then try picking the dry ink out with a safety pin, then soak again after you take out a little ink, then pick some more out.... over a couple of days.

 

I might even try using some dry heat (like a hairdryer) and then picking the ink out too.

 

If its ink, then this should not be so hard.

Thank you I’ve tried it with a safety pin but I’m scared to harm the feed
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You want to run the channel with a piano wire (made of steel) or a steel guitar string fine enough to go through without damage but big enough to be strong enough not to bend. It is the same principle as running the ramrod through a clogged gun barrel, so I will nickname this part "ramrodding" in this brief description. Pins are not good because the body of the pin is too big.

 

I use 0.012 inch (0.3mm) piano wire as it is safer for the feed. Unfortunately it is sometimes not strong enough. When I need to I will try 0.020 inch (0.5mm) piano wire. In steel guitar string, High E is 0.012 inch (0.3mm) and A wire is 0.021 inch (0.53mm). Plain steel wire guitar string (not wrapped or wound) is better for our purpose. Nylon is likely not as useful as steel.

 

Slide it in the ink channel hole on the available side. I usually go in the back, it is the only possibility with the section still assembled. You may have to work it up and down a number of times to break up and get past the (usually) India Ink block. If the nib is still on, look for the end of the wire to appear in the hole. You don't want to push it clear through, though I have with no ill effects.

 

After ramrodding, flush with water. Ramrod again. Repeat until water goes through the feed. It is better to repeat some more until water runs clear.

 

I have saved a couple dead pens this way. Including a modern Sheaffer Cartridge filler which I cannot disassemble. The 0.012 (0.3mm) wire is useful on clogged Sheaffer Snorkel tubes (yes I know I should store them CLEANED. My wife can tell you how often I clean...).

 

It is not as good as disassembling and cleaning the grooves with a razor blade, but it usually gets a dead pen working.

 

Jon the Eclectic Penner.

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You want to run the channel with a piano wire (made of steel) or a steel guitar string fine enough to go through without damage but big enough to be strong enough not to bend. It is the same principle as running the ramrod through a clogged gun barrel, so I will nickname this part "ramrodding" in this brief description. Pins are not good because the body of the pin is too big.

 

I use 0.012 inch (0.3mm) piano wire as it is safer for the feed. Unfortunately it is sometimes not strong enough. When I need to I will try 0.020 inch (0.5mm) piano wire. In steel guitar string, High E is 0.012 inch (0.3mm) and A wire is 0.021 inch (0.53mm). Plain steel wire guitar string (not wrapped or wound) is better for our purpose. Nylon is likely not as useful as steel.

 

Slide it in the ink channel hole on the available side. I usually go in the back, it is the only possibility with the section still assembled. You may have to work it up and down a number of times to break up and get past the (usually) India Ink block. If the nib is still on, look for the end of the wire to appear in the hole. You don't want to push it clear through, though I have with no ill effects.

 

After ramrodding, flush with water. Ramrod again. Repeat until water goes through the feed. It is better to repeat some more until water runs clear.

 

I have saved a couple dead pens this way. Including a modern Sheaffer Cartridge filler which I cannot disassemble. The 0.012 (0.3mm) wire is useful on clogged Sheaffer Snorkel tubes (yes I know I should store them CLEANED. My wife can tell you how often I clean...).

 

It is not as good as disassembling and cleaning the grooves with a razor blade, but it usually gets a dead pen working.

 

Jon the Eclectic Penner.

Thank you jspen I’m going to try it. I will tell you the result

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  • 2 years later...

In Ignacio's picture I see a seal or an O-ring. I haven't taken my FC apart yet, I wonder what that part is.

Thank you Ignacio for the picture.

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It does, thank you so much. Do you know what the gasket is made of? I'd like be prepared before I take the pen apart.

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It does, thank you so much. Do you know what the gasket is made of? I'd like be prepared before I take the pen apart.

 

It has been a long time since I took a CF apart but from memory it was a fibrous material, I think that an O ring should work.

 

A reminder to leave the cap clutch ring attached to the shell as it covers some tiny ball bearings that produce the snap attachment of the cap

 

Best of Luck.

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