Fixing Cracked Eyedropper Barrel (Waterman 12)

[hailsham]

Hello,

 

There is a crack on the eyedropper barrel of my Waterman 12 where the nib screws on. I won't say how it got the crack. (I foolishly used the barrel as a knock out block...)

 

There is also a crack on the Waterman 12's lid.

 

 

I've been recommended Loctite 480. Is there anything else I should be using before/after/during? I assume I will apply the Locite with a toothpick, hold the crack together for it to dry, then sand it down smooth?

 

My biggest concern is that the ink will leak through the crack.

 

Any other tips or recommendations? This would be my first attempt at repair so any help would be appreciated.

Edited March 18, 2018 by hailsham

[FarmBoy]

Any other tips or recommendations? This would be my first attempt at repair so any help would be appreciated.

Buy a replacement barrel and cap that match and a knock out block.

[praxim]

Or even in the other order

[eckiethump]

Step away from anything other than writing with pens

[CS388]

I can't argue with the advice from the experts.

 

But, seeing as the pen is already trashed, you've got nothing to lose by trying. Give it a go and, who knows, it might all work out? Let us know how you get on. And definitely buy, or make a knock-out block!

 

Good luck.

[MercianScribe]

Step away from anything other than writing with pens

 

That made me laugh... and is probably good advice, but as CS388 said, the OP may as well give it a go now!

 

Couple of things:

 

There is a wee thread you might find useful on using Loctite 480 on this kind of crack.

 

One of the things you might get from it is, although Loctite is supposed to be very quick drying, there will be some tension if you are pressing the sides of the crack in well enough to hold, so you won't want to sit there and hold it with your hands, as it will be painful and likely, unsuccessful. Try a dental band as mentioned on that thread, or the elastic band and toothpick set up that I used (the photos are on there).

 

Another thing is HR oxidizes in seconds, and that supposedly interferes with Loctite's adhesion, so use the finest grade micromesh available and just pass it a few times through the crack (don't rub, and don't apply pressure, just move it through in contact with both sides) just before you apply the Loctite.

 

One last thing, and this is not from experience but supposition based on Loctite's behaviour: you may be able to build up enough Loctite to fill that wee hole in the barrel you have there, but you'll have to do it in tiny amounts I imagine, and build it up slowly.

 

I'm not a restorer or nor do I work in any related field, btw, so be prepared for the experts to come along and tell you I was talking hooey!

 

I can tell you the cheapest knock-out block you can find without making one yourself, though. Pendragon does a nib/sac gauge, which makes a fine knock-out block. I use it with a silicon grip pad underneath it, and on top of it to stop it shooting off to the side and to protect the section surface, with a towel folded under a roll of duct tape. So, that's a piece of silicon grip or two, on the nib gauge, on another piece of silicon grip or two for evenness, on a roll of duct tape, on a folded towel, on a table. I use allen keys (sometimes on a piece of yep, you guessed it, silicon grip) of various gauges, and a pin hammer to tap it out, not forgetting to tape the nib to the section first.

[Hanamizu]

 

 

I can tell you the cheapest knock-out block you can find without making one yourself,

 

Metal drill gauges make handy knock-out blocks. 4 or 5 dollars on Amazon.