Reattaching Barrel End On A Slender Challenger

[kestrel]

I purchased a "broken, for parts" Slender Challenger for parts and discovered that the broken part isn't, in fact, broken. The threads on the barrel end where the blind cap screws on are on a separate piece of black plastic (on the left in the picture below)that fits into the end of the barrel (on the right). The threads on the far left are where the blind cap screws on and the button protrudes. It is a nicely made little piece. There is even a bevel for the internal part of the brass button. What type of adhesive should I use to reattach this piece. Under the loupe I can see remains of a yellowish material that could be shellac. This is a beautiful little red and black pen with a crystal clear ink window so I really want to do this right. Suggestions?

 

[Ron Z]

I don't think that Parker intended it to come out again, especially since in most cases the blind cap threads are machined as part of the barrel. I would use a quality epoxy. Shellac might hold, but you need to give it a couple of days to harden.

[kestrel]

I don't think that Parker intended it to come out again, especially since in most cases the blind cap threads are machined as part of the barrel.

That was my thought, also, but this is clearly two separate pieces stuck together. It looks like a previous owner tried to remove the blind cap by turning it clockwise using something to give a mechanical advantage, leaving the plug in the blind cap and the whole thing dangling from the pressure bar. He sold it as nonrepairable.

 

Any suggestions on the epoxy?

 

I thought about you Sunday. I had the pleasure of spending half an hour in a B-17G flying over my part of Florida.

[FarmBoy]

24 hour cure epoxy. Not uncommon to find the threads of a Duofold made of a different material than the barrel. Done by plugging a tube. Using a tube instead of a rod meant less material waste and less machining time. Material was typically purchased by the pound or ton, tube might have been more expensive per unit weight but it yielded much higher than did rod with less work.

[kestrel]

24 hour cure epoxy. Not uncommon to find the threads of a Duofold made of a different material than the barrel. Done by plugging a tube. Using a tube instead of a rod meant less material waste and less machining time. Material was typically purchased by the pound or ton, tube might have been more expensive per unit weight but it yielded much higher than did rod with less work.

Thanks, Todd.

[Ron Z]

Note that by holding the temperature at 120F the 24 hour cure epoxy can be made to cure to full strength in 2 hours, 4 at most. Actually, in some cases it reaches a higher strength than it does with the full 24 hour cure. Check the manufacturers application data sheet for more information.

 

Of the hardware store epoxies, I like PC Superepoxy best.

[kestrel]

Thank you again.