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Fountain Pen Cracks, Common Areas, Pens To Avoid/consider


EDR1633

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Recently bought a Pilot Custom Heritage 92 and found that the piston knob was cracked, radiating out of the injection molding "feed in point".

 

Was disappointed by this in a one week old Pilot. Probably was always there and I just now found it. Also, found cracking in the threads of a TWSBI Vac Mini that is less than a half year old.

 

While TWSBI is willing to replace the barrel for $4 shipping, I would not expect Pilot to be as forgiving. I am lucky I can return this pen to the retailer.

 

I have read a couple nightmare stories online regarding the Pilot 823 cracking along the threads as well.

 

Aside... TWSBI responded to my e-mail in literally less than 2min. Incredible.

 

This is starting to turn me off to a couple things... demonstrator pens and pens with threads.

 

If I'm going to spend $200+ on a pen, I would hope I don't have to pay that same amount again to get it repaired a half year later.

 

Starting to wonder what I should look for in a pen to avoid this worry entirely, although I expect this to be a little difficult when most pens are resin and have threading.

 

Are all resin pens going to be this way, even if they are flagship varieties? Montblanc 149, Aurora 88, Sailor 1911, Platinum 3776, Pilot Custom 912, Pelikan M800 (not sure how much of this one is metal)?

 

I only now feel confident about TWSBI (due to lifetime warranty), Lamy 2000, and any ebonite or metal pen.

 

I would think non-demonstrator resin pens would be a bit more durable.

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If I'm going to spend $200+ on a pen, I would hope I don't have to pay that same amount again to get it repaired a half year later.

 

 

Pilot US has a 3 year warranty on new pens: http://pilotpen.us/images/custom/GUIDE-USECARE_Mech.pdf. Specifically, it says "The balance of Namiki and premium Pilot product collections are guaranteed against mechanical failure for a full 3 years from the date of purchase."

 

TWSBI has the edge in that they will send you the part instead of requiring you to send in the pen and wait for it return, but I do believe Pilot will make it right.

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Injection molded acrylic parts are prone to these cracks. My 823 has had them happen twice, but thats because I dropped it from chest height.

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In the day since my last post, I've come to the conclusion that if I wish to avoid this problem as much as possible...

* Cartridge converter is less risky since you won't care as much if the body cracks. You only have to worry about the section at that point.

* There are plenty of cheap metal and even ebonite options out there to keep me happy.

* There are plenty of snap cap options out there to keep me happy.

* I can stick with TWSBI.

 

But I can't let this ruin my enjoyment of some really amazing fountain pens... I have an Aurora 88 on order that I am really looking forward to using.

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