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My Second Pen, First Pelikan

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An M805 Demo. I was 50/50 between the engraved version and the regular, but in the end the regular won out because I liked the cleaner appearance slightly more.

 

Its in fine and writes just as smoothly as the MB medium laying next to it and has a barrel full of Noodlers Midnight Blue.

 

Thanks to ItsMeDave for answering the questions I had about this pen.

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PAKMAN Ancient Artifact

PAKMAN

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I too went for the clean version of the M800 Pelikan. I got mine with the gold trim as all my Pels are gold trimmed.

PAKMAN

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Runnin_Ute Museum Piece

Runnin_Ute

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Very nice pens. What model is the MB?

Brad

"Words are, of course, the most powerful drug used by mankind" - Rudyard Kipling
"None of us can have as many virtues as the fountain-pen, or half its cussedness; but we can try." - Mark Twain

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sargetalon Antique

sargetalon

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An excellent first Pelikan. Enjoy it!

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

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THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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Lam1 Collectors Item

Lam1

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Congrats!

 

That's a heckuva "starter" pen :P .

Now, let us hope it gets comfy in your desk and reproduces into a whole flock (trust me, Pelikans of this species only need one to start reproducing :lticaptd: ).

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Bo Bo Olson Ancient Artifact

Bo Bo Olson

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The 800 is a nail.....If you just bought it, swap in the nib for an EF, in one needs a nail in EF, for poor paper, and or editing. Nail is 1 X tine spread.

I 'assume' your MB is a normal for MB 'Springy' nib. That pen should have good tine bend, but only 2 X tine spread when mashed.. What width?

 

Your next pen should be a 200, and there are some pretty ones, I'm quite satisfied with the brown marbled....more than that, but being retired can't go chase down the blue marbled which should be as striking.

The 200's have a regular flex nib. (3 X a light down stroke when mashed) It is like the regular flex '82-97 400.....(look for a tortoise in that) Both are 1/2 a width narrower than a modern 400/600 and both write with a cleaner line than modern..... Has a comfortable ride.

F&the oddly disrespected :headsmack:M are very good shading inks.

 

I would also suggest one of the very beautiful medium-large slightly narrower than the 800, 600 butter smooth semi-nail pens. It is a light and nimble very well balanced pen. Much better IMO than an 800....and not small posted. Later you can fit a vintage 400's semi-flex nib to it. I had mine stubbed, but before had a semi-flex B (narrower than modern like a fat M) on my 605. :notworthy1:

 

Standard and Medium-large should be posted for the great balance you can get from them.

 

In with fountain pens.....the Golden Age of Fountain Pens, died about 1970, the Golden Age of paper in the '70's- could be '80s. We now live in the Golden Age of Inks.

You need a variety of inks inks. Vivid supersaturated high maintenance 'boring' monotone inks. Two tone shading inks....and 90g or better laser paper to let them shade. Sheen are new the last 4-5 years. As are glitter inks.

After 4 pens, you would be ready for vintage '50-65 Pelikans or their semi-flex nibs :puddle: to go on the other Pelikans...200/ pre'97 400 or a modern 600. Those nibs will not fit the 800. Semi-flex are also a 3 X max tine spread, that takes half the pressure to reach that than a regular flex.

It takes a while for one's Hand to become lighter, which is why I suggest waiting until after 4 pens to get semi-flex.

 

Most people coming from ball point or roller ball, are heavy handed, which is why I suggested the regular flex nibs; they are sturdy and are now often ignored today. Even after a year after coming back from decades of ball points, I too was Ham Fisted....my 140 OB semi-flex helped cure that in 'only' three months. :happyberet:........................still my hand could be even lighter but :headsmack: no excuse. :)

 

You can of course find a vintage '50-60's Sheaffer in regular flex or pretty '40-60 Esterbrooks, where you can find all sorts of nibs from nail, regular flex and a very hard semi-flex........very sturdy pens, but because they and the Snorkel and other Sheaffer pens of that era, are rubber sac pens......you Can Not use supersaturated inks in them or they will eat the sac in weeks to a month.

Once sac's were good for 30-40 years now some 10. Cost of resacing? A couple cocktails.

 

Semi-flex gives line variation on demand.....stub and CI are always 100%.

Semi-flex due to ease of tine spread, is a wetter nib. You have to match ink and paper better to get shading.

I don't know enough about sheen inks to know if semi-flex is the advantage I think it is.

 

Chase the nib...........not makes and models. There are if you alternate between stub and CI, some 45 nibs to be had.

 

Writing is 1/3 nib width&flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3 ink, and in that order.

 

You do have a very nice start. :thumbup:

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Mew Vintage

Mew

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Congratulations Brush. It's a fine choice. I had one but not a fan of Demonstrator pens so I let it go. :)

 

@Bo Bo Olsen: the person didn't even ask about flex. Just let him enjoy his new pen without asking him to switch to any nib, flex or non-flex or he should get a flex nib from 50's next. He never asked for it. Honestly, it is getting a bit annoying now.

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Matlock Collectors Item

Matlock

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@Bo Bo Olsen: the person didn't even ask about flex. Just let him enjoy his new pen without asking him to switch to any nib, flex or non-flex or he should get a flex nib from 50's next. He never asked for it. Honestly, it is getting a bit annoying now.

 

Quite right. Bo Bo's opinions are well known, rather too well known by now. Perhaps he should learn to give it a rest. We all have our favourite nibs and we are all different. Time to put it to bed I think.

Peter

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