Sheaffer Triumph Nib Removal

[mzoeller]

OK, so I started digging around in my old fountain pens and decided to try fixing them. I'm that girl that fixed the solenoid on the fridge ice dispenser and tuned my own VW Bug in high school.

 

The first pen repair was an adorable Touchdown Tuckaway with an open nib, and that was fairly straightforward. However, I've moved on to a Triumph nib vacuum fill that I think is a Crest Deluxe (not sure since there are so many different configurations of nibs, sections, fill systems, etc.). I've been reading threads on FPN, watching Youtube videos, looked at many of the reference materials online, but...

 

I can't get the *%@# nib off of the pen. I've soaked it to death, and heated it and soaked it some more. I've tried an ammonia solution with a drop or two of dishwashing liquid, warm water, hot water and just soapy water. We're talking days. It just doesn't budge. Hubby thinks I'm nuts.

 

Is there anyplace that shows exploded views of the nib/section parts of the pens? Maybe I don't correctly understand how the parts fit together.

 

Here's a photo of the pen so you can see what I'm working with. I know someone out there will have an idea what to do next. I would appreciate any advice given to move this project along.

[hari317]

You might need the special tool designed for triumph nib removal. Made by fountainbel.

[Pentode]

Sadly, Fountainbel no longer makes them IIRC.

 

In this case I doubt soaking is going to get you anywhere. Heat is what its all about. Sheaffer used a rosin-based sealant on these pens which shouldnt need to get all that hot to let go.

 

It is generally agreed that Fountainbels custom tool is somewhat lifechanging. Now that hes stopped making them Im not sure what the plan B is. I requested one - to no avail and Ive put off dealing with my Triumphs as a result.

 

Hopefully Ron Zorn or another expert repairer can chime in here soon.

[tmenyc]

yes, three major tools are needed: heat, time, and patience. The easiest thing to do with those is put just a little too much pressure on it. It will come off at some point, between the 10th and 45th attempt, each time heating and working at it.

 

Tim

[mzoeller]

I was afraid of that. This is me, sitting on my hands, waiting... Thanks for the input. I'll post to this thread when I am successful, or trash the pen. I so hope I can get it working!

[3rdlakerobert]

You might get the nib unit (nib + feed) out of the capsule, but in the process the nib and feed are likely to separate and then you're up the creek. Sheaffer pressed them together and they seldom go back together and work right.

 

If you want the pen restored, send it to someone like Danny Fudge (The Write Pen) and pay him to do it--I don't know what he charges now for Vac-Fils, but he generally has VERY reasonable rates.

[siamackz]

Following with keen interest!

[3rdlakerobert]

The main thing is to keep the nib and feed locked together. That's what the Fb tool does for you. It's like a wrench that clamps the nib and feed together and allows you to twist the nib-feed out as a unit.

 

Heat is dicey. You need very controlled heat. An embossing gun is a good tool for this. You need an infrared thermometer to make absolutely certain you don't exceed 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

Anytime time the nib-feed unit won't turn out, I used an ultrasonic cleaner with Rapidoeze in it for a couple cycles. Sometimes I had to let it stay in and soak overnight.

Edited January 20, 2018 by Robert111

[mzoeller]

You might get the nib unit (nib + feed) out of the capsule, but in the process the nib and feed are likely to separate and then you're up the creek. Sheaffer pressed them together and they seldom go back together and work right.

 

If you want the pen restored, send it to someone like Danny Fudge (The Write Pen) and pay him to do it--I don't know what he charges now for Vac-Fils, but he generally has VERY reasonable rates.

Thanks Robert111. I'm considering doing just that. I love the look and feel of the pen and generally do things for myself, but this may be outside of my range of skills and tools.

 

I have noticed that there is no leaking around the packed plug at the blind cap end. If I decide to move forward with the repair myself, would you suggest leaving that component alone (if it ain't broke, don't fix it) or, while I'm working on the pen, do it to prevent a fail later?

[3rdlakerobert]

Thanks Robert111. I'm considering doing just that. I love the look and feel of the pen and generally do things for myself, but this may be outside of my range of skills and tools.

 

I have noticed that there is no leaking around the packed plug at the blind cap end. If I decide to move forward with the repair myself, would you suggest leaving that component alone (if it ain't broke, don't fix it) or, while I'm working on the pen, do it to prevent a fail later?

 

I think if you succeed and get past the nib to replace the plunger washer, you should go ahead and replace the barrel end seal. You can read other threads on this--the tools and techniques vary.

 

That plug isn't the kind of thing that can be counted on to continue doing its job once you start using the pen. The plug actually consists of layers of felt between plastic disks. The replacement is a solid rubber-like "donut" that will last a long time.

 

But go read some threads on the subject, especially contributions by Ron Zorn. He's a pro and the rest of us have ways of doing things that may not always work long term. There was a good thread thread on this replacement in 2017, but I'll give the job of finding it to you.

[mzoeller]

Robert111,

 

I'm throwing in the towel on this pen. I've been heating it at 142-146 degrees for over an hour and tried removing the nib every 20 minutes. I'll just tear it up.

 

Just wanted to thank you for the suggestions you made. I really appreciate them!

[3rdlakerobert]

Robert111,

 

I'm throwing in the towel on this pen. I've been heating it at 142-146 degrees for over an hour and tried removing the nib every 20 minutes. I'll just tear it up.

 

Just wanted to thank you for the suggestions you made. I really appreciate them!

 

You're welcome, but soaking in Rapidoeze might do it.

[mitto]

Try and try again. And be patient and cool. The nib would come off eventually.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/106340-shaeffer-triumph-repair-for-amateurs/

Edited January 21, 2018 by mitto

[CS388]

Deleted post. (I wrote about a different model!)

 

Good luck with your repair.

Edited January 22, 2018 by CS388

[Ron Z]

I'm afraid that the tool really is the key here. It holds the nib and feed together, and gives you a good surface to grip, and rotating the two together so that the nib doesn't rotate on the mount. With the tool your chances of getting the nib out without damage to the pen or nib are close to 100%. Without the tool, 50% at best.

 

You also need to get the section up to about 160F to remove the nibs. If you are using a heat gun with a digital readout,keep in mind that is the temperature at the outlet. The temperature drops very quickly just a short distance from the opening of the heat gun, so the section may not be the 145F you think it is. I used a non-contact infrared thermometer held against the section to check the temperature to make sure it is as hot as it needs to be, but not too hot.

 

Don't try to get the thread sealant to release NOW, and then give up if it doesn't. You need to apply gentle but firm, persistent pressure to get the thread sealant to let go. You may have to warm it a number of times before it lets go. It will feel like the section is sheering off, but once the thread sealant starts to release you're on your way. You may need to warm things again, but you'll get it out.

[mzoeller]

I'm afraid that the tool really is the key here. It holds the nib and feed together, and gives you a good surface to grip, and rotating the two together so that the nib doesn't rotate on the mount. With the tool your chances of getting the nib out without damage to the pen or nib are close to 100%. Without the tool, 50% at best.

 

You also need to get the section up to about 160F to remove the nibs. If you are using a heat gun with a digital readout,keep in mind that is the temperature at the outlet. The temperature drops very quickly just a short distance from the opening of the heat gun, so the section may not be the 145F you think it is. I used a non-contact infrared thermometer held against the section to check the temperature to make sure it is as hot as it needs to be, but not too hot.

 

Don't try to get the thread sealant to release NOW, and then give up if it doesn't. You need to apply gentle but firm, persistent pressure to get the thread sealant to let go. You may have to warm it a number of times before it lets go. It will feel like the section is sheering off, but once the thread sealant starts to release you're on your way. You may need to warm things again, but you'll get it out.

 

Ron Z, Someone posted that the tool is no longer available, so I may be out of luck on that. However, temperature may be the key to my problems. I hadn't come across the temperature of 160F before. Everything mentioned between 140-150F. I'm using a candy thermometer to keep the temperature constant in a pan of water on the stove. I have a heat gun coming, but I don't know how well I can control the heat. I have renewed hope in repairing this little gem of a pen! Thanks!

 

Try and try again. And be patient and cool. The nib would come off eventually.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/106340-shaeffer-triumph-repair-for-amateurs/

Mitto, I actually printed out this series of instructions and photos. I am just learning to repair pens I've collected over the years, and the main deterrent has been not knowing what was inside. This was the same pen I'm trying to restore, so applied in every way. Thank you!

 

Film at 11...

[Ron Z]

If I may opine.... this is not a pen on which to learn how to repair pens. Experienced as we were, Richard Binder and I spent a year trying different approaches before we decided on what we though was the most reliable method. It's not rocket science, but there are a lot of opportunities for things to go wrong, and getting the nib out is just one of them.

[mzoeller]

Please do opine Ron Z! As a newbie, I welcome your thoughts. I am just thankful that my first repair was a Touchdown - so straightforward and elegant. And easy. Otherwise, I would have stopped after the first pen repair. Although, I imagine this will be my last attempt with a vac-fill.

 

Thanks for piping up!

[eckiethump]

These are the easiest to repair of the Sheaffer vac fills, cut the back end off the cartridge, change back end seal with 'o' ring, re-new piston head seal. Re-assemble, you can either solvent weld back together cartridge or 2 part epoxy adhesive (usually preferable).

 

I have and use Francis' nib removal tools (2 sizes), but the above method for this model only is sometimes preferable.