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Reliable Next Level Pens?


Tresconik

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What do you think are the most reliable pens available these days?

 

I recently came across a discussion between the very knowledgeable Daniel Kirchheimer and someone else on the most reliable pen under 100 USD. Pens were named for their construction, manufacturing tolerances and proven reliability over the years.

 

What do you think are the pens most likely to stand up to every day use for the next 60 years? It doesn't have to be a 500 dollar pen, but you don't have to name a Lamy Safari for example. (Though I think the snap cap mechanism of the Safari would eventually wear out.)

 

There are certain pens I've found fault with, which I've listed below.

1) The problem I have with modern Pelikans (besides the M200) is the potential rusting of the section trim ring. There have also been problems reported with the bindes of the Souveran birds.

2) The slip cap of the L2K seems to develop tarnished prongs relatively quickly. I do not know if this is a recent cap design or if the prongs hold up to regular use.

3) Celluloid Sheaffers and vintage celluloid Pelikans are made of a material that grows more unstable as it ages.

 

Reparable filling systems like a lever filler count as lasting because they can be fixed easily. Other systems like an M200 piston can't be taken apart and so will not count.

 

I think we're left with pens like the Sailor 1911L which is a cartridge filler and is made of a tough plastic with screw type threads. Or a pen turned out of a suitable material with very little to no stress being added to the cap when the clip is used.

 

Any other ideas?

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Nice written response!!

Yeah, I was thinking of a clipless C/C ebonite pen which can be used as an eyedropper.

 

"Reliable" is relative to time. Some celluloid pens are three quarters of a century old and are still working... How long do you plan to keep your pens?

For the next 60 years. The question is, will those celluloids last for 60 more years?

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Odds are, it'd be an acrylic 3-in-1 (e.g., ASA Translucent Nauka or Fountain Pen Revolution acrylic Triveni or Triveni Jr.), as acrylic is a fair bit more chemically stable than ebonite. The Nauka can be ordered clipless and with a variety of Jowo and Schmidt nib units. Or perhaps one of FPR's other piston-fill pens, all of which are designed for complete knockdown by the user.

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Odds are, it'd be an acrylic 3-in-1 (e.g., ASA Translucent Nauka or Fountain Pen Revolution acrylic Triveni or Triveni Jr.), as acrylic is a fair bit more chemically stable than ebonite. The Nauka can be ordered clipless and with a variety of Jowo and Schmidt nib units. Or perhaps one of FPR's other piston-fill pens, all of which are designed for complete knockdown by the user.

My thinking is an ebonite pen made today should last as long as the 90 year old Waterman pens we come across. Or was that ebonite of a higher quality?

 

I have a clipless Nauka made from SEM ebonite with a JoWo nib unit on its way to me right now.

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a good acrylic eye dropper might be trumping all the others in term of reliability. Acrylic is as others had already put it, chemically more stable than the like of ebonite and do not suffer corrosion problem as metals do. Eye dropper filling is a mechanism that cannot fail ( unless you actually break the pen ). There are plenty of such in and around. Screw cap is in long term likely to be more robust than snap on which suffer stressing the material each and every time it gone on or off.

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Namisu Nova in titanium is a c/c pen with I believe a standard nib unit and no clip. So all the parts that are vulnerable to wear or damage can be easily replaced.

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Nice written response!!

Yeah, I was thinking of a clipless C/C ebonite pen which can be used as an eyedropper.

 

For the next 60 years. The question is, will those celluloids last for 60 more years?

You can find modern celluloid pens.

 

As for 60 years, I agree that a good Indian ED filler might be your best bet.

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A bulkfiller maybe?

Acrylic would last decades.

Titanium is resistant to corrosion.

The piston has been tested for 1 million cycles+ (as told to me), and I don't think anyone is going to fill a pen 1 million times in 6-7 decades.

 

Of course, not as cheap as Indian eyedroppers but certainly much more reliable.

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I do think a Pelikan or L2k is much more durable then you think, but other they in general are out of your $100 price range. Pilot 74 and Platinum 3776 Century can be bought under $100 with good shopping. The Sailor 1911's normally are above $100.

 

If you are looking for used pens you can go nicer. If you go vintage you start getting seeing gold plaiting that wears away on any brand of pens that got a lot of use.

 

If you take care of your pens a Lamy 2000 or Pelikan M800 could still be working and looking just fine in 50 years.

 

Remember this is going to be your first next level pen, not your last pen. Most quality pens will outlast you if you take good care of them, and if you don't plan on taking good care stay with cheep pens.

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Pretty much anything from Japan. And if you're looking for something lower cost, pretty much anything from China. The rest are a waste, either overpriced and/or iffy.

Edited by Bluey
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Nice written response!!

Yeah, I was thinking of a clipless C/C ebonite pen which can be used as an eyedropper.

 

For the next 60 years. The question is, will those celluloids last for 60 more years?

Will you last for 60 more years?

 

Just as with you, several things will determine the answer, how well the item is maintained, accidents, abuse and luck.

 

 

 

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...What do you think are the pens most likely to stand up to every day use for the next 60 years? It doesn't have to be a 500 dollar pen, but you don't have to name a Lamy Safari for example. (Though I think the snap cap mechanism of the Safari would eventually wear out.)

 

Hi there, Tresconik,

 

Considering the fact that the L2K was introduced over 50 years ago, (1966), and many of the original pens are still around, I would say that was a pretty good indicator you'd be able to get 60 years out of one.

 

I'm not sure about the tarnished prongs you mention... I haven't experienced that yet,... but it sounds like a simple cosmetic problem... and a part that could be easily replaced if you had to. (Even the venerable P51 needs a part replaced or serviced every blue moon).

 

 

- Anthony

 

 

EDITED to add text.

Edited by ParkerDuofold
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I do expect my '50's 400nn to last another 60 years..........in it's plastic gasket 2.0.

Sadly I don't expect my '50-54 400's or 100n or Ibis to last another 60 years with out a new 2.0 gasket.

They have the '40-55 Plastic Gasket 1.0. :(......I had one of them gaskets die on my old '52-54 MB....

I do have a couple others waiting repair, with dead Plastic Gasket 1.0 or a cork. I have no problems with after '55 Plastic Gasket 2.0. :thumbup:

 

If the sized cork is properly boiled in oil and bees wax then slathered with silicon grease, would expect a cork to last 70 years, and is smoother than any plastic gasket.......................do not use O rings in they can break the body....................unless you have an Ahab or Twsbi don't think one is clever and cheap by using O rings.............one is dumb and cheap.....a major difference.

 

I really don't know if poking a cartridge or a converter on a cheap plastic spike is going to last 60 years....so I suggest buying a small nail, welding a coin on it and using that to poke open up those tough cartridge mouths before slipping it on the delicate irreparable plastic spike.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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A Lamy 2k is fairly easy to take apart, and I also haven't come across the rusty prongs issue mentioned. Due to the consistent design across the years, a new cap would also be a fairly easy acquisition I would have thought, if that was needed.

 

I expect my Parker 51 to last another 60 years, it has very minimal signs of use, has been recently restored, and has a phenomenal nib on it (ground by Pendleton Brown).

 

I'm also expecting my Pelikans to last a long time. With the interchangeable nibs, the only real issue that can arise is the filling system. I'd send back to Pelikan if that occurred, and have them repair it. But I'm fairly sure that with a TWSBI wrench, it can come apart by yourself if you know what you're doing. The Pelikans just feel sturdy in their construction too.

 

As also mentioned, maybe a Japanese pen would be the way to go. For example, my Pilot Custom Heritage 91 is fully dismantable (feed, nib, and section all come apart easily), C/C filler, and the the body is the only potential issue.

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