Heart-Wrenching Bidding

[surprise123]

So I have just placed my first official bid on eBay for a used Parker 51. I'm really excited because it was a good deal. Do you guys know anything about used pens and eBay? I bought it from a reputable seller, and there is a return stretch of 17 days, but what are your experiences? This is literally the 2nd time I have ever ordered something on eBay** (asian parents rule out eBay as being a scam site unless there is a return stretch of more than 10 days) and I have no experience whatsoever with used pens. What is to be expected?* What can I do to protect this beat-up pen?

 

*Horror stories are to be accompanied by horrifying photos, please.

 

** Actually my 3rd time, if you count my lost bid for a Pilot E95s (the guy topped off my bid by 2 dollars and I failed to notice! )

 

 

EDIT: Woops, I forgot. There is a Parker thread. Sorry, Admins! If there is a way for me to move this, please tell me.

Edited December 8, 2017 by surprise123

[inkstainedruth]

I've gotten a lot of my pens on eBay. Mostly I've done okay, both with the price and the quality. But I have been burned a few times (and in a couple of cases, quite badly). You have to ask a lot of questions and look at the pictures very carefully (and the seller might not necessarily know any of your answers -- and, in one case, outright lie: not to me, but to another potential bidder, so I was willing to go up higher than I might have otherwise).

You also have to be prepared for disappointment, because there's a good chance of getting outbid: either the bidding goes up higher than you can afford -- and as a kid in middle school (from what you said in your other post about bidding on the Teal 51), I'm betting that it might go for WAY more than you can afford -- or from getting sniped by someone else at the last minute. So, you have to be prepared to walk away at that point.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[sanesangowdayya]

Pretty much what Ruth said. If you're buying a used, non restored parker 51 you need to factor in the cost of getting it restored. That being said, I would recommend you get an aerometric 51/special instead of a vacumatic because those pliglass sacs are almost indestructible and usually just a long soak will help you get it in working condition. Vac 51's will almost always require service.

[Bo Bo Olson]

That being said, I would recommend you get an aerometric 51/special instead of a vacumatic because those pliglass sacs are almost indestructible and usually just a long soak will help you get it in working condition. Vac 51's will almost always require service.

 

Back in the old days before supersaturated inks....or what ever rubber sacs were good for 30-40 years now only 10.....if that. And the Vac is a special repair job, needing experience.

Supersaturated can destroy a rubber sac inside of weeks.

So count on a dead sac.

 

Look up in past auctions to get an idea of what you want to pay.....plus 10%...that is your one bid limit.....either use a snipe program and forget it, bid once and forget it or wait full of adrenaline for a single bid 15 seconds before the end.

 

Nickle and dime bidding trying to scare someone away from the item is stupid....an ego bid war is what happens in the end.

Edited December 8, 2017 by Bo Bo Olson

[Aldington]

Generally you should do well on eBay - I have sold just under 2,000 items on the site and have probably made at least the same number of purchases. It's no different from going into an antique shop or attending an auction house - go in with your eyes wide open, decide how much is the maximum you are willing to pay and ask all the appropriate questions.

 

If your bid is in response to an intelligently-worded advert with good quality photos and the seller has 100% (or thereabouts) positive feedback you would be unlucky to go wrong. An advert with a single blurred photo, a description of "nice pen" and a history of poor feedback is the one to walk away from.

 

Pens (like antique clocks - my other passion) are going through a bit of a dip in price on eBay at present so you are likely to pick up a good bargain. As an example I sold a good Duofold yesterday ( I had replaced the sac to ensure customer satisfaction) for just £19 and recently had no bids (starting at £10) on a pristine (but admittedly humble) Parker 45.

Edited December 8, 2017 by Aldington

[surprise123]

I very well know that the pen might get sniped, but I know of other pens the seller has that are restored and are not on auction, rather are more expensive on a "buy it now". I have $50 in reserve just for restoring pens I buy this holiday season, I'm just not sure if that would be enough for a P51, though. If need be, I will do what it takes to get my hands on one of these P51s.

[JotterAddict62]

Just place your high bid you are willing to pay for the pen and forget about it. If you win great, if not there will be more to come. [ try again ]

[Ron Z]

There is always the option for buying directly from a known seller rather than eBay. Yes, you pay more, but you also get a restored pen, usually a 10 day return option, and in many cases a warranty. You also get instant gratification i.e. there is no need for a long soak to get it to work, or the cost of shipping to and from a pen mechanic, and a wait for the pen to be restored. Buy it, get it, fill it, use it.

[Charles Rice]

Bid no higher than what you want to pay.

 

Don't get sucked in at the last minute (second) and pay more than you budgeted just because "you wanted it". If you think an item is worth $100.00 and no more, STICK WITH IT.

 

Yes, you can get burned. Seller ratings are not all that good of a guide. And pay attention to where the item is coming from. Some areas are more likely to sell fakes than others.

 

Bottom line - ya pays yer money and takes yer chances.

[Sandy1]

Hi,

 

You have received excellent advice / clear observations on prior replies.

 

As I am UK-basd, I prefer UK Vendors.

(Though I have more than a few Zorn-ed Sheaffers - his site is on speed dial.)

 

As with any auction site, the Vendor should be responsive to queries - if not I consider them to be box wallahs who sell rope watches etc

 

Please be aware that venturing into the realm of flexi nibs things get very foggy.

 

Bye,

S1

Edited December 8, 2017 by Sandy1

[sidthecat]

My practice has been to buy from estate sellers who know a little less than I do about the pens they’re selling. It’s worked out well for the most part. If you have esoteric tastes, it’s probably the best way to go.

[Runnin_Ute]

There is always the option for buying directly from a known seller rather than eBay. Yes, you pay more, but you also get a restored pen, usually a 10 day return option, and in many cases a warranty. You also get instant gratification i.e. there is no need for a long soak to get it to work, or the cost of shipping to and from a pen mechanic, and a wait for the pen to be restored. Buy it, get it, fill it, use it.

Terrific advice. My last vintage Pelikan (a 140) was bought from a seller with a good reputation. He offers a guarantee and the pen was restored. Could I have gotten one for less on ebay? Sure, and paid a significant amount less, but might have had to send it off anyway. Generally speaking I have been fortunate on ebay, under $50 for A Parker 51 Special and similar price for a Pelikan M200 old style with OB nib among others. The M200 was in great shape. The 51 Special was in good shape, but not quite as pristine.

Edited December 8, 2017 by Runnin_Ute

[OMASsimo]

I collect vintage pens and find most of them on ebay because flea markets and antique shops here are no good for pens. Be warned that venturing into vintage pens comes with a high potential for addiction! There are just too many interesting pens.

 

You can find great bargains on ebay but you can also get robbed. The key is that you need to have a good knowledge about the pens you are interested in. Many vintage collectors are also experienced in restoring old pens. Lots of little issues are much easier to fix than most people think. I've never sent any of my countless vintage pens to any professional and I restored a lot of them so they look pristine and work like a charm. Of course, you won't learn that overnight but it might be good to know. Changing an ink sac is not rocket science.

 

Take care and good luck with your first steps into the vintage world!

[ParkerDuofold]

...I will do what it takes to get my hands on one of these P51s.

Hi Surprise,

 

Don't let youthful, blind ambition lead you into a bad deal. When buying a new pen... especially an old, vintage one,... a cool, relaxed head will always strike a better bargain than a hot one.

 

Do I really have to explain how I know this???

 

Once upon a time, there was an innocent looking 1967 Imperial LeBaron that bewitched a loveable teen-aged kid from a mysterious kingdom known as Jersey...

 

...don't make me have to tell you the rest.

 

Take your time... don't let your money burn a hole in your pocket... and read RonZ' advice a couple more times.

 

 

- Anthony

 

P.S.: I'll tell you how the story ends... the loveable but impetuous youth was saved at the last second by a wise, old sage, known throughout the land, only as "Dad,"... you may not be so lucky.

[surprise123]

I will never, ever pay more than 30 to 40 dollars on a used pen from eBay, and even then I will request for detailed pictures, seller experience, and the proper ID aspects of the pen (a fake P51 will have some aspects the real one does not). I, in this scenario, contacted some other people who bought from this seller, and they all seemed to have good feedback.

[surprise123]

Yess... 4 days left... for the pen to be sniped.

[PatientType]

I've bought a lot of pens on Ebay. Some of those pens cost in the hundreds of dollars. There are good, well-established pen vendors on Ebay. Some, like Martini that sells Pelikan and some other brands, are pen shops. But many of my purchases were made from private individuals or people liquidating estates. I've been lucky and have had only one or two less-than-fully-satisfactory experiences. I suppose that, for a newbie, my advice would be to watch Ebay and learn but to do most of your used pen shopping here on FPN. I've only been burned once here and most people go out of their way to be helpful, fair, and forthright.

[Chouffleur]

Pretty much everyone who has already commented here knows more than I do about your question. I'll just add this little bit on what has worked for me so far.

 

Bookmark the eBay auction in your browser in a folder with a creative name like "Pen Auctions".

 

The link will have a description like MM/DD HH:MM <Pen Description taken directly from eBay Auction>.

 

If you have more than one link put them in date/time sequence.

 

Decide on what your max bid is on each auction.

 

Do not bid.

 

Forget about the auction until one day before it ends.

 

On the day before the auction take a look at the pen.

 

If it exceeds your max bid, delete the link.

 

If you've had second thoughts about the pen or found something else that you like better but has an auction that ends later, delete the link.

 

15 minutes before the auction closes, log in to eBay and go to the auction.

 

If it exceeds your max bid, delete the link.

 

If you've had second thoughts about the pen or found something else that you like better but has an auction that ends later, delete the link.

 

Wait until some number of seconds (your choice) before the end and enter your max bid (allowing yourself time to click the Confirm button after the bid goes in).

 

Thrill of Victory / Agony of Defeat ensues.

 

If ToV go pay.

 

If AoD shrug shoulders and delete link. Move on.

Edited December 9, 2017 by Chouffleur

[surprise123]

I will take that ebay advice into hand. I, impulsive as I am, already bidded for the P51. I am certain it will get sniped. I have a question, though. If I make 2 bids for 2 different pens, and I win both, what is the penalty of jot purchasing one of them?

[Barkingpig]

Just as others have commented on advice to check the feedback ratings of a Seller before you choose to attempt purchase of an item; the inverse is also true. Some Sellers will not sell to a customer who does not have a minimum number of feedback ratings. I would imagine NOT following thru with an auction's completion would result in a "poor" feedback rating from the Seller for your transaction.

 

I have never sold anything on Ebay but I imagine other members have & will be able to explain what their practice is, if such a situation arose. There is a process to "withdraw" a bid but that is done while the auction is "underway," not after it's completion.