Aerometric 51 Flaking: Annoyance Or Problem?

[express]

I have an opportunity to buy a nice looking 1948 Parker 51, restored by a well-known, reputable restorer.

 

In the photos and the description, I see some of the usual flaking that seems typical on early aero's. Nothing terrible, just like I've seen on a bunch of others.

 

My question: For those who have encountered it, is this a mere appearance issue, or can it lead to real problems? It's one thing if I know the great looking pen on the outside doesn't look quite as great inside . . . it's another if the corrosion penetrates the filler in two years and I "spring a leak."

 

Thanks in Advance!

 

 

[mitto]

Mere appearance issue. Well, in most cases.

[Glenn-SC]

I have never seen anything on a Aero "51" "flake".

Do you have a photo?

BTW, the parts of the filler/feed mechanism (that I can recall) are all non-metallic, so "corrosion" won't cause leakage.

[mitto]

I have never seen anything on a Aero "51" "flake".

Do you have a photo?

BTW, the parts of the filler/feed mechanism (that I can recall) are all non-metallic, so "corrosion" won't cause leakage.

He probably means the chrome plated aluminium filler shroud.

[express]

He probably means the chrome plated aluminium filler shroud.

 

YES! Sorry for the confusion; that's what I get for posting in the middle of the night.

[mitto]

My local timing shows you posted at 9:39am.

Edited November 30, 2017 by mitto

[Ron Z]

The flaking of the plated aluminum sac guard is just a case of progressive uglification. The 51 aerometric sac guard is simply a case that protects the sac and supports the pressure bar. Even if it corrodes through, the pen will not spring a leak.

[inkstainedruth]

My Plum Demi Aero has the same sort of corrosion on the sac sleeve. I suspect that's why I got it at a fairly decent price. It wasn't "minty minty" and didn't fetch the super high premium prices that Plummers often get. Which is just fine with me -- I'm not a C-worder, and I use the pen, and nobody is going to see the sac sleeve corrosion until long after I'm dead and gone.

But it's good to get the opinion of a major repair person weighing in. Thanks, Ron. And good luck to express -- hope you get the pen and are happy with it (hey, it's a Parker 51, and the only people I know who WOULDN'T be happy tend to be people who don't like the look of hooded nibs).

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[pajaro]

You could always change out the sac guard on a pen where the plating is flaking off. Some unscrew and screw back on. I think some filler guards might be a press fit or a shellac-on affair. It has been years since I replaced one of these, so I see the details as murky. They can be replaced, though. If you have a relatively valuable pen, like a plum pen, buying a sac guard or buying a donor pen and scavenging the sac guard might make you feel better about your pen. You should consider finding a correct replacement part if your pen is valuable, as in a plum pen. Using correct parts for the period of production should be de rigeur for collectors.

Edited November 30, 2017 by pajaro

[Ron Z]

The plated aluminum "press 6 times" sac guards screw onto the connector bushing. The later stainless "press 4 times" sac guards are a press fit, though the connector bushing may be ribbed for a good grip on the inside of the sac guard. In general they are not interchangeable. The threads on the inside of the aluminum sac guard can be corroded, and therefore it can be a bit of a challenge to get them off without breaking the connector bushing.

 

An option of course is to move everything over to a later bushing/sac guard assembly.

[mitto]

The corroded aluminium 'press 6 times' filler looks ugly. In one of my pens I polished away all of the plating. And it looked kind of ok. Another one of mine has now started disintegrating as a chunk of it has fallen off where the opening for the press bar is. It has also started showing cracks on both ends.

 

On my 1948 plum I have put a replacement NOS 'press 4 times' filler shroud without replacing the connector. The sac guards, as Ron said above, are not interchangable but I used some easily reversible tricks to make the 'press 4 times' sacguard stay put on the original connector meant for the 'press 6 times' filler shroud.

 

I am waiting the arrival of a lot of very good condition six sacguards that I bought lately and that include 03 'press 6 times' ones that I would use as replacement for the bad ones on my pens.

Edited December 1, 2017 by mitto

[pajaro]

An easily reversible trick to secure the sac guard would be shellac. Someone suggested this to me years ago.

 

If I had a Plum with a shabby sac guard, I would consider buying one of the older aerometric pens with the full length sac guard with the blackened lettering and the black cap at the end. Then I would probably just swap shells or hoods. These sac guards can be found on '48 and '49 pens, both demis and full size. They are correct for the period.

[express]

Thanks to all, as always.

 

So . . . I'm sure this has been covered, but since we're on the subject, what DID Parker change to prevent this in just slightly later models? Most filler sleeves that I've seen in the "post-1952-when-they-stopped-putting-dates-on-just-to-annoy-us" period look jaw-droppingly good.

[mitto]

They started making stainless steel sacguards. But inbetween there were also plated sacguards made of brass. Those had 'press 4 times' inscription but said 'use dry writing superchrome ink' like the earlier plated aluminium 'press 6 times' threaded ones said. Those also turn ugly when the flacking occures.

 

The later stainless steel sacguards, on the other hand, while having 'press 4 times' inscription came first with 'use ... superchrome ink' and later with 'use parker ink'.

 

The sacguards on English made 51s, however, do not have any mention of ink usage, whatsoever.

Edited December 1, 2017 by mitto

[mitto]

An easily reversible trick to secure the sac guard would be shellac. Someone suggested this to me years ago.

 

If I had a Plum with a shabby sac guard, I would consider buying one of the older aerometric pens with the full length sac guard with the blackened lettering and the black cap at the end. Then I would probably just swap shells or hoods. These sac guards can be found on '48 and '49 pens, both demis and full size. They are correct for the period.

 

What I have observed is that the later stainless steel 'press 4 times' sacguard is too loose to be glued on the 1948 - 1949 production connectors. So shellac does not do the job. One has to use somethhing to act as a washer in order to press fit the later 'press 4 times' sacguard on it.

[Tom_Moritz]

From what I understand it's just plating. If you want to be safe just put a bit of enamel based paint over bare metal. Honestly you should be fine, as other pointed out there is no contact with ink on the shroud.

[pajaro]

What I have observed is that the later stainless steel 'press 4 times' sacguard is too loose to be glued on the 1948 - 1949 production connectors. So shellac does not do the job. One has to use somethhing to act as a washer in order to press fit the later 'press 4 times' sacguard on it.

 

I wouldn't use that filler, the later stainless, or any later filler, because it's not correct. If that were all that were available, I would keep looking for a more satisfactory part. If you put that filler sheath on a Plum 51, I wouldn't buy it, even though someone else might.

[mitto]

I wouldn't use that filler, the later stainless, or any later filler, because it's not correct. If that were all that were available, I would keep looking for a more satisfactory part. If you put that filler sheath on a Plum 51, I wouldn't buy it, even though someone else might.

I agree. I have used that sacguard only as a stop gap arragement because the shabby aluminium filler looked too ugly. As I said in my earlier post I have already sourced the correct 'press 6 times' threaded sacguards to put on my pens with flaking aluminium filler shrouds.

[pajaro]

I agree. I have used that sacguard only as a stop gap arragement because the shabby aluminium filler looked too ugly. As I said in my earlier post I have already sourced the correct 'press 6 times' threaded sacguards to put on my pens with flaking aluminium filler shrouds.

 

Yes, that's the way to do it. For the benefit of others who have perhaps not thought of the importance of using correct parts on vintage pens, especially if they might eventually want to sell the pens, I made that statement.

 

It would be amusing to see an ebay ad for a plum 51 with the late filler sheath that comes to a conical point.