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Do You Use Mylar?


11 replies to this topic

#1 siamackz

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 01:10

I do a decent amount of nib polishing, tuning, and even grinding of all sorts jut for practice/fun. I use micromesh from 3000 grit to 12000 grit. But, Ive never used Mylar paper for smoothening (though I have it). I find that 12000 grit does a sufficient job. Am I missing out on next level smoothness (practical experience please, because in theory I know it should help with superior smoothness)

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#2 jekostas

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 03:12

I just started using mylar paper/sub-micron grit abrasives in the last month or so.  From practical experience - yes it makes a difference compared to finishing with 12000 grit Micromesh.  The difference isn't huge, mind you, but it's noticeable.



#3 farisromzy

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 04:50

Not anymore, after I used up all my mylars for knife honing. I personally think mylars are good to have, but not a must-have.

Now I use the 12k mesh in two stages: first to remove the scratches from the lower grits I used prior, second to somewhat buff the nib. From my experience, I can really get mirror finish using the 12k unless if I was too harsh on the lower grits.

My method of getting nib smoothness has a lot to do with nib shaping rather than polishing the surface.

#4 Bill Wood

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 13:38

12,000 is about it for me too. I like the one sided cloth type.


Edited by Bill Wood, 23 November 2017 - 13:39.


#5 Chrissy

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 16:32

I have nib smoothing boards as well as a couple of different grit mylar sheets. I find that the smooth, all grey side, of the smoothing board does enough polishing for me. When I've used the mylar sheets, they have taken off more material than I needed taking off.


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#6 pen2paper

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 17:04

Chrissy, are these the smooth buffing side of 3 step nail finishing sticks? 



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#7 lurcho

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Posted 27 November 2017 - 00:28

I've never been able to decide whether those mylar sheets made any difference, and for a long time I thought they had a roughening effect on nibs previously smoothed with 12K Micro-Mesh.

 

However, they can definitely take some material from the inner edges of the nib tip, a practice best avoided altogether if possible.

 

As others have noted, I've too have been amazed by what can be done with a cheap four-sided nail-buffing stick.



#8 siamackz

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Posted 27 November 2017 - 00:59

 
I've too have been amazed by what can be done with a cheap four-sided nail-buffing stick.


Yup, I only use the sticks now - cheap, easy to find, super convenient cause you have all 4 grades right there, and the sticks are also a better grip for polishing pen barrels

#9 viju

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Posted 27 November 2017 - 13:43

I bought two Mylar sheet (green and white) once for smoothening.They looked so innocuous and smooth but I soon found out they are capable of removing the tipping material within no time. If not used carefully and with a light hand you can make flat areas on your nib. But buff sticks works better for me because of the cushioned surface and they are less abrasive than Mylar sheets but gets the job done perfectly.

#10 Pendel

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 13:34

I do use mylar-backed abrasive film. When placed on a hard surface these can be very effective to hone the nibs into stubs and cursive italics. Micromesh is good for rounding, as it has more give and more uneven texture. Mylar sheets are also good for de-burring the inner sides of the slit after grinding, but one has to exercise care and use extremely fine grades.




#11 siamackz

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 15:54

Mylar sheets are also good for de-burring the inner sides of the slit after grinding, but one has to exercise care and use extremely fine grades.


Good idea, will try!

#12 minddance

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Posted Yesterday, 09:34

Is this 'mylar' in question 3M lapping film?



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