I can afford the 200, but not a Grand Place....and the pretty 800 is not a pen for me.......sure is pretty though.
I have to admit originally I was a gold snob...then some Osmia and a Geha 790 steel nib, changed my mind. Good gold can be as good as good steel.
Trans-mailing 200's nibs that matched my '90's tortoise 400, and two Celebries, one gold and one steel changed my mind. So I didn't need a 200 having a 400, later vintage ones too. So I got a 215 for the 200's nib!
Pre'97 will do for regular flex with a small to normal American Bump Under....not a huge blob on modern 400/600/800. The 200s, and my '90-96 Tortoise, 381, 2 Celebry...one gold, one steel...Are equal in width and springiness. My W.Germany 200 OM...has a slight bit more spring if one looks for it. I helps to have other '90's Pelikan gold and those steel Celebry and newer 200's regular flex nibs.
Actually the regular flex gold plated 120 is a pretty nice nib, too.
The passed Piembi, who was once the Pelikan Guru here, told me not to chase a '82-90 W.Germany M400 in I'd be disappointed in I was spoiled with my then 140 and 400nn nibs. She was right for line variation, the '50-65 era has very good line variation for semi&maxi with a 3 X max tine spread. I expect my W. Germany 200's nib to be = to the same era's '82-90's gold ones......similar to the later '90's gold to the steel ones.
I do like the regular flex nib for shading, in it's not as wet as semi&maxi-semi-flex. F& M are good shading nibs. M is a good nib width in spite of the prejudice against it learned and 'taught' on the com. Those are at least a 1/2 narrower than modern. Are not fat&blobby, they write with a clear line. Semi-flex requires a better ink to paper match than regular flex for shading....(Got to get a sheen ink....or see if I have some and don't know it. )
Like the vintage '50-65 era, both vintage&semi-vintage seem to me @ equal in width.
For line variation of course the Semi&Maxi give more and easier. I recommend only the obliques from that era.
Having hopes for my W. Germany 200 OM, but it being regular flex so needs to be mashed to show line variation, so is not worth buying for pure line variation.
It writes well enough but don't do the trick. I had tried 200 Oblique nibs I trans-mailed to a pal in England and was not impressed.
The W.Germany 200, was in a live auction pen lot, and I had hopes the W.Germany nib would have enough spring and tine spread. ..the Ibis made up for my later disappointment, got a OM 400 out of the lot too. So there were two winners in the lot....the 200 is pretty enough. A gray ...can't call it quite a shiny swirl...but there is some 'grey pearl' to it.
I always say, because I really don't have enough War and pre'war Obliques, that the only ones worth buying are the '50-65 era.
The newer than '65 obliques are a waste of money for line variance & unless a left hander or left eye dominant where one cants the nib as natural to see the top of the nib.
Edited by Bo Bo Olson, 07 November 2017 - 21:53.
www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany Info on Bock nibs
Due to Mauricio's improved definition of Super-flex, I try not use the term Easy Full Flex, but fail...sigh.
Semi-flex is an “almost” flex; not a ‘flex’ nib. It is great for regular writing with a touch of flair. It can give you some fancy; but it is not made for real fancy writing. For bit more of that get a maxi-semi-flex. Both spread tines 3X. Those are not "Flex" nibs.
Wider than Normal does not exist. Wider than Japanese does. Every company has it's very own standard + slop/tolerance. Developed from the users of it's pens and inks only; not the users or inks of other companies pens. The size you grind a nib to, is your standard only. Paper and ink matter to nib width. Thank god for 1/2 sizes or it would be boring.