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Nib Smoothing Advice? Grit Between 8000 And 12000?


IndigoBOB

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Hello,

 

I have had some really good luck smoothing out some nibs on my cheaper pens like the hero 616, Jinhao's, and what not.

 

But I've found I have run into a problem. The 8000 grit micro-mesh doesn't smooth the nibs enough for me. It's good for prep work and curving out rough edges I find.

The 12000 grit micro-mesh smooths the pen too much for me.

 

I have had some luck finding an in between with the Brown Paper Bag, but despite being smoother than the 8000 grit it leaves a peculiar feedback I am not partial to.

 

I was wondering if anyone had any idea of something that works in between an 8000 and 12000 grit micro mesh or of any idea of what would work for this.

 

I am always open for techniques anyone might have!

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I was wondering if anyone had any idea of something that works in between an 8000 and 12000 grit micro mesh or of any idea of what would work for this.

 

 

the grit conversion chart at the micromesh website indicates that their 8000 is roughly equal to 3 microns. You might want to try Mylar backed lapping films finer than 3 microns as an intermediate between 8000 and 12000 grit. Like 2.5 microns or 2. HTH.

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the grit conversion chart at the micromesh website indicates that their 8000 is roughly equal to 3 microns. You might want to try Mylar backed lapping films finer than 3 microns as an intermediate between 8000 and 12000 grit. Like 2.5 microns or 2. HTH.

 

 

Thank you so much!! I will think that will help a lot.

 

I find some nibs are much more sensitive to the polishing on the 12000 while others polish more incrementally on it.

 

I have 1 micron and 0.3 micron mylar papers from Goulet, but they simply go too far for me as you can imagine. I will research the lapping films and give them a try.

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If you want to try something different, I use standard grit 1000 sanding paper for reshaping the tip (if necessary) and then a small felt buffing wheel on a dremel with standard polishing paste. I can polish the tip to any degree I wish and if gone too far can roughen up the tip a bit using the sanding paper and restart.

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Hello,

 

I have had some really good luck smoothing out some nibs on my cheaper pens like the hero 616, Jinhao's, and what not.

 

But I've found I have run into a problem. The 8000 grit micro-mesh doesn't smooth the nibs enough for me. It's good for prep work and curving out rough edges I find.

The 12000 grit micro-mesh smooths the pen too much for me.

 

I have had some luck finding an in between with the Brown Paper Bag, but despite being smoother than the 8000 grit it leaves a peculiar feedback I am not partial to.

 

I was wondering if anyone had any idea of something that works in between an 8000 and 12000 grit micro mesh or of any idea of what would work for this.

 

I am always open for techniques anyone might have!

 

It's my opinion that you should back all the down to 2400g, and start very gently, with making figure 8's for a very short period of time, then Roll your Pen. And TEST. From there jump up to 6000g and do the same, not forgetting to TEST. Then progressively work your way thru the Micromesh chart. By the time you finish with 12,000g, you will have a Buttery Smooth Nib. Let me know how this goes?

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I think I am going to try that. Right now I only have an 8000 and 12000 micro grit, but I will have to acquire a micro mesh set for it. I have found that through trial and error with a few Chinese pens that I need to take my time. Every pen develops the ability further.

 

Brian Gray from Edison has a video made from several years back that is very helpful on youtube so I am studying up in my free time.

 

It may take a while for me to get what I need, but I will happily get back. It would be nice to be able to spruce up a pen properly, even if it is just a 616.

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I have never used anything lower than 12,000 mesh for 'nib-smoothing.'

 

I use a nib smoothing board, and the grey smooth side works for me. :)

 

The only thing you can attempt for the inner tines is a brass shim, but it's hardly ever necessary in my experience.

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I have 12000 grit micromesh from goulet, which is that rubbery sheet. I have heard other people preferring other types of 12000 like those on the "filing-sticks" that I believe Richard Binder sold at one time, or one that is a soft touch micromesh.

 

I was wondering if anyone knows if that makes a difference?

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Thanks, but do I reach the unexposed inner part of the iridium tipping?

 

You should not need to smooth the unexposed inner part of the iridium tipping. If you do, you will cause 'baby's bottom' on your nib.

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It is possible to over smooth with the 12,000 grit. The other issue can be the metal on some of the Chinese nibs. I experimented with some Jinhao nibs but the metal was the alloy equivalent of pressboard. You can try the green lapping film as that might give you a better finish.

 

With regard to the inside of the tines, look under magnification if its a sharp edge. If not, leave them for the time being. the 8000 might also be creating sharp edges you are not seeing with the naked eye.

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A good loupe is as essential for nib work as the polishing film, if not more so.

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To highlight Ron's advice, take a look at this JOWO 18K Double Broad. You can see slightly misaligned tines, sharp edges on the inside of the tines, and little edges on the sides of the tines.

 

post-37141-0-10773800-1511319988_thumb.jpg

post-37141-0-44817100-1511320024_thumb.jpg

 

Some of this you catch with your eye, other you need a loupe. After smoothing, those issues have been eliminated.

 

post-37141-0-00045000-1511320184_thumb.jpg

post-37141-0-71968700-1511320212_thumb.jpg

President, Big Apple Pen Club

Follow us on Instagram @big_apple_pen_club

 

"Let other pens dwell on guilt and misery."

 

J.J. Lax Pen Co.

www.jjlaxpenco.comOn Instagram: @jjlaxpenco

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