Renovation/care Of Sheaffer Plastics

[Bill Nick]

More expert, but basic, advice for a newbie needed here, I'm afraid.

 

I'm waiting for the sound of a PFM11 coming through my letterbox any day now and have been researching renovation and care of it (and any other pens, come to that) because it's going to need some!

 

Last night I came across a Grandmia YouTube video in which it stated that getting water on plastic barrels and section would result in discolouration. Apparently it's a big no-no but all the other pens I've got have, in my ignorance, been exposed to water when cleaning with no discolouring happening, this would include Waterman and Sheaffer pens and other unmentionable cheaper brands.

 

Maybe I've just been lucky so far but I really don't want to risk messing up the PFM when I have a go at it so I would appreciate any input from those in the know.

[3rdlakerobert]

When I flush a pen before loading a different ink, I run water over the nib and feed and fill the pen with water repeatedly from a paper cap to flush it. In the process of doing this, I'm sure I get water all over the pen. I've never seen any discoloration.

[Bill Nick]

When I flush a pen before loading a different ink, I run water over the nib and feed and fill the pen with water repeatedly from a paper cap to flush it. In the process of doing this, I'm sure I get water all over the pen. I've never seen any discoloration.

 

Me neither.

[Ron Z]

Stef (Grandmia) has been wrong about a lot more things than just this. Soaking a celluloid barrel might produce mild undesirable results, but not contact with water. Some hard rubber pens may be discolored by exposure to water, and casein can be damaged by soaking in water. Most plastics made after the mid 40s (and this is certainly the case with Sheaffer's Forticel) will not be damaged in the least by contact with water, or soaking for that matter. The PFM is a pretty robust pen, and with the stainless spring inside VS the carbon steel spring of the snorkels, is not prone to the rusting problem that the slimmer siblings have when the sac fails. Rusted screws, especially in the PFM V (the one with the gold button on the end) is usually the most damage you see from water.

[Vintagepens]

If you are planning on repairing your own PFM, I'd strongly suggest you not follow the procedure shown in his rather notorious Snorkel repair video.

 

Stef (Grandmia) has been wrong about a lot more things than just this.

[Bill Nick]

Stef (Grandmia) has been wrong about a lot more things than just this. Soaking a celluloid barrel might produce mild undesirable results, but not contact with water. Some hard rubber pens may be discolored by exposure to water, and casein can be damaged by soaking in water. Most plastics made after the mid 40s (and this is certainly the case with Sheaffer's Forticel) will not be damaged in the least by contact with water, or soaking for that matter. The PFM is a pretty robust pen, and with the stainless spring inside VS the carbon steel spring of the snorkels, is not prone to the rusting problem that the slimmer siblings have when the sac fails. Rusted screws, especially in the PFM V (the one with the gold button on the end) is usually the most damage you see from water.

 

The PFM11 arrived today, it's not been a collector's pen it's been a user's, so there are the usual light surface scratches that they all get. It's showing a little pock-marking to the edge of the clip and the barrel, that's all.

 

I took it apart just to clean it and try a bit of polishing, gave it a soak, in warm water. No adverse results and its initially cleaned up nicely. I've got a service kit on the way and I'll have another go after the new bits are in.

Edited September 27, 2017 by BillNick

[Bill Nick]

If you are planning on repairing your own PFM, I'd strongly suggest you not follow the procedure shown in his rather notorious Snorkel repair video.

 

 

Why is it that notorious, anything in particular? Sealing the barrel threads maybe?

[Vintagepens]

This thread may be instructive: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/221215-how-to-service-a-sheaffer-snorkel-fountain-pen/

 

 

Why is it that notorious, anything in particular? Sealing the barrel threads maybe?

[Bill Nick]

This thread may be instructive: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/221215-how-to-service-a-sheaffer-snorkel-fountain-pen/

 

 

I guessed right. Thanks.

[Ron Z]

 

I guessed right. Thanks.

 

...mmm, more than that.

[Bill Nick]

 

...mmm, more than that.

 

What else is there that I've missed, are you not allowed to tell? What's the big mystery?

Edited October 3, 2017 by BillNick

[Bill Nick]

 

...mmm, more than that.

 

Not sharing...?

[WireFox]

I can't for the life of me think why water would discolour plastics but then 'plastic' covers a very broad range of materials. Hard water might discolour the plastic if left soaking for a few months :-)

 

I have a fifties Sheaffer Sentinel (snorkel) and that came to me looking a little lacklustre. For those of a nervous disposition cover your eyes at this point ;-); I used a proprietary plastic and acrylic polishing compound and it worked a treat. The plastic looked like new after a few applications with a microfibre cloth.

 

These plastic polishes are abrasive so I would recommend a treatment that is intended for final finishing. A jewellers cloth worked well on the metal components.

 

Good luck with the renovation but personally if the PFM is in working order I would leave well alone until something fails :-D