I've heard other people say they are doing something like this with Noodlers Pens. What are you doing? How are you doing it? Do you have to use a feed as well? Do you have to change out the insides as well?
Never done a nib swap before?
Okay, I'll explain this as best as I can.
With most (modern) pens, a nib swap is extremely simple. Most modern pens use a #5 or #6 nib made by Bock or Jowo. The nibs aren't the *exact* same size and shape, but they're very close. Bock and Jowo nibs can be bought as just a nib, or as a "nib unit" which screws into the section (grip). Some other brands, such as Pelikan, TWSBI, and Aurora make their own nib units. TWSBI (and Pelikan, I believe) uses nibs made by Jowo (and Pelikan has Bock-made nibs, I believe) that they then manufacture feeds and nib unit "collars" for.
Nib units are very easy to swap in and out. Just buy a new one from the same brand, unscrew the old one, and screw in the new one!
Pens that don't use a nib unit make it a bit more difficult. Modern pens are typically a bit more structurally sound than vintage ones, so you can do what's called "pulling" the nib and feed. It's more or less what it sounds like. You place your thumb on the bottom of the feed, your finger on the base of the nib, and pull to remove them. Usually pretty easy. Nibs can also be pulled out of nib units, in case you wanted to fit a different brand's nib in (If you have a Bock nib you like, but you want it in a Jowo-based pen).
Vintage pens make it a bit more difficult. They're more fragile, and nibs and feeds were typically wedged into the section with quite a bit of force. They're a very tight fit. So what you have to do is to take the section out, support the section in a knockout block, and use a "punch" (a thin, sometimes hollow rod) and a hammer to knock the nib and feed out. You've also got to tape the nib and feed together to prevent the feed from coming out first (it can damage the nib), tape the section up and mark where the nib's edges are so it can be reinserted properly, and heat the section with dry heat to make it less fragile.
So this Noodler's safety is an odd case, because it's a modern pen with a vintage design, but not a typical vintage design. This is more or less how a typical vintage section looks when you're knocking a nib and feed out. You probably already know what a modern pen's insides look like, so I won't bother showing you.
However, this isn't a design typical of any era. Safeties are a very, very unusual design, and they're very complicated. Here is where Nathan (Noodler's owner) introduces this pen in a video. He pretty quickly starts disassembling it, and at about the 14 minute mark he pulls the (I don't actually know the proper term for it, forgive me for using a made-up one) shaft out of the pen. Pause it as he does, and you can see what it looks like. Pretty much just like a miniature pen. So what you've gotta do is heat it up (I'll explain how in a sec), pull the nib and feed (don't forget to wrap tape around the "section" of the shaft first, and use a thin marker to mark where the edges of the nib are), and then reinsert it with a different, properly sized nib. Making sure to line it up correctly and heat the "section" before reinsertion, of course.
The heat is very important because of a particular property of ebonite (the material of which the pen is made). Ebonite is very resistant to heat, especially compared to other materials pens are made of, like celluloid. Ebonite can be heated very hot (using DRY heat) without any damage to it, and can be fairly easily moulded into a new shape while hot. It'll then cool, and stay that way. It's also less fragile when hot. Then, if you ever want to return the ebonite to its original shape, you just reheat it, and it magically returns to it! I've literally done this with small ebonite pins before, bent them when hot, then heated them back up to straighten them out. Takes absolutely no effort. Super cool.
So you heat it to make it less likely to crack and to make sure that any minute changes to its shape can be reversed easily in the future. Make sense?
To heat it, you want to take a hairdryer and blow on the part you're heating. Rotate the part you're heating around, so that the heat is evenly distributed and one part isn't warmer than another. Every few seconds, test it against your cheek. With black ebonite like this (I'm not sure about the heat tolerances of other kinds of ebonite) let it get hot enough that you don't want to hold it there for more than a second or two. Don't let celluloid get that hot, and like I said, I don't know about red, blue, pink, green, brown, etc ebonite.
That's how you swap a nib in a Noodler's safety!
Oh, by the way: You don't use a knockout block with a safety because there's no hole in the back of the shaft's "section". Well, there is in some, but... it's weird. I don't have my Noodler's one yet, so I can't say exactly how it's made, but I know that a knockout block won't work with it.
All of that make sense? Ask questions!
I highly recommend watching that whole video, by the way
Edited by EMQG, 06 December 2017 - 19:07.