Glue Or Silicon Grease

[jskywalker]

I'm cleaning and restoring my Omas Pen from the 90s. This is the first time I'm doing this overhaul since I owned it brand new....

 

I had removed the nib section from the barrel. There seems to be some glue which they used to screw the nib section to the barrel. It took me a while to clean up the screw thread on both the nib section and inside the barrel.

 

The question is, is it glue ? what type ? or Silicon Grease ?

 

For Silicon Grease, I have this http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEIKO-SILICON-GREASE-TSF-451-Waterproofing-Watch-Gaskets-4g-Japan-ePacket-/322188465062?hash=item4b03edd3a6:g:mAkAAOSwd0BVr6sD

 

Is it ok ?

 

Also, I would like to know, what do you use to polish the exterior ? I would like to restore the shine.

 

Thanks.

Edited September 1, 2017 by jskywalker

[Ron Z]

Omas used a rosin based sealant to seal the section threads, not glue. It can be removed with naphtha.

[jskywalker]

Thanks.

 

I'm thinking over time the silicone grease might not be a good sealant, and might give way very fast.

 

What about a thin layer of those shoes sealant ? Is it similar ?

[Ron Z]

That is really an adhesive. You don't want to glue the parts together. I've used tried, and do not use, silicone grease. I do use the rosin based thread sealant based on the Sheaffer formula. A jar of a rosin based thread sealant will cost you $15 and change if you're in the USA. Its the stuff to use.

[jskywalker]

Thanks. But I'm in Singapore and there's no way for me to get any of the stuff.....

[penmanila]

Buy it online ang get it shipped to you. You will regret using anything else and will end up paying more for repair charges when the time comes. Theres no advice you can get here better than Rons for this sort of thing. I use rosin-based sealant myself for sealing the sections of vintage Parker Vacumatics. Just a small dab creates an airtight seal but it comes off easily with a little heat from a hair dryer.

Edited September 3, 2017 by penmanila

[EMQG]

That is really an adhesive. You don't want to glue the parts together. I've used tried, and do not use, silicone grease. I do use the rosin based thread sealant based on the Sheaffer formula. A jar of a rosin based thread sealant will cost you $15 and change if you're in the USA. Its the stuff to use.

 

What's the advantage to rosin based sealant over shellac?

[calvin_0]

Thanks. But I'm in Singapore and there's no way for me to get any of the stuff.....

 

silicon grease is enough to form an tight seal.. just put a generous amount if you are worry about leaking..

 

also just get it from online places like gouletpens.com, i'm from malaysia and i brought stuff from them just fine. the shipping isnt as bad as well.. I brought one pen and silicon grease and they only charge 14 USD for shipping.. I paid more for shipping when I use ebay.

Edited September 19, 2017 by calvin_0

[ColdDeadHand]

 

What's the advantage to rosin based sealant over shellac?

EMQG- The rosin-based sealant is so perfect because it holds very well when applied to threads, and the melt temperature is rather low.

Shellac does a good job of holding things, but the reason restorers do not like to use it as a thread sealant is because shellac melts at a temperature that is VERY close to the temperatures at which these old pens start to melt (celluloid is what I think of mostly since I'm a Vacumatic fan). I forget the exact numbers, but I think the melting point on celluloid vs. the melting point on shellac is about 5 degrees difference, in Fahrenheit.

The rosin-based stuff is honestly a bit like magic. Warm it up a little, apply to threads with a toothpick (I use one fat dab, that's all it ever takes), then screw the thing together. Now your threads are sealed, and the joint won't unscrew, but if you ever need to get back in there, you can do so fairly easily with a heat gun, but you don't have to take the temp up so high that you're nail-biting and worried that your whole pen will melt, just give it a good warm all over....and BEHOLD! LIKE MAGIC! Your threads are turning!

 

Really, it's a world of difference to me.

[ColdDeadHand]

Thanks. But I'm in Singapore and there's no way for me to get any of the stuff.....

I am in the US, so I just buy mine from MSP (one jar will last basically until the next ice age).

BUT you can make your own rather inexpensively. You need a rosin cake and some castor oil, both of which I'm sure are available in Singapore.

I do hear the process can be a bit messy, but probably worth it. Also, it makes a lot, so if you have other pen-restorer friends in Singapore, you can give or sell them the extra sealant.

 

http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.com/2013/05/rosin-based-fountain-pen-sealant.html

[Ron Z]

 

 

I do hear the process can be a bit messy,

 

^^ The understatement of the year. I hope my cat never gets her paws into the stuff.

[EMQG]

EMQG- The rosin-based sealant is so perfect because it holds very well when applied to threads, and the melt temperature is rather low.

Shellac does a good job of holding things, but the reason restorers do not like to use it as a thread sealant is because shellac melts at a temperature that is VERY close to the temperatures at which these old pens start to melt (celluloid is what I think of mostly since I'm a Vacumatic fan). I forget the exact numbers, but I think the melting point on celluloid vs. the melting point on shellac is about 5 degrees difference, in Fahrenheit.

The rosin-based stuff is honestly a bit like magic. Warm it up a little, apply to threads with a toothpick (I use one fat dab, that's all it ever takes), then screw the thing together. Now your threads are sealed, and the joint won't unscrew, but if you ever need to get back in there, you can do so fairly easily with a heat gun, but you don't have to take the temp up so high that you're nail-biting and worried that your whole pen will melt, just give it a good warm all over....and BEHOLD! LIKE MAGIC! Your threads are turning!

 

Really, it's a world of difference to me.

 

Thanks! That's really informative! I've always hated having to use shellac, and I've been using silicone grease when possible. I'll buy a bottle of this and start using it instead.

 

 

 

^^ The understatement of the year. I hope my cat never gets her paws into the stuff.

 

Mind if I ask why you still prefer to use shellac on 51 hoods? Is it because the lucite is more resistant to heat than celluloid?

[Ron Z]

I prefer to use shellac on repairs because it keeps the casual pen owner from removing the hood and screwing up the alignment. I do on my own pens. You just don't tighten the shell really tight when you put the pen back together. You are correct- Lucite can handle the higher temperatures needed to take the pen apart much better than celluloid.

 

Having said that, I have seen evidence that suggests that Parker likely used a rosin based thread sealant on the threads. If it is your own pen, there is no reason why you couldn't use rosin based sealant.

[Flounder]

I am in the US, so I just buy mine from MSP (one jar will last basically until the next ice age).

BUT you can make your own rather inexpensively. You need a rosin cake and some castor oil, both of which I'm sure are available in Singapore.

I do hear the process can be a bit messy, but probably worth it. Also, it makes a lot, so if you have other pen-restorer friends in Singapore, you can give or sell them the extra sealant.

 

http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.com/2013/05/rosin-based-fountain-pen-sealant.html

 

Oh, an old blog post! Photobucket has done a thorough job of ruining it, but the YouTube clips in later posts later gives an idea of the consistency to aim for if home cooking:

 

http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/rosin-based-thread-sealant-safety-second.html

 

http://flounders-mindthots.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/rosin-based-thread-sealant-final.html

 

I have a personal preference for the light aroma and brighter colour of the looser-cut rosins in those videos.