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Black Ink Recommendation That Doesn't Bleed Through Or Feather For Very Wet Pen

very wet pen ink rrecommendation noodlers safe

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17 replies to this topic

#1 3nding

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Posted 17 August 2017 - 21:57

I have recently acquired a Karas Kustoms Ink with a fine palladium nib. The pen writes great and the fine line is excellent, but it is very very wet. Since I bought this pen to use as a versatile everyday pen in the physics lab, school, for journaling and every other writing need you can imagine, I don't really have much control over the paper I will be using it on. Therefore I need to find a black ink that is both dry and adaptable.

 

I have already tried Pelikan Brilliant Black in it, but it still bleeds through on a lot of different kinds of paper.

 

NOW THE MOST IMPORTANT PART AND THE HEART OF THE QUESTION:

 

I have considered using Noodler's Bulletproof Black but it seems very polarising. Lots of people praise it as their most used ink  but I have also seen many say that it leaves a residue that is very hard to wash out and over the long run, ends up clogging their pens. So I want to know once and for all is Noodler's Bulletproof Black safe enough that if I use it in my pen and practice good pen hygiene (say wash it every three fill or every three weeks or something like that) will it leave any residue? If so, are there other alternatives that still fit the bill but are safer?

 

Thank you all in advance :)

 

 



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#2 3nding

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Posted 17 August 2017 - 22:09

Sorry, I don't know why this as been posted twice. Maybe a mod can take it one of the threads down?



#3 cattar

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Posted 17 August 2017 - 22:26

Diamine and Robert Oster tend to be drier than Pelikan 4001. I'd try those in the pen first.

 

Noodler's inks can be smeary and more particular about paper. Diluting each fill 10% or more with water helps.

 

Permanent inks tend to require more frequent flushing of pens.



#4 ac12

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Posted 17 August 2017 - 22:56

quote

I have already tried Pelikan Brilliant Black in it, but it still bleeds through on a lot of different kinds of paper.

endquote

 

This tells me that the pen is writing WET, and has a high ink flow.  Because Pelikan ink is a DRY ink.

 

You may have to have the pen adjusted to slow down the ink flow.

Either send it back to KK or send it to a nib meister.


Edited by ac12, 18 August 2017 - 21:36.

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#5 KellyMcJ

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 00:22

Any of the nano particle inks (platinum, sailor) are supposed to excel at this, although I haven't tried them (I have a bottle due to arrive Saturday though). Registrar's is good on 95% of paper, that last 5% it fares better than most.

Both require more maintenance but nothing horrible.

#6 ParkerDuofold

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 03:08

You may have to have the pen adjusted to slow down the ink flow.
Either send it back to KK or send it to a nib meister.


Hi 3nding, et al,

If Pelikan 4001 black is a problem, this might be your only solution... you can also try the nano inks Kelly recommended...

However, my advice is see if you can adjust it yourself... place the tips of the thumb and forefinger of your dominant hand on the shoulders of the nib and GENTLY press inward... if you can get the nib to move inward... just a millimeter or fraction thereof... you can diminish the ink flow. If this technique doesn't work... send it to a pro.

Be well and enjoy life... even if it kills you. :D


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EDITED to clarify instructions.

Edited by ParkerDuofold, 18 August 2017 - 03:11.

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#7 aeba

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 04:58

I too would try nano carbon inks before getting a pen adjusted. Sailor kiwa-guro + Kaweco Al-Sport steel BB (modified to be wetter than usual) + a hospital bill printed on some random copy paper -> no bleed through. No feathering either.

 

First letter from dipped glass nib pen does bleed through, but it was deliberately wet.


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#8 FPRebel

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 05:18

Not a dry ink, but a gorgeous black that doesn't bleed even on newsprint:  Noodler's X-Feather
It's in my EDC because it writes on all types of paper and has the bonus of being water-resistant.



#9 amberleadavis

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 05:24

Sorry, I don't know why this as been posted twice. Maybe a mod can take it one of the threads down?

 

 

merged


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#10 amberleadavis

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 05:25

If you can get your hands on some samples, try different inks. You will learn so much from the experience.  I really like Noodler's Black and HOD.


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#11 Bristol24

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 10:14

I have found Parker Quink Permanent Black to be very forgiving of nearly all but the very cheapest of papers. It doesn't require the maintenance regimen of a nano partical ink and is somewhat fast drying on the page while slow to dry in the nib. Unless your pen is a fire hose I think you may want to give it a try.

#12 wallylynn

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Posted 18 August 2017 - 23:42

Try diluting the Bulletproof black if its too concentrated

HoD has a little less surface tension than plain black



#13 matteob

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Posted 19 August 2017 - 16:20

Noodlers blacks are very good but a little thick and as said may need diluting a bit. Noodlers X Feather is very good on cruddy paper but takes some time to dry.

#14 FPFan

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Posted 19 August 2017 - 23:43

Any of the nano particle inks (platinum, sailor) are supposed to excel at this, although I haven't tried them (I have a bottle due to arrive Saturday though). Registrar's is good on 95% of paper, that last 5% it fares better than most.

Both require more maintenance but nothing horrible.

 

I would highly recommend the Platinum Carbon Black ink for several reasons including its complete permanence once it is dry and the richness of the line that is puts down. With many of the other inks discussed they have a tenancy to leave a layer of ink that will slough off the paper thereby staining it grey if wet is introduced to it, no matter how long it has been sitting on the paper. When the carbon black is completely dry, not much beyond destruction of the paper will remove it. I believe it is as permanent as an ink can get. 

 

You pen should be okay with regular flushing schedule you have mentioned. I would suggest a good cleaning and soak with a pen cleaner such as J.B's pen flush, Rapid-o-eze cleaner, Goulet's Pen Flush, or any other appropriate cleaner after 5-10 regular flushes. For myself, I have dedicated two Nakaya pens (one ultra fine and one medium stub) as strictly Carbon Black ink only pens. No possibility of any cross contamination as "some" believe could cause problems.


Edited by FPFan, 19 August 2017 - 23:44.

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#15 View from the Loft

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Posted 20 August 2017 - 08:03

Diamine and Robert Oster tend to be drier than Pelikan 4001. I'd try those in the pen first.
 .


In my experience, Pelikan 4001 inks are drier than most Diamine inks, but I can't comment on the Robert Oster ones.

What I can say is that none of the Diamine Blacks are as dry as Pelikan 4001, so if that bleeds through, your pen is very wet and I would try reducing the flow.

#16 3nding

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 20:34

Hi everyone,

 

Sorry for the long time in between posts, I really wanted to try to reduce the flow first as was recommended here. Unfortunately, despite all my efforts of playing around with the tines, moving the feed, trying to regulated the quantity of air in the converter, nothing seems to do and on regular paper, it bleeds through and feathers like crazy even with Pelikan Black. Are there really no old school regular inks with no "special ingredients" that are dryer than this? If not, I might consider going with either Noodler's X-Feather, Bulletproof Black or Sailor Nano Black or maybe going to a nibmeister, although I am a bit reluctant to do that as I have already put 50$ in the pen to have worked on and money isn't infinitely available.

 

Do you have any more suggestions? I am really open to anything!



#17 amberleadavis

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 21:34

Actually, I just realized it may be easier for you to switch out the nib entirely.

 

 

And generally the Pelikan inks are drier than than other inks.


Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

 

Want to get a special letter / gift from me, then create a Ghostly Avatar  

 

Participate in the newest Inky TODs: 

Why do I like those nibs? 

What do I like about my handwriting? 

Whose handwriting do I like?  

Which Script Will I learn? 

Which Inks for my Handwriting

 

Ink comparisons:  The Great PPS Comparison  366 Inks in 2016

 

Check out inks sorted by color:  Blue Purple Brown  Red Green Orange Black  Pinks  Yellows  Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal


#18 3nding

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Posted 03 October 2017 - 00:50

Good news! After much finicky and difficult work, I think I have finally managed to fix the problem by playing around with the tines until they were slightly closer together, aligning them and then aligning the feed. Afterwards I let the nib soak for a very long time in a dish soap and water solution. Now the final thing left that perplexes me, but is probably completely normal, is that I only have bleedthrough and feathering when I just filled the converter, but that doesn't happen with cartridges of the same ink...

 

Actually, I just realized it may be easier for you to switch out the nib entirely.

 

 

And generally the Pelikan inks are drier than than other inks.

 

In the long term this could be an option (although now I am pretty much satisfied with it), but at 150$ for another palladium nib it is a little out of my range right now  :D







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