Sheaffer Vac Fil Packing Removal?

[CS388]

Hello all.

 

This is my first Sheaffer vac fil repair. It's all going well - except I can't remove the packing unit at the top of the barrel.

I've read posts on this and other forums and seen YouTube videos, some of which suggest that this may be a threaded part, as opposed to friction-fit? I've tried soaking and heat, but it won't budge, via knocking it out.

I've seen people drilling this part out, but am trying to avoid that, if at all possible. (It's currently soaking again!)

 

My question: Are some of these units threaded, therefore screwed into the barrel? If so, how can I tell which is which?

(Mine is a short, clipless, brown striated pen, triumph nib, white dot on the cap, aluminium screw in the turning-knob)

 

Thanks in advance.

Best wishes, CS

 

[Ron Z]

Except for the very early WASP Vacuum fillers which are threaded, the packing units in Sheaffer plunger fillers were not designed to be removed and reused. Granted, some of the early Triumph pen packing units fall out or come loose on their own. But later ones are for the most part secured very well in the barrel. I leave room for the odd one, but most of the time they can not be removed without risk of damage to the barrel, or the threads. Sheaffers instructions to repair mechanics was to drill out the old one and replace it with a new one.

 

Richard Binder and I played with these for about a year before we started to take clients plunger fillers in for repair. We tried all kinds of things, including Fountainbels tools. Our preferred method is to go in from the inside with a drill and drill out the packing material (not the whole packing unit) and replace with a Viton 0-ring, and then a retaining washer of styrene. David Nishimura sells the 0-rings and retaining washers. You can make your own using thick wall 1/4" tubing from Plastruct, cut into washers about 3/32" thick.

 

Having the right head gasket material is also important. Most rubber material is either 0.032" or 0.015" thick. Sheaffers washers were 0.026", made out of graphite impregnated rubber. We don't have that rubber available to us today, but we do have a high grade buna-N rubber that is 0.027", and the proper durometer (hardness) which means that they will not pull off around the head gasket nut at the end of the rod.

 

Don't use shellac to seal the threads BTW. It is possible shear the barrel off trying to remove a section that has been sealed with shellac.

[CS388]

Many thanks, Ron. Most informative and knowledgeable, as always.

 

Okay, then. I'll be getting the drill out, after all!

 

Will shellac be enough to fit the retaining washer, to keep the O ring (packing) in situ?

 

Thanks again. Much appreciated.

[Ron Z]

Sheallc won't do the job. You need solvent to secure it.

 

David sells a kit with a pipette to drop the solvent down in the end to solvent weld it in place. I prefer to put the 0-ring in place, then wet both surfaces (barrel end and retaining washer) with solvent, then installing the washer. You will use either MEK or acetone. Dale Beebee (Pen tooling) is in the process of having a tool made that I made for myself about 10 years ago do do this. One end holds the 0-ring, and the other the washer so that you can guide it in and push it home in the packing unit. The fit is just snug enough on the pins to hold the pieces, but loose enough that when you remove the tool the piece is left behind.

[CS388]

Thanks, Ron.

 

Not quite the 'walk in the park" I thought it was going to be - but, still looking forward to getting into it.

Okay, time to get some parts ordered.

 

Thanks again for your help. Invaluable!

[3rdlakerobert]

Except for the very early WASP Vacuum fillers which are threaded, the packing units in Sheaffer plunger fillers were not designed to be removed and reused. Granted, some of the early Triumph pen packing units fall out or come loose on their own. But later ones are for the most part secured very well in the barrel. I leave room for the odd one, but most of the time they can not be removed without risk of damage to the barrel, or the threads. Sheaffers instructions to repair mechanics was to drill out the old one and replace it with a new one.

 

Richard Binder and I played with these for about a year before we started to take clients plunger fillers in for repair. We tried all kinds of things, including Fountainbels tools. Our preferred method is to go in from the inside with a drill and drill out the packing material (not the whole packing unit) and replace with a Viton 0-ring, and then a retaining washer of styrene. David Nishimura sells the 0-rings and retaining washers. You can make your own using thick wall 1/4" tubing from Plastruct, cut into washers about 3/32" thick.

 

Having the right head gasket material is also important. Most rubber material is either 0.032" or 0.015" thick. Sheaffers washers were 0.026", made out of graphite impregnated rubber. We don't have that rubber available to us today, but we do have a high grade buna-N rubber that is 0.027", and the proper durometer (hardness) which means that they will not pull off around the head gasket nut at the end of the rod.

 

Don't use shellac to seal the threads BTW. It is possible shear the barrel off trying to remove a section that has been sealed with shellac.

 

Sheallc won't do the job. You need solvent to secure it.

 

David sells a kit with a pipette to drop the solvent down in the end to solvent weld it in place. I prefer to put the 0-ring in place, then wet both surfaces (barrel end and retaining washer) with solvent, then installing the washer. You will use either MEK or acetone. Dale Beebee (Pen tooling) is in the process of having a tool made that I made for myself about 10 years ago do do this. One end holds the 0-ring, and the other the washer so that you can guide it in and push it home in the packing unit. The fit is just snug enough on the pins to hold the pieces, but loose enough that when you remove the tool the piece is left behind.

 

Ron,

I think I've misunderstood or simply don't understand the directions above. I've done dozens of Vac-Fil restorations now, maybe even a hundred, and have developed my own somewhat different way of replacing the packing units. I won't go into my method here.

 

My problem with your procedure started when (using MEK) I couldn't get the rubber "packing gasket" and the "styrene closure washer" to bond to the insert (the original "plug" that carries the threads for the plunger knob) in the bottom of the barrel and the barrel walls. Although the rubber gasket seems to be a nice friction fit in the bottom of the barrel inside the cavity of the "plug," I found the styrene washer's diameter to be too small for the barrels of most Vac-Fil pens. By "small" I mean a loose or very sloppy fit. No amount of MEK would make the washer bond to the inside barrel wall. The result of course was the new packing would simply would not stay in the bottom of the barrel when the plunger rod moved up and down.

 

I've seen your directions, and David's, many times, carefully read them and considered them, and I just can't figure out how you get your new packing to stay in place. What am I missing????

[CS388]

So, before I put the whole lot away, I was looking for a nice sized drill bit, found one, gave it a final whack and - hey presto, the whole thing popped out. I guess I must have one of the 'lucky' ones.

 

 

I was expecting to see a ridge in the barrel, to sit the unit on, but it's smooth all the way down. Maybe I've just added to my problems, as now I'll have to calculate where to re-fit it, so that the knob fits neatly!

Ah, well, onwards and upwards.

 

Robert111, thanks for reply.

The last thing I want to do is to cause any conflict between the experts, but I'd be interested to know of your method?

As I stated, this is my first vac-fil, so I'm on a learning curve.

 

Thanks again to all for your help on this journey.

Going out now to try and catch the Perseids meteor shower.

[3rdlakerobert]

So, before I put the whole lot away, I was looking for a nice sized drill bit, found one, gave it a final whack and - hey presto, the whole thing popped out. I guess I must have one of the 'lucky' ones.

 

I was expecting to see a ridge in the barrel, to sit the unit on, but it's smooth all the way down. Maybe I've just added to my problems, as now I'll have to calculate where to re-fit it, so that the knob fits neatly!

Ah, well, onwards and upwards.

I've encountered this problem many times. I take a working Vac-Fil pen and I measure with calipers the distance from the end of the barrel to the end of the packing plug's threaded nipple to determine how far into the barrel to glue the plug. I just measured some of my Vac-Fils and the extension of the nipple beyond the barrel end ranges from about 2.3 mm to 2.8 mm.

 

Robert111, thanks for reply.

The last thing I want to do is to cause any conflict between the experts, but I'd be interested to know of your method?

As I stated, this is my first vac-fil, so I'm on a learning curve.

Well the last thing I want is conflict too, so I'm keeping my mouth shut about my method rather than mislead anyone. I know Ron has 10 times the experience I do and I respect that. You should do it his way, and I hope he'll clear up my question about the MEK bond with the closure washer.

 

Thanks again to all for your help on this journey.

Going out now to try and catch the Perseids meteor shower.

Edited August 12, 2017 by Robert111

[CS388]

That's fair enough. Thanks for reply.

 

I'm thinking that the unit should be easy to reassemble, (once the new parts arrive) now that it's out of the barrel.

Thanks for the advice on positioning. Sounds better than my original plan.

I'd thought I would attach the knob, insert the unit with knob attached (dry) until it's in the correct position, then insert a wooden dowel (through the section end) to mark this correct position. I would leave the dowel in position in the barrel, remove the unit and then apply the MEK and put the unit back in, up to the dowel. If it all goes to plan, the unit should be in the correct position.

 

As I've said, it's a learning curve. I expect to make some mistakes along the way. Hopefully nothing too drastic!

 

Thanks again.

[FarmBoy]

Use a 1/4" (0.025) drill bit to open the bottom of the packing unit inside the barrel. Once you pierce into the packing unit use a pick to remove the debris from the old seal. If you want to get precise use a 0.250 reamer to dress the cavity. Go clean the barrrel with soap and water. Slide the new seal (o-ring) and a closure washer on a long appropriately sized rod with a small head. Push the rod and new seal unit into the pen from the open end of the barrel. Hold it in place with some pressure and apply a drop of MEK from a long needle. Walk away for a day or so.

 

Common problems I observe:

 

Greasing the o-ring before solvent welding--solvent weld doesn't work with the surfaces are slathered with silicone grease.

 

Drilling the bottom of the seal out with a drill bit that is to small so the new parts do not fit.

 

Drilling to deep.

 

Not properly removing the old seal.

 

Not cleaning the barrel well.

[3rdlakerobert]

So the packing plug's cavity will hold both the rubber packing gasket (O ring) and the styrene washer?

 

My recollection is that the washer doesn't fit into the cavity because the rubber gasket is so thick it almost completely fills the cavity. Am I wrong about that?

 

I also recall that on occasions when I have forced the packing plug out the end of the barrel while drilling--as CS388 did--I have glued the rubber O ring into the cavity right out in the open where I could see it, and the styrene washer just sits on top, adding no security to the bond between O ring and packing plug. Is my recollection of this incorrect?

 

CS388 has a nice photo of the packing plug in post #7, and it sure looks to be too shallow to hold a rubber O ring and a washer.

[CS388]

Thanks, FarmBoy. That's great advice - especially the advice to walk away for a day after the MEK action.

Always an Achilles' heel in my work - I want it to work NOW!

Also good advice re the non mixing of grease and solvent. This sounds like a tricky part of the operation. The fact that I've got the plug out of the pen may make this step easier - I hope.

 

Thanks, Robert111. The picture is just a phone snap and it may misrepresent proportions, the plug may be deeper than it appears in the photo? I've just ordered the spare parts and I'll post another picture, when they arrive. Fingers crossed.

 

Thanks.

[Vintagepens]

Yes, both the packing gasket and the closure washer fit into the packing unit's cavity. There will be plenty of room for both unless the cavity wasn't properly cleaned out. A 0.25" reamer or countersink is very useful for this task -- a pointed drill bit will not do the job by itself. The rubber packing gasket should NOT be glued into place. If anything, the styrene closure washers will be a little oversize, given that a 0.25" twist drill in softish plastic won't yield a hole a full 0.25" in diameter. You can file or sand it down a little if necessary, though softening the edges with solvent will usually accomplish the same more easily.

 

So the packing plug's cavity will hold both the rubber packing gasket (O ring) and the styrene washer?

 

My recollection is that the washer doesn't fit into the cavity because the rubber gasket is so thick it almost completely fills the cavity. Am I wrong about that?

 

I also recall that on occasions when I have forced the packing plug out the end of the barrel while drilling--as CS388 did--I have glued the rubber O ring into the cavity right out in the open where I could see it, and the styrene washer just sits on top, adding no security to the bond between O ring and packing plug. Is my recollection of this incorrect?

 

CS388 has a nice photo of the packing plug in post #7, and it sure looks to be too shallow to hold a rubber O ring and a washer.

[CS388]

Just to confirm that David (above post) is exactly correct. The parts have arrived.

(Please forgive my poor phone photography, it is merely for illustrative purposes.)

 

1: The parts and empty cup

 

 

2: The rubber ring in place

 

 

3: The styrene washer on top of the rubber ring

 

 

They are just sitting in there loose, in these photos.

I want to take my time with this job and I have to head off to work soon, so I'll be doing it at a later date.

I'll report back when the job's done.

 

Thanks again to all contributors.

Best wishes, CS

[tmenyc]

Sorry for the late entry into this topic. I'll definitely echo David Nishimura's recommendation to use a 1/4" reamer after drilling through. Cleans the cavity out in no time, and you can feel the process much better in your fingers than with the drill bit alone. Having a sharp pointed drill bit for the piercing, followed by the reamer, is a great combination.

 

Tim

[CS388]

Sorry for the late entry into this topic. I'll definitely echo David Nishimura's recommendation to use a 1/4" reamer after drilling through. Cleans the cavity out in no time, and you can feel the process much better in your fingers than with the drill bit alone. Having a sharp pointed drill bit for the piercing, followed by the reamer, is a great combination.

 

Tim

 

Yes, it sounds like good advice.

 

Fortunately, my packing unit came out complete, so it was easy to clean out all the old contents.

 

Thanks.

[BamaPen]

Perhaps I just give up too easily, but after about a 50% success (failure) rate on trying to repair vac-fil Sheaffers, I happened to encounter Gerry Berg at the Columbus Pen Show. After seeing what Gerry was able to do, I decided that in the future my vac-fills would go to him. I am expecting a nice Crest back any day now, and I know that when Gerry finishes it will be better than new. I can't recommend Gerry too highly.

[CS388]

Well, it took two attempts to rebuild it. The first time, it worked but didn't suck up much ink. But, after a strip down and a tighter rebuild of the packing unit, it worked like a dream, the ink swooshed into the pen. Nice writer too.

 

I decided to take it to work, threw it in my coat pocket. It was too hot to wear a coat, so I just carried it. When I got to work, realised that I hadn't zipped up the pocket and the pen was gone. I'd had it as a working pen for less than 24 hours!

Ah, well. Live and learn, I hope.

 

Thanks go out to RonZ for the invaluable advice.

And FarmBoy for the same - here's the packing unit getting its overnight solvent fix:

 

 

And thanks to all contributors. I've enjoyed this thread and learnt things.

Still slightly furious with myself for losing it with such a schoolboy error, but that will pass and I'll get my hands on another vac-fil, when funds allow.

 

Thanks again and best wishes. CS

 

 

[tmenyc]

arrgh...so sorry. Luckily unrestored Vacfils are readily available at reasonable prices. BTW, I love the c-clamp. Think it's big enough for the job?

 

Tim

Edited August 23, 2017 by tmenyc

[CS388]

arrgh...so sorry. Luckily unrestored Vacfils are readily available at reasonable prices. BTW, I love the c-clamp. Think it's big enough for the job?

 

Tim

 

Ha ha! Yeah, just about! (I only used light pressure)

 

Thanks.