An Estie That I Was Given

[teryg93]

I was given a bag of pens a few days ago. Mostly Sheaffers, which is cool since I haven't really tried many Sheaffers and it had a couple that I think I'm going to like.

This Estie was in the bag as well. It's old but the bladder is really supple. I don't know if that means it's already been restored. I think it had ink in it before I cleaned it. The bag had a half dozen fountain pens and some ballpoints. I cleaned all the fountain pens at the same time; most, if not all, were inked.

 

The nib is a 9550.

The section was difficult to get out (stuck) and is difficult enough to get back in that I have not put it in yet. The first thing I thought of was a little silicon grease.

 

Anyone know what pen this is, and what I can do so the section doesn't stick?

 

 

Edited August 11, 2017 by teryg93

[catbert]

Looks like a Deluxe SM.

[teryg93]

Thanks. It really does look like that. Now to get the friction fit section to work a little better. I don't want to force the section into the body.

Edited August 11, 2017 by teryg93

[FarmBoy]

Thanks. It really does look like that. Now to get the friction fit section to work a little better. I don't want to force the section into the body.

Heat the barrel before you insert the section.

[pen lady]

I agree with Farm Boy. It's usually a good idea to heat the barrel mouth before reinserting the section, I use a hair dryer, and a small amount of silicone grease wouldn't hurt either.

[teryg93]

Thanks. I don't have silicon grease around so I'm going to order some, and I'll heat the barrel mouth when I go to put the pen together. I'm hoping that's all it needs, or I'm going to end up spending a bunch of money on the free pens :-).

[pen lady]

Got a dive-shop close by? Places that sell SCUBA gear also have silicone grease.

[FarmBoy]

Farmboy would not be placing silicone grease on a slip fit section.

[penmanila]

Ditto that. Heat is your friend here, not grease. You can use a blow dryer (I would).

[gweimer1]

Yep...I am in the gentle heat only camp. I love the Deluxe series pens, but the metal ring (in my opinion) makes working on them a little tricky. The plastic wasn't as durable as the J series, so getting the section off/on takes a little patience and finesse.

 

I would also suggest using pure talc on that sac before reassembling the pen.

[welch]

Farmboy would not be placing silicone grease on a slip fit section.

 

Another FPN member talking about himself in the third person???

[DanDeM]

A very fine layer of talc on the shoulder of the section - - the part that slides into the barrel - - serves as a lubricant, but not a replacement for heat. Only a supplement.

[FarmBoy]

 

Another FPN member talking about himself in the third person???

He has been doing it for years. No one seems to know why.

[pajaro]

He could write Farmboy's Commentaries On The Pen Wars.

 

Alle Pendom in tres partes divisa est . . .

[ac12]

Two problems with silicone grease are;

• it tends to migrate to where you don't want it, and
• it is VERY hard to remove it when you want to get rid of it.

[pajaro]

 

Two problems with silicone grease are;

• it tends to migrate to where you don't want it, and
• it is VERY hard to remove it when you want to get rid of it.

 

 

The above, and there is no need for it on this pen. This is the kind of thing one might do and then find cause for regret. When we are inexperienced we try some things that seem like good ideas, until one tries them. I have a certain horror about the prospect of getting silicone grease in the feed of an expensive pen. With Esterbrook you could generally replace the nib unit, but if it's a 9312, good luck with that.

[JakobS]

The SM Deluxe is one of my top three favorite Esterbrook models. A little heat does go a long way, and these models are known to take a little more time to remove the section and put it back in. I would agree with others in dusting the sac in pure talcum powder, also really give it a close look to insure no part is getting tacky or looking thinner than any other, even when sacs look intact a few fills will provide enough force to fully degrade weak areas such as around the sac nipple. Enjoy!

Edited August 15, 2017 by JakobS

[ac12]

As for the sac, I was given this advice that I follow:

• When you get a pen, you have no idea how old that sac in the pen is. It could be 2 months old or 50 years old.
• Even if the 50 year old sac feels flexible, it could fail tomorrow or next week. Rubber ages with time.
• A new sac costs about $2. That is pretty cheap insurance against a sac failure.
  I resac my own pens, so the cost is significantly less than sending the pen to a pen tech for resacing.

• An ink sac failure in your pocket or purse will make much more than $2 of damage.
  Last time I looked a good dress shirt was over $50.

So my SOP when I get a sac pen is to replace the sac, even if it feels fine, as I don't know how old that sac is.

The only exception is when I KNOW that the seller has just replaced the sac.

When in doubt, I replace the sac.

Edited August 16, 2017 by ac12

[AL01]

The SM Deluxe is one of my top three favorite Esterbrook models. A little heat does go a long way, and these models are known to take a little more time to remove the section and put it back in. I would agree with others in dusting the sac in pure talcum powder, also really give it a close look to insure no part is getting tacky or looking thinner than any other, even when sacs look intact a few fills will provide enough force to fully degrade weak areas such as around the sac nipple. Enjoy!

 

You can also put some pencil graphite in a bag, smash it till it's a fine powder, and coat the sac with that.

 

It won't hurt your pen....

 

110% satisfaction guaranteed.

[corgicoupe]

Or get a tube of powdered graphite at the hardware store; it's often used to lubricate lock mechanisms.