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Wet Noodle Or Just Superflex?


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As I am new to this vintage flex stuff and my only flex experience is relatively stiff steel flex nibs e.g. No name dip pen; so to get to the point is a waterman vintage superflex stiffer than a wet noodle and better for me to handle, or is a wet noodle manageable for someone with no previous experience of them?

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A 'wet noodle' is HARD to use.

There is such a thing as "too soft/flexy."

I've used such soft dip pen nibs, and it is HARD to write with it. You NEED a VERY LIGHT hand, especially on the upstroke.

 

I suggest starting off with dip pens. If you can handle a soft dip pen nib, then you can try a soft flex nib fountain pen.

 

Remember if you spring the flex fountain pen nib, it will cost you $150+ to replace it. And you need a pen tech to do it for you.

It is a LOT cheaper to replace a $2 dip pen nib, and you can do it yourself.

Edited by ac12

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As I am new to this vintage flex stuff and my only flex experience is relatively stiff steel flex nibs e.g. No name dip pen; so to get to the point is a waterman vintage superflex stiffer than a wet noodle and better for me to handle, or is a wet noodle manageable for someone with no previous experience of them?

 

 

Depending on your skill, it could be neither of those are manageable for you.

 

 

How light is your touch? There is no way for us to tell. You'll have to try and see if you break the nib, splatter ink everywhere, or write perfectly.

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How soft compared to modern omas milord nib?

 

No idea how soft that nib is.

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omas milord nib.....Not even semi-flex according to my reading.

 

I'm a firm believer of working one's way up the flex ladder. Semi-flex if not too narrow can handle the ham fisted.......took me three months to lighten my Hand, from the normal Death Grip, with Kung Fu Thumb Pinch, so I wasn't always maxing the nib.

It was good so, in my next pen was a 400nn in maxi-semi-flex....which I don't know but suspect could survive the ham fisted.............not the Jack Hammer guys though.

 

I do suggest getting a 'true' regular flex first....something that was issued by many companies out side of US made Parker** or Lamy. Sheaffer had that then normal issue along with nail nibs too. In the early '50's a rare semi-flex also.

Esterbrook had nibs from nail to a very hard semi-flex.

'80s-97 M400 and the 200 are 'true' regular flex.

I keep saying true regular flex, in I don't want any body new to pens thinking the modern semi-nail and nail, normal issue is regular flex; just because that is what they know as normal issue.

 

Some folks coming over from nail and semi-nail have actually thought 'true' regular flex nibs to be semi-flex....in the tines bent and spread! :yikes:

They are not, semi-flex reaches the max 3 X tine spread vs a light down stroke with half the pressure of a well mashed 'true' regular flex needs.

 

'True' regular flex, semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex belong to a 3 X max tine spread set. Superflex has rarely 4X, mostly 5-6 X and rare 7X.

It too according to my system of halves has three stages. Easy Full Flex, Wet Noodle and Weak Kneed Wet Noodle....which is rare....and luckily I don't have any, nor do I want any. It would require me to learn to write.

 

Stiff Italic nib and Wet Noodles require you to learn how to Draw the letter, and practice. :angry: :wacko:

 

 

Once you can handle a semi-flex...and give your self a few months to stop pressing hard, you could look for superflex that are not Wet Noodles.

 

**(English Parker made that in regular flex for a P-45....and in semi-flex for the Jr. Duofold.)

 

The best advice was given, buy some dip pen nibs, there are those that are Wet Noodles, and then ones like the Hunt 99-100-101 that make wet noodles look uncooked. They flex when there is an Earthquake in California.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I love flex, but I've run across a few nibs that were too flexible for my essentially uneducated hand. Conversely, I have a couple of pens with semi-flex nibs that are great writers, by which I mean that they produce a very pretty line with minimal adjustment.

It's a complex balance of size, shape and metallurgy: try as many pens as you can. It's an adventure.

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As is usually the case, Mr. Olson is doing a disservice to the English language with his terminology, which does NOT follow any kind of cohesive or cogent codification of flexibility, from no flexation at all to maximum flexation. Someday, I hope that Mr. Olson will take a good hard look at his terminology and rethink the terms he has chosen.

 

The fact that the OP is trying to choose between two terms which really have no way of specifying their characteristics (unless one determines a wet noodle to be the most flexible possible nib with the least amount of force), which indicates - once again - that the terminology is woefully inadequate for intelligent discussion.

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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Now I know why I've had JonSzanto on my ignore list for many years....

Jon, if you were able to do better...???? You've had 6 years to do better. Do you have a set of terms that you can use? Rather, that anyone else can use?

 

I have a system that explains it's self...if one has a 'true' regular flex nib....and a semi-flex nib....the rest work out fine with 1/2 the pressure needed from each flex range above.

If one has the basic semi-vintage or vintage 'true' regular flex nib (Of many US or British makers)or a Pelikan 200 (‘80s-97 400’s, 381 or Celebry pens), it's easy to see if a nib is semi-flex or not.

 

I do keep saying 'true' regular flex for the old fashioned once normal issue regular flex, in some folks coming in from nail and semi-nail, because the tines actually bend and spread, think a 'true' regular flex is semi-flex. It's not.

 

Outside the 200 and perhaps Aurora....not counting their return to semi-flex after a decade away.....modern regular issue is nail and semi-nail.

 

I will admit in I had the pens&nibs, and when exposed to a Rupp nib, I invented the term maxi-semi-flex...in I now have some 16 of them so am sure the flex set exists. Osmia Surpa nibs are maxi-semi-flex, the Osmia Diamond nibs are semi-flex

.... I have 26 semi-flex, and can feel the difference on thumbnail and paper.

 

I may have had the pens many were missing so could see a simple connection of pressure needed subjectively to judge a flex set that and was OCD enough to care. Others might have been failing one of the two.

 

I've explained my system often enough. Will do it again and again. You know the old saying, 'You can lead a xxx to water, but you can't make him drink.'

I also invented the term I use in Superflex; Easy Full Flex. *** I have 4-5 of those pens and a hand full of nibs of that flex. And it fits my system of 1/2s. Do read my signature.

 

I only have two Wet Noodles in I'm not willing to put in the work to master them. I say that always....one needs to learn to Draw the letters to get all one can out of Superflex.

 

Oxonian/John Sorowka a professional English nib grinder, who once ground nibs for Conway Stewart, invented the term Weak Kneed Wet Noodle. A third definition in the Superflex set. I don't have any of them, nor want any.

I do have dip pens that make a Wet Noodle look uncooked. Mauricio is much more knowledgeable than me. For those with many Superflex nibs, my 'system' is too simplistic. His blog is a great read....and the long fiddling required in fitting the nib exactly right to the feed and section makes a great difference to how flexible a Superflex nib is. I'd not dream.....It would be a nightmare to be so stupid as to take the nib out of the Waterman I have from him.

 

But my system is a guide for those just getting into nibs more flexible than nail and semi-nail, works all the way out to Wet Noodle, I think my system works just fine. In fact I've not run into anyone's system ...only mine. Had I ran into anyone's system...I'd not had to develop mine.

The advantage I had was I had old style regular flex nibs and semi-flex nibs before I ran into that Rupp nib....that certainly was maxi-semi-flex. 1/2,1/2, and 1/2 again less pressure needed to get 3X tine spread...........(Yep, I'm sure a BBB won't give give 3 X tine spread, and an EF could get more.(but why?)

From there to the three stages of Superflex was but a skip and a jump.

 

zzzzzzzzzz

Sundowner, someone had a very good post where he showed the 1930's Waterman nib makers were more interested in tine bend, and not tine spread. ...looking for a 3X tine spread. I mention that occasionally too.

 

That many nibs are over stressed (perhaps even sprung) especially with pen sellers doing videos forcing nibs to do Olympic Splits. I do have some experience with feel of how far tines can be spread. I have an Easy Full Flex Pelikan 100n that will go 5 X, I strive to never take it more than 4 X....just like my 'rare' 7X Waterman, where I think 5 to a max of 6 is quite enough. (I really have to sweat to make my Hand light enough to get XXF, and think to get EF…when just scribbling I’m still a tad heavy handed, so it writes often to an F….or EF/F.)

 

I was very impressed by the article by Richard Binder of 'how spring your nib'....he has a different name for that article, but I suggest folks read that, quite often, when I speak of Superflex. Actually, now that my Hand is lighter, do tell folks not to max their semi or maxi-semi-flex out to 3 X all the time.....an occasional descender works well enough.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Now I know why I've had JonSzanto on my ignore list for many years....

Jon, if you were able to do better...???? You've had 6 years to do better. Do you have a set of terms that you can use?

 

Maybe I already posted something but you had me on ignore and didn't see it? In any event, I'll post something later. I noticed, in spite of another wall of text, you not only didn't reply to any specifics but just made another post that doesn't clarify *anything* regarding your taxonomy of nib terms. Language is hard.

 

 

The obsession with attempting to categorise the degree of flexation, or any of its associated characteristics, is a modern one. And somewhat pointless in my opinion.

 

I tend to agree. I prefer a few basic terms, with additional modifiers that describe the width of the written line from narrow to wide. Being that all nib flexion is a continuum, it is pretty well impossible to nail it.

 

I see what I did there... ;)

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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Interesting.

Jon-I like the word taxonomy.

 

Freddie--Would like to hear your assessment of this thread.

 

Farmboy

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Jon, not in regular flex, semi or maxi-semi-flex. Most of them clump together.

 

Superflex has much more variation in flex, yet some are near to the 'norm's' I talk about. The 'norms' work @ in my system of halfs....and in fountain pens @ is as close as you are going to get, in flex and nib width.

 

I've stated often, it's good for beginners in superflex, unless if one has many. I have 5-6 in Easy Full Flex....and could have more if I wanted to yank some nibs....but I don't have the feeds for them. Superflex requires a faster feed.

I could have bought more Wet Noodles.........and I have seen and tested on my thumb nail at a live auction a '20's MB Safety Pen that was a Weak Kneed Wet Noodle.......it went for much more than I could afford.

 

 

Derision of what you can't better is all you can do, Jon.

 

When I came on the com, all was used was semi-flex and 'flexi' and-or Superflex, and the last two interchangeably. Flex or Flexi is no definition or too broad to be of any use, in some folks use that for semi-flex also. Especially 'noobie's'. Which can be expected of them.

 

When I found that Rupp nib, I was able to see what I then called 'flexi'/maxi-semi-flex as a set. I had thought that was what they meant by 'flexi'....in they didn't define.Then a bit later I left 'flexi' out in it blurred my definition.

There was and is a flex set between semi-flex and superflex.

 

What are you going to call an Osmia Supra nib, Jon?

Or the about 1 in 5 of my limited collection of 40 nibs that are semi-flex and or semi-flex +.

My 1 in 5 is adjusted to ignore my Osmia's. I do have maxi-semi-flex in Pelikan, Geha and MB.

By having Osmia in my WOG would end up 26 semi-flex and 16 maxi-semi-flex which would skew reality.

With an Osmia I can pick, semi-flex or maxi....I can't do that with any other pen.

 

In '50-65 Pelikan of the semi-flex era, I have two 140 semi-flex, three 400's.

One Ibis, 400nn, and a 500 in maxi.

In Geha one in 5 (not counting school pens...just like I didn't count a 120.), In MB a semi-flex...one in the middle** and a Maxi.....but I am more picky in MB in I didn't want a whole lot of them.....three from the '50-60's era....one regular flex from the '70-80s, and one modern from 2006. And a nail 320 school pen.

(**the only one I have like that...and I thought it maxi until I tested the nib vs other semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex.

I do have a no name semi-flex that is out of the main grouping more towards regular flex...out of 26. Mostly they group together.)

 

 

I don't want folks use to nails ruining nibs that spread their tines and bend to various degrees, in they don't understand some of the limits. "Gee...it said Flex....(and didn't read the small print....semi....almost) and it's sprung." "Gee....the guy in the video....got lots of line variation and it even sprang back." :doh: Once, twice....perhaps thrice.

 

Jargon are the definitions used with a field; that should be understood by those in the field. 'Flexi' is not jargon, in it has no definitions.

 

So instead of saying what you, Jon seem to like...."is flexi ....or superflex?????." I invented a term that fit. Maxi-semi-flex...which as I explain is in the 3 X tine spread set. So folks don't think they should make a nib do Olympic Splits.

 

Semi-nail with pressure is still 2 X tine spread....very little tine bend. Nail is 1X unless you bench 450 pounds. If so, it's soon to be called sprung. I don't have them in my 'flex' system....in they lack flex.

 

 

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Jon, not in regular flex, semi or maxi-semi-flex. Most of them clump together.

 

Superflex has much more variation in flex, yet some are near to the 'norm's' I talk about. The 'norms' work @ in my system of halfs....and in fountain pens @ is as close as you are going to get, in flex and nib width.

 

I've stated often, it's good for beginners in superflex, unless if one has many. I have 5-6 in Easy Full Flex....and could have more if I wanted to yank some nibs....but I don't have the feeds for them. Superflex requires a faster feed.

I could have bought more Wet Noodles.........and I have seen and tested on my thumb nail at a live auction a '20's MB Safety Pen that was a Weak Kneed Wet Noodle.......it went for much more than I could afford.

 

 

Derision of what you can't better is all you can do, Jon.

 

When I came on the com, all was used was semi-flex and 'flexi' and-or Superflex, and the last two interchangeably. Flex or Flexi is no definition or too broad to be of any use, in some folks use that for semi-flex also. Especially 'noobie's'. Which can be expected of them.

 

When I found that Rupp nib, I was able to see what I then called 'flexi'/maxi-semi-flex as a set. I had thought that was what they meant by 'flexi'....in they didn't define.Then a bit later I left 'flexi' out in it blurred my definition.

There was and is a flex set between semi-flex and superflex.

 

What are you going to call an Osmia Supra nib, Jon?

Or the about 1 in 5 of my limited collection of 40 nibs that are semi-flex and or semi-flex +.

My 1 in 5 is adjusted to ignore my Osmia's. I do have maxi-semi-flex in Pelikan, Geha and MB.

By having Osmia in my WOG would end up 26 semi-flex and 16 maxi-semi-flex which would skew reality.

With an Osmia I can pick, semi-flex or maxi....I can't do that with any other pen.

 

In '50-65 Pelikan of the semi-flex era, I have two 140 semi-flex, three 400's.

One Ibis, 400nn, and a 500 in maxi.

In Geha one in 5 (not counting school pens...just like I didn't count a 120.), In MB a semi-flex...one in the middle** and a Maxi.....but I am more picky in MB in I didn't want a whole lot of them.....three from the '50-60's era....one regular flex from the '70-80s, and one modern from 2006. And a nail 320 school pen.

(**the only one I have like that...and I thought it maxi until I tested the nib vs other semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex.

I do have a no name semi-flex that is out of the main grouping more towards regular flex...out of 26. Mostly they group together.)

 

 

I don't want folks use to nails ruining nibs that spread their tines and bend to various degrees, in they don't understand some of the limits. "Gee...it said Flex....(and didn't read the small print....semi....almost) and it's sprung." "Gee....the guy in the video....got lots of line variation and it even sprang back." :doh: Once, twice....perhaps thrice.

 

Jargon are the definitions used with a field; that should be understood by those in the field. 'Flexi' is not jargon, in it has no definitions.

 

So instead of saying what you, Jon seem to like...."is flexi ....or superflex?????." I invented a term that fit. Maxi-semi-flex...which as I explain is in the 3 X tine spread set. So folks don't think they should make a nib do Olympic Splits.

 

Semi-nail with pressure is still 2 X tine spread....very little tine bend. Nail is 1X unless you bench 450 pounds. If so, it's soon to be called sprung. I don't have them in my 'flex' system....in they lack flex.

 

 

 

Wiskey Tango Foxtrot?

Edited by FarmBoy

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Wiskey Tango Foxtrot?

Gotta teach the boy from the farm to spell...

 

Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? +1

 

And, on the topic, the world has wanted to comprehend the nature of the BoBo Scale and its taxonomy as being mutually exclusive, collectively exhaustive, and scientifically based. Theres a few companies in Germany that may be able help with that last part.

 

Until then, the world will continue to wait.

MB JFK BB; 100th Anniversary M; Dumas M FP/BP/MP set; Fitzgerald M FP/BP/MP set; Jules Verne BB; Bernstein F; Shaw B; Schiller M; yellow gold/pearl Bohème Pirouette Lilas (custom MB-fitted EF); gold 744-N flexy OBB; 136 flexy OB; 236 flexy OBB; silver pinstripe Le Grand B; 149 F x2; 149 M; 147 F; 146 OB; 146 M; 146 F; 145P M; 162 RB
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Watch, Tare, Fox is the way I learned it when learning my Alphabet back in the day of small screen B&W TV. Back when Miami had only two TV stations.

 

If you have a better system Ismith....or any one else.....trot it out.

Seeing you don't......snide remark removed to please the censor.

 

Manifold nibs, nails, no tine spread. 1X.....can be sprung if pressed into more than 1/2 X tine spread. (And by the way one sided carbon paper was developed in @ 1866/7. Before that they had two sided carbon papers and sent the carbon and not the original, which had a carbon copy on the back of the invoice, to prove the paperwork was done. So the excuse of carbon paper as why the nails came in in the '30's won't fly.)

 

Semi-nail, will under pressure/well mashed spread tines to 2 X a light down stroke. Like a P-75.

 

3 X tine spread set: 'true' regular flex, semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex.After 3 X tine spread one risks springing the nib.

 

'True' regular flex....once normal issue, until too many ham fisted ball point barbarians made pretzels out of their nibs and the companies in self deference went over to stiffer nibs...mid '90's. When well mashed will spread it's tines 3X a light down stroke. Many vintage and semi-vintage pens have this flex, Pelikan 200 has it now.

 

Semi-flex needs only 1/2 the pressure to reach 3 X a light down stroke as an old fashioned, regular flex.

Often is German (and stubbish) up to @ 1970. Aurora was semi-flex until a decade ago and seems to have come back with one. One can find a rare Sheaffer Snorkel in Semi-flex and the Wahl-Eversharp of the '40's.

 

 

Maxi-semi-flex needs 1/2 the pressure of a semi-flex to reach 3 X....or 1/4th the pressure needed to mash a regular flex to 3 X tine spread.

A term invented by me after running into a Rupp nib that certainly was maxi-semi-flex, and finding I did have similar with just a slight tad less flex than the Rupp, but were of much easier tine spread than my semi-flex. The from what I understood then....it had to be the 'flexi' nib no one defined. It certainly was a maxi-semi-flex, as where the other 4 I already had and hadn't defined. I was rather 'noobie'.

If you wish to be old fashioned and ill defined, feel free, 'flexi' has a long vague history.

 

Seems rather dumb to say, this semi-flex is much more flexi than that one......when one can in no one else had much interest at the time in vintage German pens, define 'flexi' and have clarity. That is a maxi-semi-flex....and not """seems sort of flexi to me :unsure: ....perhaps it's superflex. :doh: """

If one defines superflex as more than 3X tine spread....and being even easier to spread it's tines than semi-flex, it's not.

 

Superflex is normally (outside of an Ahab...which needs semi-flex pressure to flex it's tines,) requires less pressure than a maxi, and spreads it's tines, a few only 4 X, mostly 5-6 X. The fabled 7 X tine spread is rare.

 

As a guide to beginners........and having a number of nibs that do this, did so. (5 pens, & a hand full of nibs.)

Easy Full Flex, requires 1/2 the pressure to spread it's tines to it's max, than a maxi-semi-flex, or 1/8th the pressure needed by a well mashed regular flex to reach 3X. I will admit to having invented that term also, in they are not Wet Noodles. Just a nib that reaches it's full tine spread, easily.

 

Wet Noodle, 1/2 of that, or 1/16th the pressure needed to max a regular flex.

 

Weak Kneed Wet Noodle, less than that....how much less I don't know and always say so but it was a term invented by Oxonian/John Sorowka.

I have tested a nib of a 1920's MB Safety Pen, but didn't have a Wet Noodle with me in the Auction house to compare. It was a :yikes: :notworthy1: :drool: :puddle: nib that at least matched some of my middle flex Dip pen nibs....perhaps a Soennecken dip pen nib. Not quite a Hunt 99-100-101.

 

"Springy" good tine bend, more than 'true' regular flex, 2 X tine spread, like the Falcon, modern MB nibs and the very fine Lamy Imporium...IMO better than MB. They have better tine bend than a 'true' regular flex, but don't reach semi-flex ease...............outside perhaps the Imporium. A tad more tine spread and that nib would be semi-flex. :crybaby:

In my system is about tine spread and ease of tine spread, I always mention this nib set as stand alone. Outside the Imporium, they do not reach semi-flex tine bend ease.

 

I find the 1/2 system; easy, well defined and works for me. But then again, I have enough pens other than nail and semi-nail nibs.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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As I am new to this vintage flex stuff and my only flex experience is relatively stiff steel flex nibs e.g. No name dip pen; so to get to the point is a waterman vintage superflex stiffer than a wet noodle and better for me to handle, or is a wet noodle manageable for someone with no previous experience of them?

 

 

A 'wet noodle' in my experience (which is of course entirely subjective and personal to me) is exactly what it says; a wet noodle. It takes little to no pressure at all for the tines to start spreading quite significantly. I love mine (in a Waterman 52) but it is a devil to write with. It needs a lot of control, quite a swift hand and a very, very light touch. I have had it for about four or five years now and it is regularly inked but I have yet to get anything out of it in terms of writing that I find satisfying. It needs a lot of skill and experience which I just don't have.

 

In that regard it is not at all like an Omas Milord. Modern Omas nibs are a delight, but not flexible. Some can be quite soft. The stub nibs have a bit of bounce which is rather pleasant, but still not what you'd call flexible. They also made an extra flessibile nib that was meant to be flexible. They are very nice also and with a soft, bouncy touch. Flex that thing and it will spring.

 

As someone upthread mentioned; grab a cheap dip nib holder and buy some flexible dip nibs (I think I started a thread a long time back asking what dip nibs were flexible and got one invaluable info from a very helpful member here, so if you search it should come up). The Brause Rose and Blue Pumpkin are both readily available and not too expensive. It would be a good place to start before you put down a serious amount of cash and discover it isn't for you.

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It's a very agreeable article on over stressing a Superflex nib. As I mentioned to you, the fine thread where someone else said, Waterman of the '30's was more into nib flex than tine spread.

 

"""highly convoluted method of classification,""" I don't find it the least convoluted, but then again I have the pens to see the system I developed. That is easy to comprehend. 1/2 less pressure than the nib set before it; starting with the old fashioned regular flex.

.

If your assortment of pens are lacking, then, it would be difficult, especially if set in your ways; of not needing any classification. There is a large gap between nail&semi-nail and superflex. There are levels of flex in Superflex, that blure with enough Superflex. But for those who are starting into Superflex, I find my flex sets with in Superflex good enough for a Superflex 'noobie'.

I never over state my experience.

 

Having seen the prices charged in the States for a basic German semi-flex nibbed pen, can understand an unwillingness to spend money on something unknown.

 

Though I don't understand someone from England, not taking advantage of the German market back when the pound was strong before Brexit.

 

I do and always recommend the Geha 790 as the Best Buy in semi-flex at 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of a Pelikan 140 or '50-65 400/400nn. It is a solid finely made, well balanced torpedo shaped pen of the era of that kind of Swan, and the 400nn, and 146/9. The price has jumped in the last couple of years from E19-30, to E40-60.....more if one is stupid enough to 'Buy Now'. I have three and a 760. The nibs are a slight tad better than Pelikan. Two respected posters reported that, and I tested that my self.

 

Having read about semi-flex first on this com, at a flea market, I tested a 140's semi-flex nib :puddle: on my thumbnail, and suddenly knew what all the fuss was all about.

 

Wanting more than that in flex, chased Swan 'flexi' pens so slowly I didn't buy one ***, in I ran into a German War pen, that had the "flexi" nib I was looking for. It was, as I later determined an Easy Full Flex, Superflex.

You see even with the two real good Swan repair/sellers in GB, they were not very defined to exactly how 'flexi' the nibs were on the pens they were selling. An exact terminology hadn't existed.

 

*** With Swan, I had to find out which highly convoluted filling system they developed to get around better patents. Eventually deciding to chase the early '50's Torpedo lever pens as better and simpler to repair, with some sort of 'flexi' Swan nib. I may have been as still sort of 'noobie' satisfied with a "flexi" nib....and in hope it was more than semi-flex. It could well have been just semi-flex, it could have been Superflex....though no one mentioned Wet Noodle when describing Swan.

 

In I didn't 'know' I could have gotten a maxi-semi-flex instead of some sort of Superflex like a Easy Full Flex, and been disappointed the nib didn't spread it's tines over 3X. The Gee that is just like my 400nn OF, or one of my Geha 790's an EF....not 'flexi' at all.

 

That was before I bought that Rupp nib and 'discovered' maxi-semi-flex. There is slight variance in maxi-semi-flex....I had thought up a real convoluted system to measure that but decided it was unworkable due to needing a good hand full of maxi-semi-flex pens to even think about using. Thirdly, it wasn't necessary, to measure such small differences. F-1 (2). F-1 1/4th (2) & the Rupp F-1 1/2, which opened my eyes to the term 'maxi-semi-flex'. The Rupp nib is still my most flexible of my 16 maxi-semi-flex nibbed pens.

 

It's real simple to find a maxi-semi-flex....buy an Osmia Supra nibbed pen.....beats lucking into a Pelikan, Geha or MB maxi-semi-flex.

I don't know how what flex rate a Swan 'flexi' is....I don't have any.

 

If you read my signature, I do recommend Mauricio more than me, when it comes to Superflex, in if one has enough Superflex there is more variation in that set, that goes past my 'noobie' help of what sort of Superflex do I have.

 

1/2 less pressure per flex stage of semi-vintage or vintage or 200 Pelikan regular flex, up the flex ladder is easy to comprehend....if one wants.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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What's the difference between Old Smuggler blended Scotch and better? Something that is learned, if one wishes.

Lots of folks tried Old Smuggler and decided scotch was a waste of Bourbon or Rum money.

 

I know of a respected poster who jumped into 'flex' of some sort and found he didn't like it and went back to nails.

He did that quite a while ago before I started developing my system. And I do always suggest working one's way up the flex ladder, instead of jumping into the deep end of the superflex pool without water wings. All I did was label the rungs of the ladder.

 

I really don't expect many people to use my system when talking here, in they often lack the pens to talk about. Half the posts are about cheap replacement nibs.

I do hope I make them aware there is more than one type of tree in the forest before them.

 

I've talked to enough folks back channel that know what I talk about....( :rolleyes: Of course I've been talking about it quite a while.)

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I'll take a double, no ice.

 

WAIT: make it a double on the rocks.

Edited by FarmBoy

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next “Funnest Pen Show” is on schedule for August 23-24-25, 2024.  Watch the show website for registration details. 
 

My PM box is usually full. Just email me: my last name at the google mail address.

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Old fashioned regular flex......what I have to us as qualify regular issue with, like 'true' regular flex so folks won't think their now regular issue nail and semi-nail is 'regular flex' because it's regularly on a modern fountain pen......some to many Shaffer nibs, assorted Esterbrook nibs, or the basic Wearever nib....the '80's-97 Pelikan nibs, MB '70-80's nibs. Nibs of regular flex before the mid '90's when nail and semi-nail became normal issue.

 

Sheaffer made nail, regular flex and in the early '50's rarely semi-flex. In Australia because of Swan pens, made a maxi-semi-flex BB factory Stup.

Now that was a pleasant shock. They had to match Swan's 'flexi' nibs.

 

Esterbrook's "semi-flex" is more an almost instead of a real semi-flex from my reading on them. Having real semi-flex never chased them back when I had a slew of Esterbrooks. (11) Some were regular flex as expected, some were manifold/nail....

The '60's ugly metal capped Esterbrook or Wearevers were regular flex on the whole back then. Sheaffer also in the affordable price range. The normal issue could be had in a nib with some spring to it.

 

Why no Parker? They made basically nails and an occasional semi-nail like a P-75.

 

There are heavy handed folks that come from nail that think regular flex to be semi-flex in the tines bend :o ...and not only that they spread. :yikes: Got to be semi-flex. It don't even take two hands to make the nib 'flex'. :headsmack:

Part of my preaching is to keep nibs from being sprung due to ignorance of flex rate. I do to 90% of the time refer to Richard's article on how to spring your nib.

He's got a different name for it.

 

Everyone who has been on the com knows there is variation of width in tolerance today. I can well understand not every nib made during an era is the same in it's flex rate. That is why I invented the term maxi-semi-flex. They seem to be in German '50-60's era semi-flex fountain pens seem to be 1 in 5...as mentioned...out side of Osmia. The maxi-semi-flex group is @ together....closer as a group of maxi's, than to whop them into semi-flex...................of course you can call them 'flexi'.....is that semi-flexi?**....not quite so flexi....superflex? Define if you can.

I can.

 

I remember a poster saying he had nibs from Pelikan I think it was that he had one that wasn't as flexible as his other semi-flex...............before I developed the idea of maxi-semi-flex. Then I could only puzzle. Now I could tell him, he had a maxi and a semi.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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