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Proper Use Of Pilot Con-70


NewPenMan

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I have a couple of pilot pens, each with a Con-70 convertor. The convertors work well enough, I think, but my technique could be better.

 

I fill the plastic ink sample vials of the type sold by Goulet, then fill my pens from those vials. The diameter is fine for any of my pens, except for peering down into them when I have my to-be-filled pen inside -- I can really see accurately how deep into the ink the nib and feed are.

 

I try to get the nib submerged before I begin to press the button, and I hear the "squee-tchee, squee-tchee, squee-tchee," see ink rise in the convertor, then fall, press the button a few more times, get some ink in there, then pull out and wipe the pen

 

I dont get a full fill, and what ink is in there is full of bubbles, which tells me I'm sucking up as much or more air as ink.

 

I'm not crazy about dipping the pen so deeply that it's submerged to the section; it's really a mess, plus I feel that I'd be wasting a lot of ink wiped off on my ink cloth.

 

Is this simply the way it is with the Con-70, or are there tips anyone can share as to how to get a complete fill, free of bubbles and without dipping so deeply that I have to wipe off so much ink?

 

Thank you!

Edited by NewPenMan

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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Hi NPM,

 

I understand what you're trying to do, but to get a decent fill... especially with a button-filler... you need to submerge the nib and feed completely, (past the air intake at the base of the exposed part of the feed), in an ocean of ink. :D

 

Also remember, with button-fillers you cannot help but jerk around a little... doing that from a sample vial... you're gonna have problems.

 

Be well and enjoy life. :)

 

 

- Anthony

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Hi NPM,

I understand what you're trying to do, but to get a decent fill... especially with a button-filler... you need to submerge the nib and feed completely, (past the air intake at the base of the exposed part of the feed), in an ocean of ink. :D

Also remember, with button-fillers you cannot help but jerk around a little... doing that from a sample vial... you're gonna have problems.

Be well and enjoy life. :)

- Anthony

Ok then is there a better container to use with a button filler? Im trying to practice good pen hygiene by protecting my main ink bottle; nothing goes in, and ink only comes out. Edited by NewPenMan

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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fpn_1502069770__20170806_1826561.jpg

fpn_1502069786__20170806_1827121.jpg

fpn_1502069802__screenshot-37.jpg

 

 

 

A Goulet sample vial fits perfectly into the opening of a Visconti plastic ink bottle. This setup provides all the stability one needs to fill any pen or converter from a Goulet vial, even a Con-70—especially a Con-70. I keep Visconti empties anyway; there are worse bottle designs out there; I transfer good ink from bad bottles and jars into empty Visconti bottles and label the outside with the new ink. If you use Goulet sample vials to store ink, the next time you have a chance to toss an empty Visconti bottle into the wastebasket: don't.

 

NewPenMan: As ParkerDuofold says, you gotta submerge that nib all the way. Doing what you have to do to completely fill a converter isn't a waste of ink but the cost of doing business. Good night, and good luck.

Edited by Bookman

I love the smell of fountain pen ink in the morning.

 

 

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As long as the vial will hold enough to not drain below the filler hole as you fill, I don't think the vial is the problem per se, but might make it harder to avoid the difficulties.

 

Keep in mind that the way that filler works is to expel air and suck in ink, and the expulsion of air is in bursts rather than a slow, steady stream like a piston filler. Thus, you're gonna get bubbles. The only way I can think to lessen it might be to push the plunger before inserting the nib the first time, but that's not gonna be easy.

 

the only alternate is to fill the converter with a syringe or pipette and then install it in the pen - you won't likely get more ink this way (since it leaves the feed empty), so I'd say just accept the bubbles.

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It depends on which pen you are filling.

 

If you are filling a Pilot Custom 74 or anything similar to the Custom family, you only need to submerge up to the breather hole.

 

 

Hi NPM,

I understand what you're trying to do, but to get a decent fill... especially with a button-filler... you need to submerge the nib and feed completely, (past the air intake at the base of the exposed part of the feed), in an ocean of ink. :D

Also remember, with button-fillers you cannot help but jerk around a little... doing that from a sample vial... you're gonna have problems.

Be well and enjoy life. :)


- Anthony

 

But, moving on, when you press the button the Con-70, make sure you press the button quickly and let the button rise quickly. You'll get a fuller fill.

 

I have multiple Pilot Custom 74s and a Pilot Custom 743 and I get complete fills every time.

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If you have about seven minutes to spare, watch the video I have linked below. It'll explain some issues you might be having.

 

Also, try only submerging it to the breather hole (not in the video).

 

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It depends on which pen you are filling.

 

If you are filling a Pilot Custom 74 or anything similar to the Custom family, you only need to submerge up to the breather hole.

 

 

 

 

But, moving on, when you press the button the Con-70, make sure you press the button quickly and let the button rise quickly. You'll get a fuller fill.

 

I have multiple Pilot Custom 74s and a Pilot Custom 743 and I get complete fills every time.

 

Yes, just watched brian's video on the con 70 and had to laugh as he showed the super slow mo way most ppl do it..said to myself: that's me!!!!!

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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Ok just did the 742, pushed the button fast with the entire feed submerged...same bubbly results...

 

Sigh...

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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Hmm... Make sure that the "floaty thing*" is moving freely before you attempt to fill.

 

*Yes, that is the official name of it.

 

Ok just did the 742, pushed the button fast with the entire feed submerged...same bubbly results...

Sigh...

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Hmm... Make sure that the "floaty thing*" is moving freely before you attempt to fill.

 

*Yes, that is the official name of it.

 

Ok will do.. brian did emphasize that bit's importance in the proper action.

 

Will be awhile...even an incomplete fill goes quite a way in these excellent pens...

 

***for information purposes, both the pens in question are Pilot Custom; a 74 and a 742.

Edited by NewPenMan

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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Hmm... Make sure that the "floaty thing*" is moving freely before you attempt to fill.

 

*Yes, that is the official name of it.

 

Hi NPM,

 

Yes, as O&A says, make sure the float, (or "floaty thing" ;) ), is moving freely,... I generally never have any trouble with the 70, unless the ink level in the bottle is getting low... then you might want to try an ink miser or Bookman's suggestion with the Visconti bottle.

 

If you hadn't already said you have two Con-70s... I'd suspect a defective unit... are they BOTH behaving this way? (In other words, maybe its just one defective unit being intermixed between the two pens).

 

 

Btw, if you're afraid of contaminating your ink... there's two things you can do to prevent this... one, wipe the section off with a moist towelette and then dry it off with a Kleenex, (I don't do this, but it's an idea I just had); or two, wipe the section off with a dry Kleenex before you dip it and add phenol to your inks... and after you've dipped the pen; fold the same Kleenex over and wipe off the section and the back of the nib... (I do, do this). :)

 

- Anthony

 

ETA: While I've only been using fps since late 2015; I've never had a bottle get mold or SITB since I've been adding the phenol. ;) (Available from Natural Pigments - just add around 3-5 drops per ink bottle, depending on the size).

Edited by ParkerDuofold
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To free it, all you have to do is shake the Con-70 until you see it move. Do not do it when there is ink inside of it.

 

And with both the Pilot Custom 74 and 742, you only need to submerge the breather hole is covered.

 

Ok will do.. brian did emphasize that bit's importance in the proper action.

Will be awhile...even an incomplete fill goes quite a way in these excellent pens...

***for information purposes, both the pens in question are Pilot Custom; a 74 and a 742.

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Thank you all for the helpful suggestions.. I'm going to be writing with the Customs exclusively to get another crack at it soon.

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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To free it, all you have to do is shake the Con-70 until you see it move. Do not do it when there is ink inside of it.

 

And with both the Pilot Custom 74 and 742, you only need to submerge the breather hole is covered.

 

Good to know. Thank you!

Franklin-Christoph Stabilis 66 and Pocket 40: both with Matsuyama CI | Karas Kustoms Aluminum, Daniel Smith CI | Italix Parson's Essential and Freshman's Notator | Pilot Prera | Pilot Metropolitan | Lamy Safari, 1.1mm italic | Muji "Round Aluminum Pen" | Waterman Phileas | Noodler's Konrad | Nemosine Singularity 0.6mm stub | ASA Nauka, acrylic and ebonite | Gama Hawk | Wality Airmail | Noodlers Ahab | TWSBI GO | Noodlers Charlie | Pilot Plumix |

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why is that necessary?

 

You mean to say you syringe out a sample vial full at a time and then fill from that to avoid putting your pen into ink bottle?

 

 

Ok then is there a better container to use with a button filler? Im trying to practice good pen hygiene by protecting my main ink bottle; nothing goes in, and ink only comes out.

Looking for a cap for a Sheaffer Touchdown Sentinel Deluxe Fat version

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I understand your concern about not contaminating your ink bottle, but ink in bottles is meant to have pen nibs dunked into it, and has inhibitors in there that stop mould growth. :)

 

If you're at all concerned then make sure your pen is really clean before you start and you should be OK. :)

 

Otherwise, add a little more to your sample vial so that your whole nib is submerged.

 

Even with some air bubbles in the converter, the ink fill will still last you a long time. It's just a case of refilling it maybe a day earlier than if you had no air bubbles at all. So I wouldn't worry about it. :)

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I understand your concern about not contaminating your ink bottle, but ink in bottles is meant to have pen nibs dunked into it, and has inhibitors in there that stop mould growth. :)

 

If you're at all concerned then make sure your pen is really clean before you start and you should be OK. :)

 

Yes. These are the points I was laboring to make above... make sure you're section has been sanitized before you dunk it...

 

...and if you're especially concerned... add a couple drops of readily available phenol* to your inks as SamCapote recommends after all the extensive research he did on the subject. :)

 

 

*: While inks to contain additives to prevent SITB/Mold formation; the problem still readily crops up because the people/environment friendly chemicals that are mandated in the US and much of Europe are not nearly as effective as the "old-school" additive... phenol... aka carbolic acid. :)

 

Phenol is still permitted in Asia... which is why Sailor and Pilot inks have that "unique aroma" and also why you never hear about them going bad. ;)

 

 

- Anthony

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An idea with no scientific support to back it up.

 

There is going to be a fixed amount of air that is expelled and a fairly fixed amount of bubbles created when you plunge the filler. In a sample vial as compared to something like a Private Reserve bottle, the bubbles have to pile up around the nib and section in a very small area. With the PR bottle, there is comparatively lots of space for the bubbles to spread out, in a thinner layer, over the surface of the ink. So you might have a lot more ink bubbles clustered around the breather hole and thus getting sucked in to your converter.

To hold a pen is to be at war. - Voltaire
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An idea with no scientific support to back it up.

 

There is going to be a fixed amount of air that is expelled and a fairly fixed amount of bubbles created when you plunge the filler. In a sample vial as compared to something like a Private Reserve bottle, the bubbles have to pile up around the nib and section in a very small area. With the PR bottle, there is comparatively lots of space for the bubbles to spread out, in a thinner layer, over the surface of the ink. So you might have a lot more ink bubbles clustered around the breather hole and thus getting sucked in to your converter.

Hi Ted, et al,

 

This makes sense to me, too. Without adequate dispersion area, the expelled air bubbles have no where else to go and get sucked back in... repeated pumps just cause a Domino Effect, exacerbating the problem.

 

- Anthony

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