Questions Regarding Flexible Nibs, And Others

[DingDongDingDong]

Hi,

 

I had bought a vintage flexible flat top red coral Wahl Eversharp Decoband (or gold Seal), It is currently on delivery.

After reading a lot of articles online, I got a sort of idea on how to write it, hopefully.

But i have several question. Any other tip works too, every help is useful and i am grateful for it !

 

- What is "Over Writers" ?

- How for can we flex it ?

(not an Olympic split, but i still don't know precisely)

- What is your writing speed ?

- Is it easy to fix a sprung flexible nib ?

(The only experience i have is fixing my misaligned Waterman 515 with a 20x loupe, cause i lend it to someone)

- Can we post a hard rubber or celluloid pen ?

- Can sunlight damage hard rubber or celluloid pen ?

- Is it true that Iroshizuku ink damage rubber sack ?

- Can i leave FP inked while in storage for a few months ?

 

 

Thank you

 

P.S. Sorry for my bad english or if it is already been answered before

[FarmBoy]

Good luck with your first vintage pen.

[mitto]

Let the pen arrive and then you may share with us some pics and your experience of writing with it.

 

Good luck.

[Chrissy]

I can't answer most of your questions. However, I would never leave any pen in direct sunlight. And I'm not sure if 'sprung' nibs are properly fixable.

 

Please let us see it when it arrives.

[birchtine]

I agree with Chrissy that no pen should be left exposed to direct sunlight.

 

Both celluloid and hard rubber pens can be posted but caps of older pens may be more brittle and prone to cracking.

 

I rather doubt that a rubber sac is at particular risk from most inks. As far as I remember the problem is rather in higher pH found in Japanese inks and its potentially damaging effect on vintage plastics. However, I have never stumbled on any convincing evidence to back this up. I admit I tend to avoid inks with high pH just to be on the safe side. On the other hand I have never heard of an ink of the pH higher than 9 which is not terribly alkaline. When using older plastic pens I'd rather avoid inks that are known to stain.

 

 

 

Whether to leave a pen for longer or not in my opinion depends on how airtight is a cap. If a pen doesn't normally dry up easily or you don't mind giving it a proper clean in the case the ink dries, I guess it's fine.

Edited July 22, 2017 by birchtine

[birchtine]

I spend a lot of time on tweaking my nibs and find flexible nibs particularly tricky to work on. A sprung nib usually can be straightened but the task may require some practice and tools. I guess it depends how persistent and brave you are but it's certainly not always easy and straightforward

[birchtine]

As far as I can understand the over writer term denotes someone whose hand follows a direction of writing in the way that the hand may touch freshly laid ink and cause smudging. It's mainly applicable to left handed writers and right handed people who writes right to left.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Over writers is a left hand mystery.......................some left handers should have absolutely nothing to do with superflex....a term I like much better than the real vague 'flex' . ....that some nail users actually use when the are actually talking about semi-flex rather than the much more flexible superflex nibs.

 

 

Noodlers inks is a Big No No for rubber sack pens....killing them within days or weeks .today's sub standard rubber sacks normally die within a decade....the old ones were good for 30-40 and more years.

 

Most standard or medium large pens were made to post, in it is then they have the balance a pen from that era needed to be sold. Just slip the cap on gently, don't go slapping it on with the palm of the hand.

Fear of mars.....after finger polishing a pen with something like Semi-chrome, wax the pen = no more mars.

Never Ever Brasso!!!!

 

3X a light down stroke should be about what you can flex....if the pen is '40's, when it was one of the few US pens that made semi-flex........if '30's ...when Eversharp and Waterman made more flexible nibs than just semi-flex, I'd not try to get more than 5X a light down stroke....only Once....to see where the max is......if 5 X then strive to keep the nib at 4X a light down stroke. If 6 X then five....and I doubt if you have a rare 7X tine spread pen....

 

A couple of weeks, six weeks is now a max of how long you can let the pen lay around with the same ink in it....un-used. If you are planning not to use the pen, dump the ink.....ink and 'that much' ink is cheap.....clean the pen using water, then store the pen.

 

Do Not Use Supersaturated Ink in a sac pen..........Noodlers, Japanese or any ones.

 

For $80+ a sprung nib can be somewhat 'repaired' but not being a repair man have my doubts that a superflex nib could be brought back to what it was before....perhaps 85% could be repaired too.

 

Go to Richard Binder's site the bible of fountain pens, nibs, feeds, good advice on ink.

He has an article of "How to Spring Your Nib in three easy lessons, " Actually that is not the name of it.....but since reading that I no longer max my flex all the time....in fact strive to never max at all...after the one time to see where max is. My Pelikan 100n, will go 5 X, so I don't take it over 4X as a max.

There one should have some experience to what that limit would be....a 'noobie' could easily say that is a (semi) Flex pen, so I can make it do Olympic Splits 5-6 X ....(or it could be a 4X superflex....possible.)

It is often talked about here, that many a nib is sprung by the seller showing it is a super duper 'flex' pen when it was perhaps only semi-flex....or a 5X superflex nib....that was over stressed out to the 'normal 7 X' ................seven X is rare.

[sidthecat]

Congratulations on your recent purchase. I'd observe that a Waterman 515 is certainly a vintage pen so you're already down the rabbit hole.

When you get your Wahl, you'll probably discover that it handles a lot like the Waterman. Press the nib lightly against your thumbnail and you'll get a good impression of how flexible it is. I'll emphasize "lightly", because you probably shouldn't press much harder than that when you write.

When you fill the pen, doing a series of ol' reliable figure-eights will give you a good idea of what the nib can do.

Have fun! Don't press too hard.

[ac12]

It is not a cheap dip pen nib, so BE CAREFUL.

 

Q-How much can you flex the nib?

There is no real way to tell you PRECISELY how much a particular nib will flex, before you spring it.

That is why it is recommended to be VERY GENTLE in how much you push/flex the nib. The more you use the pen, the more you get a feel for the nib, and how much it can flex. A big problem is that nibs don't always flex the same. Some nibs flex easily to start, then get stiff, others start stiff and get easier (this one is dangerous, it could also be a sprung nib), and some are easy all the way, and everything in between.

 

Q-How fast can you write.

Flex writing is SLOW, much slower than the average cursive writing speed, at least for me.

 

N-Holding the pen.

IDEALLY, you would hold the pen such that the axis of the nib is in line with the flexing down stroke.

This allows both tines to flex evenly.

If you are a rightie, and hold the pen in the tripod grip, the down stroke is really a diagonal stroke of the pen. This puts most of the flexing on the trailing tine. The problems is, that trailing tine is doing most of the flex, so a 2mm flex is mostly on that trailing tine. Whereas on an aligned nib, both tines spread evenly and on a 2mm flex, each tine flexes 1mm. So that 2mm flex on a diagonal stroke is like a 4mm flex on an aligned stroke, which is pretty abusive to the nib.

That is the reason some of us dip pen users use an oblique dip pen holder, to align the dip pen nib with the down stroke.

 

Q-Can a sprung nib be repaired?

From talking to a few people, it depends on the nib and the specific damage. Some nibs can be repaired others not so.

Part of the problem is the metal itself. If it has been fatigued or kinked, that is a weak spot that really can't be fixed. Think of bending a paper clip several times, as you bend it, the bending becomes easier and easier, till it breaks. Before it breaks, you can straighten the paper clip, but the weak spot in the metal remains.

 

Q-How long can you leave a FP inked?

You can leave a FP stored with ink for months. BUT, the pen likely will not write, and the dried ink could be a real PiA to clean out. Dried ink could take days to weeks to clean out of the pen, depending on the ink and pen.

If you not going to use the pen, clean it out then put it away.

Edited July 23, 2017 by ac12

[Sandy1]

Hi,

 

You have been gifted with much wisdom from other Members, so I have little to add.

 

Work on your grip. I usually grasp my pens with my thumb and index finger opposed - no pinching! Hence there is little 'downward' pressure : we whoosh across the page leaving an inky trail in the wake. I suggest running your pen without flex before trying to flex it.

 

A toothy paper + a dry ink will let you know just where the sweet spot of the nib can be found.

 

Only when one has the feel of the nib, switching to an index finger-over grip which exerts downward pressure on the nib should be given a fair go.

 

Make friends with your pens. It seems I don't get the max flex from my flexi nibs, but that's OK - if I want more flex, I'd switch to a dip pen.; and I've snapped a few of those. Ah me. blondes need eye protection when playing with Blue Pumpkins...

 

Bye,

S1

Edited July 22, 2017 by Sandy1

[Fuzzy_Bear]

I use Noodlers in my sac pens. You will find many varied opinions on the super sat inks. There have been no known scientific studies that show they damage sacs.

[Bo Bo Olson]

I use Noodlers in my sac pens. You will find many varied opinions on the super sat inks. There have been no known scientific studies that show they damage sacs.

Ron Zorn, and a number of other repair men....is as scientific as you can get.

 

Noodlers according to some Noodler fans has reformulated many of it's inks....because repair men like Rick Papas refused to warrentee repairs if Noodler's inks were used.

 

Rick's refusal is a bit old....could be that Noodlers has reformulated it's inks...it is a rumor but never proven...(outside of a Bay State ink or two)........as it's fans insist, but offer no scientific proof.

 

There are a couple other well known repair men, who don't like Noodlers at all for warentee of their own work. I don't have them in mind, but most of my pens work...........and in Europe I don't have to worry about Expensive Imported Noodler's ink.....though I do have two bottles. I exercise good care with them.

 

And if I remember correctly it was 'any' supersaturated ink that causes sac problems....not 'just' Noodlers, but Noodlers does make mostly supersaturated inks.

Edited July 23, 2017 by Bo Bo Olson

[Chrissy]

Ron Zorn, and a number of other repair men....is as scientific as you can get.

 

Noodlers according to some Noodler fans has reformulated many of it's inks....because repair men like Rick Papas refused to warrentee repairs if Noodler's inks were used.

 

Rick's refusal is a bit old....could be that Noodlers has reformulated it's inks...it is a rumor but never proven...(outside of a Bay State ink or two)........as it's fans insist, but offer no scientific proof.

 

There are a couple other well known repair men, who don't like Noodlers at all for warentee of their own work. I don't have them in mind, but most of my pens work...........and in Europe I don't have to worry about Expensive Imported Noodler's ink.....though I do have two bottles. I exercise good care with them.

 

And if I remember correctly it was 'any' supersaturated ink that causes sac problems....not 'just' Noodlers, but Noodlers does make mostly supersaturated inks.

 

+1 for this.

[FarmBoy]

This thread needs a set...

[ErrantSmudge]

Ron Zorn, and a number of other repair men....is as scientific as you can get.

 

Which is... not very. That's anecdotal evidence, not a controlled scientific study.

[Sandy1]

 

Which is... not very. That's anecdotal evidence, not a controlled scientific study.

 

__ __

 

 

My dear ErrantSmudge,

 

Too true, but when the compass needle is spinning its better than sailing the inky seas without someone at the helm and no one in the crows nest - even if they are navigating without charts or metrics, but by memory, experience and dead reckoning.

 

The esteemed Mr Zorn and Mrs Zorn and other pen techs are most welcome in my wheelhouse, where there be chocolate, blueberries and two Thermos jugs of coffee.

(I'll scramble overboard, to join other Members standing on the keel as live ballast and keep the sails out of the water.)

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2012/02/03/article-2095929-118BEE1D000005DC-562_636x426.jpg

 

 

We have lots of uncertainties: width of a Pelikan EF nib, Moleskine paper, colour of R&K Scabiosa, etc. We learn as we go AND by sharing.

 

(I stopped myself from adding a dancing bunny here.)

Bye,

S1

Edited July 25, 2017 by Sandy1

[Bo Bo Olson]

True believers are true believers no matter which mountain they climbed for The Day.

 

 

Fuzzy Bear...how many Esties have you inked right now with Noodlers? Please do do a survey to how long you take between re-sackings.

Once the rubber sacs were good for 30-40 years..............now only 10.

I wait your answer in 2027.

 

I really don't think I'll be around in 2057....in case you got a good old time sac.

 

 

Sorry, I'd not added Farmboy who was trained by Richard to the list of respected repairmen who might know.

Edited July 25, 2017 by Bo Bo Olson

[ReadyFireAim]

There has to be a difference between silicone & rubber.

[DingDongDingDong]

HI,

 

Sorry for the long wait..... And thank you to all of the wisdom.

Just got it today, here it is A $5 1926 Wahl Eversharp Coral Red with Signature Nib (probably no 4, medium).

To be clear, only the nib is signature, the pen isn't. And not a gold seal either, no double check mark.

I got it from Greg Minuskin for $165.

 

 

Sorry for bad camera

http://i.imgur.com/9jOHplb.jpg

http://imgur.com/9jOHplb

 

http://i.imgur.com/YDNjbze.jpg

http://imgur.com/YDNjbze

 

http://i.imgur.com/0vYO5Aj.jpg

http://imgur.com/0vYO5Aj

 

 

Appeal 4/5

 

A red celluloid fountain pen, it's very attractive even compared to current modern pen design.

 

Reason for -1 ?

Several wear and tear. also black irremovable dirt get stuck at the cap treading. Quite common for a 91 year old pen

 

 

Nib 5/5

 

Excellent quality, minimal scratches seen under the 20x loupe. The tipping is still there too.

Smooth writing experience, as smooth as my Waterman 515. Which is better than the hard nail 21K sailor

 

NOT A WET NOODLE !!!! but probably a Super-flex or flex as it flexes under light pressure.

This is because the line variations is just F-B or BB, I don't dare risk springing my pen.

Maybe, I never tried one, this is my first flex pen.

 

 

Quality 4/5

The pen isn't straight, a minus there.

My camera is bad, but when capped it looks bend.

But for a 91 year old pen. Surviving it is a sign of good durability and quality.

 

 

Ease of Use 4/5

A typical lever filler.

Lever is quite hard to open, need a lot of pressure.

It holds ink well, nib is still clean after taking out from my pocket. I traveled for the whole day.

Unlike my Waterman 515, it floods

 

Overall 4.25/5

It writes well. It is quite reliable. And a appealing vintage pen.

Definetly a keeper. I doubt i will sell it.

I tend to sell pens that I don't like. Hopefully it didn't break, as i am quite clumpsy.

 

 

I still don't know how to hold a wet noodle, it's harder than what it looks like in online guides.

Is it different than holding a regular fountain pen ? It feels awkward,

Also, I am more of a ROM (Read Only Member), sorry if i don't reply. But I haunt FPN

 

Thank you again !

Edited July 29, 2017 by DingDongDingDong