Jump to content

The Fountain Pen Network uses (functional) cookies. Read the Privacy Policy for more info.  To remove this message, please click here to accept the use of cookies






Photo

Pelikan 100N Piston Repair


  • Please log in to reply
11 replies to this topic

#1 PenThing

PenThing

    Rare

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 167 posts
  • Location:Bacau, Romania
  • Flag:

Posted 17 July 2017 - 20:04

Need is an excellent professor.

 

reparatie_piston_stilou_pelikan_100N_sti

reparatie_piston_stilou_pelikan_100N_sti

reparatie_piston_stilou_pelikan_100N_sti

reparatie_piston_stilou_pelikan_100N_sti

reparatie_piston_stilou_pelikan_100N_sti


Sometimes we forget that the vintage of now is the new of the yore days...

 

2003.jpg

minoxit1.png

 


Sponsored Content

#2 Bo Bo Olson

Bo Bo Olson

    Ancient Artifact

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,685 posts
  • Location:Germany

Posted 18 July 2017 - 12:17

Too bad, cork is so, so very much smoother, when boiled in paraffin and beeswax and then smeared with silicon grease.

O rings are the cheap way out.....how long do you expect them to last?...before yanking the pen apart again? How many times do you expect the pen to withstand being yanked apart before being ruined?

 

....with fresh boiled/waxed cork, you should have been good for another seventy years. More if you used the pen every day. :)

 

Richard Binder sells plastic gasket 2.0 and a proper sized cutter.....which would be better I imagine than more delicate O rings.  Plastic Gasket 1.0 was from @ 1940 when importing of Portuguese cork was no longer allowed because of giving out German export money in the war. I think 2.0 came in @ 1955.


www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany      Info on Bock nibs

 

Due to Mauricio's improved definition of Super-flex, I try not use the term Easy Full Flex, but fail...sigh.

 

Semi-flex is an “almost” flex; not a ‘flex’ nib. It is great for regular writing with a touch of flair. It can give you some fancy; but it is not made for real fancy writing. For bit more of that get a maxi-semi-flex. Both spread tines 3X.  Those are not "Flex" nibs. 

 

Wider than Normal does not exist. Wider than Japanese does. Every company has it's very own standard + slop/tolerance. Developed from the users of it's pens and inks only; not the users or inks of other companies pens. The size you grind a nib to, is your standard only. Paper and ink matter to nib width. Thank god for 1/2 sizes or it would be boring.


#3 Xof72000

Xof72000

    Collectors Item

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 960 posts
  • Location:Le Mans - FRANCE
  • Flag:

Posted 18 July 2017 - 20:20

It looks like were is something broken / missing on your piston end.

 

It should be like the 3rd from the left (1946 resin).

 

pelipistonmechs.jpg

 

Can you unscrew the end of the rod ?


Edited by Xof72000, 18 July 2017 - 20:25.


#4 grainweevil

grainweevil

    Collectors Item

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 951 posts
  • Location:Cornwall, UK
  • Flag:

Posted 19 July 2017 - 10:10

Having gone down both the cork and o-ring path in different pens, I'm not getting into that, but I am curious as to what's going to keep the o-rings from being pulled off the piston when it's drawn up. As Xof72000 says, something would appear to be missing (although I'd have guessed it was the 2nd from the left, but I know next to zero about 100Ns)



#5 mana

mana

    Vintage

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 621 posts
  • Location:Helsinki, Finland
  • Flag:

Posted 19 July 2017 - 11:28

It most definitely looks unusual and like it is missing the stopper plug (depicted in the picture above with the second unit from the left). Also weird that there is cork in the center of the piston shaft (where the spindle is supposed to be), what's up with that? :D

 

I would not recommend using modern elastomer O-rings as a substitute to cork in pens made for cork piston seals. There have been problems with the O-rings sticking to the barrel walls and in some cases (if there is a large enough a difference in the outer diameter between the installed O-rings and the original cork seals) cracks have appeared due to added stress to the barrel. This is especially true for pens with celluloid barrels, they are very much more prone to cracking under stress compared to the later Pelikan barrels which were made of acrylics and were intended to be used with proper size elastomer/plastic seals.

 

I would most definitely get the kit to do proper sized cork seals (would have already if my collection focused on earlier pens instead of post-WWII ones). It is not that difficult with the right tools and like Bo Bo said, it will provide you with decades of trouble free service without risking your pens health or integrity.


...now is the only thing that is real...

"Indifference towards people and the reality in which they live is actually the one and only cardinal sin in design."
Dieter Rams

#6 Bo Bo Olson

Bo Bo Olson

    Ancient Artifact

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,685 posts
  • Location:Germany

Posted 19 July 2017 - 17:16

Mana....thanks for the other info of why O rings are not the way to go.


www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany      Info on Bock nibs

 

Due to Mauricio's improved definition of Super-flex, I try not use the term Easy Full Flex, but fail...sigh.

 

Semi-flex is an “almost” flex; not a ‘flex’ nib. It is great for regular writing with a touch of flair. It can give you some fancy; but it is not made for real fancy writing. For bit more of that get a maxi-semi-flex. Both spread tines 3X.  Those are not "Flex" nibs. 

 

Wider than Normal does not exist. Wider than Japanese does. Every company has it's very own standard + slop/tolerance. Developed from the users of it's pens and inks only; not the users or inks of other companies pens. The size you grind a nib to, is your standard only. Paper and ink matter to nib width. Thank god for 1/2 sizes or it would be boring.


#7 PenThing

PenThing

    Rare

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 167 posts
  • Location:Bacau, Romania
  • Flag:

Posted 20 July 2017 - 17:36

Guys, the pen is working again, and this is what I intended in the first place. Cork or not, the pen draws ink and I can write with it.

 

Of course, cork is so much better than what I have used;if and when I'll get the proper tools and materials to fashion a cork in a suitable manner for a pen, I will without no doubt do that. Until such times, I use what I have.

 

Just so to make things clear, the stopper at the end of the shaft is 1.3mm larger in diameter than the diameter of the oring. I know that it's pretty hard to see the difference, but it's there, trust me. I have made sure that the oring stack cannot and will not fall from the shaft and get stuck into the barrel.

 

The brown-ish thingy showing up inside the stopper is actually the remains of the original top stopper, the one which screws on the top. That is all it was left from it, a disc of 1/2mm thickness, and I have used to plug the hole in the plastic stopper.

 

It works, and this is good. May crack the pen? Probably. Will I change it with a proper one? Most certainly. Considering that the pen was condemned by its owner, and salvaged albeit temporarily, I guess it's not bad.

 

Anyways, thank you all for the valuable input, really much appreciated!

 

Regards,

JT


Sometimes we forget that the vintage of now is the new of the yore days...

 

2003.jpg

minoxit1.png

 


#8 Bo Bo Olson

Bo Bo Olson

    Ancient Artifact

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,685 posts
  • Location:Germany

Posted 20 July 2017 - 19:39

Paraffin is what the English call a thicker mineral oil....and the cork after sizing should be boiled in that and 50% bees wax.  I'm sure regular mineral oil would do if Paraffin is too hard to obtain.

 

Sand paper and patience is a wonder, I have heard works for sizing corks......I have pens to re-cork....come the day when my desk is clean. I have everything but a bottle of will power. ;) I'll use my dremil.

 

There are cork cutters, but one needs to know which size a pen takes so buying a set of cork cutters is not what I'm going to do.


www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany      Info on Bock nibs

 

Due to Mauricio's improved definition of Super-flex, I try not use the term Easy Full Flex, but fail...sigh.

 

Semi-flex is an “almost” flex; not a ‘flex’ nib. It is great for regular writing with a touch of flair. It can give you some fancy; but it is not made for real fancy writing. For bit more of that get a maxi-semi-flex. Both spread tines 3X.  Those are not "Flex" nibs. 

 

Wider than Normal does not exist. Wider than Japanese does. Every company has it's very own standard + slop/tolerance. Developed from the users of it's pens and inks only; not the users or inks of other companies pens. The size you grind a nib to, is your standard only. Paper and ink matter to nib width. Thank god for 1/2 sizes or it would be boring.


#9 Chrissy

Chrissy

    Ancient Artifact

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,218 posts
  • Location:England
  • Flag:

Posted 20 July 2017 - 20:03

I must admit I wondered what there was to stop the O-rings from coming off the end of the piston rod, but OP says there is a stopper and he must know.  :)  I hope it continues to work OK.  :)


flying-letter-exc.png

#10 grainweevil

grainweevil

    Collectors Item

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 951 posts
  • Location:Cornwall, UK
  • Flag:

Posted 22 July 2017 - 09:38

Just so to make things clear, the stopper at the end of the shaft is 1.3mm larger in diameter than the diameter of the oring. I know that it's pretty hard to see the difference, but it's there, trust me. I have made sure that the oring stack cannot and will not fall from the shaft and get stuck into the barrel.

 

Well I thought there must be something, because having had first hand experience of trying without, it's safe to say it doesn't work!  :lol:

 

I heartily recommend having a shot at cork seals - making one is just about the most fun I've had with a fountain pen repair.



#11 Chrissy

Chrissy

    Ancient Artifact

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,218 posts
  • Location:England
  • Flag:

Posted 22 July 2017 - 09:49

 

Well I thought there must be something, because having had first hand experience of trying without, it's safe to say it doesn't work!  :lol:

 

I heartily recommend having a shot at cork seals - making one is just about the most fun I've had with a fountain pen repair.

 

I have never tried it. On the other hand I don't have any Pelikan pens with a cork seal.....at the moment. I suppose that could change at any time.  :D


flying-letter-exc.png

#12 Bo Bo Olson

Bo Bo Olson

    Ancient Artifact

  • Member - Gold

  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 17,685 posts
  • Location:Germany

Posted 23 July 2017 - 10:14

Cork can be used instead of plastic gasket from my understanding with most of the '50 era pens.


www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany      Info on Bock nibs

 

Due to Mauricio's improved definition of Super-flex, I try not use the term Easy Full Flex, but fail...sigh.

 

Semi-flex is an “almost” flex; not a ‘flex’ nib. It is great for regular writing with a touch of flair. It can give you some fancy; but it is not made for real fancy writing. For bit more of that get a maxi-semi-flex. Both spread tines 3X.  Those are not "Flex" nibs. 

 

Wider than Normal does not exist. Wider than Japanese does. Every company has it's very own standard + slop/tolerance. Developed from the users of it's pens and inks only; not the users or inks of other companies pens. The size you grind a nib to, is your standard only. Paper and ink matter to nib width. Thank god for 1/2 sizes or it would be boring.







Sponsored Content




|