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Estie Push Or Pull?


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#1 CrossFoot

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 00:24

Of course that piqued your interest.  :lticaptd:

 

Hello Estie folk. Forgive me, but I truly do need your advice.  I am quite new to fountain pens in general. Vintage excites me more, yet, I know even less about them. I attempt to research as I go though and realize that many esteem highly the Esterbrook  "J" series. I found a neglected Estie at a semi-local antique dealer, but I am not really sure what model it is or if it's even worth pursuing. It certainly isn't one of the flashy and beautiful celluloid "J's".

No pictures, sorry, as I wasn't deliberately on a hunt for pens in the wild. Nor did I have magnification with me for serious inspection. However, based on info gleaned from this forum, I may have found a SM Deluxe. Then again it might be a Frankenpen.  All metal trim appears to be stainless (clutch ring, clip, cap, fill lever). The barrel looks like good ole "plastic" in a  muted moss/light green hue with name & Trademark stamping.  It has a button jewel on the barrel end and if I remember correctly it was bluish, greenish or grayish colored plastic too. The fill lever wasn't spoon type and sans the "J" groove down its center. The section is a light blue or turquoise shade with some ink staining. Even though I cautioned against (without heat), the man had it in his eyes to "yank & bank" the pen apart. To my relief, he attacked and twisted  the section free without damaging it that I could tell. It was friction fit and appeared like flakes of dried shellac remained. Plus, having already worked the lever, when he turned the barrel over all remnants of the black sac tumbled out.  I could not tell if the nib face was corroded or just had old dried ink covering its front half. Otherwise, it appeared to be 100% intact and not bent. Also, I do not remember what style the feed design was except noting that nothing looked broken. Lastly, the cap was stainless steel free of any dents or scars that I could see. The clip seemed straight and tight with Esterbrook stamping. The problem area is the aqua or turquoise colored cap jewel which appears to be partially melted and slumping to one side. It might be a featureless blob or some other gunk stuck to it.  

It resides in a nearby city that I need visit for work a couple times a month.  It is the only pen in the place and priced  at $20.00 US. I believe the owner is clueless and surmise that that 20 year old price tag is going to fall off any second. My gut says go examine more closely next time and make an offer.

 

So, what say ye? Would you push me toward it or pull me away?

 

Would it make any difference if that nib would clean up and was stamped ... 8668?  :yikes:

 

Thanks Estie gang.



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#2 Hobiwan

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 02:01

First, IF the nib IS 8668 and in good condition (not bent up, twisted, broken)  ...

Push, offer $10, pointing out the messed-up jewel, reluctantly settle; the nib is worth it.  You can sell it for as much or more.

 

Otherwise, dicker if you want it as a project.  The fact that the sac fell out in solid pieces, is a good sign...

 

HTH


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#3 FarmBoy

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 02:34

Ask yourself what you would pay for a Noodlers or TWSBI or Hero and compare that cost to the Esterbrook. Then make your purchasing decision.
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#4 pajaro

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 02:40

Go with your gut, as you said.


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#5 gweimer1

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 11:50

Sounds like a Deluxe SM from your description.  He's not asking a high price, but I'd be inclined to offer $15, so he doesn't get insulted.  If that really is an 8668 nib, you'll be getting a bargain, as already stated.  Your bargaining point is the state of the pen, since it needs to be repaired in order to write.



#6 CrossFoot

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 14:25

Thanks for your collective input.

Sounds like we are on the same page. The nib is definitely stamped 8668. Knowing now that it is a silver alloy and if indeed in excellent shape, the asking price would still be tenable. Once removed from the feed, is Wright's Silver Creme or Never-dull safe for the nib and assuming fully flushed of any residue afterward?



#7 gweimer1

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 15:16

Given that it's palladium, you should be able to use mild soap and water, then buff with a soft cloth.  It's the same process recommended for palladium jewelry.  I use a Sunshine cloth for nibs, and it's basically the same cloth used for polishing jewelry.



#8 ac12

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 19:03

Be CAREFUL when removing the nib assembly.

It UNSCREWS.

If it does not move, do not FORCE it, you could twist the nib/feed.  There is old dried ink cementing the nib assembly to the section.

You need to SOAK the section+nib assembly and let the water gradually (over MANY days) dissolve out the old ink, so that you can unscrew the nib assembly.  Patience is called for here, it got stuck from many years of use/neglect, so cleaning the ink out will not be quick.  I use an UltraSonic Cleaner (USC) to do it faster, but the USC has to be used carefully or you could damage the nib.

 

WASH the nib first before touching it with an kind of abrasive, like a cleaner cloth.  Much gunk on the nib could simply be old dried ink that will easily wash off.  Do NOT use a silver polish, as the polish will get down into the nib and then be difficult to wash out, and might clog the nib. 


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#9 CrossFoot

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 19:06

@ gweimer1 good to know & thanks. I haven't bought the Sunshine cloth yet.



#10 CrossFoot

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 19:09

@ ac12, got it and WILCO. Thank you.



#11 gweimer1

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 19:40

@ gweimer1 good to know & thanks. I haven't bought the Sunshine cloth yet.

 

You're welcome.  You can also get these from Ron Zorn at Main Street Pens.



#12 CrossFoot

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Posted 13 June 2017 - 20:07

 

You're welcome.  You can also get these from Ron Zorn at Main Street Pens.

Yep, I'll check it out as he has two of my Parker's in for freshening.   :)  Thanks again gweimer1.



#13 CrossFoot

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 01:36

Okay, my apology to all. I was a bit overzealous without the aid of a magnifying glass. Per your advice gweimer1, I asked the clerk for some water and i dampened a soft paper towel and wiped the face of the nib lightly and all the dried ink came right off. My positively sure 8668 nib turned into a 9668 one. Perfect shape mind you but still a leading digit off.

 

The guy did come down 10 bucks though, so I bought it and it is my first project pen.  



#14 gweimer1

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 02:08

An Esterbrook with a nice 9668 nib for only $10 is still a really nice deal.  Well done!



#15 Pentode

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 02:21

Yup, a 9668 is a great nib (for me, anyway!).  You did fine.

 

Now just do everything ac12 said.  Put the whole section - nib, feed and all - in a cup of water to soak for a few days.  Add a drop or two of dish soap if you like, but it's probably not necessary.  You may not need to remove the nib and feed at all.  If you can get it all clean without removing it, do so.  Don't fix what isn't broken!

 

Go ahead and read up on replacing a pen sac and you'll be good to go.

 

Enjoy your new Estie!  Welcome aboard!



#16 CrossFoot

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 15:04

Thanks for the vote of confidence gweimer1 & Pentode.

 

I soaked section and nib unit last night and flushed quite a bit with bulb and ever so lightly put a toothbrush to the feed. Let soak over night. I just now unscrewed the nib and it came out easily; almost like a brand new pen. The whole feed unit (rounded style w/pyramid flats up front) and nib looks perfect to me.

 

Photo not very good but shows basic color relationship between the barrel and jewel caps. To my eye, the barrel is a softer moss green or olive than the picture shows.Caps look blueish-grey to me, is this normal. Plus, you see the only real wart on pen is the broken finial jewel. I see that Brian has some black jewel caps , but where could I get the grey, assuming that the color is correct? Oh, is there any meaning to a #18 hand engraved on aluminium disk? inside of cap at top; is this part of spring loaded inner-cap?

 

Thanks for staying with this saga friends.

 

Esterbrook_DeluxeSM_0617.jpg


Edited by CrossFoot, 23 June 2017 - 15:10.


#17 gweimer1

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 15:53

Well, it's definitely a Deluxe SM.  Some of the ones I've had are the same in terms of color and cap jewels.  They don't really always match well.  I'm also not sure that the black J jewels work on the SM.  I suppose I should try it sometime.



#18 Pentode

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 13:23

Somewhere on this forum I read a thread where someone described the process of casting their own replacement buttons for an Estie.  It's worth a search.  He had started with materials easily obtainable from a hobby shop and had refined the process to the point where he was making really good ones.

 

Who knows...  he might even make you one if you can track him down.



#19 gweimer1

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 21:00

I looked at my pens today, and I believe the jewels for the SM are the same size as the jewels on the LJ/SJ pens.  



#20 CrossFoot

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 00:02

Hey guys that's good to know info. My mind is over saturated with pen repair info right now to recall who was making jewels. However, I do have #16 sacs, talc etc. coming from Anderson's. Order was shipped today so should have pen up and inked Monday.  :D








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