Small Batch European Makers And Their Pens

[LeonardS]

This is a great post, I know this thread is a couple of years old but just wanted to share a few pens that I have made. It was this post where I first saw the gimena pens and which inspired me to create my own designs. I aim to create completely hand made pens( at the moment I am using Bock nibs but plan on making my own nibs in the future.) I work with metal( mostly brass and aluminum) and wood (the exotics like cocbolo, blackwood, padauk, purple heart etc). This is a restraint I have set myself in an attempted to minimize the plastic in my pens. I like to use non precious metals. This allows me to offer my pens at an reasonable price and showcases the craft and skill. I feel it is more understated and well finished brass and aluminum is beautiful. I would like to know what ye think.. I have attached a couple of my recent pens..

P.S I am based in the west of Ireland.

[Scribs]

I like the look of these enough to wonder how smooth they feel in the hand. Nice work Leonard

Edited April 26, 2019 by Scribs

[DrDebG]

Faggionato Burl Wood

 

Fred Faggionato is an artisanal pen maker based in Baume, France. His website is fairly easy to navigate and shows much of his recent work. Many pens are very ornate with lacquer/urushi work and inlay like raden on rankaku. The urushi pens are not cheap, but you will get a fairly unique item. Less expensive are the cellulose acetate and acrylic offerings. You can even order a few accessories.

 

My pen was picked up from another member on FPN who had it custom made. It is a large pen, though not overly thick, made of untreated briarwood. The pen is smooth to the touch, but you can see and feel the imperfections in the wood. Some makers will polish and lacquer these pens so they are like wooden jewels, but this pen took a more natural (maybe even laid back) approach. The lines are pure and simple with no extra anything. The only outside adornment is the double F logo hand carved into the cap top.

 

 

 

The section of the pen is a mottled hard rubber, ensuring ink does not stain the wooden body. The pen is a C/C filler so no real further comment there. The one and only complaint I really have about the pen design is that the cap threads are cut into the section. This makes it possible to unscrew the barrel of the pen leaving the section firmly screwed into the cap. It does not happen very often, but it does happen and it is annoying.

 

 

The pen takes Bock nibs, but the one currently installed is a flex added special from Pablo Carrasco. See my writing sample compared to a vintage MB 138 here. The nib is a 14K F width but takes a light hand due to the flex capabilities. But, it is fine for normal writing, maybe a bit scratchy compared to the wide stubs and CI pens I usually use.

 

I have no idea what this pen cost in 2013 when it was made. I am going to assume much less than the urushi pens with inlay, but a fair bit more than the current celluloid and acrylic offerings. It is a unique piece and currently have a very fun to play with nib. I’d buy it again in a heartbeat.

 

Finally, comparison photos vs a Pelikan M800 and an MB 149. Pens are aligned at the bottom, even it they look off.

 

 

 

 

As many of you may have already heard, Frederic Faggionoto passed away last January. Others may know more, but it appears as though the family has sold the remaining pens and have closed his business.

[LeonardS]

I like the look of these enough to wonder how smooth they feel in the hand. Nice work Leonard

The wood is incredibly smooth, using exotic hardwoods you can get a near mirror finish. I also don't use any lacquers, varnishes or other finishes. Leaving the wood exposed lets the writer enjoy the warmth and natural feel of the wood. I give it a light waxing and that is it.

 

If you'd like to see more of my work www.leonardslattery.ie

[da vinci]

The wood is incredibly smooth, using exotic hardwoods you can get a near mirror finish. I also don't use any lacquers, varnishes or other finishes. Leaving the wood exposed lets the writer enjoy the warmth and natural feel of the wood. I give it a light waxing and that is it.

 

If you'd like to see more of my work www.leonardslattery.ie

Nice designs LeonardS, thanks for sharing.

 

What is the risk of staining from filling/using the pen with only fingers etc?

[Aysedasi]

I can't read this thread any more. I can't see it. I need some wipes to get rid of the drool on my screen.........

[LeonardS]

Nice designs LeonardS, thanks for sharing.

 

What is the risk of staining from filling/using the pen with only fingers etc?

Thanks, I've been working hard on the design. Some are still evolving.

 

Filling by dipping the nib into the ink will stain the wood on the section. That is inevitable,wood stains, but not as badly as you would think if it's wiped off pretty rapidly. The harder, oilier woods are pretty resistant.

I recommend to fill the convertor directly from the ink bottle to minimise the risk of staining.

 

I can't say I've had any problem with inky fingers staining the wood. You would have to dip the wood directly into the ink to get a stain

 

I'll do some tests and see how it stains. I use these everyday at work and find them pretty reslient.